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GLANCES AT EUROPE: 



txits of tttttta 



FROM 



GREAT BRITAIN, FRANCE, ITALY, SWITZERLAND, fa. 



THE SUMMER OF 1851 



INCLUDING NOTICES OF THE 



GREAT EXHIBITION, OR WORLD'S FAIR. 



BY HORACE G II E E L E Y 



THIRD KIHTION. 



NEW YORK: 
DEWITT & DAVENPORT, PUBLISHERS, 

1852. 






Entxrkd, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1861, by 
DEWITT & DAVENPORT, 
tn» Clerk'* Office of the District Court for the Southern District of New YoA 



^ n % \ * 



Jt. Craigh4ad, Printer and Sttrtotyptr, 
lit FultmStr**, 



NO APOLOGY. 



If there be any reader impelled to dip into notes of foreign travel mainly 
by a solicitude to perfect his knowledge of the manners and habits of good 
society, to which end he is anxious to learn how my Lord Shuffieton waltzes, 
what wine Baron Hob-and-nob patronizes, which tints predominate in Lady 
Highflyer's dres3, and what is the probable color of the Duchess of Double- 
hose's garters, he will only waste his time by looking through this volume. 
Even if the species of literature he admires had not already been overdone, 
I have neither taste nor capacity for increasing it. It was my fortune some- 
times while in Europe to " sit at good men's feasts," but I brought nothing 
away from them for the public, not even the names of my entertainers and their 
notable guests. If I had felt at liberty to sketch what struck me as the 
personal characteristics of some gentlemen of note or rank whom I met, 
especially in England, I do not doubt that the popular interest in these letters 
would have been materially heightened. I did not, however, deem myself 
authorized to do this. In a few instances, where individuals challenged obser- 
vation and criticism by consenting to address public gatherings, I have spoken 
of the matter and manner of their speeches and indicated the impressions they 
made on me. Beyond this I did not feel authorized to go, even in the case 
of public men speaking to the public through reports for the daily press ; while 
those whom I only met privately or in the discharge of kindred duties, as 
Jurors at the Exhibition, I have not felt at liberty to bring before the public at 
all. Having thus explained what will seem to many a lack of piquancy, in 
the following pages, implying a privation of social opportunities, I drop the 
subject. 

No one can realize more fully than the writer the utter absence of literary 
merit in these Letters. He does not deprecate nor seek to disarm criticism ; 



IV PREFACE. 

he only asks that his sketches be taken for what they profess and strive to be, 
and for nothing else. That they are superficial, their title proclaims ; that 
they were hurriedly written, with no thought of style nor of enduring interest, 
all whom they are likely to interest or to reach must already know. A jour- 
nalist traveling in foreign lands, especially those which have been once the 
homes of his habitual readers or at least of their ancestors, cannot well refrain 
from writing of what he sees and hears ; his observations have a value in 
the eyes of those readers which will be utterly unrecognized by the colder 
public outside of the sympathizing circle. For the habitual readers of The 
Tribune especially were these Letters written, and their original purpose has 
already been accomplished. Here they would have rested, but for the unsoli- 
cited offer of the publishers to reproduce them in a book at their own cost and 
risk, and on terms ensuring a fair share of any proceeds of their sale to the 
writer. Such offers from publishers to authors who have no established 
reputation as book-makers are rarely made and even more rarely refused. 
Therefore, Sir Critic ! whose dog-eared manuscript has circulated from one 
publisher's drawer to another until its initial pages are scarcely readable, while 
the ample residue retain all their pristine freshness of hue, you are welcome to 
your revenge! Your novel may be tedious beyond endurance; your epic a 
preposterous waste of once valuable foolscap ; but your slashing review is sure 
to be widely read and enjoyed. 

My aim in writing these Letters was to give a clear and vivid daguerreotype 
of the districts I traversed and the incidents which came under my observation. 
To this end I endeavored to see, so far as practicable, through my own eyes 
rather than those of others. To this end, I generally shunned guide books, 
even those of the "indispensable" Murray, and relied mainly for ioutes and 
distances on the shilling hand-book of Bradshaw. That I have been misled 
into many inaccuracies and some gross blunders as to noted edifices, works of 
art, &c, is quite probable; but that I have truthfully though hastily indicated 
the topography, rural aspects, agricultural adaptations and more obvious social 
characteristics of the countries I traversed, I am nevertheless confident. I 
made a point of penning my impressions of each day's journey within the 
succeeding twenty-four hours if practicable, for I found that even a day's post- 
ponement impaired the distinctness of my recollections of the ever-varying 
panorama of hill and dale, moor and mountain, with long, level or undulating 
stretches of intermingled woods, grain, grass, &c, &c. I trust the picture I 
have attempted to give of out-door life in Western Europe, the workers in its 
fields and the clusters in its streets, will b& recognized by competent judges as 
substantially correct. 



PREFACE. V 

The opinions expressed with respect to national characteristics or aptitudes 
will of course appear crude and rash to those who regard them as based 
exclusively on the few days' personal observation in which they may seem to 
have originated. To those who regard them as grounded in some knowledge 
of history and of the present political and social condition of those nations, 
corrected and modified indeed by the personal observation aforesaid, their 
crudity and audacity will be somewhat less astounding. No one will doubt 
that other travelers in Europe have been far better qualified to observe and to 
judge than I was, yet I see and think, and am not forbidden to speak. We 
know already how Europe appears in the eyes of the learned and wise ; but if 
some Nepaulese Embassador or vagrant Camanche were to publish his " first 
impressions " of Great Britain or Italy, should we utterly refuse to open it 
because Baird or Thackeray could give us more accurate information on that 
identical theme 1 Would not the Camanche's criticisms possess some value 
as his, quite apart from their intrinsic worth or worthlessness ? Might they 
not afford some insight into Indian modes of thought, if none into European 
modes of life ? 

I deeply regret that the general impression made on me by the Italians was 
such that my estimate of their character and capabilities gave offence to their 
brethren now settled in this country. Their feeling is a natural, creditable 
one ; I will not reply to their strictures, yet I must let what I wrote in Italy 
of the Italians stand unmodified. I shall be most happy indeed to confess my 
mistake whenever it shall have been proved such, but I cannot as yet perceivo 
it. And to those who, not unreasonably, dilate on the rashness of such 
judgment on the part of one who was only some few weeks in Italy, and did 
not even understand its people's language, I beg leave to commend a perusal 
of " Casa Guidi Windows," by Elizabeth Barrett Browning. I had not seen 
it when I wrote, and the coincidence of its estimate of the Italians with mine 
is of course utterly unpremeditated. Mrs. Browning speaks Italian and knows 
the Italians ; she lived among them throughout the late eventful years ; she 
sympathizes with their sufferings and prays for their deliverance, but without 
shutting her eyes to the faults and grave defects of character which impede 
that deliverance if they do not render it doubtful. To those who will read her 
brief but noble poem, I need say no more ; on those who refuse to read it, 
words from me would be wasted. Believing that among the most imminent 
perils of the Republican cause in Europe is the danger of a premature, 
sanguinary, fruitless insurrection in Italy, I have done what I could to provent 
any such catastrophe. When Liberty shall have been re-vindicated in France 
and shall thereupon have triumphed in Germany, the reign of despotism will 



VI PREFACE. 

speedily terminate in Italy ; until that time, I do not see how it can wisely be 
even resisted. 

'A word of explanation as to the " World's Fair " must close this too long 
introduction. The letters in this volume which refer to the great Exhibition 
of Industry were mainly written when the persistent and unsparing disparage- 
ment of the British Press had created a general impression that the American 
Exposition was a mortifying failure, and when even some of the Americans 
in Europe, taking their cue from that Press, were declaring themselves 
"ashamed of their country" because of such failure. Of course, these letters 
were written to correct the then prevalent errors. More recently, the tide has 
completely turned, until the danger now imminent is that of extravagant if 
not groundless exultation, so that this Fair would be treated somewhat 
differently if I were now to write about it. The truth lies midway between the 
extremes already indicated. Our share in the Exhibition was creditable to us 
as a nation not yet a century old, situated three to five thousand miles from 
London ; it embraced many articles of great practical value though uncouth 
in form and utterly unattractive to the mere sight-seer ; other nations will 
profit by it and we shall lose no credit ; but it fell far short of what it might 
have been, and did not fairly exhibit the progress and present condition of the 
Useful Arts in this country. We can and must do better next time, and that 
without calling on the Federal Treasury to pay a dollar of the expense. 

Friends in Europe ! I may never again meet the greater number of you on 

earth ; allow me thus informally to tender you my hearty thanks for many 

well remembered acts of unsought kindness and unexpected hospitality. 

That your future years may be many and prosperous, and your embarkation on 

the Great Voyage which succeeds the journey of life may be serene and hopeful, 

is the fervent prayer of Yours, sincerely, 

H. G. 
New-York, October 1st, 1851. 



CONTENTS. 

Page 

I. Crossing the Atlantic, 9 

II. Opening of the Fair, 19 

III. The Great Exhibition, 29 

IV. England— Hampton Court, 38 

V. The Future of Labor— Day-Break, 47 

VI. British Progress, 53 

VII. London— New- York, 62 

VIII. The Exhibition, 69 

IX. Sights in London, 77 

X. Political Economy, as Studied at the World's Exhibition, . 87 

XL Royal Sunshine, 96 

XII. The Flax-Cotton Revolution, 107 

XIII. Leaving the Exhibition, 113 

XIV. London to Paris, 120 

XV. The Future of France, 127 

XVI. Paris, Social and Moral, 134 

XVII. Paris, Political and Social, 141 

XVIII. The Palaces of France, 149 

XIX. France, Central and Eastern, 157 

XX. Lyons to Turin, 164 

XXI. Sardinia — Italy — Freedom, 174 

XXII. Pisa— The Leaning Tower (Letter Missing), . . . .184 



Vlll CONTENTS. 

Page 

XXIII. First Day in the Papal States, 186 

XXIV. The Eternal City, 191 

XXV. St. Peter's, 201 

XXVI. The Romans of To-day, 208 

XXVII. Central Italy— Florence, 214 

XXVIII. Eastern Italy— The Po, 222 

XXIX. Venice, 231 

XXX. Lombardy, 238 

XXXI. Switzerland, 248 

XXXII. Lucerne to Basle, 256 

XXXIII. Germany, 261 

XXXIV. Belgium, 268 

XXXV. Paris to London, 273 

XXXVI. Universal Peace Congress, 279 

XXXVII. America at the World's Fair, 286 

XXXVIII. England, Central and Northern, 293 

XXXIX. Scotland, 303 

XL. Ireland— Ulster, 308 

XLI. West of Ireland— Atlantic Mails, 312 

XLII. Ireland— South, 320 

XLIII. Prospects of Ireland, 328 

XLIV. The English, 340 



GLANCES AT EUROPE. 



I. 

CROSSING THE ATLANTIC. 

Liverpool (Eng.), April 28th, 1851. 
The leaden skies, the chilly rain, the general out-door 
aspect and prospect of discomfort prevailing in New York 
when our good steamship Baltic cast loose from her dock 
at noon on the 16th inst., were not particularly calculated 
to inspire and exhilarate the goodly number who were then 
bidding adieu, for months at least, to home, country, anc 
friends. The most sanguine of the inexperienced, however, 
appealed for solace to the wind, which they, so long as the 
City completely sheltered us on the east, insisted was 
blowing from " a point West of North " — whence they 
very logically deduced that the north-east storm, now some 
thirty-six to forty-eight hours old, had spent its force, and 
would soon give place to a serene and lucid atmosphere. 
I believe the Barometer at no time countenanced this 
augury, which a brief experience sufficed most signally to 
confute. Before we had passed Coney Island, it was abun- 
dantly certain that our freshening breeze hailed directly 
from Labrador and the icebergs beyond, and had no idea of 
changing its quarters. By the time we were fairly outside 
of Sandy Hook, we were struggling with as uncomfortable 

2 



10 GLANCES AT EUROPE. 

and damaging a cross-sea as had ever enlarged my slendei 
nautical experience ; and in the course of the next hour the 
high resolves, the valorous defiances, of the scores who had 
embarked in the settled determination that they would not 
be sea-sick, had been exchanged for pallid faces and heav- 
ing bosoms. Of our two hundred passengers, possibly 
one-half were able to face the dinner-table at 4 p.m.; less 
than one-fourth mustered to supper at 7 ; while a stern but 
scanty remnant — perhaps twenty in all — answered the 
summons to breakfast next morning. 

I was not in any one of these categories. So long as I 
was able, I walked the deck, and sought to occupy my eyes, 
my limbs, my brain, with something else than the sea and 
its perturbations. The attempt, however, proved a signal 
failure. By the time we were five miles off the Hook, I 
was a decided case ; another hour laid me prostrate, though 
I refused to leave the deck ; at six o'clock a friend, finding 
me recumbent and hopeless in the smokers' room, per- 
suaded and helped me to go below. There I unbooted and 
swayed into my berth, which endured me, perforce, for the 
next twenty-four hours. I then summoned strength to 
crawl on deck, because, while I remained below, my 
sufferings were barely less than while walking above, and 
my recovery hopeless. 

I shall not harrow up the souls nor the stomachs of 
landsmen, as yet reveling in blissful ignorance of its tor- 
tures, with any description of sea-sickness. They will 
know all in ample season ; or if not, so much the better. 
But naked honesty requires a correction of the prevalent 
error that this malady is necessarily transient and easily 
overcome. Thousands who imagine they have been 
sea-sick on some River or Lake steamboat, or even during 
a brief sleigh- ride, are annually putting to sea with as little 
necessity or urgency as suffices to send them on a jaunt 
to Niagara or the White Mountains. They suppose they 
may very probably be "qualmish" for a few hours, but that 



CROSSING THE ATLANTIC. 11 

(they fancy) will but highten the general enjoyment of 
the voyage. Now it is quite true that an}' green sea-goer 
may be sick for a few hours only ; he may even not be 
sick at all. But the probability is very far from this, 
especially when the voyage is undertaken in any other than 
one of the four sunniest, blandest months in the year. Of 
every hundred who cross the Atlantic for the first time, I 
am confident that two-thirds endure more than they had 
done in all the five years preceding — more than they 
would do during two months' hard labor as convicts in a 
State Prison. Of our two hundred, I think fifty did not 
see a healthy or really happy hour during the passage ; 
while as many more were sufferers for at least half the 
time. The other hundred were mainly Ocean's old 
acquaintances, and on that account treated more kindly ; 
but many of these had some trying hours. 

Utter indifference to life and all its belongings is one of 
the characteristics of a genuine case of sea-sickness No. 
1. I enjoyed some opportunities of observing this during 
oui\voyage. For instance : One evening I was standing 
by a sick gentleman who had dragged himself or been car- 
ried on deck and laid down on a water-proof mattress 
which raised him two or three inches from the floor. 
Suddenly a great wave broke square over the bow of the 
ship and rushed aft in a river through either gangway — 
the two streams reuniting beyond the purser's and doctor's 
offices, just where the sick man lay. Any live man would 
have jumped to his feet as suddenly as if a rattlesnake 
•were whizzing in his blanket; but the sufferer never 
moved, and the languid coolness of eye wherewith he 
regarded the rushing flood which made an island of him 
was most expressive. Happily, the wave had nearly spent 
its force and was now so rapidly diffused that his refuge 
was not quite overflowed. 

Of course, those who have voyaged and not suffered will 
pronounce my general picture grossly exaggerated ; wherein 



12 GLANCES AT EUROPE. 

they will be faithful to their own experience, as I am to 
mine. I write for the benefit of the uninitiated, to warn 
them, not against braving the ocean when they must o 
ought, but against resorting to it for pastime. Voyaging 
cannot be enjoyment to most of them ; it must be suffering. 
The sonorous rhymesters in praise of "A Life on the Ocean 
Wave," "The Sea! the Sea! the Open Sea!" &c. were 
probably never out of sight of land in a gale in their lives. 
If they were ever " half seas over," the liquid which buoyed 
them up was not brine, but wine, which is quite another 
affair. And, as they are continually luring people out of 
soundings who might far better have remained on terra 
firma, I lift up my voice in warning against them. "A home 
on the raging deep," is not a scene of enjoyment, even to 
the sailor, who suffers only from hardship and exposure ; no 
other laborer's wages are so dearly earned as his, and his 
season of enjoyment is not the voyage but the stay in port. 
He is compelled to work hardest just when other out-door 
laborers deem working at all out of the question. To him 
Night and Day are alike in their duties as in their exemp- 
tions ; while the more furious and blinding the tempest, the 
greater must be his exertions, perils and privations. In 
air weather his hours of rest are equal to his hours of la- 
)or; in bad weather he may have no hours of rest what- 
ever. Should he find such, he flings himself into his bunk 
or a few hours in his wet clothes, and turns out smoking 
ike a coal-pit at the next summons to duty, to be drenched 
ifresh in the cold affusions of sea and sky — and so on. An 
>]d sea-captain assured me that his crew were sometimes in 
vet clothing throughout an Atlantic voyage. 

Our weather was certainly bad, though not the worst. 
Ne started on our course, after leaving Sandy-Hook, in 
he teeth of a North-Easter, and it clung to us like a brother, 
t varied to East North-East, East South-East, South East, 
nd occasionally condescended to blow a little from nearly 
forth or nearly South, but we had not six hours of West- 



CROSSING THE ATLANTIC. 13 

erly or semi-Westerly wind throughout the passage. There 
may have been two days in all, though I think not, in which 
some of the principal sails could be made to draw ; but they 
were necessarily set so sharply at angles with the ship as 
to do little good. Usually, one or two trysails were all 
the canvass displayed, and they rather served to steady the 
ship than to aid her progress ; while for days together, strip- 
ped to her naked spars, she was compelled to push her bow- 
sprit into the wind's very eye by the force of her engines 
alone. And that wind, though no hurricane, had a will of 
its own ; while the waves, rolled perpetually against her 
bow by so long a succession of easterly winds, were a deci- 
ded impediment to our progress. I doubt whether there is 
another steamship which could have made the passage 
safely and without extra effort in less time than the Baltic 
did. 

Our weather was not all bad, though we had no tho- 
roughly fair day — no day entirely free from rain — none in 
which the decks were dry throughout. In fact, the spray 
often kept them thoroughly drenched, especially aft, when 
there was no rain at all. During four or five of the twelve 
days we had some hour or more of semi-sunshine either at 
morning, midday or toward night. The only gales of much 
account were those of our first night off Long Island and 
our last before seeing land (Saturday), when on coming 
into soundings off the coast of Ireland, we had a very de- 
cided blow and (the ship having become very light by the 
consumption of most of her coal) the worst kind of a sea. 
It gave me my sickest hour, though not my worst day. 

Our dreariest days were Wednesday and Thursday, 23d 
and 24th, when we were a little more than half way across. 
With the wind precisely ahead and very strong, the skies 
black and lowering, a pretty constant rain, and a driving, 
blinding spray which drenched every thing above the decks, 
themselves ankle-deep in water, I cannot well imagine how ; 
two hundred fellow-passengers, driven down and kept down 



14 GLANCES AT EUROPE. 

n the cabins and state-rooms of a steamship, could well be 
;reated to a more dismal prospect. I thought the philo- 
sophy even of the card-players (who were by far the most 
ndustrious and least miserable class among us) was tried 
)y it. 

Spacious as the Baltic is, two hundred passengers with fifty 
)r sixty attendants, confined for days together to her cabins,, 
ill her quite full enough. For those who are thoroughly well, 
;here are society, reading, eating, play and other pastimes ; 
)ut for the sick and helpless, who can neither read nor play, 
vhom even conversation fatigues, and to whom the under- 
leck smell, especially in connection with food, is intensely 
•evoking, I can imagine no heavier hours short of absolute 
orture. Having endured these, I had nothing beyond them 
o dread, and it was rather a satisfaction, on reaching the 
Tish coast, to be greeted with a succession of hail-squalls — 
o work up the Channel against a wet North-Easter, and 
>e landed in Liverpool (after a tedious detention for lack 
)f water on the bar at the mouth of the Mersey) under sul- 
en skies and in a dripping rain. I wanted to see the thing 
nit, and would have taken amiss any deceitful smiles of 
Fortune after I had learned to dispense with her favors. \ 

There yet remains the grateful duty of speaking of the 
nitigations of our trials. And in the first place, the Baltic 
lerself is unquestionably one of the safest and most com- 
nodious sea-boats in the world. She is probably not the 
astest, especially with a strong head wind and sea, because 
)f her great bulk and the area of resistance she presents' 
)oth above and below the water-line ; but for strength 
ind excellence of construction, steadiness of movement, 
md perfection of accommodations, she can have no su- 
)erior. Her wheels never missed a revolution from the 
ime she discharged her New- York pilot till the time she 
stopped them to take on board his Liverpool counterpart, 
)ff Holyhead : and her sailing qualities, tested under the 
nost unfavorable auspices, are also admirable. She needs 



ROSSING THE ATLANTIC. 15 

but good weather to make the run in ten days from dock to 
dock ; she would have done it this time had the winds been 
the reverse of what they were or as the Asia had them be- 
fore her. The luck cannot always be against her. 

Praise of commanders and officers of steamships has be- 
come so common that it has lost all emphasis, all force. I 
presume this is for the most part deserved ; for it is not 
likely that the great responsibility of sailing these ships 
would be entrusted to any other than the very fittest hands ; 
and this is a matter wherein mistakes may by care be 
avoided. The qualities of a seaman, a commander, do not lie 
dormant rthe ocean tries and proves its men ; while in this 
serVice the whole traveling public are the observers and 
judges But such a voyage as we have just made tries the 
temper as well as the capacity it calls into exercise 
every faculty, and lays bare defects if such there be. To 
sweep gaily on before a fresh, fair breeze, is compara- 
N tively easy, but few landsmen can realize the patient as- 
siduity and nautical skill required to extract propelling pow- 
er from winds determined to be dead ahead. How nicely 
the sails must be set at the sharpest angle with the course 
of the vessel, and sometimes that course itself varied a 
point or two to make them draw at all ; how often they must 
be shifted, or reefed, or furled ; how much labor and skill 
must be put in requisition to secure a very slight addition 
to the speed of the ship — all this I am not seaman enough 
to describe, though I can admire. And during the entire 
voyage, with its many vicissitudes, I did not hear one harsh 
or profane word from an officer, one sulky or uncivil re- 
sponse from a subordinate. And the perfection of Capt. 
Comstock's commandership in my eyes was that, though 
always on the alert and giving direction to every move-; 
ment, he did not need to command half so much nor 
to make himself anything like so conspicuous as an ordi- 
nary man would. I willingly believe that some share of 
the merit of this is due to the admirable qualities of his 



16 GLANCES AT EUROPE. 

assistants, especially Lieuts. Duncan and Hunter, of the 
U. S. Navy. 

In the way of food and attendance, nothing desirable was 
wanting but Health and Appetite. Four meals per day 
were regularly provided — at 8, 12, 4 and 7 o'clock respec- 
tively — which would favorably compare with those prof- 
fered at any but the very best Hotels ; and some of the din- 
ners — that of the last Sunday especially — would have done 
credit to the Astor or Irving. Of course I state this with 
the reservation that the best water and the best milk that 
can be had at sea are to me unpalatable, and that, even when 
I can eat under a deck, it is a penance to do so. But these 
drawbacks are Ocean's fault, or mine; not the Baltic's. 
Many of the passengers ate their four meals regularly, af- 
ter the first day out, with abundant relish ; and one young 
New-Yorker added a fifth, by taking a supper at ten each 
night with a capital appetite, after doing full justice to the 
four regular meals. If he could only patent his digestion 
and warrant it, he might turn his back on merchandize 
evermore. 

The attendance on the sick was the best feature of all. 
Aside from the constant and kind assiduities of Dr. Crary, 
1 the ship's physician, the patience and watchfulness with 
which the sick were nursed and tended, their wants sought 
out, their wishes anticipated, were remarkable. Many 
had three meals per day served to them separately in their 
■ berths or on deck, and even at unseasonable hours, and 
1 often had special delicacies provided for them, without a " v 
: demur or sulky look. As there was no extra charge for 
Uhis, it certainly surpassed any preconception on my part 
E of steamship amenity. I trust the ever-moving attendants 
-received something more than their wages for their ar- 
fduous labors : they certainly deserved it. 
t The notable incidents of our passage were very few 
=An iceberg was seen to the northward one morning about 
c sunrise, by those who were on deck at that hour ; but it 
i 



CROSSING THE ATLANTIC. 17 

kept at a respectful distance, and we thought the example 
worthy of our imitation. I understand that the rising 
sun's rays on its surface produced a fine effect. A single 
school of whales exhibited their flukes for our edification — 
so I heard. Several vessels were seen the first morning 
out, while we were in the Gulf Stream : one or two from 
day to day, and of course a number as we neared the 
entrance of the Channel on this side ; but there were days 
wherein we saw no sail but our own ; and I think we tra- 
versed nearly a thousand miles at one time on this great 
highway of nations, without seeing one. Such facts give 
some idea of the ocean's immensity, but I think few can 
realize, save by experiment, the weary length of way from 
New- York to Liverpool, nor the quantity of blue water 
which separates the two points. Friends who went to 
California by Cape-Horn and were sea-sick, I proffer you 
my heart felt sympathies ! — It was some consolation to me, 
even when most ill and impatient, to reflect that the gales, 
so adverse to us, were most propitious to the many 
emigrant-freighted packets which at this season are con- 
veying thousands to our country's shores, and whose 
clouds of canvas occasionally loomed upon us in the dis- 
tance. What were our " light afflictions " compared with 
those of the multitudes crowded into their stifling steerages, 
so devoid of conveniences and comforts ! Speed on, O 
favored coursers of the deep, bearing swiftly those suffering 
exiles to the land of Hope and Freedom ! 

We had a law trial by way of variety last Saturday — 
Capt. Comstock having been duly indicted and arraigned 
for Humbug, in permitting us to be so long beset by all 
manner of easterly winds with never a puff from the west- 
ward. Hon. Ashbel Smith, from Texas, officiated as Chief 
Justice; a Jury of six ladies and six gentlemen were 
empaneled ; James T. Brady conducted the prosecution 
with much wit and spirit; while ^Eolus, Neptune, Capt. 
Cuttle, Jack Bunsby, &c, testified for the prosecution, anr 1 



18 GLANCES AT EUROPE. 

Fairweather, Westwind, Brother Jonathan and Mr. Steady 
gave evidence for the defence. The fun was rather heavy, 
but the audience was very good natured, and whatever the 
witnesses lacked in wit, they made up in extravagance of 
costume, so that two hours were whiled away quite 
endurably. The Jury not only acquitted the Captain 
without leaving their seats, but subjected the prosecutors 
to heavy damages (in wine) as malicious defamers. The 
verdict was received with unanimous and hearty approval. 
But I must stop and begin again. Suffice it, that, 
though we ought to have landed here inside of twelve 
days from New York, the difference in time (Liverpool 
using that of Greenwich for Railroad convenience) being 
all but five hours — yet the long prevalence of Easterly 
winds had so lowered the waters of the Mersey by driving 
those of the Channel westerly into the Atlantic, that the 
pilot declined the responsibility of taking our ship over the 
Bar till high water, which was nearly seven o'clock. We 
then ran up opposite the City, but there was no dock-room 
for the Baltic, and passengers and light baggage were 
ferried ashore in a " steam-tug " which we in New York 
should deem unworthy to convey market garbage. At 
last, after infinite delay and vexation, caused in good part 
by the necessity of a custom-house scrutiny even of carpet- 
bags, because men will smuggle cigars ashore here, even 
in their pockets, we were landed about 9 o'clock, and to- 
morrow I set my watch by an English sun. There is 
promise of brighter skies. I shall hasten up to London to 
witness the opening of the World's Fair; and so, "My 
Native Land, Good Night !" 



II. 

OPENING OF THE FAIR. 

London, Thursday, May 1, 1851. 

Our Human Life is either comic or tragic, according 
to the point of view from which we regard it. The 
observer will be impelled to laugh or to weep over it, as he 
shall fix his attention on men's follies or their sufferings. 
So of the Great Exhibition, and more especially its Royal 
Inauguration, which I have just returned from witnessing. 
There can be no serious doubt that the Fair has good 
points; I think it is a good thing for London first, for 
England next, and will ultimately benefit mankind. And 
yet, it would not be difficult so to depict it (and truly), 
that its contrivers and managers would never think of 
deeming the picture complimentary. 

But let us have the better side first by all means. The 
show is certainly a great one, greater in extent, in variety, 
and in the excellence of a large share of its contents, than 
the world has hitherto seen. The Crystal Palace, which 
covers and protects all, is better than any one thing it con- 
tains, it is really a fairy wonder, and is a work of inestima- 
ble value as a suggestion for future architecture. It is not 
merely better adapted to its purpose than any other edifice 
ever yet built could be, but it combines remarkable cheap- j 
ness with vast and varied utility. Depend on it, stone, 
and timber will have to stand back for iron and glass, 
hereafter, to an extent not yet conceivable. The triumph 
of Paxton is perfect, and heralds a revolution. 



20 GLANCES AT EUROPE. 

The day has been very favorable — fair, bland and dry 
It is now 4 P. M. and there has been no rain since daylight 
but a mere sprinkle at noon unregarded by us insiders — the 
longest exemption from " falling weather " I have known 
since I left New York, and I believe the daily showers or 
squalls in this city reach still further back. True, even 
this day would be deemed a dull one in New York, but 
there was a very fair imitation of sunshine this morning, 
and we enjoy rather more than American moonlight still, 
though the sky is partially clouded. [How can they have 
had the conscience to tax such light as they get up in this 
country ?] Of course the turn out has been immense ; I 
estimate the number inside of the building at thirty 
thousand, and I presume ten times as many went out of 
their way to gaze at the Procession, though that was not 
much. Our New York Fire Department could beat it ; so 
could our Odd-Fellows. — Then the most perfect order was 
preserved throughout ; everything was done in season and 
without botching ; no accident occurred to mar the festi- 
vity, and the general feeling was one of hearty satisfaction. 
If it were a new thing to see a Queen, Court and aristo- 
cracy engaged in doing marked honor to Industry, they 
certainly performed gracefully the parts allotted them, and 
with none of the awkwardness or blundering which novel 
situations are expected to excuse. But was the play well 
cast ? 

The Sovereign in a monarchy is of course always in 
order : to be honored for doing his whole duty ; to be 
honored more signally if he does more than his duty. 
Prince Albert's sphere as the Sovereign's consort is very 
limited, and he shows rare sense and prudence in never 
evincing a desire to overstep it. I think few men live who 
could hold his neutral and hampered position and retain so 
entirely the sincere respect and esteem of the British 
Nation. His labors in promoting this Exhibition began 
early and have been arduous, persistent and effective. 
i 



OPENING OP THE FAIR. 21 

Any Inauguration of the Fair in which he did not promi- 
nently figure would have done him injustice. The Queen 
appears to be personally popular in a more direct and 
positive sense. I cannot remember that any one act of 
her public life has ever been condemned by the public 
sentiment of the Country. Almost every body here 
appears to esteem it a condescension for her to open the 
Exhibition as though it were a Parliament, and with far 
more of personal exertion and heartiness on her part. 
And while I must regard her vocation as one rather 
behind the intelligence of this age and likely to go out of 
fashion at no distant day, yet I am sure that change will 
not come through her fault. I was glad to see her in the 
pageant to-day, and hope she enjoyed it while ministering 
to the enjoyment of others. 

But let us reverse the glass for a moment. The ludicrous, 
the dissonant, the incongruous, are not excluded from the 
Exhibition : they cannot be excluded from any complete 
picture of its Opening. The Queen, we will say, was 
here by Right Divine, by right of Womanhood, by Univer- 
sal Suffrage — any how you please. The ceremonial could 
not have spared her. But in inaugurating the first grand 
cosmopolitan Olympiad of Industry, ought not Industry to 
have had some representation, some vital recognition, in her 
share of the pageant ? If the Queen had come in state to 
the Horse-Guards to review the elite of her military 
forces, no one would doubt that " the Duke " should figure 
in the foreground, with a brilliant staff of Generals and 
Colonels surrounding him. So, if she were proceeding to 
open Parliament, her fitting attendants would be Ministers 
and Councillors of State. But what have her " Gentleman 
Usher of Sword and State," "Lords in Waiting," " Master i 
of the Horse," " Earl Marshal," " Groom of the Stole," 
"Master of the Buckhounds," and such uncouth fossils, to 
do with a grand Exhibition of the fruits of Industry ? 
What, in their official capacity, have these and theirs ever , 



22 GLANCES AT EUROPE. 

v 

had to do with Industry unless to burden it, or with its 
Products but to consume or destroy them ? The " Mis- 
tress of the Robes " would be in place if she ever fashioned 
any robes, even for the Queen ; so would the " Ladies of 
the Bedchamber " if they did anything with beds except 
to sleep in them. As the fact is, their presence only served 
to strengthen the presumption that not merely their offices 
but that of Royalty itself is an anachronism, and all should 
have deceased with the era to which they properly 
belonged. It was well indeed that Paxton should have a 
proud place in the procession ; but he held it in no repre- 
sentative capacity ; he was there not in behalf of 
Architecture but of the Crystal Palace. To have rendered 
the pageant expressive, congruous, and really a tribute to 
Industry, the posts of honor next the Queen's person 
should have been confided on this occasion to the children 
of Watt, of Arkwright and their compeers (Napoleon's 
real conquerors ;) while instead of Grandees and Foreign 
Embassadors, the heirs of Fitch, of Fulton, of Jacquard, 
of Whitney, of Daguerre, &c, with the discoverers, 
inventors, architects and engineers to whom the world is 
primarily indebted for Canals, Railroads, Steamships, 
Electric Telegraphs, &c, &c, should have been specially 
invited to swell the Royal cortege. To pass over all these, 
and summon instead the descendants of some dozen lucky 
Norman robbers, none of whom ever contemplated the 
personal doing of any real work as even a remote possibility, 
and any of whom would feel insulted by a report that 
his father or grandfather invented the Steam Engine or 
Spinning Jenny, is not the fittest way to honor Industry. 
The Queen's Horticulturists, Gardeners, Carpenters, Uphol- 
sterers, Milliners, &c, would have been far more in place 
in the procession than her " gold stick, " " silver stick, " and 
kindred absurdities. 

And yet, empty and blundering as the conception of this 
pageant may seem and is, there is nevertheless marrow 



OPENING OF THE FAIR. 23 

and hope in it. "The world does move," O Galileo! 
carrying onward even those who forced you to deny the 
truth you had demonstrated ! We may well say that these 
gentlemen in ribbons and stars cannot truly honor Labor 
while they would deem its performance by their own sons 
a degradation ; but the grandfathers of these Dukes and 
Barons would have deemed themselves as much dishonored 
by uniting in this Royal ovation to gingham weavers and 
boiler-makers as these men would by being compelled to 
weave the cloth and forge the iron themselves. Patience, 
impetuous souls ! the better day dawns, though the morn- 
ing air is chilly. We shall be able to elect something else 
than Generals to the Presidency before this century is out, 
and the Right of every man to live by Labor — conse- 
quently, to a place where he may live, on the sole 
condition that he is willing to labor — stands high on the 
general orders, and must soon be up for National and 
universal discussion. The Earls and Dukes of a not 
distant day will train their sons in schools of Agriculture, 
Architecture, Chemistry, Mineralogy, &c., inspiring each 
to win fame and rank for himself by signal and brilliant 
usefulness, instead of resting upon and wearing out the 
fame won by some ancestor on the battle-field of the old 
barbarian time. Even To-Day's hollow pageant is an 
augury of this. It is Browning, I think, who says, 

" All men become good creatures, but so slow." 

Let us, taking heart from the reflection that we live in the 
age of the Locomotive and the Telegraph, cheerfully press 
onward ! 

We will consider the Fair opened. 

I shall venture no especial criticisms as yet — first because 
the Exhibition is not ready for it ; next because I am in the 
same predicament. A few general observations must close 
this letter. 

Immense as the quantity of goods offered for exhibition is 



24 GLANCES AT EUROPE. 

it is not equal to the enormous capacity of the building, to 
which Castle Garden is but a dog-kennel. [I do hope we 
may have a Crystal Palace of like proportions in New- 
York within two years ; it would be of inestimable worth 
as a study to our young architects, builders and artisans. 
If such an edifice were constructed in some fit locality to 
be leased out in portions, under proper regulations, for 
stores, I believe it would pay handsomely. Each store 
might be separated from those next it by partitions of iron 
and glass ; the fronts might be made of movable plates of 
glass or left entirely open ; the entire building being opened 
at eight in the morning, closed at eight at night, and care- 
fully watched at all times.] True, many things are yet to 
be received, and some already in the building remain in 
the boxes ; still, I think there will be some nakedness, even 
a week hence. The opportunity for seeing every thing, 
judging every thing, is all the better for this, and indeed is 
unexampled. 

The display from different countries is very unequal, 
even in proportion : Old England is of course here in her 
might ; France has a vast collection, especially of articles 
appealing to taste or fancy ; but Germany and the rest of 
the Continent have less than I expected to see ; and the 
show from the United States disappoints many by its 
alleged meagerness. I do not view it in the same light, 
nor regret, with a New- York merchant whom I met in the 
Fair to-day, that Congress did not appropriate $100,000 to 
secure a full and commanding exhibition of American 
products at this Fair. I do not see how any tangible and 
adequate benefit to the Nation would have resulted from 
such a dubious disposition of National funds. In the first 
place, our great Agricultural staples — at least, all such as 
find markets abroad — are already accessible and well known 
here. Bales of Cotton, casks of Hams or other Meats, 
barrels of Flour or Resin, hogsheads of Tobacco, &c, 
might have been heaped up here as high as St. Paul's steeple 



OPENING OF THE FAIR. 25 

— to what end ? Europeans already know that we produce 
these staples in abundance and perfection, and when they 
want them they buy of us. I doubt whether cumbering 
the Fair with them would have either promoted the 
National interest or exalted the National reputation. It 
would have served rather to deepen the impression, 
already too general both at home and abroad, that we are 
a rude, clumsy people, inhabiting a broad, fertile domain, 
affording great incitements to the most slovenly descrip- 
tion of Agriculture, and that it is our policy to stick to 
that, and let alone the nicer processes of Art, which 
require dexterity and delicacy of workmanship. We 
must outgrow this error. 

Our Manufactures are in many departments grossly de- 
ficient, in others inferior to the best rival productions of 
Europe. In Silks and Linens, we have nothing now to 
show ; I trust the case will be bravely altered within a 
few years. In Broadcloths, we are behind and going behind, 
but in Satinets, Flannels, (woolen) Shawls, De Laines, 
Ginghams, Drills and most plain Cottons, we are produ- 
cing as effectively as our rivals, and in many departments 
gaining upon them. But few of these are goods which make 
much show in a Fair ; three cases of Parisian gewgaws will 
outshine in an exhibition a million dollars' worth of admir- 
able and cheap Muslins, Drills, Flannels, &c. And be- 
side, our Manufacturers, who find themselves met at 
every turn, and often supplanted at their own doors, by 
showy fabrics from abroad, are shy of calling attention in 
Europe to the few articles which, by the help of valuable 
American inventions, they are able to make and sell at a 
profit. I know this consideration has kept some goods and 
more machinery at home which would otherwise have been 
here. The manufacturers are here or are coming, to see 
what knowledge or skill they can pick up, but they are not 
so ready to tell all they know. They think the odds in 
favor of those who work against them backed by the cheap 



26 GLANCES AT EUROPE. 

Labor and abundant Capital of Europe, are quite suffi- 
cient already. 

Still, there are some Yankee Notions that I wish had been 
sent over. I think our Cut Nails, our Pins, our Wood 
Screws, &c. should have been represented. India Rubber 
is abundant here, but I have seen no Gutta Percha, and 
our New- York Company (Hudson Manufacturing) might 
have put a new wrinkle on John Bull's forehead by send- 
ing over an assorted case of their fabrics. The Brass and kin- 
dred fabrics of Waterbury (Conn.) ought not to have come 
up missing, and a set of samples of the " Flint Enameled 
Ware" of Vermont, I should have been proud of for Ver- 
mont's sake. A light Jersey wagon, a Yankee ox-cart, and 
two or three sets of American Farming Implements, would 
have been exactly in play here. Our Sythes, Cradles, 
Hoes, Rakes, Axes, Sowing, Reaping, Threshing and 
Winnowing machines, &c, &c, are a long distance ahead 
of the British — so the best judges say ; and where their 
machines are good they cost too much ever to come into 
general use. There is a pretty good set of Yankee Ploughs 
here, and they are likely to do good. I believe Connecticut 
Clocks and Maine (North Wayne) Axes are also well re- 
presented. But either Rochester, Syracuse, or Albany could 
have beaten the whol^ show in Farming Tools generally. 

Yet there are many good things in the American de- 
partment. In Daguerreotypes, it seems to be conceded 
that we beat the world, when excellence and cheapness 
are both considered — at all events, England is no where 
in comparison — and our Daguerreotypists make a great 
show here. — New-Jersey Zinc, Lake Superior Copper, 
Adirondack Iron and Steel, are well represented either 
by ores or fabrics, and I believe California Gold is to be. — 
But I am speaking on the strength of a very hasty exami- 
nation. I shall continue in attendance from day to day 
and hope to glean from the show some ideas that may be 
found or made useful. 



OPENING OF THE FAIR. 27 

P. S. — The Official Catalogue of the Fair is just issued. 
It has been got up in great haste, and must necessarily be 
imperfect, but it extends to 320 double-column octavo 
pages on brevier type (not counting advertisements) and 
is sold for a shilling- — (24 cents). Some conception of 
the extent of the Fair may be obtained from the follow- 
ing hasty summary of a portion of the contents, showing 
the number of Exhibitors in certain departments, as 
classified in the Official Catalogue, viz : 

GREAT BRITAIN. 

Coal, Slate, Grindstone, Limestone, Granite, &c. (outside the building), 44 

Mining and Mineral Products (inside), ------ 366 

Chemical and Pharmaceutical Products, - - - - . - 103 

Substances used as Food, 133 

Vegetable and Animal Substances used in Manufactures, 94 
Machines for Direct Use, including Carriages, Railway and Marine Me- 
chanism, 339 

Manufacturing Machines and Tools, - - - - - - - 225 

Civil Engineering and Building Contrivances, - - - - -177 

Naval Architecture, Guns, Weapons, &c. 260 

Agricultural and Horticultural Machines and Implements, - 287 

Philosophical, Musical, Horological and Surgical Instruments, - - 535 

Total, so far, 2563 

The foregoing occupy but 55 of the 300 pages devoted 
expressly to the Catalogue, so that the whole number of 
Exhibitors cannot be less than Ten Thousand, and is 
probably nearer Fifteen Thousand ; and as two articles 
from each would be a low estimate, I think the number of 
distinct articles already on exhibition cannot fall below 
Thirty Thousand, counting all of any class which may be 
entered by a single exhibitor as one article. Great Bri- 
tain fills 136 pages of the Catalogue ; her Colonies and 
Foreign possessions 48 more ; Austria 16 ; Belgium 8, 
China 2, Denmark 1, Egypt 2 J, France and Algiers 35 , 
Prussia and the Zoll Verein States 19; Bavaria 2, Saxony 
5, Wirtemburg 2, Hesse, Nassau and Luxemburg 3, 
Greece 1, Hamburgh 1, Holland 2, Portugal 3j ; Madeira 



28 GLANCES AT EUROPE. 

1, Papal State J, Russia 5, Sardinia 1^-, Spain 5, Sweden 
and Norway 1, Switzerland 5, Tunis 2£, Tuscany 2, 
United States 8£. So the United States stands fifth on the 
list of contributing Countries, ranking next after Great 
Britain herself, France, Austria, and Prussian Germany, 
and far ahead of Holland and Switzerland, which have 
long been held up as triumphant examples of Industrial 
progress and thrift under Free Trade ; and these, with all 
the countries which show more than we do, are close at 
hand, while our country is on the average more than 
4,000 miles off. — I am confirmed in my view that the 
cavils at the meagerness of our contribution are not well 
grounded. 



[II. 

THE GREAT EXHIBITION. 

London, Thursday, May 6th, 1851. 

" The World's Fair," as we Americans have been 
accustomed to call it, has now been open five days, but is 
not yet in complete order, nor anything like it. The 
sound of the saw and the hammer salutes the visiter from 
every side, and I think not less than five hundred carpen- 
ters and other artisans are busy in the building to-day. 
The week will probably close before the fixtures will have 
all been put up and the articles duly arranged for exhibi- 
tion. As yet, a great many remain in their transportation 
boxes, while others are covered with canvas, though many 
more have been put in order within the last two days. 
Through the great center aisle very little remains unac- 
complished ; but on the sides, in the galleries, and in the 
department of British Machinery, there is yet work to do 
which another week will hardly see concluded. Mean- 
time, the throng of visiters is immense, though the unex- 
ampled extent of the People's Palace prevents any crush 
or inconvenience. I think there cannot have been less 
than Ten Thousand visiters in the building to-day. 

Of course, any attempt to specify, or to set forth the 
merits or defects of particular articles, must here be futile. 
Such a universe of materials, inventions and fabrics de- 
fies that mode of treatment. But I will endeavor to give 
some general idea of the Exhibition. 

If you enter the building at the East, you are in the 



30 GLANCES AT EUROPE. 

midst of the American contributions, to which a great 
space has been allotted, which they meagerly fill. Pass- 
ing westward down the aisle, our next neighbor is Russia, 
who had not an eighth of our space allotted to her, and 
has filled that little far less thoroughly and creditably 
than we have. It is said that the greater part of the 
Russian articles intended for the Fair are yet ice-bound 
in the Baltic. France, Austria, Switzerland, Prussia and 
other German States succeed her ; the French contribu- 
tions being equal (I think) in value, if not in extent and 
variety, to those of all the rest of the Continent. Bo- 
hemia has sent some admirable Glassware ; Austria a suit 
of apartments thoroughly and sumptuously furnished, 
which wins much regard and some admiration. There 
is of course a great array of tasteful design and exqui- 
site workmanship from France, though I do not just now 
call to mind any article of transcendent merit. 

The main aisle is very wide, forming a broad pro- 
menade on each side with a collection of Sculpture, 
Statuary, Casts, &c. &c. between them. Foremost among 
these is Powers's Greek Slave, never seen to better 
advantage ; and I should say there are from fifty to a 
hundred other works of Art — mainly in Marble or Bronze. 
— Some of them have great merit. Having passed down 
this avenue several hundred feet, you reach the Transept, 
where the great diamond " Koh-i-Noor " (Mountain oj 
Light) with other royal contributions, have place. Here, 
in the exact center of the Exhibition, is a beautiful 
Fountain (nearly all glass but the water,) which has 
rarely been excelled in design or effect. The fluid is 
projected to a height of some thirty feet, falling thence 
into a succession of regularly enlarging glass basins, and 
finally reaching in streams and spray the reservoir below 
A hundred feet or more on either side stand two stately, 
graceful trees, entirely included in the building, whose 
roof of glass rises clear above them, seeming a neare; 



THE GREAT EXHIBITION. 31 

sky. These trees (elms, I believe) .are fuller and fresher 
in leaf than those outside, having been shielded from the 
chilling air and warmed by the genial roof. Nature's con- 
tribution to the Great Exhibition is certainly a very 
admirable one, and fairly entitles her to a first-class 
Medal. 

The other half of the main aisle is externally a duplicate 
of that already described, but is somewhat differently 
filled. This is the British end of the Exhibition, contctining 
far more in quantity than all the rest put together. The 
finest and costliest fabrics are ranged on either side of this 
end of the grand aisle. 

The show of Colonial products is not vast but compre- 
hensive, giving a vivid idea of the wide extent and various 
climates of Britain's dependencies. Corn, Wheat, &c, 
from the Canadas ; Sugar and Coffee from the West Indies ; 
fine Wood from Australia ; Rice, Cotton, &c, from India ; 
with the diversified products of Asia, Africa and America, 
fill this department. Manufactured textile fabrics from 
Sydney, from India, and from Upper Canada, are here very 
near each other ; while Minerals, Woods. &c, from every 
land and every clime are nearly in contact. I apprehend 
John Bull, whatever else he may learn, *will not be taught 
meekness by this Exhibition. 

The Mineral department of the British display is situated 
on the south side. I think it can hardly be less than five 
hundred feet long by over one hundred wide, and it is 
doubtless the most complete ever thus set before the public. 
Here are shown every variety and condition of Coal, and 
of Iron, Copper, Lead, Tin, &c. Of Gold there is little, 
and of Silver, Zinc, Quicksilver, &c, not a great deal. 
But not only are the Ores of the metals first named varied 
and abundant, with Native Copper, Silver, &c, but the 
metals are also shown in every stage of their progress, 
from the rude elements just wrenched from the earth to 
the most refined and perfect bars or ingots. This depart- 



32 GLANCES AT EUROPE. 

ment will richly reward the study of mineralogists, pre- 
sent and future. 

Directly opposite, on the North side of the British half 
of the main avenue, is the British exhibition of Machinery, 
occupying even more space than the Minerals. I never saw 
one-fourth as much Machinery together before ; I do not 
expect ever to see so much again. Almost every thing 
that a Briton has ever invented, improved or patented in 
the way of Machinery is here brought together. The 
great Cylinder Press on which The Times is printed (not 
the individual, but the kind) may here be seen in operation ; 
the cylinders revolve horizontally as ours do vertically ; 
and though something is gained in security by the British 
press, more must be lost in speed. Hoe's last has not yet 
been equaled on this island. But in Spinning, Weaving, 
and the subsidiary arts there are some things here, to me 
novelties, which our manufacturers must borrow or sur- 
pass ; though I doubt whether spinning, on the whole, is 
effected with less labor in Great Britain than in the United 
States. There are many recent improvements here, but 
I observe none of absorbing interest. However, I have 
much yet to see and more to comprehend in this depart- 
ment. I saw one'loom weaving Lace of a width which 
seemed at least three yards ; a Pump that would throw 
very nearly water enough to run a grist-mill, &c. &c. I 
think the American genius is quicker, more wide-awake, 
more fertile than the British ; I think that if our manufac- 
tures were as extensive and firmly established as the 
British, we should invent and improve machinery much 
faster than they do ; but I do not wish to deny that this is 
quite a considerable country. 

Wednesday, May 7 — i P. M. 

I have just returned from another and my seventh daily 
visit to the Great Exhibition. I believe J have thus far 
been among the most industrious visitors, and yet. I have 



THE GREAT EXHIBITION. 83 

not yet even glanced at one-half the articles exhibited, 
while I have only glanced at most of those I have seen. 
Of course, I am in no condition to pronounce judgments, 
and any opinion I may express must be taken subject to 
future revisal and modification. 

I know well that ^o large and diversified a show of 
Machinery could not be made up in the United States as 
is here presented in behalf of British Invention ; yet I think 
a strictly American Fair might be got up which would 
evince more originality of creation or design. If. I am 
wrong in this, I shall cheerfully say so when convinced 
of it. Many of these machines are very good of their kind 
without involving any novel principle or important adapta- 
tion. With regard to Flax-Dressing, for example, I find 
less here than I had hoped to see ; and though what I have 
seen appears to do its work well and with commendable 
economy of material, I think there are more efficient and 
rapid Flax-Dressers in the United States than are con- 
tained in this Exhibition. I have not yet examined the 
machinery for Spinning and Weaving the dressed Flax 
fiber, but am glad to see that it is in operation. The re- 
port that the experiments in Flax-Cotton have " failed" does 
not in the least discourage me. Who ever heard of a great 
economical discovery or invention that had not been re- 
peatedly pronounced a failure before it ultimately and in- 
dubitably succeeded ? 

I found one promising invention in the British depart- 
ment to-day, viz : Henley's Magnetic Telegraph, or rather, 
the generator of its power. The magnet, I was assured, 
did not require nor consume any substance whatever, but 
generated its electricity spontaneously, and in equal mea- 
sure in all varieties of weather, so that the wildest storm 
of lightning, hail, snow or rain makes no difference in the 
working of the Telegraph. If such be the fact, the inven- 
tion is one of great merit and value, and must be speedily 
adopted in our .country, where the liability of Telegraphs 

3 



34 GLANCES AT EUROPE. 

to be interrupted by storms is a crying evil I trust it is 
now near its end. 

Switzerland has a very fine show of Fabrics in the 
Fair — I think more in proportion to her numbers than any 
other Foreign Nation. Of Silks she displays a great 
i mount, and they are mainly of excellent quality. She 
hows Shawls, Ginghams, Woolens, &c, beside, as well as 
Watches and Jewelry ; but her Silk is her best point. 
The Chinese, Australian, Egyptian and Mexican contribu- 
tions are quite interesting, but they suggest little or nothing, 
unless'it be the stolidity of their contrivers. 

I see that Punch this week reiterates The Times 's slurs 
at the meagerness and poverty of the American contribu- 
tion. This is meanly invidious and undeserved. The 
inventors, artisans and other producers of our Country who 
did not see fit to incur the heavy expense of sending their 
most valuable products to a fair held three to five thousand 
miles away are unaffected by this studied disparagement, 
and those who have sent certainly do not deserve it. They 
are in no manner responsible for the setting apart for 
American contributions of more space than they fill ; they 
have rather deserved consideration and kind treatment on 
the part of the London Press. Beside, the value of their 
contributions is not at all gauged by the space they fill nor 
by the impression they make on the wondering gaze; 
articles of great merit and utility often making no figure 
at all compared with a case of figured silks or mantel 
ornaments which answer no purpose here but the owner's. 
And when it is considered that the manufacturers of 
France, Germany and Switzerland, as well as England, 
are here displaying their wares and fabrics before the eyes 
of thousands and tens of thousands of their customers — that 
their cases in the Crystal Palace are in fact so many 
gigantic advertisements, read and admired by myriads of 
merchants and other buyers from all parts of the world, 
the unfairness of the comparison instituted by the London 



THE GREAT EXHIBITION. 35 

Press becomes apparent. Our exhibitors can derive no 
such advantage from the Fair — certainly not to any such 
extent. The " Bay State Mills,''" for example, has a good 
display of Shawls here, hardly surpassed, considering 
quality and price, by any other ; yet nobody but Ameri- 
cans will thereby be tempted to give them orders ; while 
a British, Scotch, French or Swiss shawl-manufacturer 
exhibiting just such a case, is morally certain of gaining 
customers thereby in all parts of the world. But enough 
on this head. 

I may add that many Americans have been deterred 
from sending by an impression that nothing would be 
admitted that was not sent out in the St. Lawrence, or at 
all events unless received early in April. But articles are 
still acceptable, at least in our department ; and I venture 
to say that any invention, model, machine or fabric of 
decided merit which may reach our Commissioner free 
of charge before the end of June will have a place assigned 
it, although it will probably be too late "to have a chance 
for the prizes, 

These are to be mainly Medals of the finest Bronze, to 
cost $25, $12 and $5 respectively. Probably about one 
thousand of the first class, two thousand of the second and 
five thousand of the third will be distributed. But they 
are not to be given for different grades of excellence in 
the same field of exertion, but for radically diverse merits. 
The first class will be mainly if not wholly given for 
Inventions, Discoveries or Original Designs of rare 
excellence ; the second class for novel applications or 
combinations of principles already known so as to produce 
articles of signal utility, cheapness or beauty ; the third class 
will be given for decided excellence of quality or workman- 
ship without regard to originality. By this course, it is 
hoped that personal heart-burnings and invidious rival- 
ries among exhibitors may to a great extent be avoided. 

I cannot close without a word of acknowledgment to 



36 GLANCES AT EUROPE. 

our Embassador, Hon. Abbott Lawrence, for the interest 
he has taken and the labor he has cheerfully performed 
in order that our Country should be creditably repre- 
sented in this Exhibition. For many months, the entire 
burthen of correspondence, &c, fell on his shoulders ; 
and I doubt whether the Fair will have cost him less 
than five thousand dollars when it closes. That he 
has exerted himself in every way in behalf of his 
countrymen attending the Exhibition is no more than all 
who knew him anticipated ; and his convenient location, 
his wide acquaintance and marked popularity here have 
enabled him to do a great deal. Every American voice is 
loud in his praise. 

I walked through a good part of the galleries of the 
Crystal Palace this morning, with attention divided between 
the costly and dazzling wares and fabrics around me and 
the grand panorama below. Ten thousand men and 
women were moving from case to case, from one theme 
of admiration to another, in that magnificent temple of 
Art, so vast in its proportions that these thousands no 
where crowded or jostled each other ; and as many more 
might have gazed and enjoyed in like manner without 
incommoding these in the least. And these added thou- 
sands will come, when the Palace, which is still a labora- 
tory or workshop, shall have become what it aims to be, 
and when the charge for daily admission shall have been 
still farther reduced from five shillings (sterling) to one. 
Then will the artisans, the cultivators, the laborers, not 
of London only, but to a considerable extent of Great 
Britain, flock hither by tens of thousands to gaze on this 
marvellous achievement of Human Genius, Skill, Taste, 
and Industry, and be strengthened in heart and hope by 
its contemplation. And as they observe and rejoice over 
these trophies of Labor's might and beneficence, shall they 
not also perceive foreshadowed here that fairer, grander, 
gladder Future for them and theirs, whereof this show is a 



THE GREAT EXHIBITION. 37 

prelude and a prediction — wherein Labor shall build, 
replenish and adorn mansions as stately, as graceful, as 
commodious as this, not for others' delight and wonder, 
but for its own use and enjoyment — for the life-long homes 
of the builders, their wives and their children, who shall 
find within its walls not Subsistence merely, but Educa- 
tion, Refinement, Mental Culture, Employment and 
seasonable Pastime as well ? Such is the vista which this 
edifice with its contents opens and brightens before me. 
Heaven hasten the day when it shall be no longer a 
prospect but a benignant and sure realization ! 



IV. 
ENGLAND— HAMPTON COURT. 

London, Tuesday, May 6, 1851. 

I have seen little yet of England, and do not choose to 
deal in generalities with regard to it until my ignorance 
has lost something of its density. Liverpool impressed me 
unfavorably, but. I scarcely saw it. The working class 
seemed exceedingly ill dressed, stolid, abject and hopeless. 
Extortion and beggary appeared very prevalent. I must 
look over that city again if I have time. 

We came up to London by the " Trent Valley Railroad," 
through Crewe, Rugby, Tamworth, &c, avoiding all the 
great towns and traversing (I am told) one of the finest 
Agricultural districts of England. The distance is two 
hundred miles. The Railroads we traveled in no place 
cross a road or street on its own level, but are invariably 
carried under or over each highway, no matter at what 
cost ; the face of the country is generally level ; hills are 
visible at intervals, but nothing fairly entitled to the desig- 
nation of mountain. I was assured that very little of the 
land I saw could be bought for 8300, while much of it is 
held at $500 or more per acre. Of course it is good land, 
well cultivated, and very productive. Vegetation was 
probably more advanced here than in Westchester Co. 
N. Y., or Morris Co. N. J., though not in every respect. 
I estimated that two-thirds of the land I saw was in Grass, 
one-sixth in Wheat, and the residue devoted to Gardens, 
Trees, Oats or Barley, &c. There are few or no forests, 



ENGLAND HAMPTON COURT. 



properly so called, but many copses, fringes and clumps 
of wood and shrubbery, which agreeably diversify the 
prospect as we are whirled rapidly along. Still, nearly 
all the wooded grounds I saw looked meager and scanty, 
as though trees grew less luxuriantly here than with us, or 
(more probably) the best are cut out and sold as fast as 
they arrive at maturity. Friends at home ! I charge you 
to spare, preserve and cherish some portion of your primi- 
tive forests ; for when these are cut away I apprehend 
they will not easily be replaced. A second growth of trees 
is better than none ; but it cannot rival the unconscious 
magnificence and stately grace of the Red Man's lost hunt-- 
ing grounds, at least for many generations. Traversing 
this comparatively treeless region carried my thoughts 
back to the glorious magnificence and beauty of the still 
unscathed forests of Western New- York, Ohio, and a good 
part of Michigan, which I had long ago rejoiced in, but 
which I never before prized so highly. Some portions of 
these fast falling monuments of other days ought to be 
rescued by public forecast from the pioneer's, the wood- 
man's merciless axe, and preserved for the admiration and 
enjoyment of future ages. Rochester, Buffalo, Erie, Cleve- 
land, Toledo, Detroit, &c, should each purchase for pre- 
servation a tract of one to five hundred acres of the best 
forest land still accessible (say within ten miles of their 
respective centers), and gradually convert it into walks, 
drives, arbors, &c, for the recreation and solace of their 
citizens through all succeeding time. Should a portion be 
needed for cemetery or other utilitarian purposes, it may 
be set off when wanted ; and ultimately a railroad will 
afford the poor the means of going thither and returning 
at a small expense. If something of this sort is ever to be 
done, it cannot be done too soon ; for the forests are an- 
ually disappearing and the price of wood near our cities 
and business towns rapidly rising. 

I meant to have remarked ere this the scarcity of Fruit 



40 GLANCES AT EUROPE. 

throughout this region. I think there are fewer fruit-trees 
in sight on the two hundred miles of railway between 
Liverpool and London, than on the forty miles of Harlem 
Railroad directly north of White Plains. I presume from 
various indications that the Apple and Peach do not thrive 
here ; and I judge that the English make less account of 
Fruit than we do, though we use it too sparingly and fit- 
fully. If their climate is unfavorable to its abundant and 
perfect production, they have more excuse than we for 
their neglect of one of Heaven's choicest bounties. 

The approach to London from the West by the Trent 
Valley Railroad is unlike anything else in my experience. 
Usually, your proximity to a great city is indicated by a 
succession of villages and hamlets which may be desig- 
nated as more or less shabby miniatures of the metropolis 
they surround. The City may be radiant with palaces, 
but its satellites are sure to be made up in good part of 
rookeries and hovels. But we were still passing through 
a highly cultivated and not over-peopled rural district, 
when lo ! there gleamed on our sight an array of stately, 
graceful mansions, the seeming abodes of Art, Taste and 
Abundance ; we doubted that this could be London ; but 
in the course of a few moments some two or three miles 
of it rose upon the vision, and we could doubt no longer. 
Soon our road, which had avoided the costly contact as 
long as possible, took a shear to the right, and charged 
boldly upon this grand array of masonry, and in an instant 
we were passing under some blocks of stately edifices and 
between others like them. Some mile or two of this 
brought us to the " Euston-square Station," where our 
Railroad terminates, and we were in London. Of course, 
this is not " the City," specially so called, or ancient Lon- 
don, but a modern and well-built addition, distinguished 
as Camden-town. We were about three miles from the 
Bank, Post-Office, St. Paul's Church, &c, situated in the 
heart of the City proper, though nearer the East end of it 



ENGLAND HAMPTON COURT. 41 

I shall not attempt to speak directly of London. The 
subject is too vast, and my knowledge of it too raw and 
scanty. I choose rather to give some account of an ex- 
cursion I have made to the royal palace at Hampton 
Court, situated fifteen miles West of the City, where the 
Thames, which runs through the grounds adjacent, has 
shrunk to the size of the Mohawk at Schenectady, and I 
think even less. A very small steamboat sometimes runs 
up as high as this point, but not regularly, and for all prac- 
tical purposes the navigation terminates at Richmond, four 
or five miles below. 

Leaving the City by Temple Bar, you pass through the 
Strand, Charing Cross, the Hay-market, Pall Mall and 
part of Regent-street into Piccadilly, where you take an 
omnibus at " the White Horse Cellar " (I give these names 
because they will be familiar to many if not most Ame- 
rican readers), and proceed down Piccadilly, passing St. 
James's Park on the left, Hyde Park and Kensington 
Gardens on the right, and so by Kensington Road to a 
fine suspension bridge over the Thames ; you cross, and 
have passed westerly out of London. You traverse some 
two miles of very rich gardens, meadows, &c, and thence 
through the village of Barnes, composed mainly of some 
two or three hundred of the oldest, shabbiest tumble-down 
apologies for human habitations that I ever saw so close 
together. Thence you proceed through a rich, thoroughly 
cultivated garden district, containing several fine country 
seats, to Richmond, a smart, showy village ten miles 
above London, and a popular resort for holiday pleasure- 
seekers from the great city, whether by steamboat, rail- 
way, omnibus or private conveyance. Here is a fleet of 
rowboats kept for hire, while " the Star and Garter " inn 
has a wide reputation for dinners, and the scene from its 
second-story bow window is pronounced one of the finest 
in the kingdom. It certainly does not compare with that 
from the Catskill Mountain House and many others in our 



l2 GLANCES AT EUROPE. 

State, but it is a good thing in another way — a lovely- 
blending of wood, water and sky, with gardens, edifices 
and other pleasing evidences of man's handiwork. Pope's 
residence at Twickenham, and Walpole's Strawberry Hill 
are near Richmond. 

Proceeding, we drove through a portion of Bushy Park, 
the royal residence of the late Queen Dowager Adelaide, 
widow of William IV., who here manages, having house, 
grounds, &c. thrown in, to support existence on an allow- 
ance of only $500,000 a year. The Park is a noble one, 
about half covered with ancient, stately trees, among 
which large herds of tame, portly deer are seen quietly 
feeding. A mile or two further brought us to the grounds 
and palace of Hampton Court, the end and aim of our 
journey. 

This palace was built by the famous Cardinal Wolsey, 
so long the proud, powerful, avaricious and corrupt fa- 
vorite of Henry VIII. Wolsey commenced it in 1515. 
Being larger and more splendid than any royal palace 
then in being, its erection was played upon by rival 
courtiers to excite the King to envy and jealousy of his 
Premier — whereupon Wolsey gave it outright to the mo- 
narch, who gave him the manor of Richmond in requital. 
W'olsey's disgrace, downfall and death soon followed ; but 
I leave their portrayal to Hume and Shakspeare. This 
palace became a favorite residence of Henry VIII. Ed- 
ward VI. was born here ; Queen Mary spent her honey- 
moon here, after her marriage with Philip of Spain ; 
Queen Elizabeth held many great festivals here ; James 
I. lived and Queen Anne his wife died here ; Charles I. 
retired here first from the Plague, and afterward to escape 
the just resentment of London in the time of the Great 
Rebellion, After his capture, he was imprisoned here. 
Cromwell saw one daughter married and another die dur- 
ing his residence in this palace. William III., Queen 
Anne, George I. and George II. occasionally resided here ; 



ENGLAND HAMPTON COURT. 43 

but it has not been a regal residence since the death of 
the latter. Yet the grounds are still admirably kept ; the 
shrubbery, park, fish-pond, &c. are quite attractive ; while 
a famous grape-vine, 83 years old, bears some 1,100 
pounds per annum of the choicest ' : Black Hamburghs," 
which are reserved for the royal table, and (being under 
glass) are said to keep fresh and sweet on the vine till 
February. A fine avenue of trees leads down to the 
Thames, and the grounds are gay with the flowers of the 
season. The Park is very large, and the location one of 
the healthiest in the kingdom. 

Hampton Court Palace, though surrounded by guards 
and other appurtenances of Royalty, is only inhabited by 
decayed servants of the Court, impoverished and broken- 
down scions of the Aristocracy, &c. to whom the royal 
generosity proffers a subsistence within its walls. I sup- 
pose about two-thirds of it are thus occupied, while the 
residue is thrown open at certain hours to the public. I 
spent two hours in wandering through this portion, con- 
sisting of thirty-four rooms, mainly attractive by reason 
of the Paintings and other works of Art displayed on 
their walls. As a whole, the collection is by no means 
good, the best having been gradually abstracted to adorn 
those Palaces which Royalty still condescends to inhabit, 
while worse and worst are removed from those and depo- 
sited here; yet it was interesting to me to gaze at 
undoubted originals by Raphael, Titian, Poussin, Rem- 
brandt, Teniers, Albert Durer, Leonardo da Vinci, Tinto- 
retto, Kneller, Lely, &c., though not their master-pieces. 
The whole number of pictures, &c. here exhibited is 
something over One Thousand, probably five-sixths Por- 
traits. Some of these have a strong Historical interest 
apart from their artistic merit. Loyola, Queen Elizabeth, 
Anne Boleyn, Admiral Benbow, William III., Mary Queen 
of Scots, Mary de Medicis, Louis XIV. 7 are a few among 
scores of this character. The Cartoons of Raphael and 



44 GLANCES aT EUROPE. 

some beautifully, richly stained glass windows are also to 
be seen. The bed-rooms of William III., Queen Anne, 
and I think other sovereigns, retain the beds as they were 
left ; but little other furniture remains, the mirrors ex- 
cepted. I think Americans who have a day to spare in 
London may spend it agreeably in visiting this Palace, 
especially as British Royal Residences and galleries are 
reputed not very accessible to common people. At this 
one, every reasonable facility is afforded, and no gratui- 
ties are solicited or expected by those in attendance. I 
should prefer a day for such a jaunt on which there are 
fewer squalls of hail, snow and rain than we encountered 
— which in May can hardly be deemed unreasonable — but 
if no better can be found, take such as may come and 
make the best of it. This Palace is a good deal larger on 
the ground than our Capitol — larger than the Astor House, 
but, being less lofty, contains (I should judge) fewer 
rooms than that capacious structure. It is built mainly of 
brick, and if it has great Architectural merits I failed to 
discern them. 



Counsel to the Sea-Going. 

London, Tuesday, May 6th, 1851. 
I desire to address a few words of advice to persons 
about to cross the Atlantic or any other ocean for the first 
time. I think those who follow my counsel will have 
reason to thank me. 

I. Begin by providing yourself with a pair of stout, well- 
made thick boots — the coarser and firmer the better. Have 
them large enough to admit two pair of thick, warm stock- 
ings, yet sit easily on the feet. Put them on before you 
leave home, and never take them off during the voyage 
except when you turn in to sleep. 

II. Take a good supply of flannels and old woolen clothes, 



ADVICE TO THE SEA-GOING. 45 

and especially an overcoat that has seen service and is not 
afraid of seeing more. Should you come on board as if 
just out of a band-box, you will forget all your dandyism 
before your first turn of sea-sickness is over, and will go 
ashore with your clothes spoiled by the salt spray and your 
own careless lounging in all manner of places and posi- 
tions. Put on nothing during the voyage that would sell 
for five dollars. 

III. Endure your first day of sea-sickness in your berth; 
after that, if you cannot go on deck whenever the day is 
fair, get yourself carried there. You may be sick still — 
the chance is two to one that you will be ; but if you are 
to recover at all while on the heaving surge this is the way. 

IV. Move about as much as possible ; think as little as 
you can of your sickness ; but interest yourself in what- 
ever (except vomiting) may be going forward — the run of 
the ship, the management of her sails, &c. &c. Keep 
clear of all sedentary games, as a general rule ; they may 
help you to kill a few hours, but will increase your head- 
ache afterward. Talk more than you read ; and determine 
to walk smartly at least two hours every fair day, and one 
hour any how. 

V. As to eating, you are safe against excess so long as 
you are sick ; and if you have bad weather and a rough 
sea, that will be pretty nearly all the way. I couldn't ad- 
vise you, though ever so well, to eat the regular four times 
per day; though my young friend who constantly tookjfe 
hearty meals seemed to thrive on that regimen. In the 
matter of drink, if you can stick to water, do so ; I could 
not, nor could I find any palatable substitute. Try Con- 
gress Water, Seidlitz, any thing to keep clear of Wines 
and Spirits. If there were some portable, healthful and 
palatable acid beverage devoid of Alcohol, it would be a 
blessed thing at sea. 

VI. Finally, rise early if you can ; be cheerful, obliging, 
and determined to see the sunny side of everything where- 



46 GLANCES AT EUROPE. 

of a sunny side can be discovered or imagined ; and bear 
ever in mind that each day is wearing off a good portion 
of the distance which withholds you from your destina- 
tion. The best point of a voyage by steam is its brevity ; 
wherefore, I pray you, Mr. Darius Davidson, to hurry up 
that new steamer or screamer that is to cross the Atlantic 
in a week. I shall want to be getting home next August 
or September. 

VII. Don't bother yourself to procure British money at 
any such rate as $4 90 for sovereigns, which was ruling 
when I came away. Bring American coin rather than 
pay over $4 86. You can easily obtain British gold here 
in exchange for American, and I have heard of no higher 
rate than $4 87. 

VIII. Whatever may be wise at other seasons, never 
think of stopping at a London hotel this summer unless you 
happen to own the Bank of England. If you know any 
one here who takes boarders or lets rooms at reasonable 
rates, go directly to him ; if not, drive at once to the house 
of Mr. John Chapman, American Bookseller, 142 Strand, 
and he will either find you rooms or direct you to some 
one else who will. 

IX. If the day of your embarkation be fair, take a long, 
earnest gaze at the sun, so that you will know him again 
when you return. They have something they call the 
sun over here which they show occasionally, but it looks 
more like a boiled turnip than it does like its American 
namesake. Yet they cheer us with the assurance that 
there will be real sunshine here by-and-by. So mote 
it be ! 



V. 
THE FUTURE OF LABOR— DAY-BREAK. 

London, Friday, May 9, 1851. 

I have spent the forenoon of to-day in examining a por- 
tion of the Model Lodging-Houses, Bathing and Washing 
establishments and Cooperative Labor Associations already 
in operation in this Great Metropolis. My companions 
were Mr. Vansittart Neale, a gentleman who has usefully 
devoted much time and efFort to the Elevation of Labor, 
and M. Cordonnaye, the actuary or chosen director of an 
Association of Cabinet-Makers in Paris, who are exhibit- 
ors of their own products in the Great Exposition, which 
explains their chief's presence in London. We were in 
no case expected, and enjoyed the fairest opportunity to 
see everything as it really is. The beds were in some 
of the lodging-houses unmade, but we were everywhere 
cheerfully and promptly shown through the rooms, and 
our inquiries frankly and clearly responded to. I propose 
to give a brief and candid account of what we saw and 
heard. 

Our first visit was paid to the original or primitive 
Model Lodging-House, situated in Charles-st. in the heart 
of St. Giles's. The neighborhood is not inviting, but has 
been worse than it is ; the building (having been fitted up 
when no man with a dollar to spare had any faith in the 
project) is an old-fashioned dwelling-house, not very con- 
siderably modified. This attempt to put the new wine 
into old bottles has had the usual result. True, the sleep- 



48 GLANCES AT EUROPE. 

ing-rooms are somewhat ventilated, but not sufficiently so ; 
the beds are quite too abundant, and no screen divides 
those in the same room from each other. Yet these lodg- 
ings are a decided improvement on those provided for the 
same class for the same price in private lodging-houses. 
The charge is 4d. (eight cents) per night, and I believe 2s. 
(50 cents) per week, for which is given water, towels, 
room and fire for washing and cooking, and a small cup- 
board or safe wherein to keep provisions. Eighty-two 
beds are made up in this house, and the keeper assured us 
that she seldom had a spare one through the night. I could 
not in conscience praise her beds for cleanliness, but it is 
now near the close of the week and her lodgers do not 
come to her out of band-boxes. — Only men are lodged here. 
The concern pays handsomely. 

We next visited a Working Association of Piano Forte 
Makers, not far from Drury Lane. These men were not 
long since working for an employer on the old plan, when 
he failed, threw them all out of employment, and deprived 
a portion of them of the savings of past years of frugal 
industry, which they had permitted to lie in his hands. 
Thus left destitute, they formed a Working Association, 
designated their own chiefs, settled their rules of partner- 
ship ; and here stepped in several able " Promoters" of the 
cause of equitable Organization of Labor, and lent them 
at five per cent, the amount of capital required to buy out 
the old concern — viz : 83,500. They have since (about 
six weeks) been hard at .work, having an arrangement for 
the sale at a low rate of all the Pianos they can make. 
The associates are fifteen in number, all working " by the 
piece," except the foreman and business man, who receive 
$12 each per week ; the others earn from $8 to $11 each 
weekly. I see nothing likely to defeat and destroy this 
enterprise, unless it should lose the market for its pro- 
ducts. 

We went thence to a second Model Lodging House, 



THE FUTURE OF LABOR. 49 

situated near Tottenham Court Road. This was founded 
subsequently to that already described, its building was 
constructed expressly for it, and each lodger has a separate 
apartment, though its division walls do not reach the ceil- 
ing overhead. Half the lodgers have each a separate win- 
dow, which they can open and close at pleasure, in addi- 
tion to the general provision for ventilation. In addition 
to the wash-room, kitchen, clining-tables, &c, provided in 
the older concern, there is a small but good library, a large 
conversation room, and warm baths on demand for a penny 
each. The charge is 2s. 4d. (58 cents) per week; the 
number of beds is 104, and they are always full, with 
numerous applications ahead at all times for the first vacant 
bed. Not a single case of Cholera occurred here in 1849, 
though dead bodies were taken out of the neighboring alley 
(Church-lane) six or eight in a day. So much for the 
blasphemy of terming the Cholera, with like scourges, the 
work of an " inscrutable Providence." The like exemption 
from Cholera was enjoyed by the two or three other Model 
Lodging-Houses then in London. Their comparative 
cleanliness, and the coolness in summer caused by the 
great thickness of their walls, conduce greatly to this free- 
dom from contagion. 

The third and last of the Model Lodging-Houses we 
visited was even more interesting, in that it was designed 
and constructed expressly to be occupied by Families, of 
which it accommodates forty-eight, and has never a vacant 
room. The building is of course a large one, very sub- 
stantially constructed on three sides of an open court 
paved with asphaltum and used for drying clothes and as 
a children's play-ground. All the suits of apartments on 
each floor are connected by a corridor running around the 
inside (or back) of the building, and the several suits 
consist of two rooms or three with entry, closets, &c, 
according to the needs of the applicant. That which we 
more particularly examined consisted of three apartments 



50 GLANCES AT EUROPE. 

(two of them bed-rooms) with the appendages already- 
indicated. Here lived a workman witti his wife and six 
young children from two to twelve years of age. Their 
rent is 6s. ($1 50) per week, or $78 per annum ; and I am 
confident that equal accommodations in the old way 
cannot be obtained in an equally central and commodious 
portion of London or New York for double the money. 
Suits of two rooms only, for smaller families, cost but $1 
to $1 25 per week, according to size and eligibility. The 
concern is provided with a Bath- Room, VV ash-Room, 
Oven, &c, for the use of which no extra charge is made. 
The building is very substantial and well constructed, is 
fire-proof, and cost about $40,000. The ground for it was 
leased of the Duke of Bedford for 99 years at $250 per 
annum. The money to construct it was mostly raised by 
subscription — the Queen leading off with $1,500 ; which 
the Queen Dowager and two Royal Duchesses doubled ; 
then came sundry Dukes, Earls, and other notables with 
$500 each, followed by a long list of smaller and smaller 
subscriptions. But this money was given to the " Society 
for Bettering the Condition of the Laboring Classes/' to 
enable them to try an experiment ; and that experiment 
has triumphantly succeeded. All those I have described, 
as well as one for single women only near Hatton Gar- 
den, and one for families and for aged women near 
Bagnigge Wells, which I have not yet found time to 
visit, are constantly and thoroughly filled, and hundreds 
are eager for admittance who cannot be accommodated ; 
the inmates are comparatively cleanly, healthy and com- 
fortable ; and the plan pays. This is the great point. It is 
very easy to build edifices by subscription in which as 
many as they will accommodate may have very satisfac- 
tory lodgings ; but even in England, where Public Charity 
is most munificent, it is impossible to build sush dwellings 
for all from the contributions of Philanthropy ; and to 
nrovide for a hundredth part, while the residue are left as 



THE FUTURE OF LABOR. 51 

they were, is of very dubious utility. The comfort of the 
few will increase the discontent and wretchedness of the 
many. But only demonstrate that building capacious, 
commodious and every way eligible dwellings for the Poor 
is a safe and fair investment, that their rents may be 
essentially reduced thereby while their comfort is promoted, 
and a very great step has been made in the world's 
progress — one which will not be receded from. 

I saw in the house last described a newly invented Brick 
(new at least to me) which struck me favorably. It is so 
molded as to be hollow in the centre, whereby the trans- 
mission of moisture through a wall composed of this brick 
is prevented, and the dampness often complained of in 
brick houses precluded. The brick is larger than those 
usually made, and one side is wedge-shaped. 

We went from the house above described to the first 
constructed Bathing and Washing establishment, George-st. 
Euston-square. In the Washing department there are 
tubs, &c, for one hundred and twenty washers, and they 
are never out of use while the concern is open — that is 
from 9 a. m. to 7 p. m. There is in a separate Drying 
Room an apparatus for freeing the washed clothes from 
water (instead of Wringing) by whirling them very 
rapidly in a machine, whereby the water is thrown out of 
them by centrifugal force or attraction. Thence the 
clothes, somewhat damp, are placed in hot-air closets and 
speedily -dried ; after which they pass into the Ironing- 
room and are finished. The charge here is 4 cents for two 
hours in the Washing-room and 2 cents for two hours in 
the Ironing-room, which is calculated to be time enough 
for doing the washing of an average family. Everything 
but soap is supplied. The building is not capacious 
enough for the number seeking to use it, and is to be 
speedily enlarged. I believe that the charges are too 
small, as I understand that the concern merely supports 
itself without paying any interest on the capital which 
created it. 



52 GLANCES AT EUROPE. 

The Female part of the Bathing establishment is in this 
part of the building, but that for men is entered from 
another street. Each has Hot and Vapor Baths of the 
first class for 12 cents ; second class of these or first-class 
cold baths for 8 cents ; and so down to cold water baths 
for 2 cents or hot ditto for 4 cents each. I think these, 
notwithstanding their cheapness, are not very extensively — 
at least not regularly — patronized. The first class are 
well fitted up and contain everything that need be desired ; 
the others are more naked, but well worth their cost. 
Cold and tepid Plunge Baths are proffered at 6 and 12 
cents respectively. 

I must break off here abruptly, for the mail threatens to 
close. 



VI. 

BRITISH PROGRESS. ■ 

London, Thursday, May 15, 1851. 

Apart from the Great Exhibition, this is a season of in- 
tellectual activity in London. Parliament is (languidly) 
in session ; the Aristocracy are in town ; the Queen is 
lavishly dispensing the magnificent hospitalities of Royalty 
to those of the privileged caste who are invited to share 
them ; and the several Religious and Philanthropic So- 
cieties, whether of the City or the Kingdom, are generally 
holding their Anniversaries, keeping Exeter Hall in blast 
almost night and day. I propose to give a first hasty 
glance at intellectual and general progress in Great Britain, 
leaving the subject to be more fully and thoroughly treated 
after I shall have made myself more conversant with the 
facts in the case. 

A spirit of active and generous philanthropy is widely 
prevalent in this country. While the British pay more 
in taxes for the support of Priests and Paupers than any 
other people on earth, they at the same time give more for 
Religious and Philanthropic purposes. Their munificence 
is not always well guided ; but on the whole very much is 
accomplished by it in the way of diffusing Christianity 
and diminishing Human Misery. But I will speak more 
specifically. . 

The Religious Anniversaries have mainly been held, 
but few or none of them are reported — indeed, they are 
scarcely alluded to — in the Daily press, whose vaunted 



54 GLANCES AT EUROPE. 

superiority over American journals in the matter of Re- 
porting amounts practically to this — that the debates in 
Parliament are here reported verbatim, and again presented 
in a condensed form under the Editorial head of each 
paper, while scarcely anything else (beside Court doings) 
is reported at all. I am sure this is consistent neither with 
reason nor with the public taste — that if the Parliamentary 
debates were condensed one-half, and the space so saved 
devoted to reports of the most interesting Public Meetings, 
Lectures, &c, after the New- York fashion, the popular 
interest in the daily papers would become wider and 
deeper, and their usefulness as aids to General Education 
would be largely increased. To a great majority of the 
reading class, even here, political discussions — and espe- 
cially of questions so trite and so unimportant as those 
which mainly engross the attention of Parliament — are of 
quite subordinate interest ; and I think less than one reader 
in four ever peruses any more of these debates than is 
given in the Editorial synopsis, leaving the verbatim report 
a sheer waste of costly print and paper. — I believe, how- 
ever, that in the aggregate, the collections of the last year 
for Religious purposes have just about equaled the average 
of the preceding two or three years ; some Societies having 
received less, others more. I think the public interest in 
comprehensive Religious and Philanthropic efforts does not 
diminish. 

For Popular Education, there is much doing in this 
Country, but in a disjointed, expensive, inefficient manner. 
Instead of one all-pervading, straight-forward, State-direct- 
ed system, there are three or four in operation, necessarily 
conflicting with and damaging each other. And yet a 
vast majority really desire the Education of All, and are 
willing to pay for it. John Bull is good at paying taxes, 
wherein he has had large experience; and if he grumbles 
a little now and then at their amount as oppressive, it is 
only because he takes pleasure in grumbling, and this 



BRITISH PROGRESS. 55 

seems to afford him a good excuse for it. He would not 
be deprived of it if he could : witness the discussions of 
the Income Tax, which every body denounces while no 
one justifies it abstractly ; and yet it is always upheld, and I 
presume always will be. If the question could now be put 
to a direct vote, even of the tax-payers alone — " Shall or 
shall not a system of Common School Education for the 
United Kingdoms be maintained by a National Tax ?" — I 
believe Free Schools would be triumphant. Even if such 
a system were matured, put in operation, and to be sus- 
tained :by Voluntary Contributions alone or left to perish, 
I should not despair of the result. 

But there is a lion in the path, in the shape of the 
Priesthood of the Established Church, who insist that the 
children shall be indoctrinated in the dogmas of their creed, 
or there shall be no State system of Common Schools; 
and, behind these, stand the Roman Catholic Clergy, who 
virtually make a similar demand with regard to the child- 
ren of Catholics. The unreasonableness, as well as the 
ruinous effects of these demands, is already palpable on 
our side of the Atlantic. If, when our City was meditat- 
ing the Croton Water Works, the Episcopal and Catholic 
Priesthood had each insisted . that those works should be 
consecrated by their own Hierarchy and by none other, 
or, in, default of this, we should have no water-works at all, 
the case would be substantially parallel to this. Or if 
there were in some city a hundred children, whose parents 
were of diverse creeds, all blind with cataract, whom it 
was practicable to cure altogether, but not separately, and 
these rival Priesthoods were respectively to insist — " They 
shall be taught oar Creed and Catechism, and no other, 
while the operation is going on, or there shall be no 
operation and no cure," that case would not be materially 
diverse from this. In vain does the advocate of Light say 
to them, " Pray, let us give the children the inestimable 
blessing of sight, and then you may teach your creed and 



56 GLANCES AT EUROPE. 

catechism to all whom you can persuade to learn them," 
they will have the closed eyes opened according to Loyola 
or to Laud, or not opened at all ! Do they not provoke us 
to say that their insisting on an impossible, a suicidal con- 
dition, is but a cloak, a blind, a fetch, and that their real 
object is to keep the multitude in darkness ? I am thank- 
ful that we have few clergymen in America who manifest 
a spirit akin to that which to this day deprives half the 
children of these Kingdoms of any considerable school 
education whatever. 

I think nothing unsusceptible of mathematical demon- 
stration can be clearer than the imperative necessity of 
Universal Education, as a matter simply of Public Eco- 
nomy. In these densely peopled islands, where service is 
cheap, and where many persons qualified to teach are 
maintaining a precarious struggle for subsistence, a system 
of General Education need not cost half so much as in the 
United States, while wealth is so concentrated that taxes 
bear less hardly here, in proportion to their amount, than 
with us. Every dollar judiciously spent on the education 
of poor children, would be more than saved in the diminu- 
tion of the annual cost of pauperism and crime, while the 
intellectual and industrial capacity of the people would 
be vastly increased by it. I do not see how even Clerical 
bigotry, formidable as it deplorably is, can long resist this 
consideration among a people so thrifty and saving, as are 
in the main the wielders of political power in this country. 

Political Reforms move slowly here. Mr. Hume's 
motion for Household Suffrage, Vote by Ballot, Triennial 
Parliaments, &c. was denied a consideration, night before 
last,- by the concerted absence from the House of nearly 
all the members — only twenty-one appearing when forty 
(out of over six hundred) are required to constitute a quo- 
rum. So the subject lost its place as a set motion, and 
probably will not come up again this Session. The Minis- 
try opposed its consideration now, promising themselves to 



BRITISH PROGRESS. 67 

bring forward a measure for the Extension of the Fran- 
chise next Session, when it is very unlikely that they will 
be in a position to bring forward anything. It seems to 
me that the current sets strongly against their continuance 
in office, and that, between the hearty Reformers on one 
side and the out-spoken Conservatives on the other, they 
must soon surrender their semblance of power. Still, they 
are skilful in playing off one extreme against another, and 
may thus endure or be endured a year longer; but the 
probability is against this. To my mind, it seems clear 
that their retirement is essential to the prosecution of 
Liberal Reforms. So long as they remain in power, they 
will do, in the way of the People's Enfranchisement, as 
nearly nought as possible. 

( " Nothing could live 

'Twixt that and silence.") 

Their successors, the avowed Conservatives, will of 
course do nothing ; but they cannot hold power long in the 
Britain of to-day ; and whoever shall succeed them must 
come in on a popular tide and on the strength of pledges 
to specific and comprehensive Reforms which cannot well 
be evaded. Slow work, say you ? Well, there is no quick- 
er practicable. When the Tories shall have been in once 
more and gone out again, there will be another great for- 
ward movement like the Reform Bill, and I think not till 
then, unless the Continent shall meantime be convulsed by 
the throes of a general Revolution. 

I should like to see a chance for the defeat of that most 
absurd of all Political stupidities, the Ecclesiastical Titles 
Assumption Bill, but I do not. Persecution for Faith's 
sake is most abhorrent, yet sincerity and zeal may render 
it respectable ; but this bill has not one redeeming feature. 
While it insults the Catholics, it is perfectly certain to 
increase their numbers and power ; and it will do this with- 
out inflicting on them the least substantial injury. Cardi- 



58 GLANCES AT EUROPE. 

nal Wiseman will be the local head of the Catholic Church 
in England, whether he is legally forbidden to be styled 
" Archbishop of Westminster" or not, and so of the Irish 
Catholic prelates. The obstacles which the ministerial 
bill attempts to throw in the way of bequests to the Catho- 
lic Bishops as such, will be easily evaded; these Bishops 
will exercise every function of the Episcopate whether this 
Bill shall pass or fail : and their moral power will be greatly 
increased by its passage. But the Ministry, which has found 
the general support of the Catholics, and especially of the 
Irish Catholic Members, very opportune at certain critical 
junctures, will henceforth miss that support — in fact, it has 
already been transformed into a most virulent and deadly 
hostility. Rural England was hostile to the ministry be- 
fore, on account of the depressing effect of Free Trade on 
the agricultural interest ; and now Ireland is turned against 
them by their own act — an act which belies the professions 
of Toleration in matters of Faith which have given, them a 
great hold of the sympathies of the best men in the country 
throughout the last half century. I do not see how they 
can ride out the storm which they by this bill have aroused. 
The cause of Temperance — of Total Abstinence from 
all that can intoxicate — is here about twenty years behind 
its present position in the United States. I think there 
are not more absolute drunkards here than in our Ameri- 
can cities, but the habit of drinking for drink's sake is all 
but universal. The Aristocracy drink almost to a man ; 
so do the Middle Class ; so do the Clergy ; so alas ! do the 
Women ! There is less of Ardent Spirits imbibed than 
with us ; but Wines are mach cheaper and in very general 
use among the well-off; while the consumption of Ale, 
Beer, Porter, &c. (mainly by the Poor) is enormous. Only 
think of £5,000,000 or Twenty-Five Millions of Dollars, 
paid into the Treasury in a single year by the People of 
these Islands as Malt-Tax alone, while the other ingre- 
dients used in the manufacture of Malt Liquors probably 



BRITISH PROGRESS. 59 

swell the aggregate to Thirty Millions of Dollars. If we 
suppose this to be a little more than one-third of the 
ultimate cost of these Liquors to the consumers, that cost 
cannot be less than One Hundred Millions of Dollars per 
annum ! — a sum amply sufficient, if rightly expended, to 
banish Pauperism and Destitution for ever from the Bri- 
tish Isles. And yet the poor trudge wearily on, loaded to 
the earth with exactions and burdens of every kind, yet 
stupifying their brains, emptying their pockets and ruining 
their constitutions with these poisonous, brutalizing liquors ! 
I see no hope for them short of a System of Popular Edu- 
cation which shall raise them mentally above their pre- 
sent low condition, followed by a few years of systematic, 
energetic, omnipresent Temperance Agitation. A slow 
work this, but is there any quicker that will be effective ? 
The Repeal of the Taxes on Knowledge would greatly 
contribute to the Education of the Poor, but that Reform 
has yet to be struggled for. 

Of Social Reform in England, the most satisfactory 
agency at present is the Society for improving the Dwell- 
ings of the Poor. This Society has the patronage of the 
Queen, is presided over (I believe) by her husband, and is 
liberally patronized by the better portion of the Aristo- 
cracy and the higher order of the Clergy. These, aided 
by wealthy or philanthropic citizens, have contributed 
generously, and have done a good work, even though they 
should stop where they are. The work would not, could 
not stop with them. They have already proved that good ; 
substantial, cleanly, wholesome, tight-roofed, well ventilated 
dwellings for the Poor are absolutely cheaper than any 
other, so that Shylock himself might invest his fortune in 
the construction of such with the moral certainty of 
receiving a large income therefrom, while at the same 
time rescuing the needy from wretchedness, disease, bru- 
talization and vice. Shall not New- York, and all hei 
sister cities, profit by the lesson ? 



60 GLANCES AT EUROPE. 

Of the correlative doings of the organized Promoters 
of Working Men's Associations, Cooperative Stores, &c, I 
would not be justified in speaking so confidently, at leas 
until I shall have observed more closely. My present im- 
pression is that they are both far less mature in their 
operations, and that, as they demand of the Laboring 
Class more confidence in themselves and each other, than, 
unhappily, prevails as yet, they are destined to years of 
struggle and chequered fortunes before they will have 
achieved even the measure of success which the Model 
Lodging and the Bathing and Washing Houses have 
already achieved. Still, I have not yet visited the strong- 
est and most hopeful of the Working Men's Associations. 

I spent last evening with the friends of Robert Owen, 
who celebrated his 80th birthday by a dinner at the Cran- 
bourne Hotel. Among those present were Thornton 
Hunt, son of Leigh Hunt, and one of the Editors of " The 
Leader;" Gen. Haug, an exile from Germany for Free- 
dom's sake ; Mr. Fleming, Editor of the Chartist " North- 
ern Star ;" Mons. D'Arusmont and his daughter, who is 
the daughter also of Frances Wright. Mr. Owen was of 
course present, and spoke quite at length in reiteration 
and enforcement of the leading ideas wherewith he has so 
long endeavored to impress the world respecting the ab- 
solute omnipotence of circumstances in shaping the Hu- 
man Character, the impossibility of believing or disbeliev- 
ing save as one must, &c. &c. Mr. Owen has scarcely 
looked younger or heartier at any time these ten years ; he 
did not seem a shade older than when I last before met 
him, at least three years ago. And not many young men 
are more buoyant in spirit, more sanguine as to the imme- 
diate future, more genial in temper, more unconquerable 
in resolution, than he is. I cannot see many things as he 
does ; it seems to me that he is stone blind on the side of 
Faith in the Invisible, and exaggerates the truths he per- 
ceives until thev almost become falsehoods ; but I love his 



BRITISH PROGRESS. 61 

sunny, benevolent nature, I admire his unwearied exertions 
for what he deems the good of Humanity ; and, believing 
with the great Apostle to the Gentiles,- that " Now abide 
Faith, Hope, Charity : these three ; but the greatest of these 
is Charity," I consider him practically a better Christian 
than half those who, professing to be such, believe more 
and do less. I trust his life may be long spared, and his sun 
beam cloudless and rosy to the last. 



VII. 
LONDON— NE W- YORK. 

London, Monday, May 15, 1851. 

I have now been fifteen days in this magnificent Babel, 
but so much engrossed with the Exhibition that I have 
seen far less of the town than I otherwise should. Of the 
City proper (in the center) I know a little ; and I have 
made my way thence out into the open country on the 
North and on the West respectively, but toward the South 
lies a wilderness of buildings which I have not yet ex- 
plored ; while Eastward the metropolitan districts stretch 
further than I have ever been. The south side of Hyde 
Park and the main line of communication thence with the 
City proper is the only part of London with which I can 
claim any real acquaintance. Yet, on the strength of 
what little I do know, I propose to say something of Lon- 
don as it strikes a stranger ; and in so doing I shall gene- 
rally refer to New- York as a standard of comparison, so as 
to render my remarks more lucid to a great portion of their 
readers. 

The Buildings here are generally superior to those of 
our City — more substantial, of better materials, and more 
tasteful. There are, I think, as miserable rookeries here 
as anywhere ; but they are exceptions ; while most of the 
houses are built solidly, faithfully, and with a thickness of 
walls which would be considered sheer waste in our City. 
Among the materials most extensively used is a fine white 



LONDON NEW-YORK. 63 

marble* of a peculiarly soft, creamy appearance, which 
looks admirably until blackened by smoke and time. Re- 
gent-street and several of the aristocratic quarters west 
of it are in good part built of this marble ; but one of the 
finest, freshest specimens of it is St. George's Hospital, 
Piccadilly, which to my eye is among the most tasteful edi- 
fices in London. If (as 1 apprehend) St. Paul's Church, 
Somerset House, and the similarly smoke-stained dwellings 
around Finsbury Oval were built of this same marble, 
then the murky skies of London have much to answer 
for. 

Throughout the Western and Northern sections of the 
Metropolis, the dwellings are far less crowded than is usual 
in the corresponding or up-town portion of New- York, are 
more diverse in plan, color and finish, and better provided 
with court-yards, shrubbery, &c. In the matter of Build- 
ing generally, I think our City would profit by a study of 
London, especially if our lot-owners, builders, &c, would 
be satisfied with London rates of interest on their respec- 
tive investments. I think four per cent, is considered a 
tolerable and five a satisfactory interest on money securely 
invested in houses in London. 

By the way : the apostles of Sanitary Reform here 
are anticipating very great benefits from the use of the 
Hollow Brick just coming into fashion. I am assured by 
a leading member of the Sanitary Commission that the 
hollow brick cost much less than the solid ones, and are a 
perfect protection against the dampness so generally ex- 
perienced in brick houses, and often so prejudicial to 
health. That there is a great saving in the cost of their 
transportation is easily seen ; and, as they are usually made 
much larger then the solid brick, they can be laid up much 
faster. I think Dr. Southwood Smith assured me that the 
saving in the first cost of the brickwork of a house is one- 

* It seems that this plain marble is but an imitation — a stone or brick wall 
covered with a composition, which gives it a smooth and creamy appearance. 



64 GLANCES AT EUROPE. 

third; if that is a mistake, the error is one of misappre- 
hension on my part. The hollow brick is a far less perfect 
conductor of heat and cold than the solid one ; consequent- 
ly, a house built of the former is much cooler in Summer 
and warmer in Winter. It is confidently and reasonably 
hoped here that very signal improvements, in the dwellings 
especially of the Poor, are to be secured by means of this 
invention. Prince Albert has caused two Model Cottages 
of this material to be erected at his cost in Hyde Park near 
the Great Exhibition in order to attract general attention 
to the subject. 

The Streets of London are generally better paved, clean- 
er and better lighted than those of New- York. Instead 
of our round or cobble stone, the material mainly used for 
paving here is a hard flint rock, split and dressed into 
uniform pieces about the size of two bricks united by their 
edges, so as to form a surface of some eight inches square 
with a thickness of two inches. This of course wears 
much more evenly and lasts longer than cobble-stone pave- 
ments. I do not- know that we could easily procure an 
equally serviceable material, even if we were willing to 
pay for it. One reason of the greater cleanness of the 
streets here is the more universal prevalence of sewerage ; 
another is the positive value of street-offal here for fer- 
tilizing purposes. And as Gas is supplied here to citizens 
at 4s. 6d. ($1 10) per thousand feet, while the good people 
of New- York must bend to the necessity of paying $3 50, 
or more than thrice as much for the like quantity, certainly 
of no better quality, it is but reasonable to infer that the 
Londoners can afford to light their streets better than the 
New-Yorkers. 

But there are other aspects in which our streets have a 
decided superiority. There are half a dozen streets and 
places here having the same name, and only distinguished 
by appending the name of a neighboring street, as " St. 
James-place, St. James-st.," to distinguish it from several 



LONDON NEW-YORK. 65 

other St. James-places, and so on. This subjects strangers 
to great loss of time and vexation of spirit. I have not 
yet delivered half the letters of introduction which were 
given me at home to friends of the writers in this city, and 
can't guess when I shall do it. Then the numbering of the 
streets is absurdly vicious — generally 1, 2, 3, 4, &c, up 
one side and down the other side, so that 320 will be 
opposite 140, and 412 opposite 1, and so throughout. Of 
course, if any street so numbered is extended beyond its 
original limit, the result is inextricable confusion. But the 
Londoners seem not to have caught the idea of numbering 
by lots at all, but to have numbered only the houses that 
actually existed when the numbering was undertaken ; so 
that, if a street happened to be numbered when only half 
built up, every house erected afterward serves to render 
confusion worse confounded. On this account I spent an 
hour and a half a few evenings since in fruitless endeavors 
to find William and Mary Howitt, though I knew they 
lived at No. 28 Upper Avenue Road, which is less than half 
a mile long. I found Nos. 27,29, 30, and 31, and finally found 
28 also, but in another part of the street, with a No. 5 near 
it on one side and No. 16 ditto on the other — and this in a 
street 'quite recently opened. I think New- York has 
nothing equal to this in perplexing absurdity. 

The Police here is more omnipresent and seems more 
efficient than ours. I think the use of a common and 
conspicuous uniform has a good effect. No one can here 
pretend that he defied or resisted a policeman in ignorance 
of his official character. The London police appears to 
be quite numerous, is admirably organized, and seems to 
be perfectly docile to its superiors. Always to obey and 
never to ask the reason of a command, is the rule here ; 
it certainly has its advantages, but is not well suited to the 
genius of our people. 

The Hotels of London are decidedly inferior to those 
of New- York. I do not mean bv this that every comfort 

4* 



66 GLANCES AT EUROPE. 

and reasonable luxury may not be obtained in the London 
inns for money enough, but simply that the same style of 
living costs more in this city than in ours. I think $5 per 
day would be a fair estimate for the cost of living (servants' 
fees included) as well in a London hotel as you may live 
in a first-class New- York hotel for half that sum. One 
main cause of this disparity is the smallness of the inns 
here. A majority of them cannot accommodate more 
than twenty to forty guests comfortably ; I think there are 
not four in the entire Metropolis that could find room for 
one hundred each. Of course, the expense of management, 
supervision, attendance, &c, in small establishments is 
proportionably much greater than in large ones, and the 
English habit of eating fitfully solus instead of at a common 
hour and table increases the inevitable cost. Considering 
the National habits, it might be hazardous to erect and 
open such a hotel as the As tor. Irving or New- York in 
this city ; but if it were once well done, and the experiment 
fairly maintained for three years, it could not fail to work 
a revolution. Wines (I understand) cost not more than 
half as much here, in the average, as they do in New- 
York. 

In Cabs and other Carriages for Hire, London is ahead 
of New- York. The number here is immense ; they are 
of many varieties, some of them better calculated for fine 
weather than any of ours ; while the legal rates of fare are 
more moderate and not so outrageously exceeded. While 
the average New- York demand is fully double the legal 
fare, the London cabman seldom asks more than fifty per 
cent, above what the law allows him; and this (by 
Americans, at least) is considered quite reasonable and 
cheerfully paid. If our New- York Jehus could only be 
made to realize that they keep their carriages empty by 
their exorbitant charges, and really double-lock their 
pockets against the quarters that citizens would gladly 
pour into them, I think a reform might be hoped for. 



LONDON NEW-YORK. 67 

The Omnibuses of London are very numerous and 
well governed, but I prefer those of New-York. The 
charges are higher here, though still reasonable ; but the 
genius of this people is not so well adapted to the Omnibus 
system as ours is. For example : an Omnibus (the last 
for the night) was coming down from the North toward 
Charing Cross the other evening, when a lady asked to be 
taken up. The stage was full ; the law forbids the taking 
of more than twelve passengers inside ; a remonstrance 
was instantly raised by one or more of the passengers 
against taking her ; and she was left to plod her weary way 
as she could. I think that could not have happened in 
New- York. In another instance, a stage-full of passengers 
started eastward from Hyde Park, one of the women 
having a basket of unwashed clothes on her knee. It was 
certainly inconvenient, and not absolutely inoffensive ; but 
the hints, the complaints, the slurs, the sneers, with which 
the poor woman was annoyed and tortured throughout — 
from persons certainly well-dressed and whom I should 
otherwise have considered well-bred — were a complete 
surprise to me. In vain did the poor woman explain that 
she was not permitted to deposit her basket on the roof 
of the stage, as it was raining ; the growls and witticisms 
at her expense continued, and women were foremost in 
this rudeness. I doubt that a woman was ever exposed to 
the like in New- York, unless she was suspected of having 
Ethiopian blood in her veins. 

The Parks, Squares and Public Gardens of London 
beat us clean out of sight. The Battery is very good, but 
it is not Hyde Park ; Hoboken was delightful ; Kensing- 
ton Gardens are and ever will remain so. Our City ought 
to have made provision, twenty years ago, for a series of 
Parks and Gardens extending quite across the island 
somewhere between Thirtieth and Fiftieth streets, It is 
now too late for that ; but all that can be should be done 
immediately to secure breathing-space and grounds for 



68 SLANOES AT EUROPE. 

healthful recreation to the Millions who will ultimately 
inhabit New- York. True, the Bay, the North and East 
Rivers, will always serve as lungs to our City, but these 
of themselves will not suffice. Where is or where is to be 
the Public Garden of New York ? where the attractive 
walks and pleasure-grounds of the crowded denizens of the 
Eastern Wards ? These must be provided, and the work 
cannot be commenced too soon. 



VIII. 
THE EXHIBITION. 

London, Wednesday, May 21, 1851. 

" All the world " — that is to say, some scores of thou- 
sands who would otherwise be in London — are off to-day 
to the Epsom Races, this being the " Derby Day," a great 
holiday here. Our Juries at the Fair generally respect it, 
and I suppose I ought to have gone, since the opportunity 
afforded for seeing out-door " life " in England may not 
occur to me again. As, however, I have very much to 
do at home, and do not care one button which of twenty 
or thirty colts can run fastest, I stay away; and the 
murky, leaden English skies conspire to justify my choice. 
I understand the regulations at these races are superior 
and ensure perfect order ; but Gambling, Intoxication and 
Licentiousness — to say nothing of Swindling and Rob- 
bery — always did regard a horse-race with signal favor 
and delight, and probably always will. Other things being 
equal, I prefer that their delight and mine should not ex- 
actly coincide. 

I am away from the Exhibition to-day for the second 
time since it opened ; yet I understand that, in spite of 
the immense number gone to Epsom (perhaps in conse- 
quence of the general presumption that few would be left 
to attend), the throng is as great as ever. Yesterday 
there were so many in the edifice that the Juries which 
kept together often found themselves impeded by the 
eddying tide of Humanity ; and yet there have been no 



70 GLANCES AT EUROPE. 

admissions paid for with so little as one dollar each. Next 
Monday the charge comes down to one shilling (24 cents), 
and it is already evident that extraordinary measures must 
be taken to preserve the Exhibition from choking up. I 
presume it will be decreed that no more than Forty, Fifty 
or at most Sixty Thousand single admissions shall be sold 
in one day, and that each apartment, lane or avenue in 
the building shall be entered from one prescribed end only 
and vacated from the other. The necessity for some such 
regulation is obviously imperative. 

The immense pecuniary success of the Exhibition is of 
course assured. I presume the Commissioners will be able 
to pay all fair charges upon them, and very nearly, if 
not quite, clear the Crystal Palace from the proceeds, over 
$15,000 having been taken yesterday, and an average of 
more than $10,000 per day since the commencement. If 
we estimate the receipts of May inclusive at $400,000 
only, and those of June and July, at $150,000 each, the 
total proceeds will, on the 1st of August, have reached 
$700,000 — a larger sum than was ever before realized in a 
like period by any Exhibition whatever. But then no 
other was ever comparable to this in extent, variety or 
magnificence. For example : a single London house has 
One Million Dollars* worth ot the most superb Plate and 
Jewelry in the Exhibition, in a by no means unfavorable 
position ; yet 1 had spent the better portion of five days 
there, roaming and gazing at will, before I saw this lot. 
There are three Diamonds exhibited which are worth, 
according to the standard method of computing the value 
of Diamonds, at least Thirty Millions of Dollars, and 
probably could be sold in a week for Twenty Millions ; I 
have seen but one of them as yet, and that stands so con- 
spicuously in the center of the Exhibition that few who 
enter can help seeing it. And there are several miles of 
cases and lots of costly wares and fabrics exposed here, a 
good share of which are quite as attractive as the great 



THE EXHIBITION. 71 

Diamonds, and intrinsically far more valuable. Is there 
cause for wonder, then, that the Exhibition is daily thronged 
by tens of thousands, even at the present high prices ? 

Yet very much of this immediate and indisputable suc- 
cess is due to the personal influence and example of the 
Queen. Had she not seen fit to open the display in 
person, and with unusual and imposing formalities, there 
would have been no considerable attendance on that 
occasion ; and nothing less than her repeated and almost 
daily visits since, reaching the building a little past nine 
in the morning (sometimes after being engrossed with one 
of her State Balls or other festivities till long after mid- 
night), could have secured so general and constant an 
attendance of the Aristocratic and Fashionable classes. 
No American who has not been in Europe can conceive 
the extent of Royal influence in this direction. What the 
Queen does every one who aspires to Social consideration 
makes haste to imitate if possible. This personal defer- 
ence is often carried to an extent quite inconsistent with 
her comfort and freedom, as I have observed in the Crys- 
tal Palace ; where, though I have never crowded near 
enough to recognize her, I have often seen a throng block- 
ading the approaches to the apartment or avenue in which 
she and her cortege were examining the articles exhibited, 
and there (being kept back from a nearer approach by the 
Police) they have stood gaping and staring till she left, 
often for half an hour. This may be intense loyalty, but 
it is dubious civility. Even on Saturday mornings, when 
none but the Royal visiters are admitted till noon, and 
only Jurors, Police and those Exhibitors whose wares or 
fabrics she purposes that day to inspect are allowed to be 
present, I have noted similar though smaller crowds 
facing the Police at the points of nearest approach to her. 
At such times, her desire to be left to herself is clearly 
proclaimed, and this gazing by the half hour amounts to 
positive rudeness. 



72 GLANCES AT EUROPE. 

I remarked the other evening to Charles Lane that, 
while I did not doubt the sincerity of the Queen's interest 
in the articles exhibited, I thought there was some purpose 
in these continual and protracted visits — that, for Eng- 
land's sake and that of her husband, whose personal stake 
in the undertaking was so great, she had resolved that it 
should not fail if she could help it — and she knew how to 
help it. Lane assentingly but more happily observed : 
" Yes : though she seems to be standing on this side of 
the counter, she is perhaps really standing on the othe?\" 
— As I regard such Exhibitions as among the very best 
pursuits to which Royalty can addict itself, I should not 
give utterance to this presumption if I did not esteem it 
creditable to Victoria both as a Briton and a Queen. And 
it is very plain that her conduct in the premises is daily, 
among her subjects, diffusing and deepening her popu- 
larity. 

DINNER AT RICHMOND. 

The London Commissioners gave a great Dinner at 
Richmond, yesterday, to the foreign Commissioners in 
attendance on the Exhibition : Lord Ashburton presiding, 
flanked by Foreign Ministers and Nobles. The feast was 
of course superb ; the speaking generally fair ; the Music 
abundant and faultless. Good songs were capitally given 
by eminent vocalists, well sustained by instruments, between 
the several toasts with their responses — a fashion which 
I suggest for adoption in our own country, especially with 
the condition that the Speeches be shortened to give time 
for the Songs. At this dinner, no Speech exceeded fifteen 
minutes in duration but that of Baron Dupin, which may 
have consumed half an hour, but in every other respect 
was admirable. The Englishmen who spoke were Lords 
Ashburton and Granville, Messrs. Crace and Paxton ; of the 
Foreigners, Messrs. Dupin (France), Van de Weyer 



DINNER AT RICHMOND. 73 

(Belgian Charg6), Von Viebhan (Prussian), and myself. 
Lord Ashburton spoke with great good sense and good 
feeling, but without fluency. Lord Granville's remarks 
were admirable in matter but also defective in manner. 
Barons Van de Weyer and Dupin were very happy. The 
contrast in felicity of expression between the British and 
the Continental speakers was very striking, though the 
latter had no advantage in other respects. 

I went there at the pressing request of Lord Ashburton, 
who had desired that an American should propose the 
health of Mr. Paxton, the designer of the Crystal Palace, 
and Mr. Riddle, our Commissioner, had designated me for 
the service ; so I spoke about five minutes, and my remarks 
were most kindly received by the entire company ; yet 
The Times of to-day, in its report of the festival, suppress- 
es not merely what I said, but the sentiment I offered and 
even my name, merely stating that " Mr. Paxton was then 
toasted and replied as follows." The Daily News does 
likewise, only it says Mr. Paxton's health was proposed by 
a Mr. Wedding (a Prussian who sat near me). I state 
these facts to expose the falsehood of the boast lately made 
by The Times in its championship of dear newspapers like 
the British against cheap ones like the American that " In 
this country fidelity in newspaper reporting is a religion, 
and its dictates are never disregarded," &c. The pains taken 
to suppress not merely what I said but its substance, and 
even my name, while inserting Mr. Paxton's response, 
refutes the Pharisaic assumption of The Times so happily 
that I could not let it pass. — Nay, I am willing to brave the 
imputation of egotism by appending a faithful transcript 
of what I did say on that occasion, that the reader may 
guess why The Times deemed its suppression advisa- 
ble : 

After Baron Dupin had concluded, 

Horace Greeley, being next called upon by the chair, 
rose and said : 



74 GLANCES AT EUROPE. 

" In my own land, my lords and gentlemen, where Nature is still so rugged 
and unconquered, %vhere Population is yet so scanty and the demands for 
human exertion are so various and urgent, it is but natural that we should 
render marked honor to Labor, and especially to those who by invention or 
discovery contribute to shorten the processes and increase the efficiency of In- 
dustry. It is but natural, therefore, that this grand conception of a comparison 
of the state of Industry in all Nations, by means of a World's Exhibition, 
should there have been received and canvassed with a lively and general 
interest — an interest which is not measured by the extent of our contributions 
Ours is still one of the youngest of Nations, with few large accumulations of 
the fruits of manufacturing activity or artistic skill, and these so generally 
needed for use that we were not likely to send them three thousand miles 
away, merely for show. It is none the less certain that the progress of this 
great Exhibition from its original conception to that perfect realization which 
we here commemorate, has been watched and discussed not more earnestly 
throughout the saloons of Europe, than by the smith's forge and the mechanic's 
bench in America. Especially the hopes and fears alternately predominant on 
this side with respect to the edifice required for this Exhibition — the doubts as 
to the practicability of erecting one sufficiently capacious and commodious to 
contain and display the contributions of the whole world — the apprehension 
that it could not be rendered impervious to water — the confident assertions that 
it could not be completed in season for opening the Exhibition on the first of 
May as promised — all found an echo on our shores ; and now the tidings that 
all these doubts have been dispelled, these difficulties removed, will have been 
hailed there with unmingled satisfaction. 

" I trust, gentlemen, that among the ultimate fruits of this Exhibition we 
are to reckon a wider and deeper appreciation of the worth of Labor, and 
especially of those ' Captains of Industry' by whose conceptions and achieve- 
ments our Race is so rapidly borne onward in its progress to a loftier and 
more benignant destiny. We shall not be likely to appreciate less fully the 
merits of the wise Statesman, by whose measures a People's thrift and happi- 
ness are promoted — of the brave Soldier who joyfully pours out his blood in 
defense of the rights or in vindication of the honor of his Country — of the 
Sacred Teacher by whose precepts and example our steps are guided in the 
pathway to heaven — if we render fit honor also to those ' Captains of Industry* 
whose tearless victories redden no river and whose conquering march is un- 
marked by the tears of the widow and the cries of the orphan. I give you, 
therefore, 

" The Health of Joseph Paxton, Esq., Designer of the Crystal Palace — 
Honor to him whose genius does honor to Industry and to Man !" 

If the reader shall discern in the above (which is as 
nearly literal as may be — I having only recollection to de- 
pend on) the reason why The Times saw fit to suppress 
not merely the remarks, but the words of the toast and 
the name of the proposer, I shall be satisfied ; though I 
think the exposure of that journal's argument for dear 
newspapers as preferable to cheap ones, on the ground 
that the former always gave fair and accurate reports of 



EXHIBITION ITEMS. 75 

public meetings while the latter never did, is worth the 
space I have given to this matter. I am very sure that 
if my remarks had been deemed discreditable to myself or 
my country, they would have been fully reported in The 
Times. 

EXHIBITION ITEMS. 

The Queen and Prince Albert spent an hour in the 
American department a few mornings since, and appeared 
to regard the articles there displayed with deep interest. 
Prince Albert (who is esteemed here not merely a man of 
sterling good sense, but thoroughly versed in mechanics 
and manufactures) expressed much surprise at the variety 
of our contributions and the utility and excellence of many 
of them. I mention this because there are some Ameri- 
cans here who declare themselves ashamed of their country 
because of the meagerness of its share in the Exhibition. 
I do not suppose their country will deem it worth while to 
return the compliment ; but I should have been far more 
ashamed of the prodigality and want of sense evinced in 
sending an indiscriminate profusion of American products 
here than I am of the actual state of the case. It is true, 
as I have already stated, that we are deficient in some 
things which might have been sent here with advantage 
to the contributors and with credit to the country ; but for 
Americans to send here articles of luxury and fashion to 
be exhibited in competition with all the choicest wares 
and fabrics of Europe, which must have beaten them if 
only by the force of mere quantity alone, would have 
evinced a want of sense and consideration which I trust is 
not our National characteristic. If I ever do feel ashamed 
in the American department, it is on observing a pair of 
very well shaped and exquisitely finished oars, labeled, " A 
Present for the Prince of Wales," or something of the sort. 
Spare me the necessity of blushing for what we have there, 
and I am safe enough from shame on account of our defi- 
ciencies. 



76 GLANCES AT EUROPE. 

Mr. A. C. Hobbs, of the lock-making concern of Day 
& Newell, has improved his leisure here in picking a six- 
tumbler Bank Lock of Mr. Chubb, the great English lock- 
smith, and he now gives notice that he can pick any of 
Chubb's locks, or any other based on similar principles, as 
he is willing to demonstrate in any fair trial. I trust he 
will have a chance. 

The Queen quits the Exhibition for a time this week, 
and retires to her house on the Isle of Wight, where she 
will spend some days in private with her family. I pre- 
sume the Aristocracy will generally follow her example, so 
far as the Exhibition is concerned, leaving it to the poorer 
class, to whom five shillings is a consideration. Absurd 
speculations are rife as to what " the mob" will do in such 
a building — whether they will evacuate it quietly and 
promptly at night — whether there will not be a rush made 
at the diamonds and other precious stones by bands of 
thieves secretly confederated for plunder, &c. &c. I do 
not remember that like apprehensions were ever entertained 
in our country ; but faith in Man abstractly is weak here, 
while faith in the Police, the Horse-Guards and the Gal- 
lows, is strong. — There are always two hundred soldiers 
and three hundred policemen in the building while it is 
open to the public ; and in case of any attempt at robbery, 
every outlet would (by means of the Telegraph) be closed 
and guarded within a few seconds, while hundreds if not 
thousands of soldiers are at all times within call. But they 
will not be needed. 



IX. 

SIGHTS IN LONDON. 

London, Friday, May 23, 1851. 

1 have been much occupied, through the last fortnight, 
and shall be for some ten days more, with the Great Ex- 
hibition, in fulfillment of the duties of a Juror therein. 
The number of Americans here (not exhibitors) who can 
and will devote the time required for this service is so 
small that none can well be excused ; and the fairness 
evinced by the Royal Commissioners in offering to place 
as many foreigners (named by the Commissioners of their 
respective countries) as Britons on the several Juries well 
deserves to be met in a corresponding spirit. I did not, 
therefore, feel at liberty to decline the post of Juror, to 
which I had been assigned before my arrival, though it 
involves much labor and care, and will keep me here 
somewhat longer than I had intended to stay. On the 
other hand, it has opened to me sources of information and 
facilities for observation which I could not, in a brief visit, 
to a land of strangers, have otherwise hoped to enjoy. I 
spend each secular day at the Exhibition — generally from 
10 to 3 o'clock — and have my evenings for other pursuits 
and thoughts. I propose here to jot down a few of the 
notes on London I have made since the sailing of the last 
steamship. 

WESTMINSTER ABBEY. 

I attended Divine worship'in this eel Vbrated edifice last 
Sunday morning. Situated near the Houses of Parlia- 



78 GLANCES AT EUROPE. 

ment, the Royal Palaces of Buckingham and St. Jarnes, 
and in the most aristocratic quarter of the city, its external 
appearance is less imposing than I had expected, and what 
I saw of its interior did not particularly impress me. 
Lofty ceilings, stained windows, and a barbaric profusion 
of carving, groining and all manner of costly contrivances 
for absorbing money and labor, made on me the impression 
of waste rather than taste, seeming to give form and 
substance to the orator's simile of " the contortions of the 
sibyl without her inspiration/' A better acquaintance 
with the edifice, or with the principles of architecture, 
might serve to correct this hasty judgment ; but surely 
Westminster Abbey ought to afford a place of worship 
equal in capacity, fitness and convenience to a modern 
church edifice costing $50,000, and surely it does not. I 
think there is no one of the ten best churches in New 
York which is not superior to the Abbey for this purpose. 
I supposed myself acquainted with all the approved 
renderings of the Episcopal morning service, but when the 
clergyman who officiated at the Abbey began to twang 
out " Dearly beloved brethren," &c, in a nasal, drawling 
semi-chant, I was taken completely aback. It sounded as 
though some graceless Friar Tuck had wormed himself 
into the desk and was endeavoring, under the pretense of 
reading the service, to caricature as broadly as possible the 
alleged peculiarity of Methodistic pulpit enunciation 
superimposed upon the regular Yankee drawl. As the 
service proceeded, I became more accustomed and more 
reconciled to this mode of utterance, but never enough so 
to like it, nor even the responses, which were given in the 
same way, but much better. After I came away, I was 
informed that this semi-chant is termed intoning, and is 
said to be a revival of an ancient method of rendering the 
church service. If such be the fact, I can only say that 
in my poor judgment that revival was an unwise and 
unfortunate one. 






RAGGED SCHOOLS. 79 

The Service was very long — more than two hours — the 
Music excellent — the congregation large — the Sermon, so 
far as I could judge, had nothing bad in it. Yet there was 
an Eleventh-Century air about the whole which strength- 
ened my conviction that the Anglican Church will very 
soon be potentially summoned to take her stand distinctly 
on the side either of Romanism or of Protestantism, and 
that the summons will shake not the Church only but the 
Realm to its centre. 

RAGGED SCHOOLS 

In the evening I attended the Ragged School situated 
in Carter's-field Lane, near the Cattle-Market in Smithfield 
[where John Rogers was burned at the stake by Catholics, 
as Catholics had been burned by Protestants before him. 
The honest, candid history of Persecution for Faith's sake, 
has never yet been written ; whenever it shall be, it must 
cause many ears to tingle]. 

It was something past 7 o'clock when we reached the 
rough old building, in a filthy, poverty-stricken quarter, 
which has been rudely fitted up for the Ragged School — 
one of the first, I believe, that was attempted. I should 
say there were about four hundred pupils on its benches, 
with about forty teachers ; the pupils were at least two- 
thirds males from five to twenty years old, with a dozen or 
more adults. The girls were a hundred or so, mainly from 
three to ten years of age ; but in a separate and upper 
apartment ascending out of the main room, there were 
some forty adult women, with teachers exclusively of their 
own sex. The teachers were of various grades of capacity ; 
but, as all teach without pay and under circumstances 
which forbid the idea of any other than philanthropic or 
religious attractiveness in the duty, they are all deserving 
of praise. The teaching is confined, I believe, to rudi- 
mental instruction in reading and spelling, and to historic, 



80 GLANCES AT EUROPE. 

theologic and moral lessons from the Bible. As the doors 
are open, and every one who sees fit comes in, stays so 
long as he or she pleases, and then goes out, there is much 
confusion and bustle at times, but on the whole a satis- 
factory degree of order is preserved, and considerable, 
though very unequal, progress made by the pupils. 

But such faces ! such garments ! such daguerreotypes of 
the superlative of human wretchedness and degradation ! 
These pupils were gathered from among the outcasts of 
London — those who have no family ties, no homes, no 
education, no religious training, but were born to wander 
about the docks, picking up a chance job now and then, 
but acquiring no skill, no settled vocation, often compelled 
to steal or starve, and finally trained to regard the shelter- 
ed, well fed, and respected majority as their natural oppres- 
sors and their natural prey. Of this large class of vagrants, 
amounting in this city to thousands, Theft and (for the 
females) Harlotry, whenever the cost of a loaf of bread 
or a night's lodging could be procured by either, were as 
matter-of-course resorts for a livelihood as privateering, 
campaigning, distilling or (till recently) slave-trading was 
to many respected and well-to-do champions of Order and 
Conservatism throughout Christendom. And the outcasts 
have ten times the excuse for their moral blindness and 
their social misdeeds that their well-fed competitors in 
iniquity ever had. They have simply regarded the world as 
their oyster and tried to open its hard shells as they best 
could, not indicating thereby a special love of oysters but 
a craving appetite for food of some kind. It was oyster or 
nothing with them. And in the course of life thus forced 
tipon them, the males who survived the period of infancy 
may have averaged twenty-five years of wretched, debased, 
brutal existence, while the females, of more delicate frame 
and subjected to additional evils, have usually died much 
younger. But the gallows, the charity hospitals, the prisons, 
the work-houses (refuges denied to the healthy and the un- 



RAGGED SCH00L3. 81 

convicted), with the unfenced kennels and hiding-places of 
the destitute during inclement weather, generally saw the 
earthly end of 'them all by the time that men in better 
circumstances have usually attained their prime. And all 
this has been going on unresisted and almost unnoticed for 
countless generations, in the very shadows of hundreds of 
church steeples, and in a city which pays millions of 
dollars annually for the support of Gospel ministrations. 

The chief impression made on me by the spectacle here 
presented was one of intense sadness and self-reproach. I 
deeply realised that 1 had hitherto said too little, done too lit- 
tle, dared too little, sacrificed too little, to awaken attention 
to the infernal wrongs and abuses which are inherent in the 
very structure and constitution, the nature and essence, of 
civilised Society as it now exists throughout Christendom. 
Of what avail are alms-giving, and individual benevolence, 
and even the offices of Religion, in the presence of evil so 
gigantic and so inwoven with the very framework of 
Society ? There have been here in all recent times chari- 
table men, good men, enough to have saved Sodom, but not 
enough to save Society from the condemnation of driving 
this outcast race before it like sheep to the slaughter, as its 
members pressed on in pursuit of their several schemes of 
pleasure, riches or ambition, looking up to God for His 
approbation on their benevolence as they tossed a penny 
to some miserable beggar after they had stolen the earth 
from under his feet. How long shall this endure ? 

The School was dismissed, and every one requested to 
leave who did not choose to attend the prayer-meeting. 
No effort was made to induce any to stay — the contrary 
rather. I was surprised to see that three-fourths (I think) 
staid ; though this was partly explained afterwards by the 
fact that by staying they had hopes of a night's lodging here 
and none elsewhere. That prayer-meeting was the most 
impressive and salutary religious service I have attended 
for many years. Four or five prayers were made by 



82 GLANCES AT EUROPE. 

different teachers in succession — all chaste, appropriate, 
excellent, fervent, affecting. A Hymn was sung before 
and after each by the congregation — and well sung. Brief 
and cogent addresses were made by the superintendent 
and (I believe) an American visitor. Then the School 
was dismissed, and the pupils who had tickets permitting 
them to sleep in the dormitory below filed off in regular 
order to their several berths. The residue left the 
premises. We visiters were next permitted to go down 
and see those who staid — of course only the ladies being 
allowed to look into the apartment of the women. O the 
sadness of that sight ! There in the men's room were 
perhaps a hundred men and boys, sitting up in their rags in 
little compartments of naked boards, each about half-way 
between a bread-tray and a hog-trough, which, planted 
close to each other, were to be their resting-places for the 
night, as they had been for several previous nights. And 
this is a very recent and very blessed addition to the 
School, made by the munificence of some noble woman, 
who gave $500 expressly to fit up some kind of a sleeping- 
room, so that those who had attended the School should 
not all be turned out (as a part still necessarily are) 
to wander or lie all night in the always cold, damp streets. 
There are not many hogs in America who are not better 
lodged than these poor human brethren and sisters, who 
now united, at the suggestion of the superintendent, in 
a hymn of praise to God for all His mercies. Doubtless, 
many did so with an eye to the shelter and hope of food 
(for each one who is permitted to stay here has a bath and 
six ounces of bread allowed him in the morning) ; yet 
when I contrasted this with the more formal and stately 
worship I had attended at Westminster Abbey in the 
morning, the preponderance was decidedly not in favor 
of the latter. 

It seemed to me a profanation — an insult heaped on 
injury — an unjustifiable prying into the saddest secrets 



RAGGED SCHOOLS. 85 

of the great prison-house of human woe — for us visiters to 
be standing here ; and, though I apologised for it with 
a sovereign, which grain of sand will, I am sure, be wisely 
applied to the mitigation of this mountain of misery, 
I was yet in haste to be gone. Yet I leaned over the rail 
and made some inquiiy of a ragged and forlorn youth 
of nineteen or twenty who sat next us in his trough, wait- 
ing for our departure before he lay down to such rest 
as that place could afford him. He replied that he had 
no parents nor friends who could help him — had never 
been taught any trade — always did any work he could 
get — sometimes earned sixpence to a shilling per day 
by odd jobs, but could get no work lately — had no money, 
of course — and had eaten nothing that day but the six 
ounces of bread given him on rising here in the morning 
— and had only the like six ounces in prospect between 
him and starvation. That hundreds so situated should 
unite with seeming fervor in praise to God shames the 
more polished devotion of the favored and comfortable; 
and if these famishing, hopeless outcasts were to pilfer 
every day of their lives (as most of them did, and perhaps 
some of them still do), I should pity even more than I 
blamed them. 

The next night gave me a clearer idea of 

BRITISH ANTI-SLAVERY. 

The Annual Meeting of the British and Foreign Anti- 
Slavery Society was held on Monday evening, in Free- 
masons' Hall— a very fine one. There were about One 
Thousand persons present — perhaps less, certainly not 
more. I think Joseph Sturge, Esq., was Chairman, but I 
did not arrive till after the organization, and did not learn 
the officers' names. At all events, Mr. Sturge had pre- 
sented the great practical question to the Meeting — • 
" What can we Britons do to hasten the overthrow of 



84 GLANCES AT EUROPE. 

Slavery ?" — and Rev. H. H. Garnett (colored) of our 
State was speaking upon it when I entered. He named 
me commendingly to the audience, and the Chairmar 
thereupon invited me to exchange my back seat for one 
on the platform, which I took. Mr. Garnett proceeded to 
commend the course of British action against Slavery 
which is popular here, and had already been shadowed 
forth in the set resolves afterward read to the meeting. 
The British were told that they could most effectually 
war against Slavery by refusing the courtesies of social 
intercourse to slaveholders — by refusing to hear or recog- 
nise pro-slavery clergymen — by refusing to consume the 
products of Slave Labor, &c. Another colored American 
— a Rev. Mr. Crummill, if I have his name right, — 
followed in the same vein, but urged more especially the 
duty of aiding the Free Colored population of the United- 
States to educate and intellectually develop their children. 
Mr. S. M. Peto, M. P. followed in confirmation of the 
views already expressed by Mr. Garnett, insisting that he 
could not as a Christian treat the slaveholder otherwise 
than as a tyrant and robber. And then a very witty negro 
from Boston (Rev. Mr. Hexsox, I understood his name), 
spoke quite at length in unmeasured glorification of Great 
Britain, as the land of true freedom and equality, where 
simple Manhood is respected without regard to Color, and 
where alone he had ever been treated by all as a man and 
a brother 

By this time I was very ready to accept the Chairman's 
invitation to say a few words. For, while all that the 
speakers had uttered with regard to Slavery was true 
enough, it was most manifest that, whatever effect the 
course of action they urged might have in America, it 
could have no other than a baneful influence on the cause 
of Political Reform in this country. True, it did not 
always say in so many words that the Social and Political 
institutions of Great Britain are perfect, but it never inti- 



BRITISH ANTI-SLAVERY. 85 

mated the contrary, while it generally implied and often 
distinctly affirmed this. The effect, therefore, of such 
inculcations, is not only to stimulate and aggravate the 
Phariseeism to which all men are naturally addicted, but 
actually to impede and arrest the progress of Reform in 
this Country by implying that nothing here needs reforming. 
And as this doctrine of " Stand by thyself, for I am holier 
than thou," was of course received with general applause by 
a British audience, the vices of speaker and hearer reacted 
on each other; and, judging from the specimens I had 
that evening, I must regard American, and especially 
Afric-American, lecturers against Slavery in this, country 
as among the most effective upholders of all the enormous 
Political abuses and wrongs which are here so prevalent. 

When the stand was accorded me, therefore, I pro- 
ceeded, not by any means to apologize for American Sla- 
very, nor to suggest the natural obstacles to its extinction, 
but to point out, as freely as the audience would bear, 
some modes of effective hostility to it in addition to those 
already commended. Premising the fact that Slavery in 
America now justifies itself mainly on the grounds that 
the class who live by rude manual toil always are and 
must be degraded and ill-requited — that there is more de- 
basement and wretchedness on their part in the Free States 
and in Great Britain itself than there is in the Slave States 
— and that, moreover, Free laborers will not work in tro- 
pical climates, so that these must be cultivated by slaves 
or not at all — I suggested and briefly urged on British 
Abolitionists the following course of action : 

1. Energetic and systematic exertions to increase the 
reward of Labor and the comfort and consideration of the 
depressed Laboring Class here at home ; and to diffuse and 
cherish respect for Man as Man, without regard to class, 
color or vocation. 

2. Determined efforts for the eradication of those Social 
evils and miseries here which are appealed to and relied 

5 



86 GLANCES AT EUROPE. 

on by slaveholders and their champions everywhere as 
justifying the continuance of Slavery ; And 

3. The colonization of our Slave States by thousands 
of intelligent, moral, industrious Free Laborers, who will 
silently and practically dispel the wide-spread delusion 
which affirms that the Southern States must be cultivated 
and their great staples produced by Slave Labor or not 
at all. 

I think I did not speak more than fifteen minutes, and I 
was heard patiently to the end, but my remarks were re- 
ceived with no such "thunders of applause" as had been 
accorded to the more politic efforts of the colored gentle- 
men. There was in fact repeatedly evinced a prevalent 
apprehension that I would say something which it would 
be incumbent on the audience to resent; but I did not. 
And I have a faint hope that some of the remarks thus 
called forth will be remembered and reflected on. I am 
sure there is great need of it, and that denunciations of 
Slavery addressed by London to Charleston and Mobile 
will be far more effective after the extreme of destitution 
and misery uncovered by the Ragged Schools shall have 
been banished forever from this island — nay, after the great 
body of those who here denounce Slavery so unsparingly 
shall have earnestly, unselfishly, thoroughly tried so to 
banish it. 



POLITICAL ECONOMY, AS STUDIED AT THE 
WORLD'S EXHIBITION. 

London, Tuesday, May 27, 1851. 
To say, as some do, that the English hate the Americans, 
is to do the former injustice. Even if we leave out of the 
account the British millions who subsist by rude manual 
toil, and who certainly regard our country, so far as they 
think of it at all, with an emotion very different from ha- 
tred, there is evinced by the more fortunate classes a very 
general though not unqualified admiration of the rapidity 
of our progress, the vastness of our resources, and the ex- 
traordinary physical energy developed in our brief, impe- 
tuous career. Dense as is the ignorance which widely 
prevails in Europe with regard to American history and 
geography, it is still very generally understood that we 
were, only seventy years since, but Three Millions of wide- 
ly scattered Colonists, doubtfully contending, on a narrow 
belt of partially cleared sea-coast, with the mother country 
on one side and the savages on the other, for a Political 
existence ; and that now we are a nation of Twenty-three 
Millions, stretching from the Atlantic to the Pacific and 
from the cane-producing Tropic to the shores of Lake 
Superior where snow lies half the year — from Nantucket 
and the Chesapeake to the affluents of Hudson's Bay and 
the spacious harbors and sheltered roadsteads of Nootka 
Sound. And this vast extent of country, the Briton re- 
marks with pride, we have not merely overrun, as the 



t8 GLANCES AT EUROPE. 

Spaniards so rapidly traversed South America, but have 
really appropriated and in good degree assimilated, so that 
the far snores of the Pacific, which have but for three or 
four years felt the tread of the Anglo-American, are now 
dotted with energetic and thriving marts of Commerce, 
into whose lap gold mines are pouring their lavish trea- 
sures, while a profusion of steamers, ships and smaller water- 
craft link them closely with each other, with the Atlantic 
States and the Old World, while their numerous daily 
journals are aiding to diffuse the English language through 
the isles of the immense Pacific, and their " merchant 
princes" are coolly discussing the advantages of establish- 
ing a direct communication by lines of steamships with 
China and opening the wealth of Japan to the commerce 
of the civilized world. All this is marked with something 
of wonder but more of pride by the ruling classes in Great 
Britain — the pride of a father whose son has beaten him 
and run away, but who nevertheless hears with interest 
and gratification that the unfilial reprobate is conquering 
fame and fortune, and who with beaming eye observes to 
a neighbor, '' A wild boy that of mine, sir, but blood will 
tell!" If the United States were attacked by any power 
or alliance strong enough to threaten their subjugation, the 
sympathy felt for them in these islands would be intense 
and all but universal. 

And yet there is another side of the picture, which in 
fairness must also be presented. The favored classes in 
Great Britain, while they heartily admire the American 
energy and its fruits, do and must nevertheless dread the 
contagion of our example ; and this dread must increase 
and be diffused as the rapidly increasing power, population 
and* wealth of our country commend it more and more to 
the attention of the world. While we were some sixty 
days distant, and heard of mainly in connection with In- 
dian fights or massacres, fatal steamboat explosions or in- 
solvent banks, this contagion was not imminent and did 



POLITICAL ECONOMY. 89 

not seriously alarm ; but, now that New- York is but ten 
days from London, and New-Orleans (by Telegraph) 
scarcely more, the case is bravely altered, and it becomes 
daily more and more palpable that the United States and 
Great Britain cannot both remain as they are. If we in 
America can have a succession of capable and reputable 
Chief Magistrates for £5,000 a year, of Chief Justices for 
£l,000, and of Cabinets at a gross cost of less than £10,- 
000, it is manifest that John Bull, who, loyal as he is, has 
a strong instinct of thrift and a pride in getting the worth 
of his money, will not long be content to pay a hundred 
times as much for his Chief Executive and ten times as 
much for his Judiciary and Ministry as we do. It is a 
question, therefore, of the deepest practical interest to the 
British Nation whether the Americans do really enjoy the 
advantages of peace, order and security for the rights of 
person and property through instrumentalities so cheap, 
and so dependent on moral force only, as those devised 
and established by Washington and his compatriots. If 
we have these with a Civil List of less than £1,000,000 
sterling, an Army of less than Ten Thousand men, and a 
Navy (why won't it die and get decently buried ?) of a 
dozen or two active vessels, why should John tax and 
sweat himself as he does to maintain a Political establish- 
ment which costs him over 8150,000,000 a year beside the 
interest on his enormous National Debt? If we, without 
any Church endowed by law, have as ample and widely 
diffused provision for Divine worship and Religious instruc- 
tion as he has, why should he pay tithes to endow Lord 
Bishops with incomes of £10,000 to £80,000 per annum ? — 
These and similar questions are beginning to be widely 
pondered here : they refuse to be longer drowned by the 
blare of trumpets and the resonant melody of " God save 
the Queen !" I know nobody who objects to that last 
quoted sentiment, but there are many here, and the num- 
ber is increasing, who think there is an urgent and prac- 



90 GLANCES AT EUROPE. 

tical need of salvation also for the People — salvation from 
heavy exactions, unjust burthens and galling distinctions. 
And, as the interest of the Many in the reform of abuses 
and the removal of impositions becomes daily more obvious 
and palpable, so does the instinctive grasp of the Few to 
keep what they have and get what they can become 
likewise more muscular and positive. And this instinct 
absolutely demands a perversion or suppression of the 
truth with regard to America — with regard especially to 
the prevalence of order, justice and tranquillity within 
her borders. And not this only : it is important to this 
class that it be made to appear that, while Republican 
institutions may possibly answer for a time in a rude 
and semi-barbarous community of scattered grain-growers 
and herdsmen, they are utterly incompatible with a 
dense population, with general refinement, the upbuilding 
of Manufactures and the prevalence of the arts of civilized 
life. 

Here, then, is the cue to the cry so early and generally 
raised, so often and invidiously renewed by the London 
daily press, of surprise at the meagerness of our country's 
share in the Great Exhibition. Had any other young 
nation of Twenty Millions, located three to five thousand 
miles off, sent a collection so large and so creditable to its 
industrial proficiency and inventive power, it would have 
been warmly commended by these same journals ; but it is 
deemed desirable to make an impression on the public 
mind of Europe adverse to American skill and attainment 
in the Arts, and hence these representations and sneers. 

Yet, gentlemen ! what would you have ? For years you 
have been devoting your energies to the task of convincing 
our people that they should be content to grow Food and 
Cotton and send them hither in exchange for Wares and 
Fabrics, especially those of the finer and costlier varieties. 
You have written reams of essays intended to prove that 
this course of Industry and Trade is dictated by Nature, 



POLITICAL ECONOMY. 91 

by Providence, by Public Good; and that only narrow and 
short-sighted selfishness would seek to overrule it. Well : 
here are American samples of all the staples you say our 
Country ought to produce and be content with, in unde- 
niable abundance and excellence — Cotton, Wool, Wheat, 
Flour, Indian Corn, Hams, Beef, &c, &c, yet these you 
run over with a glance of cool contempt, and say we have 
nothing in the Exhibition ! Is this kind or politic treat- 
ment of the supporters of your policy in the States ? If a 
seeming approximation to your Utopia should subject them 
to such compliments, what may they expect from its 
perfect consummation ? Let all our States become as 
purely Agricultural as the Carolinas or the lower valley 
of the Mississippi, and what would then be your estima- 
tion of us ? If a half-way obedience to your counsels 
exposes us to such disparagement, what might we fairly 
expect from a thorough submission ? 

The vital truth, everywhere demonstrable, is nowhere 
so palpable as here — that a diversification of Industrial 
pursuits is essential not only to the prosperity and thrift., 
but also to the education and intellectual activity of a 
People. A community which witnesses from year to year 
the processes of Agricultural labor only, lacks a stimulus 
to mental cultivation of inestimable value. If Europe were 
to say to America, "Sit still, and we will send you from 
year to year all the Wares and Fabrics you need for 
nothing, on the simple condition that you will not attempt 
to produce any yourselves," it would be most unwise and 
suicidal to accept the offer. For we need not more the 
Wares and Fabrics than the skill which fashions and the 
taste which beautifies them. We need that multiform 
capacity and facility of hand and brain which only 
experience in the Arts can bestow and diffuse. The 
National Industry is the People's University ; to confine 
it to a few and those the ruder branches is to stunt and 
stagnate the popular mind — -is to arrest the march of 



92 GLANCES AT EUROPE. 

improvement in Agriculture itself. Hence, nearly or quite 
all the modern improvements in Cultivation have been 
made in immediate proximity to a dense Manufacturing 
population ; hence Belgium is now a garden, while Ireland 
(except the manufacturing North) is to a great extent 
stagnant and decaying. Other causes doubtless conspire, 
as in England contrasted with Italy and Spain, to produce 
these results ; but they do not unsettle the general truth 
that Industry advances through a symmetric and many- 
sided development or does not advance at all. 

We have yet much to learn in the Arts, but the first 
lesson of all is a well-founded confidence in our own 
artisans, our own capacities, with a patriotic resolution to 
encourage the former and develop the latter. And this 
confidence is abundantly justified even by what is exhibited 
here. While our show of products is much less than it 
might and less even than it should have been, those who 
have really studied it draw thence hope and courage. No 
other nation exhibits within a similar compass so great a 
diversity of excellence — no other exhibits so large a pro- 
portion of inventions and valuable improvements. Even 
in the vast apartment devoted to British Machinery, the 
number and importance .of the American inventions 
exhibited (some of them adapted to new uses or improved 
upon in this country ; others merely incorporated with 
British improvements), is very striking. I doubt whether 
England during the last half century has borrowed so many 
inventions from all the world beside — I am sure she has 
not from all except France — as she has from the United 
States. And yet we are blessed with the presence of 
sundry Americans here who, without having examined our 
contributions, without knowing anything more about them 
than they have gleaned from The Times and Punch, aided 
by a hurried walk through the department, are busily 
proclaiming that this show makes them ashamed of their 
country ! 



POLITICAL ECONOMY. 93 

Here is the great source of our weakness — a want of pro- 
per pride in and devotion to our own Industrial interests. 
Every sort of patriotism is abundant in America but that 
which is most essential — that which aids to develop and 
strengthen the Nation's productive energies. No other 
people buy Foreign fabrics extensively in preference to 
the equally cheap and more substantial products of their 
own looms, yet ours do it habitually. I had testimony after 
testimony from American merchants on the voyage over, 
as well as before and since, that foreign fabrics habitually 
sell in our markets for ten to twenty per cent, more than 
is asked for equally good American products, while thou- 
sands of pieces of the latter are readily sold on the strength 
of fabricated Foreign marks at prices which they would 
not command,to customers who would not buy them, if their 
origin were known. This is certainly disgraceful to the 
seller — what is it to the buyer ? The mercantile interest 
naturally leans toward the more distant production — the 
margin for profit is larger where an article is brought 
across an ocean, while the cost of a home-made article is 
so notorious that there is little chance of putting on a 
large profit. Give American producers the prices now 
readily paid throughout our country for Foreign fabrics, 
and they will grow rich by manufacturing articles in no 
respect inferior to the former. But with only a share of 
the American market, and this mainly for the coarsest and 
cheapest goods, while the purchasers of the more costly 
and fanciful, on which the larger profits are made, must 
have " Fabrique de Paris' 5 or some such label affixed to 
render them current, our manufacturers have no fair 
chance. While fools could be found to buy "Cashmere 
Shawls," costing fifty to a hundred dollars, for five hundred 
to a thousand, under the absurd delusion that they came from 
Eastern Asia, the fabrication and the profits were Euro- 
pean ; let an American begin to make just such Shawls and 
the secret is out, so the price sinks at once to the neigh- 

o* 



94 GLANCES AT EUROPE. 

borhood of the cost of production. So with De Laines, 
Counterpanes, Brussels Carpetings and fabrics generally ; 
and yet Americans will talk as though the encouragement 
given by Protective Duties to Home Manufactures were 
given at the expense of our consumers. Vainly are they 
challenged from day to day to name one single article 
whereof the production has been transplanted from Europe 
to America through Protection, which has not thereby been 
materially cheapened to the American consumer; it suits 
them better to assume that the duty is a tax on the con- 
sumer than to examine the case and admit the truth. But 
delusion cannot be eternal. 

That our Country would at some future day work its way 
gradually out of its present semi-Colonial dependence on 
European tastes, European fashions, European fabrication, 
even though all Legislative encouragement were withheld, 
I firmly believe. The genius, the activity, the energy, the 
enterprise of our people conspire to assure it. So the thief, 
the burglar, the forger, are certain to sutler for their misdeeds 
though all the penalties of human laws were repealed, and 
yet I consider state prisons and houses of correction salutary 
if not indispensable. It is difficult for even an ingenious and 
inventive race to make improvements in an art or process 
which has no existence among them. Whitney's Cotton-Gin 
presupposed the growth of Cotton ; Fulton's steamboat the 
existence of internal commerce and navigation ; without 
Lowell, Bigelow might have invented a new trap for musk- 
rats but not looms for weaving Carpets, Ginghams, Coach- 
Lace, &c. I deeply feel that our Country owes to man- 
kind the duty of so sustaining her Manufacturing Industry 
that further and more signal triumphs of her inventive 
genius may yet be evolved and realised, not merely in 
the domain of Fabrics but in that of Wares and Metals 
also, and especially in that of the chief metal, Iron. Had 
Iron enjoyed for twenty years such a measure of Protec- 
tion among us as Plain Cottons obtained from 1816 through 



POLITICAL ECONOMY. 95 

Mr. Calhoun's minimum of six cents per square yard, we 
should, in all probability, have been producing Iron by this 
time as cheaply as Drills and Sheetings — that is, as cheaply 
(quality considered) as any nation on the globe — as cheaply 
as we produce School-Books, Newspapers, and nearly 
every article whereof the American maker is shielded by 
circumstances fram Foreign competition. Had the Tariff 
of 1842 but stood unaltered till this time, who believes 
that even the greenest and silliest American could have 
fancied himself blushing for the meagerness of his country's 
share in the Great Exhibition? 



XI. 
ROYAL SUNSHINE. 

London, Thursday, May 29, 1851. 

I have now been four weeks in this metropolis, and, 
though confined throughout nearly every day to the Crys- 
tal Palace, I have enjoyed large and various opportunities 
for studying the English People. I have made acquaint- 
ances in all ranks, from dukes to beggars — all ranks, I 
should say, but that whioh is esteemed the highest. I have 
of course seen the Royal family repeatedly at the Exhibi- 
tion, which is open at all hours to Jurors, and the Queen 
times her visits so as to be there mainly while it is closed 
to the public. But I have barely seen her party, as I passed 
it with a double row of gazers interposed, all eager to catch 
the sunlight of Majesty, appearing to care little how much 
she might be annoyed or they abased by their unseemly 
gaping. I hope no Americans contributed to swell these 
groups, but after what I have seen here I am by no means 
sure of it. 

A young countrywoman who has not yet been long 
enough in Europe to forget what it cost our forefathers to 
be rid of all this, but who had in her own case adequate 
reasons for desiring a presentation at Court, gave me some 
days since a graphic account of the ceremonial, which I 
wish I had committed to paper while it was freshly re- 
membered. It is of course understood that every one pre- 
sented to her Majesty must appear in full dress — that of 
gentlemen (not Military) being a Court suit alike costly, 



ROYAL SUNSHINE. 97 

fantastic and utterly useless elsewhere, while ladies are 
expected to appear in rich DCf 3 British silk (Free Trade 
notwithstanding) with a train three yards long (perhaps 
it is only three feet), with plumes, &c. Thus equipped, 
they proceed to the Palace, where at the appointed hour 
the Queen makes her appearance, with her family by her 
side and backed by a double row of maids of honor, at- 
tendants, &c. Each palpitating aspirant to the honor of 
presentation awaits his or her turn standing, and may 
thus wait two hours. The Foreign Embassadors have 
precedence in presenting ; others follow ; in due season 
your name is called out ; you pass before the Royal pre- 
sence, make your bow or courtesy, receive the faint sug- 
gestion of a response, and pass along and away to make 
room for the next customer. Unless you belong essentially 
to the Diplomatic circle (being presented by an Embassa- 
dor will not answer), you are not allowed to remain and 
see those behind you take the plunge, but must hasten 
forthwith from the presence. And, as ordinary Humanity 
has but one aspect in which it is fit to be gazed on by Royal 
eyes, you must contrive to quit the presence with your 
face constantly turned toward it. Now this need not be 
difficult for those in masculine attire, but to the wearers 
of the rich Spitalfields silks and trains aforesaid, even 
though the trains be but three feet long instead of three 
yards, the evolution must require no moderate share of 
feminine tact and dexterity. It is consoling to hear that 
all manage to accomplish it, by dint of severe training 
through the week preceding the event; though some are. 
so frightened when the awful moment arrives that their 
ghastly visages and tottering frames evince how narrowly 
they escape swooning. The fact that it is over in a mo- 
ment serves materially to mitigate the torture. 

" What ridiculous formalities ! — What absurd require- 
ments !" exclaims Brother Jonathan. No, sir ! You are 
judging without knowledge or without consideration. 



98 GLANCES AT EUROPE. 

These and kindred formalities, considered apart, may be 
ludicrous, but, regarded as portions of a system, they are 
essential. In a country where everything gravitates so 
intensely toward the Throne, there must be impediments 
to presentation at Court, if the Sovereign is to enjoy any 
leisure, peace, comfort, or even time for the most pressing 
public duties. There is and should be no absolute barrier 
to the presentation of any well-bred, well-behaved person, 
whether subject or foreigner ; and, if it were as easy as 
visiting the Exhibition, the Queen would be required to 
hold a drawing-room every day, and devote the whole of 
it to unmeaning and useless introductions. As the matter 
is actually managed, those who have any good reason for 
it undergo the ceremony, with many who have none ; while 
the great majority are content with the knowledge that 
they might be admitted to the august presence if they 
chose to incur the bother and expense. Those who che- 
rish a moth-like reverence for Royalty indulge it at their 
own cost and to the advantage of Trade ; weavers, cos- 
tumers and shop-keepers are very glad to pocket the money 
which the presentee must disburse ; and even those ladies 
who have the entree, and so attend half a dozen drawing- 
rooms per annum, are expected to appear at each in a 
new dress — thus the interests of the shop are never lost 
sight of. These Court formalities, Brother J., are not ab- 
surd — very far from it. They are rational, politic, benefi- 
cent, indispensable. Whether it is wise or unwise for your 
young folks to subject themselves to the inevitable expense 
and vexation for the sake of standing a few feet nearer a 
Queen, is another affair altogether. When I contrast these 
presentations with the freedom and ease (except when 
there is a jam) of our Presidential receptions — when I re- 
member that any whole dress is good enough for the White 
House, and any honest man or woman (with some not so 
honest) may go up on a levee night and be introduced to 
the President and his lady, saunter through the rooms, 



ROYAL SUNSHINE. 99 

converse with friends and pass in review half the notables 
of the Nation — I deeply realize the superiority of Repub- 
licanism to Royalty, but without seeking to put the new 
wine into old bottles. The forms appropriate to our sim- 
pler institutions would be utterly unsuitable here — nay, 
they would be found impossible. 

The Queen left London last week for her private re- 
sidence on the Isle of Wight, I supposed for weeks ; 
but she was back in the Exhibition early on Tuesday 
morning, and has since been holding a Drawing-Room, 
giving Dinners, a Concert, &c. with her accustomed 
activity. She seems resolved to make the Exhibition 
Summer an agreeable one for the Foreigners in attendance, 
many of whom are included in her invitations. As the 
" shilling days " opened meagerly on Monday, to the 
disappointment (perhaps because) of the general apprehen- 
sion of a crush, and as the numbers thronging thither have 
rapidly increased ever since, the Queen's renewed counte- 
nance receives a good share of the credit, and her condes- 
cension in coming on a " shilling day " is duly commended. 
It is already plain enough that the attendance consequent 
on the cheap admission is destined to be enormous. To- 
day over Fifty Thousand paid their shilling each, over six 
thousand per hour — to say nothing of the thousands who 
came in on season tickets, or as exhibitors, jurors, &c. 
The money taken at the doors to-day must have exceeded 
$12,000, though no "excursion trains" have yet come in 
from the Country. These will begin to pour in next week, 
by which time it is to be hoped that the Juries will have 
completed their examinations if not their awards ; for they 
will have scanty elbow-room afterward except at early 
hours in the morning. I presume there will be Fifty 
Thousand admissions paid for during each of the four 
" shilling days," of next week. Fridays henceforth the 
admission is to be 2s. 6d. (60 cents), and Saturdays 5s. 
($1 20), and many believe the Palace will be as crowded 
on these as on other days. I doubt. 



100 GLANCES AT EUROPE. 



THE LITERARY GUILD. 



" The Guild of Literature and Art " will have already 
been heard of in America. It is an undertaking of several 
fortunate authors and their friends to make some provision 
for their unsuccessful brethren — for those who had the 
bad luck to be born before their time, as well as those who 
would apparently have done better by declining to be born 
at all. The world overflows with writers who would fain 
transmute their thoughts into bread, and lacking the 
opportunity, have a slim chance for any bread at all, even 
the coarsest. No other class has less worldly wisdom, less 
practical thrift ; no other suffers more keenly from " the 
slings and arrows of outrageous fortune," than unlucky 
authors. If anything can be done to mitigate the severity 
of their fate, and especially if their more favored brethren 
can do it, there ought to be but one opinion as to its 
propriety. 

And yet I fear the issue of this project. The world is 
scourged by legions of drones and adventurers who have 
taken to Literature as in another age they would have 
taken to the highway — to procure an easy livelihood. 
They write because they are too lazy to work, or because 
they would scorn to live on the meager product of manual 
toil. Of Genius, they have mainly the eccentricities — 
that is to say, a strong addiction to late hours, hot suppers 
and a profusion of gin and water, though they are not 
particular about the water. What Authorship needs above 
all things is purification from this Falstaffs regiment, who 
should be taught some branch of honest industry and 
obliged to earn their living by it. So far, therefore, am I 
from regretting that every one who wishes cannot rush 
into print, and joining in the general execration of pub- 
lishers for their insensibility to unacknowledged merit, that 
I wish no man could have his book printed until he had 



THE LITERARY GUILD. 101 

earned the cost thereof by bona fide labor, and that no one 
could live by Authorship until after he had practically de- 
monstrated both his ability and willingness to earn his 
living in a different waj^. I greatly fear the proposed 
" Guild," even under the wisest regulations, will do as 
much harm as good, by aggravating the prevalent tendency 
toward Authorship among thousands who never asked 
whether the world is likely to profit by their lucubrations, 
but only whether they may hope to profit by them. If the 
" Guild " should tend to increase the number of aspirants 
to the honors and rewards of Authorship, it will incite 
more misery than it is likely to overcome. 

However, this is an attempt to mend the fortunes of 
unlucky British Authors ; and as we Americans habitually 
steal the productions of British Authorship, and deliberate- 
ly refuse them that protection to which all producers are 
justly entitled. I feel myself fairly indebted to the class, by 
the amount of my reading of their works to which Copy- 
right in America is denied. I meant to have attended 
the first dramatic entertainment given at Devonshire 
House in aid of this enterprise, but I did not apply for 
a ticket (price £5) till too late ; so I took care to be in 
season for next time — that is, Tuesday evening of this 
week. 

The play (as before) was " Not so Bad as We Seem, or 
Many Sides to a Character," written expressly in aid of 
the " Guild " by Bulwer, and performed at the town man- 
sion of the Duke of Devonshire, one of the most wealthy 
and popular of the British nobility. On the former evening 
the Q.ueen and Royal Family attended, with some scores 
of the Nobility ; this time there was a sprinkling of 
Duchesses, &c, but Commoners largely preponderated, 
and the hour of commencing was changed from 9 to 7j 
p. m. The apartment devoted to the performance is a 
very fine one, and the whole mansion, though common- 
place enough in its exterior, is fitted up with a wealth of 



102 GLANCES AT EUROPE. 

carving, gilding, sculpture, &c, which can hardly be 
imagined. The scenes were painted expressly in aid of 
the "Guild," and admirably done. The Duke's private 
band played before and between the acts, and nothing had 
been spared on his part to render the entertainment a 
pleasant one. Every seat was filled, and, at $10 each and 
no expenses out, a handsome sum must have been realized 
in aid of the benevolent enterprise. 

The male performers, as is well understood, are all Lite- 
rary amateurs ; the ladies alone being actresses by profes- 
sion. Charles Dickens had the principal character — that 
of a profligate though sound-hearted young Lord — and he 
played it very fairly. But stateliness sits ill upon him, and 
incomparably his best scene was one wherein he appears 
in disguise as a bookseller tempting the virtue of a poverty- 
stricken author. Douglas Jerrold was for the nonce a 
young Mr. Softhead, and seemed quite at home in the 
character. It was better played than Dickens's. The 
residue were indifferently good — or rather, indifferently 
bad — and on the whole the performance was indebted for 
its main interest to the personal character of the per- 
formers. I was not sorry when it was concluded. 

After a brief interval for refreshments, liberally proffered, 
a comic afterpiece, " Mr. Nightingale's Diary," was given 
with far greater spirit. Dickens personated the principal 
character — or rather, the four or five principal characters 
— for the life of the piece is sustained by his appearance 
successively as a lawyer, a servant, a vigorous and active 
gentleman relieved of his distempers by water-cure, a 
feeble invalid, &c, &c. It is long since I saw much acting 
of any account, but this seemed to me perfect ; and I am 
sure the raw material of a capital comedian was put to a 
better use when Charles Dickens took to authorship. The 
other characters were fairly presented, and the play heartily 
enjoyed throughout. 

The curtain fell about half an hour past midnight amidst 



THE FISHMONGERS' DINNER. 103 

tumultuous and protracted applause. The company then 
mainly repaired to the supper room, where a tempting dis- 
play of luxuries and dainties was provided for them by the 
munificence of their noble host. I did not venture to par- 
take at that hour, but those who did would be quite unlikely 
to repent of it — till morning. Thence they were gradually 
moving off to another superb apartment, where the violins 
were beginning to give note of coming melody, to which 
flying feet were eager to respond ; but I thought one 
o'clock in the morning quite late enough for retiring, and 
so came away before the first set was made up. f do not 
doubt the dancing was maintained with spirit till broad 
daylight. 

THE FISHMONGERS' DINNER. 

A sumptuous entertainment was given on Wednesday 
(last) evening by the " Ancient and Honorable Company of 
Fishmongers" — this being their regular annual festival. 
The Fishmongers' is among the oldest and wealthiest of the 
Guilds of London, having acquired, by bequest or other- 
wise, real estate which has been largely enhanced in value 
by the city's extension. Originally an association of actual 
fishmongers for mutual service as well as the cultivation 
of good fellowship, it has been gradually transformed by 
Time's changes until now no single dealer in fish (I under- 
stood) stands enrolled among its living members, and no 
fish is seen within the precincts of its stately Hall save on 
feast-days like this. Still, as its rents are ample, its privi- 
leges valuable, its charities bounteous, its dinners superla- 
tive, its cellars stored with ancient wines, and its leaning 
decided toward modern ideas, its roll of members is well 
filled. Most of them are city men extensively engaged in 
business, two or three of the City's Members of Parliament 
being among them. There were perhaps a dozen Members 
present, including Lord Palmerston, Foreign Secretary of 



104 GLANCES AT EUROPE. 

State, and Joseph Hume, the world-known Economist. 
The chair was filled by " Sir John Easthope, Prime Warden." 
The chairmen of the several Juries at the Exhibition were 
among the guests. 

Having recently described the Dinner to the Foreign 
Commissioners at Richmond, I can dispatch this more 
summarily, only noting what struck me as novel. Suffice 
it that the company, three hundred strong, was duly seated, 
grace said, the dinner served, and more than two hours 
devoted to its consumption. It was now ten o'clock, and 
Lord Palmerston, who was expected to speak and reputed 
to be rarely gifted with fluency, was obliged to leave for 
the Queen's Concert. Up to this time, no man had been 
plied with more than a dozen kinds of wine, each (I pre- 
sume) very good, but altogether (I should suppose) calcu- 
lated to remind the drinker of his head on rising in the 
morning. The cloth was now removed and after-grace 
sung by a choir, but even with two prayers this sort of 
omnivorous feasting at night is not quite healthy. I trust 
there is no presumption involved in the invocation of a 
blessing on such indulgences, yet I could imagine that an 
omission of one of the prayers might be excused if half the 
dinner were omitted also. 

But the eatables were removed, silence restored, and 
three enormous flagons, apparently of pure gold, placed on 
the table near its head. The herald or toast-master now 
loudly made proclamation : " My Lord Viscount Ebrington, 
my Lord de Mauley, Baron Charles Dupin (&c. &c, re- 
citing the names and titles of all the guests), the honorable 
Prime Warden, the junior Wardens and members of the 
ancient and honorable Company of Fishmongers bid you 
welcome to their hospitable board, and in token thereof 
beg leave to drink your healths" — whereupon the Prime- 
Warden rose, bowing courteously to his right-hand neigh- 
bor (who rose also), and proceeded to drink his health, 
wiping with his napkin the rim of the flagon, and passing 



THE FISHMONGERS' DINNER. 105 

it to the neighbor aforesaid, who in turn bowed and drank 
to his next neighbor and passed the wine in like manner, 
and so the flagons made the circuit of the tables. Then 
the festive board was re-covered with decanters, and the 
intellectual enjoyments of the evening commenced, the 
vinous not being intermitted. 

The toasts were, " The Queen," " Prince Albert and 
the Royal Family," " The Foreign Commissioners to the 
World's Exhibition," " The Royal Commissioners," " The 
Army and Navy," " The House of Lords," " The House 
of Commons," " The Health of the Prime Warden," " Civil 
and Religious Liberty," " The Ministry," " The Bank of 
England," <fcc. The responsive speeches were made by 
Baron Dupin for the Foreign Commissioners, Earl Gran- 
ville for the Royal ditto, Lord de Mauley for the Peers, 
Viscount Ebrington for the Commons, Gen. Sir Hugh de 
Lacy Evans for the Army, Solicitor General Wood (in the 
absence of Lord Palmerston) for the Ministry, the Deputy- 
Governor in behalf of the Governor of the Bank of 
England, Dr. Lushington in response to Civil and Re- 
ligious Liberty, and so on. When Baron Dupin rose to 
respond for the Foreign Commissioners, they all rose and 
stood while he spoke, and so in turn with the Royal 
Commissioners, Members of the House of Commons, &c. 
Earl Granville's was the most amusing, Dr. Lushington's 
the most valuable speech of the evening. It briefly glanced 
at past struggles in modern times for the extension of 
Freedom in England, and hinted at similar struggles to 
come, pointing especially to Law Reform. Dr. L. is a 
very earnest speaker, and has won a high rank at the Bar 
and in public confidence. 

I was more interested, however, in the remarks of Mr. 
Sergeant Talfourd, author of " Ion," and of Sir James 
Brooke, " Rajah of Sarawak " (Borneo, E. I.), who spoke 
at a late hour in reply to a personal allusion. I do not 
mean that Mr. Talfourd's remarks especially impressed 



106 GLANCES AT EUROPE. 

me, for they did not, but I was glad of this opportunity of 
hearing him. The Rajah is a younger and more vivacious 
man than I had fancied him, rather ornate in manner, and 
spoke (unlike an Englishman) with more fluency than 
force, in self- vindication against the current charge of 
needless cruelty in the destruction of a nest of pirates in 
the vicinity of his Oriental dominions. From reading, I 
had formed the opinion that he is doing a good work for 
Civilization and Humanity in Borneo, but this speech did 
not strengthen my conviction. 

Farther details would only be tedious. Enough that the 
Fishmongers' Dinner ended at midnight, when all quietly 
and steadily departed. In " the good old days," I presume 
a considerable proportion both of hosts and guests would 
by this time have been under the table. Let us rejoice 
over whatever improvement has been made in social 
habits and manners, and labor to extend it. 



XII. 
THE FLAX-COTTON REVOLUTION. 

London, Wednesday, June 4, 1851. 

Although I have not yet found time for a careful and 
thorough examination of the machinery and processes 
recently invented or adopted in Europe for the manufacture 
of cheap fabrics from Flax, I have seen enough to assure 
me of their value and importance. I have been disappointed 
only with regard to machinery for Flax-Dressing, which 
seems, on a casual inspection, to be far less efficient than 
the best on our side of the Atlantic, especially that patented 
of late in Missouri and Kentucky. That in operation in 
the British Machinery department of the Exhibition does 
its work faultlessly, except that it turns out the product 
too slowly. I roughly estimate that our Western machines 
are at least twice as efficient. 

M. Claussen is here, and has kindly explained to me 
his processes and shown me their products. He is no 
inventor of Flax-dressing; Machinerv at all, and claims 
nothing in that line. In dressing, he adopts and uses the 
best machines he can find, and I think is destined to receive 
important aid from American inventions. What he claims 
is mainly the discovery of a cheap chemical solvent of the 
Flax fiber, whereby its coarseness and harshness are 
removed and the fineness and softness of Cotton induced 
in their stead. This he has accomplished. Some of his 
Flax-Cotton is scarcely distinguishable from the Sea 
Island staple, while to other samples he has given the 
character of Wool very nearly. I can imagine no reason 



108 GLANCES AT EUROPE. 

why this Cotton should not be spun and woven as easily 
as any other. The staple may be rendered of any desired 
length, though the usual average is about two inches. It 
is as white as any Cotton, being made so by an easy and 
cheap bleaching process. M. Claussen's process in lieu of 
Rotting requires but three hours for its completion. It 
takes the Flax as it came from the field, only somewhat 
dryer and with the seed beaten off, and renders it thoroughly 
fit for breaking. The plant is allowed to ripen before it is 
harvested, so that the seed is all saved, while the tedious- 
ness and injury to the fiber, not to speak of the unwhole- 
someness, of the old-fashioned Rotting processes are 
entirely obviated. Where warmth is desirable in the 
fabrics contemplated, the staple is made to resemble Wool 
quite closely. Specimens dyed red, blue, yellow, &c, are 
exhibited, to show how readily and satisfactorily the Flax- 
Cotton takes any color that may be desired. Beside these 
lie rolls of Flannels, Feltings, and almost every variety of 
plain textures, fabricated wholly or in good part from Flax 
as prepared for Spinning under M. Claussen's patent, 
proving the adaptation of this fiber to almost every use 
now subserved by either Cotton or Wool. The mixtures 
of Cotton and Flax, Flax-Cotton and Wool, are excellent 
and serviceable fabrics. 

The main question still remains to be considered — will 
it pay ? Flax may be grown almost anywhere — two or 
three crops a year of it in some climates — a crop of it 
equal to three times the present annual product of Cotton, 
Flax and Wool all combined could easily be produced 
even next year. But unless cheaper fabrics, all things 
considered, can be. produced from Flax-Cotton than from 
the Mississippi staple, this fact is of little worth. On this 
vital point I must of course rely on testimony, and M. 
Claussen's is as follows : 

He says the Flax-straw, or the ripe, dry plant as it comes 
from the field, with the seed taken off, may be grown even 



FLAX-COTTON. 109 

here for $10 per tun, but he will concede its cost for the 
present to be #15 per tun, delivered, as it is necessary that 
liberal inducements shall be given for its extensive cultiva- 
tion. Six tuns of the straw or flax in the bundle will 
yield one tun of dressed and clean fiber, the cost of dressing 
which by his methods, so as to make it Flax Cotton, is $35 
per tun. (Our superior Western machinery ought con- 
siderably to reduce this.) The total cost of the Flax-Cot- 
ton, therefore, will be 8125 per tun or six cents per pound, 
while Flax-straw as it comes from the field is worth $15 
per tun; should this come down to $10 per tun, the cost 
of the fiber will be reduced to $95 per tun, or less than 
five cents per pound. At that rate, good "field-hands" 
must be rather slow of sale for Cotton-planting at $1,000 
each, or even $700. 

Is there any doubt that Flax-straw may be profitably 
grown in the United States for $15 or even $10 per tun ? 
Consider that Flax has been extensively grown for years, 
even in our own State, for the seed only, the straw being 
thrown out to rot and being a positive nuisance to the 
grower. Now the seed is morally certain to command, 
for two or three years at least, a higher price than hitherto, 
because of the increased growth and extended use of the 
fiber. Let no farmer who has Flax growing be tempted 
to sell the seed by contract or otherwise for the present ; 
let none be given over to the tender mercies of oil-mills. 
We shall need all that is grown this year for sowing next 
Spring, and it is morally certain to bear a high price even 
this Fall. The sagacious should caution their less watch- 
ful neighbors on this point. I shall be disappointed if a 
bushel of Flax-seed be not worth two bushels of Wheat in 
most parts of our Country next May. 

Our ensuing Agricultural Fairs, State and local, should 
be improved for the diffusion of knowledge and the attain- 
ment of concert and mutual understanding with regard to 
the Flax-Culture. For the present, at any rate, few 

6 



110 GLANCES AT EUROPE. 

farmers can aiFord or will choose to incur the expense of 
the heavy machinery required to break and roughly dress 
their flax, so as to divest it of four-fifths of its bulk and 
leave the fiber in a state for easy transportation to the 
central points at which Flax-Cotton machinery may be put 
in operation. If the Flax-straw has to be hauled fifty or 
sixty miles over country roads to find a purchaser or 
breaking-machine, the cost of such transportation will 
nearly eat up the proceeds. If the farmers of any town- 
ship can be assured beforehand that suitable machinery 
will next Summer be put up within a few miles of them, 
and a market there created for their Flax, its growth will 
be greatly extended. And if intelligent, energetic, respon- 
sible men will now turn their thoughts toward the procuring 
and setting up of the best Flax-breaking machinery (not 
for fully dressing but merely for separating the fibre from 
the bulk of the woody substance it incloses) they may 
proceed to make contracts with their neighboring farmers 
for Flax-straw to be delivered in the Autumn of next year 
on terms highly advantageous to both parties. The Flax 
thus roughly dressed may be transported even a hundred 
miles to market at a moderate cost, and there can be no 
reasonable doubt of its commanding a good price. M. 
Claussen assures me that he could now buy and profitably 
use almost any quantity of such Flax if it were to be had. 
The only reason (he says) why there are not now any 
number of spindles and looms running on Flax-Cotton is 
the want of the raw material. (His patent is hardly yet 
three months old.) Taking dressed and hetcheled Flax, 
worth seven to nine cents per pound, and transforming it 
into Flax-Cotton while Cotton is no higher than at present; 
would not pay. 

Of course, there will be disappointments, mistakes, un- 
foreseen difficulties, disasters, in Flax-growing and the 
consequent fabrications hereafter as heretofore. I do not 
presume that every man who now rushes into Flax will 



FLAX-COTTON. Ill 

make his fortune ; I presume many will incur losses. I 
counsel and urge the fullest inquiry, the most careful 
calculations, preliminary to any decisive action. But that 
such inquiry will lead to very extensive Flax-sowing next 
year, — to the erection of Flax-breaking machinery at a 
thousand points where none such have ever yet existed — 
and ultimately to the firm establishment of new and most 
important branches of industry, I cannot doubt. Our own 
country is better situated than any other to take the lead 
in the Flax-business ; her abundance of cheap, fertile soil 
and of cheap seed, the intelligence of her producers, the 
general diffusion of water or steam power, and our present 
superiority in Flax-breaking machinery, all point to this 
result. It will be unfortunate alike for our credit and our 
prosperity if we indolently or heedlessly suffer other nations 
to take the lead in it. 

P. S. — M. Claussen has also a Circular Loom in the 
Exhibition, wherein Bagging, Hosiery, &c, may be woven 
without a seam or anything like one. This loom may be 
operated by a very light hand-power (of course, steam or 
water is cheaper), and it does its work rapidly and fault- 
lessly. I mention this only as proof of his inventive 
genius, and to corroborate the favorable impression he 
made on me. I have seen nothing more ingenious in the 
immense department devoted to British Machinery than 
this loom. 

I understand that overtures have been made to M. 
Claussen for the purchase of his American patent, but as 
yet without definite result. This, however, is not material. 
Whether the patent is sold or held, there will next year be 
parties ready to buy roughly dressed Flax to work up 
under it, and it is preparation to grow such Flax that I am 
urging. I believe nothing more important or more 
auspicious to our Farming Interest has occurred for years 
than this discovery by M. Claussen. He made it in Brazil, 
while engaged in the growth of Cotton. It will not super- 



112 GLANCES AT EUROPE. 

sede Cotton, but it will render it no longer indispensable 
by providing a substitute equally cheap, equally service- 
able, and which may be grown almost everywhere. This 
cannot be realized too soon. 



XIII. 
LEAVING THE EXHIBITION. 

London, Friday, June 6, 1851. 

The great " Exposition " (as the French more accurate- 
ly term it) has now been more than five weeks open, and 
is nearly complete. You may wander for miles through 
its richly fringed avenues without hearing the sound of 
saw or hammer, except in the space allotted to Russia, 
which is now boarded up on all sides, and in which some 
twenty or thirty men are at work erecting stands, unpack- 
ing and arranging fabrics, &c. I visited it yesterday, and 
inferred that the work is pushed night and day, since a 
part of the workmen were asleep (under canvas) at 2 
o'clock. This apartment promises to be most attractive 
when opened to the public. Its contents will not be 
numerous, but among them are very large and showy 
manufactures of Porcelain, Bronze, &c, and tables of the 
finest Malachite, a single piece weighing (I think) nearly 
or quite half a tun. Not half the wares are yet displayed, 
but " Russia " will be the center of attraction for some 
days after it is thrown open. 

The Exhibition has become a steady, business-like 
concern. The four " shilling days " of each week are 
improved and enjoyed by the common people, who quietly 
put to shame the speculation of the Aristocratic oracles as 
to their probable behavior in such a magazine of wealth 
and splendor — whether they might not make a general 
rush on the precious stones, plate and other valuables here 



114 GLANCES AT EUROPE. 

staring them in the face, with often but a single policeman 
in sight — whether they might not refuse to leave at the 
hour of closing, &c, &c. The gates are surrounded a 
little before ten in the morning by a gathering, deepening 
crowd, but all friendly and peaceable ; and when they 
open at the stroke of the clock, a dense column pours 
in through each aperture, each paying his shilling as he 
passes (no tickets being used and no change given — 
the holders of season, jurors' and exhibitors' tickets have 
separate entrances), and all proceeding as smoothly as 
swiftly. Within half an hour, ten thousand shillings will 
have thus been taken : within the next hour, ten thousand 
more; thence the admissions fall off; but the number 
ranges pretty regularly from Forty to Fifty Thousand per 
day, making the daily receipts from $10,000 to $12,000. 
Yesterday was a great Race Day at Ascot, attended by 
the Queen and Royal Family, as also by most of the 
habitual idlers, with a multitude beside (and a miserably 
raw, rainy, chilly day they had of it, with very poor 
racing), yet I should say that the attendance at the Exhi- 
bition was greater than ever before. Certainly not less 
than fifty thousand shillings, or $12,000, can have been 
taken. For hours, the Grand Avenue, which is nearly or 
quite half a mile long and at least thirty feet wide, was so 
filled with the moving mass that no vacant spaces could be 
seen from any position commanding an extensive prospect, 
though small ones were occasionally discoverable while 
threading the mazes of the throng. The visiters were 
constantly turning off into one or another department 
according to their several tastes ; but their places were as 
constantly supplied either by new-comers or by those who, 
having completed their examinations in one department, 
were hastening to another, or looking for one especially 
attractive. Turn into whatever corner you might, there 
were clusters of deeply interested gazers, intent on making 
the most of their day and their shilling, while in the 



LEAVING THE EXHIBITION. 115 

quieter nooks from 1 to 3 o'clock might be seen families or 
parties eating the lunch which, with a prophetic foresight 
of the miserable quality and exorbitant price of the viands 
served to you in the spacious Refreshment Saloons, they 
had wisely brought from home. But these saloons were 
also crowded from an early to a late hour, as they are almost 
every day, and I presume the concern which paid a high 
price for the exclusive privilege of ministering to the 
physical appetites within the Crystal Palace will make 
a fortune by it, though the interdiction of Wines and 
Liquors must prove a serious drawback. It must try the 
patience of some of the visiters to do without their beer 
or ale from morning to night ; and if you leave the build- 
ing on any pretext, your shilling is gone. Every actual 
need of the day is provided for inside, even to the washing 
of face and hands (price 2d.). But Night falls, and the 
gigantic hive is deserted and closed, leaving its fairy halls, 
its infinite wealth, its wondrous achievements, whether of 
Nature or of Art, to darkness and silence. Of course, a 
watch is kept, and, under pressing and peculiar circum- 
stances, work has been permitted ; but the treasures here 
collected must be guarded with scrupulous vigilance. If 
a fire should consume the Crystal Palace, the inevitable 
loss must exceed One Hundred Millions of Dollars, even 
supposing that a few of the most precious articles should 
be snatched from the swift destruction. Ten minutes 
without wind, or five with it, would suffice to wrap 
the whole immense magazine in flames, and not a hun- 
dredth part of the value of building and contents would 
remain at the close of another hour. 

POPULAR EDUCATION. 

The Exhibition is destined to contribute immensely to 
the Industrial and Practical Education of the British Peo- 
ple. The cheap Excursion Trains from the Country hava 



116 GLANCES AT EUROPE. 

hardly commenced running yet ; but it is certain that a 
large proportion of the mechanics, artisans and appren- 
tices of the manufacturing towns and districts will spend 
one or two days each in the Palace before it closes. 
Superficial as such a view of its contents must be, it will 
have important results. Each artisan will naturally*be led 
to compare the products of his own trade with those in 
the same line from other Nations, especially the most suc- 
cessful, and will be stimulated to discern and master the 
point wherein his own and his neighbor's efforts have 
hitherto comparatively failed. Of a million who come to 
gaze, only an hundred thousand may come with any clear 
idea of profiting by the show, and but half of those suc- 
ceed in carrying back more wisdom than they brought 
here ; yet even those are quite an army; and fifty thousand 
skilled artisans or sharp-eyed apprentices viewing such an 
Exposition aright and going home to ponder and dream 
upon it, cannot fail of working out great triumphs. The 
British mind is more fertile in improvement than in ab- 
solute invention, as is here demonstrated, especially in the 
department of Machinery ; and the simple adaptation of 
the forces now attained, the principles established, the 
machines already invented, to all the beneficent uses of 
which they are capable, would speedily transform the In- 
dustrial and Social condition of mankind. I am perfectly 
satisfied, for example, that Boots and Shoes may be cut 
out and made up by machinery with less than one-fourth 
the labor now required — that this would require no abso- 
lutely new inventions, but only an adaptation of those 
already well known. So in other departments of Industry. 
There is no reason for continuing to sew plain seams on 
thick cloth by hand, when machinery can do the work 
even better and twenty times as fast. I shall be disap- 
pointed if this Exhibition be not speedily followed by im- 
mense advances in Labor-Saving Machinery, especially in 
this country. 



POPULAR EDUCATION. 117 

But out of the domain of Industry, British Progress in 
Popular Education is halting and partial. And the chief 
obstacle is not a want of means, nor even niggardliness ; 
for the Nation is wealthy, sagacious and public-spirited. I 
think the influential classes generally, or at least very ex- 
tensively, realize that a well managed system of Common 
Schools, supported by taxation on Property, would save 
more in diminishing the burthen of Pauperism than it 
would cost. I believe the Ministry feel this. And yet 
Mr. Fox's motion looking to such a system was voted 
down in the House of Commons by some three to one, 
the Ministry and their reliable supporters vieing with 
the Tories in opposing it ! So the Nation is thrown 
back on the wretched shift of Voluntaryism, or Instruction 
for the poor and ignorant children to be provided, directed 
and paid for by their poor, ignorant and often vicious 
parents, with such help and guidance as self-constituted 
casual associations may see fit to give them. The result 
is and will be what it ever has been and must be — the 
virtual denial of Education to a great share of the rising 
generation. 

For this suicidal crime, I hold the Episcopal and Roman 
Catholic Priesthoods mainly responsible, but especially 
the former. If they would only stand out of the way, a 
system of efficient Common Schools for the whole Nation 
might be speedily established. But they will not permit it. 
By insisting that no Nationally directed and supported 
system shall be put in operation w 7 hich does not recognize 
and affirm the tenets of their respective creeds, they ren- 
der the adoption of any such system impossible. They 
see this ; they know it ; they mean it. And nothing moves 
me to indignation quicker than their stereotyped cant of 
"Godless education," "teaching infidelity," "knowledge 
worthless or dangerous without Religion," &c. &c. Why, 
Sirs, it is very true that the People need Religious as well 
as purely Intellectual culture, but the former has been 

6* 



118 GLANCES AT EUROPE. 

already provided for. You clergymen of the Established 
Church have been richly endowed and beneficed expressly 
for this work — why don't you no it ? Why do you stand 
here darkening and stopping the gateway of secular in- 
struction with a self-condemning assumption that your own 
duties have been and are criminally neglected, and that 
therefore others shall likewise remain unperformed ? 
Teach the children as much Religion as you can; very 
few of you ever lack pupils when you give your hearts to 
the work ; and if they prove less apt or less capable learn- 
ers because they have been taught reading, writing, gram- 
mar, geography and arithmetic in secular schools, it argues 
some defect in your theology or its teachers. If you really 
wanted the children taught Religious truth, you would be 
right glad to have them taught letters and other rudimen- 
tal lessons elsewhere, so as to be fitted to apprehend and 
retain your inculcations. It should suffice for the con- 
demnation of all Established Churches ever more, that the 
State-paid Priesthood of Great Britain is to-day the chief 
impediment to a system of Common Schools throughout 
the British Isles. 

The Catholic Clergy have more excuse. They, too, 
unite in the impracticable requirement that the dogmas of 
their Church shall be taught in the schools attended by 
Catholic children, when they ought to teach them these 
dogmas out of School-hours, and be content that no an- 
tagonist dogmas are taught in the secular Schools. But 
they receive nothing from the State, and have good reason 
to regard it as hostile to their faith, therefore to suspect 
its purposes and watch narrowly its movements. If they 
would only take care to have a good system of Common 
School Education established and efficiently sustained in 
Spain, Portugal, Italy, Mexico, and other Countries where- 
in they are the conscience-keepers of the great majority 
and practically omnipotent in the sphere of moral and 
social effort, i could better excuse their unfortunate atti- 



TOWN GOSSIP. 119 

tude here. As it is, the difference between them and 
their State-paid rivals here seems one of position rather 
than of principle. And, in spite of either or both, this 
generation will yet see Common Schools free and univer- 
sal throughout this realm. But even a year seems long to 
wait for it. 

TOWN GOSSIP. 

Preparations are on foot for a grand banquet at Bir- 
mingham to the Royal Commissioners, the Foreign Com- 
missioners and the Jurors at the Exhibition, to take place 
on or about the 16th. This is to be followed by one still 
more magnificent given by the Mayor and Council of 
London, which the Queen is expected to attend. The 
East India Company give one to-morrow evening, but I 
hope then to be in France, as I intend to leave for Paris to- 
morrow. The advertisements promise to put us " through 
in eleven hours" by the quickest and dearest route. Others 
take twice as many. 

Miss Catharine Hayes, a Vocalist of European reputa- 
tion, who sang the last winter mainly in Rome, means to 
visit America in September. She is here ranked very high 
in her profession, and profoundly esteemed and respected 
in private life. I have heard her but once, having had but 
two evenings' leisure for public entertainments since I 
came here. There is but one Jenny Lind, but Miss Hayes 
need not shrink from a comparison with any other singer. 
She is very highly commended by the best Musical critics 
of London. I cannot doubt that America will ratify their 
judgment. 

We have had tolerably fair, pleasant weather for some 
time until the last two days, when clouds, chilly winds and 
occasional rain have returned. The " oldest inhabitant" 
don't remember just such weather at this season — as he 
probably observed last June. I shall gladly leave it for 
dryer air and brighter skies. 



XIV. 
LONDON TO PARIS. 

Paris, Monday, June 9, 1B51. 
I left London Bridge at 11^ on Saturday for this City, 
via South-Eastern Railway to Dover, Steamboat to Calais 
and Railroad again to Paris. This is the dearest and 
quickest route between the two capitals, and its advertise- 
ments promised for $13| to take us "Through in Eleven 
Hours," which was a lie, as is quite usual with such 
promises. We came on quite rapidly to Dover — a very 
mean, old town — but there lost about an hour in the 
transfer of our baggage to the steamboat, which was one 
of those long, black, narrow scow contrivances, about 
equal to a buttonwood " dug-out," which England appears 
to delight in. They would not be tolerated as ferry-boats 
on any of our Western rivers, yet they are made to 
answer for the conveyance of Mails and Passengers across 
an arm of the sea on the most important route in Europe. 
In this wretched concern, which was too insignificant to 
be slow, we went cobbling and wriggling across the Chan- 
nel (27 miles) in something less than two hours, often one 
gunwale nearly under water and the other ten or twelve 
feet above it, with no room under deck for half our 
passengers, and the spray frequently dashing over those 
above it, three fourths of the whole number deadly sick 
(this individual of course included), when with a decent 
boat the passage might be regularly made, in spite of such 
a smartish breeze as we encountered, in comparative com- 



LONDON TO PARIS. 121 

fort. Perhaps we felt glad enough on reaching the shore 
to pay for this needless misery, and I readily believe that 
an hour or two of sea-sickness may be harshly wholesome, 
yet I do think that a good boat on such a route might well 
be afforded and cannot reputably be withheld. That part 
of England through which we passed on this route is much 
like that I have already described on the other side of 
London. The face of the country is very moderately 
undulating ; there is a fair proportion of trees and shrub- 
bery, though no considerable forest that I noticed ; 
perhaps an eighth of the land may be sowed with Wheat, 
but Grass is the general staple. I should say three fourths 
of all the land in sight from this railway is covered with 
it, while very little is planted or devoted to gardening after 
the few miles next to London. Hops engross considerable 
attention, and I presume pay well, being demanded by the 
national addiction to beer drinking. Still, Grass, Cattle 
and Sheep are the Staples ; and these require so much 
less human labor per acre than Grain and Vegetables that 
I cannot see how the rural, laboring population can find 
adequate employment or subsistence. It looks as though 
the gradual substitution of Grass for Grain since the repeal 
of the Corn-laws must deprive a large portion of the best 
British peasantry of work, compelling them to emigrate to 
America or Australia for a subsistence. Such emigration 
is already very active, and must increase if the present 
low prices of BreadstufFs prove permanent. 

I was again disappointed in seeing so little attention to 
Fruit Culture. I know this is not the Fruit region of 
England, but the destitution of fruit trees is quite 
universal. Since it is plain that an acre of choice Apple 
trees will yield at least a hundred bushels of palatable food, 
with little labor, and grass enough beside to pay for all the 
care it requires, I cannot see why Fruit is so neglected. 
The Peach, I hear, does poorly throughout the kingdoms, 
requiring extra shelter and sunshine, yet yielding indifferent 



122 GLANCES AT EUROPE. 

fruit in return, which is reason enough for neglecting it ; 
but the Apple is hardier, and does well in other localities no 
more genial than this. I think it has been unwisely slighted. 

An important and profitable business, I think, might be 
built up in our country in the production of Dried Fruits, 
especially Peaches, and their exportation to Europe, or at 
any rate to England. I was among those who "sat at 
good men's feasts," both rich and poor (the men, not the 
feasts), during the six weeks I was m England, yet I can- 
not remember that Dried Apples or Peaches were ever an 
element of the repast, though Gooseberries, Rhubarb, Rai- 
sins, Currants, &c, are abundantly resorted to. If some 
American of adequate capital and capacity would embark 
in the growth and curing of Apples, Peaches, &c, expressly 
for the English market, drying them perfectly, preparing 
them with scrupulous neatness, and putting them up in 
clean wooden boxes of twenty-five, fifty and one hundred 
pounds, I think he might do well by it. For such a pur- 
pose, cheap lands and cheap labor (that of aged persons 
and young children) might be made available, while in 
years of bountiful Peach harvests, like the last, even New- 
Jersey and Delaware could be drawn upon for an extra 
supply. The miscellaneous exportation of any Dried 
Fruits that might happen to be on the market would pro- 
bably involve loss, because time and expenditure are 
required to make these products known to the great 
majority of British consumers, and assure them that the 
article offered them has been prepared with scrupulous 
cleanliness. With proper exertion and outlay, I believe 
an advantageous market might thus be opened for several 
Millions' worth of American products of which little or 
nothing is now known in Europe. 

We were detained a long hour in Calais — a queer old 
town, with little trade and only a historical importance — 
although our baggage was not examined there, but sealed 
up fo} custom-house scrutiny at Paris. They made a few 



LONDON TO PARIS. 123 

dollars out of us by charging for extra baggage, one of 
them out of me, though my trunk contained only clothing 
and three or four books. Small business this for a Rail- 
road, though it will do in stage transportation. Our pass- 
ports were scrutinized — mine not very thoroughly — we 
(the green ones) obtained an execrable dinner for 37j 
cents, and changed some sovereigns for French silver at 
a shave which was not atrocious. Finally, we were all 
let go. 

The face of the country inland from Calais is flat and 
marshy — more like Holland, as we conceive it, than like 
England or France. Of course, the railroad avoids the 
higher ground, but I did not see a cliff nor steep acclivity 
until darkness closed us in, though some moderate hills 
were visible from time to time, mainly on the right. Here, 
too, as across the Channel, Grass largely predominated, 
but I think there was a greater breadth of Wheat. I saw 
very few Fruit-trees, though much more growing Timber 
than I had expected, from the representations I had read 
of the treeless nakedness of the French soil. I think trees 
are as abundant for fifty miles southward from Calais as 
in any part of England, but they are mainly Elms and 
Willows, scarcely an orchard anywhere, and of course no 
vineyards, for the Grape loves a more Southern sun. The 
cultivation is scarcely equal to the English, though not 
strikingly inferior, and the evidences of a minute sub- 
division of the soil are often palpable. Fences are very 
rare, save along the sides of the railway ; ditches serve 
their purpose near Calais, and nothing at all answers after- 
ward. I presume wood becomes much scarcer as we 
approach Paris, but darkness forbade observation. 

By the terms of the enticing advertisement, we should 
have been here at 10| P. M., but, though we met with 
none other than the ordinary detentions, it was half-past 
two on Sunday morning when we actually reached the 
station at the barrier of the city. Here commenced the 



124 GLANCES AT EUROPE. 

custom-house search, and I must say it was conducted 
with perfect propriety and commendable energy, though 
with determined rigor. Our trunks and valises were all 
arranged on a long table according to the numbers affixed 
to them respectively at Calais, and each, being opened 
by its owner, was searched in its turn, and immediately 
surrendered, if found " all right." I had been required to pay 
smartly on my books at Liverpool, though nobody could 
have suspected that they were for any other than my own 
use ; so I left most of them at London and had no difficulty 
here. [One unlucky wight, who had pieces of linen in his 
trunk, had to see them taken out and put safely away for 
farther consideration.] I did not at first comprehend that 
the number on my trunk, standing out fair before me in 
honest, unequivocal Arabic figures, could possibly mean 
anything but " fifty- two," but a friend cautioned me in 
season that those figures spelled " cinquante-deux," or 
phonetically " sank-cn-du" to the officer, and I made my 
first attempt at mouthing French accordingly, and suc- 
ceeded in making myself intelligible. 

It was fair daylight when we left the railway station for 
our various destinations. Mine was the " Hotel Choiseul," 
Rue St. Honore, which had been warmly commended to 
me, and where I managed to stop pro tern, though there 
was not an unoccupied bed in the house. Paris, by the 
way, is quite full — scarcely a room to be had in any popular 
hotel, and, where any is to be found, the price is very high 
or the accommodations quite humble. London, on the 
contrary, where the keepers of hotels and lodging-houses 
had been induced to expect a grand crush, and had aggra- 
vated their prices accordingly, is comparatively empty. 
Thousands after thousands go there, but few remain for 
any time ; consequently the hotels make what money is 
spent, while the boarding and lodging-houses are often 
tenantless. Many sharp landladies have driven away their 
old lodgers to the Country or the Continent by exorbitant 



THE MADELEINE. 125 

charges, in the hope of extorting many times as much 
from visiters to the Exhibition ; and have thus far been 
bitterly disappointed. I presume it will be so to the end. 
Sixty thousand people are as many as the Crystal Palace 
will comfortably hold, in addition to its wares and their 
attendants, and these make no impression on the vast 
capacity of London, while they go away as soon as they 
have satisfied their curiosity and ceased to attend the Fair, 
giving place to others, who require no more room than 
they did. I suspect theirs are not the only calculations 
which will be disappointed by the ultimate issues of the 
World's Exhibition. 

THE MADELEINE. 

My first day in Paris was Sunday, so, after breakfast, I 
repaired to the famous modern Church of the Madeleine, 
reputed one of the finest in Europe. This was the day of 
Pentecost, and fitly commemorated by the Church. The 
spacious edifice was filled in every part, though at least a 
thousand went out at the close of the earlier service, before 
the attendance was fullest. 

I was never before in a place of worship so gorgeous 
as this. Over the main altar there is a magnificent picture 
on the largest scale, purporting to represent the Progress 
of Civilization from Christ's day to Bonaparte's, Napoleon 
being the central figure in the foreground, while the Savi- 
our and the Virgin Mary occupy a similar position in the 
rear. In every part, the Church is very richly and I pre- 
sume tastefully ornamented. 

I did not comprehend the service, and cannot intelligibly 
describe it. The bowings and genuflexions, the swinging 
of censers and ringing of bells, the frequent appearance 
and disappearance of a band of gorgeously dressed priests 
or assistants bearing what looked like spears, were " inex- 
plicable dumb show" to me, and most of them unlike any- 



126 GLANCES AT EUROPE. 

thing I remember to have seen in American Catholic 
Churches. The music was generally fine, especially that 
of a chorus of young boys, and the general bearing of the 
people in attendance, that of reverence and interest. 

' " Peace be with all, whate'er their varying creeds, 
With all who send up holy thoughts on high." 

But I could not bring myself to like the continual circu- 
lation of several officials throughout almost the entire 
service, collecting rents for seats (they were let very cheap), 
and begging money for " the Poor of the Church ;" as a 
stout, gross, absurdly overdressed herald who preceded the 
collectors loudly proclaimed. I think this collection should 
have been taken before or after the Mass. There was no 
sermon up to one o'clock, when I left, with nearly all the 
audience, though there may have been one afterward. 



XV. 

THE FUTURE OF FRANCE. 

Paris, Wednesday, June 11, 1851. 

" Will the French Republic withstand the assaults of 
its enemies?" is a question of primary importance with 
regard to the Political Future, not of France only but of 
Europe, and more remotely of the world. Even fettered 
and stifled as the Republic now is — a shorn and blind 
Samson in the toils of the Philistines — it is still a potent 
fact, and its very name is a " word of fear" to the grand 
conspiracy of despots and owls who are intent on pushing 
Europe back at the point of the bayonet into the debase- 
ment and thick darkness of the Feudal Ages. It is the 
French Republic which disturbs with nightmare visions 
the slumbers of the Russian Autocrat, and urges him to 
summon convocations of his vassal-Kings at Olmutz and 
at Warsaw, — it is the overthrow of the French Republic, 
whether by open assault or by sinister stratagem, which 
engrosses the attention of those and kindred convocations 
throughout Europe. (i Put out the light, and then put out 
the light," is the general aspiration ; and the fact that the 
actual Republic is reasonably moderate, peaceful, unag- 
gressive, so far from disarming their hostility, only inflames 
it. Ham an can never feel safe in his exaltation so long 
as Mordecai the Jew is seen sitting at the king's gate; 
and if France is to be a Republic, the Royalties and 
Aristocracies of Europe would far sooner see her bloody, 



128 GLANCES AT EUROPE. 

turbulent, desolating and intent on conquest than tranquil 
and inoffensive. A Republic absolutely ruled by Danton, 
Marat and Robespierre would be far less appalling in the 
eyes of the Privileged, Luxurious and Idle Classes of Europe 
than one peacefully pursuing its career under the guidance 
of Cavaignac, De Tocqueville or Lamartine. 

While in England, I could not but smile at the delusions 
propagated by the Press and readily credited as well as 
diffused by the fortunate classes with regard to the deplo- 
rable condition of France and the absolute necessity ex- 
isting for some radical change in her Government. " O 
yes, you get along very well with a Republic in the United 
States, where you had cheap lands, a vast and fertile wil- 
derness, common schools and a general reverence for Re- 
ligion and Order to begin with ; but just look at France !" 
— such was and is a very general line of argument. If the 
French had been equally divisible into felons, bankrupts, 
paupers and lunatics, their hopeless state could hardly have 
been referred to more compassionately. All this time 
France wa's substantially as tranquil as England herself, 
and decidedly more prosperous, though annoyed and im- 
peded by the incessant plottings of traitors in her councils 
and other exalted stations to resubject her to kingly sway. 
A thrifty, provident, frugal artisan may often seem less 
wealthy and prosperous than his dashing, squandering, 
lavish neighbor. France may not display so much plate 
on the sideboards of her landlords and bankers as England 
does ; but every day adds to her ability to display it. 
While Great Britain and the United States have under- 
taken to vie with each other in Free Trade. France holds 
fast to the principle of Protection, with scarcely a division 
in her Councils on the subject ; and she is consequently 
amassing in silence the wealth created by other Nations. 
The Californian digs gold, which mainly comes to New- 
York in payment for goods ; but on that gold England has 
a mortgage running fast to maturity, for the goods were in 



THE FUTURE OF FRANCE. 129 

part bought of her and we owe her for Millions' worth be- 
side. But France has a similar mortgage on it for the 
Grain supplied to England to feed the fabricators of the 
goods, and it has hardly reached the Bank of England be- 
fore it is on its w r ay to Paris. A great share of the golden 
harvests of the tributaries of the Sacramento and San Joa- 
quin now find their resting-place here. 

" But what," asks a Say-Bastiat economist, " if they do ? 
Is n't all Commerce an exchange of equivalents ? Must 
we not buy in order to sell ? Isn't Gold a commodity like 
any other ? If our Imports exceed our Exports, doesn't 
that prove that we are obtaining more for our Exports than 
their estimated value ?" &c. &c. &c. 

No, Sir ! commerce is not always an exchange of genu- 
ine equivalents. The savage tribe which sells its hunting 
grounds and its ancestors' graves for a few barrels of fire- 
water, whereby its members are debauched, diseased, ren- 
dered insanely furious, and set to cutting each other's 
throats, receives no real equivalent for what it parts with. 
Nor is it well for ever so civilized a people to be selling 
its Specie and mortgaging its Lands and Houses for Silks, 
Liquors, Laces, Wines, Spices, &c. — trading off* the essen- 
tial and imperishable for the factitious and transitory — 
and so eating itself out of house and home. The farmer 
who drinks up his farm at the cross-roads tavern may 
have obtained " more for his exports" (of produce from his 
farm), than they were worth in the market — at least, it 
would seem so from the fact that he has run over head 
and ears in debt — but he has certainly done a pernicious, 
a losing business. So does any Nation which buys more 
wares and fabrics than its exports will pay for, and finds 
itself in debt at the year's end for imports that it has 
eaten, drunk or worn out. The thrifty household is the 
true model of the Nation. And, thus tested, France, in 
spite of her enormous, locust-like Army and other relics of 
past follies which the National mind is outgrowing though 



130 GLANCES AT EUROPE. 

the Nation's rulers still cling to them, is this day one of 
the most prosperous countries on earth. 

But when I hear the aristocratic plotters talk of the 
necessity of a Revision of the Constitution in order to 
restore to France tranquillity and prosperity, I am moved 
not to mirth but to indignation. For these plotters and 
their schemes are themselves the causes of the mischiefs 
they affect to deplore and the dangers they pretend to be 
bent on averting. Whatever is now feverish and ominous 
in French Politics grows directly out of two great wrongs 
— the first positive and accomplished — the law of the 31st 
May, whereby Three Millions of Electors were disfran- 
chised — the other contingent and meditated — the over- 
throw of the Republic. All the agitation, the apprehension, 
the uncertainty, and the consequent derangement of Indus- 
try, through the last year, have grown out of these mis- 
deeds, done and purposed, of the Aristocratic party. In 
the sacred name of Order, they have fomented discord and 
anarchy ; invoking Peace, they have stirred up hatred and 
bitterness. Whatever the Social Democracy might have 
done, had they been in the ascendant or under other 
supposable circumstances, the fact is that theirs has been 
actually the cause of Order, of Conservatism, of Tran- 
quillity and the Constitution. Had they proved recreant 
to their faith and trust, France would ere this have been 
plunged into convulsions through the mutual jealousies 
and hostilities of the factions who vaunt themselves collec- 
tively the party of Order ; they have been withheld from 
cutting each other's throats by the calm, determined, 
watchful, intrepid attitude of the calumniated Democracy. 

The law of the 31st May still stands on the statute-book, 
and I apprehend is destined to remain (though many who 
are better informed are sanguine that it will be repealed 
before the next Presidential Election), but the Republic 
will endure and its Constitution cannot be overthrown. 
All the Bourbonists, Orleanists, and Bonapartists in the 



THE FUTURE OF FRANCE. 131 

Assembly combined are insufficient to change the Consti- 
tution legally ; and if a bare majority sufficed for that 
purpose (instead of three-fourths), they could not to-day 
command a working majority for any practical measure 
of Revision. It is easy to club their votes and vaguely 
declare some change necessary — but what change ? A 
Bourbon Restoration ? An Orleans Middle-Class Royalty ? 
A Napoleonic Empire ? For no one of these can a majority 
even of this Reactionist Assembly be obtained. What, 
then, ^s their chance with the People ? 

As to the signing of Petitions for Revision, that is easily 
understood. The Prefect, the Mayor, &c, of a locality 
readily procure the signatures of all the Government 
employes and hangers-on, who constitute an immense 
army in France ; the great manufacturers circulate the 
petitions among their workmen, and most of them sign, 
not choosing to risk their masters' displeasure for a mere 
name more or less to an unmeaning paper. But the plotters 
know perfectly well that the People are not for Revision 
in their sense of the word ; if they did not fear this, they 
would restore Universal Suffrage. By clinging with 
desperate tenacity to the Restrictive law of May 31st, 
they virtually confess that their hopes of success involve 
the continued exclusion of Three Millions of adult French- 
men from the Registry of Voters. When they prate, 
therefore, of the People's desire for Revision, the Republi- 
can retort is ready and conclusive—" Repeal the law of 
May 31st, and we can then tell what the People really 
desire. But so long as you maintain that law T , you confess 
that you dare not abide the verdict of the whole People. 
You appeal to a Jury which you have packed — one whose 
right to try this question we utterly deny. Restore Uni- 
versal Suffrage, and we can then tell what the People 
really do wish and demand ; but until you do this, we 
shall resist every attempt to change the Constitution even 
by so much as a hair." Who can doubt that this is right ? 



132 GLANCES AT EUROPE. 

" Therefore, Representatives of the People, deliberate in 
peace," pithily says Changarnier, after proving to his own 
satisfaction that the army will not level their arms against 
the Assembly in support of a Napoleonic usurpation. So 
the friends of Republican France throughout the world 
may give thanks and take courage. The darkness is dis- 
persing ; the skies of the future are red with the coming 
day. Time is on the popular side, and every hour's endur- 
ance adds strength to the Republic. It cannot be legally 
subverted ; and should Force and Usurpation be attempted, 
its champions will not shrink from the encounter nor dread 
the issue. For well they know that the mind and heart 
of the People are on their side — that the French who earn 
their bread and are not ashamed to be seen shouldering 
a musket, so far as they have any opinion at all, are all for 
the Republic — that France comprises a Bonapartist clique, 
an Orleanist class, a Royalist party, and a Republican 
Nation. The clique is composed of the personal intimates 
of Louis Napoleon and certain Military officers, mainly 
relics of the Empire ; the class includes a good part of the 
lucky Parisian shop-keepers and Government employes 
during the reign of Louis Philippe ; the party embraces 
the remnants of the anti-Revolutionary Aristocracy, most 
of the influential Priesthood, and a small section of the 
rural Peasantry ; all these combined may number Four 
Millions, leaving Thirty Millions for the Nation. Such is 
France in 1851 ; and, being such, the subversion of the 
Republic, whether by foreign assault or domestic treason, 
is hardly possible. An open attack by the Autocrat and 
his minions would certainly consolidate it ; a prolongation 
of Louis Napoleon's power (no longer probable) would 
have the same effect. Four years more of tranquil though 
nominal Republicanism would only render a return to 
Monarchy more difficult ; wherefore the Royalist party 
will never assent to it, and without their aid the project 
has no chance. To obtain that aid, " the Prince" must 



THE FUTURE OF FRANCE. 133 

secretly swear that after four years more he will turn 
France over to Henry V. ; this promise only the last 
extreme of desperation could extort from him, and then to 
no purpose, since he could not fulfill it and the Legitimists 
could not trust him. And thus, alike by its own strength 
and by its enemies' divisions, the safety of the Republic 
is assured. 



XVI. 
PARIS, SOCIAL AND MORAL. 

Paris, Thursday, June 12, 1851. 
A great Capital like this is not seen in a few days ; I 
have not yet seen a quarter of it. The general magnitude 
of the houses (usually built around a small quadrangular 
court near the street, whence the court is entered by a 
gate or arched passage) is readily remarked ; also the 
minute subdivisions of Shop-keeping, many if not most 
sellers confining their attention to a single fabric, so that 
their " stores " and stocks of goods are small ; also, the 
general gregariousness or social aptitudes of the people. 
I lodge in a house once famous as " Frascati's," the most 
celebrated gaming-house in Europe ; it stands on the 
corner of the Rue Richelieu with the Boulevards 
( " Italian " in one direction and " Montmartre " in the 
other). My windows overlook the Boulevards for a con- 
siderable distance ; and there are many of the most 
fashionable shops, " restaurants," " cafe\s," &c. in the city. 
No one in New- York would think of ordering his bottle of 
wine or his ices at a fashionable resort in Broadway and 
sitting down at a table placed on the sidewalk to discuss 
his refection leisurely, just out of the ever-passing throng ; 
yet here it is so common as to seem the rule rather than 
the exception. Hundreds sit thus within sight of my 
windows every evening ; dozens do likewise during the 
day. The Frenchman's pleasures are all social : to eat, 
drink or spend the evening alone would be a weariness to 



PARIS SOCIAL AND MORAL. 135 

him : he reads his newspaper in the thoroughfare or the 
public gardens : he talks more in one day than an English- 
man in three : the theaters, balls, concerts, &c. which 
to the islander afford occasional recreation are to him 
a nightly necessity : he would be lonely and miserable 
without them. Nowhere is Amusement more systemati- 
cally, sedulously sought than in Paris ; nowhere is it more 
abundant or accessible. For boys just escaped from school 
or paternal restraint, intent on enjoyment and untroubled 
by conscience or forecast, this must be a rare city. Its 
people, as a community, have signal good qualities and 
grave defects : they are intelligent, vivacious, courteous, 
obliging, generous and humane ; eager to enjoy, but willing 
that all the world should enjoy with them ; while at the 
same time they are impulsive, fickle, sensual and irreverent. 
Paris is the Paradise of the Senses ; a focus of Enjoyment, 
not of Happiness. Nowhere are Youth and its capacities 
more prodigally lavished ; nowhere is Old Age less happy 
or less respected. Paris has tens of thousands who would 
eagerly pour out their hearts' blood for Liberty and Human 
Progress, but no class or clan who ever thought of deny- 
ing themselves Wine and kindred stimulants in order that 
the Masses should be rendered worthier of Liberty and 
thus better fitted to preserve and enjoy it. Such notions 
as Total Abstinence from All that can Intoxicate are 
absolutely unheard of by the majority of Parisians, and 
incomprehensible or ridiculous to those who have heard 
of them. The barest necessaries of life are very cheap 
here ; many support existence quite endurably on a franc 
(18f cents) a day ; but of the rude Laboring Class few 
can really afford the comforts and proprieties of an order- 
ly family life, and the privation is very lightly regretted. 
The testimony is uniform that Marriage is scarcely re- 
garded as even a remote possibility by any one of the 
poor girls of Paris who live by work : to be for a season 
the mistress of a man of wealth, or one who can support 



136 GLANCES AT EUROPE. 

her in luxury and idleness, is the summit of her ambition. 
The very terms " grisette " and " lorette " by which young 
women unblest with wealth or social rank are commonly 
designated, involve the idea of demoralization — no man 
would apply them to one whom he respected and of whose 
good opinion he was solicitous. In no other nominally 
Christian city is the proportion of the unmarried so great 
as here : nowhere else do families so quickly decay ; no- 
where else is the proportion of births out of wedlock so ap- 
palling. The Poor of London are less comfortable as a 
class than those of Paris — that is, they suffer more from 
lack of employment, and their wages are lower in view of 
the relative cost of living ; but Philanthropy is far more 
active there than here, and far more is done to assuage the 
tide of human woe. Ten public meetings in furtherance 
of Educational, Philanthropic and Religious enterprises 
are held in the British Metropolis to one in this, and 
the number interested in such undertakings there, as con- 
trasted with that in this city, has an equal preponderance. 
I shall not attempt to strike a balance between the good 
and evil prevailing respectively in the two Capitals of 
Western Europe : the reader may do that for himself. 

SIGHTS OF PARIS. 

The first object of interest I saw in Paris was the 
Column of Napoleon in the Place Vendome, as I rattled 
by it in the gray dawn of the morning of my arrival. 
This gigantic Column, as is well known, was formed of 
cannon taken by the Great Captain in the several victories 
which irradiated his earlier career, and was constructed 
while he was Emperor of France and virtually of the 
Continent. His Statue crowns the pyramid ; it was pull- 
ed down while the Allied Armies occupied Paris, and a re- 
solute attempt was made to prostrate the Column also, but 
it was too firmly rooted. The Statue was not replaced till 



THE FRENCH OPERA. 137 

after the Revolution of 1830. The Place Vendome is 
small, surrounded by high houses, and the stately Column 
seems dwarfed by them. But for its historic interest, and 
especially that of the material employed in its construction, 
I should not regard it very highly. 

Far better placed, as well as more majestic and every 
way interesting, is the Obelisk of Luxor, which for thou- 
sands of years had overshadowed the banks of the Nile 
until presented to France by the late Pacha of Egypt, and 
transported thence to the Place de la Concorde, near the 
Garden of the Tuileries. I have seen nothing in Europe 
which impressed me like this magnificent shaft, covered as 
it is with mysterious inscriptions which have braved the 
winds and rains of four thousand years, yet seem as fresh 
and clear as though chiseled but yesterday. The removal 
entire of this bulk of many thousand tuns from Egypt to 
Paris is one of the most marvelous achievements of human 
genius, and Paris has for me no single attraction to match 
the Obelisk of Luxor. 

The Tuileries strikes me as an irregular mass of 
buildings with little pretensions to Architectural beauty or 
effect. It has great capacity, and nothing more. The 
Louvre is much finer, yet still not remarkable, but its 
wealth of Paintings by the Great Masters of all time 
surprised as well as delighted me. I never saw anything 
at all comparable to it. But of this another time. 

THE FRENCH OPERA. 

Paris, Monday, June 9, 1851. 

Having the evening on my hands, I have spent a good 
share of it at the Opera, of which France is proud, and to 
the support of which her Government directly and liberally 
contributes. It is not only a National institution, but a 
National trait, and as such I visited it. 

The house is very spacious, admirably planned, superbly 



138 GLANCES AT EUROPE. 

fitted up, and every way adapted to its purpose ; the charges 
moderate ; the audience large and well dressed ; the officers 
and attendants up to their business, and everything orderly 
and quiet. The play was Scribe's "L'Enfant Prodigue" (The 
Prodigal Son), which in England they soften into "Azael the 
Prodigal," but here no such euphemism is requisite, and 
indeed I doubt that half who witness it suspect that the 
idea is taken from the Scriptures. The idea, however, is 
all that is so borrowed. There were no great singers 
included in the cast for this evening, not even Alboni who 
remains here, while most of her compeers are in London. T 
am a poor judge, but I should say the music is not remarkable. 

This is a drama of Action and of Spectacle, however, 
to which the Music is subordinate. Such a medley of 
drinking and praying, dancing and devotion, idol- worship 
and Delilah-craft, I had not before encountered. At least 
three hundred performers were at once on the stage. The 
dancing-girls engaged were not less than one hundred in 
number, apparently all between fourteen and eighteen 
years of age, generally good-looking, and with that aspect 
of innocence and freshness to which the Stage is so fatal. 
The most agile and eminent among them was a Miss 
Plunkett, said to be an American, with a face of consider- 
able beauty ahd a winning, joyous manner. I should say 
that half the action of the piece, nearly half the time, and 
more than half the attention of the audience, were 
engrossed by these dancing demoiselles. 

France is the cradle and home of the Ballet. In other 
lands it is an exotic, here a natural outgrowth and ex- 
pression of the National mind. Of the spirit which 
conceived it, here is the abode and the Opera Francais the 
temple ; and here it has exerted its natural and unobstructed 
influence on the manners and morals of a People. If you 
would comprehend the Englishman, follow him to his 
fireside ; if a Frenchman, join him at the Opera and con- 
template him during the performance of the Ballet. 



THE FRENCH OPERA. 139 

I am, though no practitioner, a lover of the Dance. 
Restricted to proper hours and fit associates, I wish it were 
far more general than it is. Health, grace, muscular 
energy, even beauty, might be promoted by it. Why the 
dancing of the Theater should be rendered disgusting, I 
can not yet comprehend. The " poetry of motion," of 
harmonious evolutions and the graceful movement of 
"twinkling feet/' I think I appreciate. All these are 
natural expressions of innocent gaiety and youthful 
elasticity of spirits, whereof this world sees far too little. 
I wish there were more of them. 

But what grace, what sense, what witchery, there can 
be, for instance, in a young girl's standing on one great 
toe and raising the other foot to the altitude of her head, I 
cannot imagine. As an exhibition of muscular power, it is 
disagreeable to me, because I know that the capacity for 
it was acquired by severe and protracted efforts and at the 
cost of much suffering. Why is it kept on the stage ? 
Admit that it is not lascivious ; who will pretend that it is 
essentially graceful ? I was glad to see that the more 
extravagant distortions were not specially popular with the 
audience — that nearly all the applause bestowed on those 
ballet-feats which seem devised only to favor a liberal 
display of the person came from the little knot of hired 
" claqueurs " in the center of the pit. If there were many 
who loved to witness, there were few so shameless as to 
applaud. 

H the Opera is ever to become an element of Social life 
and enjoyment in New- York, I do trust that it may be 
such a one as thoughtful men may take their daughters to 
witness without apprehension or remorse. I do not know 
whether the Opera we now have is or is not such a one ; 
I know this is not. Its entire, palpable, urgent tendency, 
is "earthly, sensual, devilish." In none was the instinct 
of Purity ever strengthened by beholding it ; in many, it 
must, in the nature of things, be weakened with each 



140 GLANCES AT EUROPE. 

repetition of the spectacle. It is no marvel that the French 
are reputed exceedingly reckless of the sanctions and 
obligations of Marriage, if this is a part of their State- 
supported education. 

I came away at the close of the third act, leaving two 
more to be performed. The play is transcendent in spec- 
tacle, and has had a very great success here. 



XVII. 
PARIS, POLITICAL AND SOCIAL. 

Paris, Sunday, June 15, 1851. 
I marvel at the obliquity of vision whereby any one is 
enabled, standing in this metropolis, to anticipate the sub- 
version of the Republic and the restoration of Monarchy. 
Such prophets must belong essentially to that school which 
teaches the omnipotence of paper Constitutions and dilates 
with bristling hair on the appalling possibility that Wash- 
ington, or Hamilton, or Franklin, might not have been 
chosen to the Convention which framed our Federal Con- 
stitution, and that Constitution consequently have remained 
unperfected or unadopted. The true view I understand 
to be that if the Constitution had thus failed to be con- 
structed in '87 or adopted in '88, the necessity for it would 
still have existed, growing daily more urgent and palpable, 
so that Convention after Convention would from time to 
time have been called, and sooner or later a Constitution 
would have been elaborated and adopted ; and the longer 
this consummation was delayed the stronger and more 
controlling the Constitution ultimately formed would have 
been. So with the French Republic. It is simply an ex- 
pression of the intellectual convictions and social instincts 
of the French People. You meet it on the Boulevards 
and in the caf£s where the wealthy and luxurious most do 
congregate ; your cabman and boot-black, though perfectly 
civil and attentive, let you understand, if you have eyes, 
that they are Republicans ; while in the quarters tenanted 

1* 



142 GLANCES AT EUROPE. 

or frequented only by the Artisan and the Laborer you 
meet none but devotees of " the Republic Democratic and 
Social." The contrast between the abject fervility of the 
Poor in London and their manner here cannot be realized 
without actual observation. A hundred Princes or illus- 
trious Dukes in Paris would not attract as much attention 
as any one of them would in London. Democracy tri- 
umphed in the drawing-rooms of Paris before it had erected 
its first barricade in the streets ; and all subsequent efforts 
in behalf of Monarchy here have produced and can pro- 
duce only a fitful, spasmodic, unnatural life. If three Re- 
volutions within a life-time, all in the same direction, have 
not impressed this truth conclusively, another and another 
lesson will be added. The French have great faults of 
character which imperil the immediate fortunes of the 
Republic but cannot affect its ultimate ascendency. Im- 
pulsive and egotistic, they may seem willing to exchange 
Liberty for Tranquillity or Security, but this will be a mo- 
mentary caprice, soon past and forgotten. The Nation 
can never more be other than Republican, though the pos- 
sessors of power, controlling the Press, the Bureaux, the 
Assembly and the Army, may fancy that their personal 
interests would be promoted by a less popular system, and 
so be seen for a season following strange gods. This de- 
lusion and apostacy will speedily pass, leaving only their 
shame behind. 

The immediate peril of the Republic is the Election of 
May, '52, in view of the arbitrary disfranchisement of 
nearly one-half the Democratic voters, the manacled con 
dition of the Press, the denial to the People of the Right 
of Meeting for deliberation and concert, and the betrayal 
of all the enormous power and patronage of the State into 
the hands of the Aristocratic party. If the Republicans 
were to attempt holding a Convention to select a candi- 
date for President, their meetings would be promptly sup- 
pressed by the Police and the Bayonet. This may distract 



PARIS, POLITICAL AND SOCIAL. 143 

and scatter them, though I trust it will not. Their Presi- 
dential candidate will doubtless be designated by a Legis- 
lative Caucus or meeting of Representatives in the Assem- 
bly, simply because no fairer and" fuller expression of the 
party's preference would be tolerated. And if, passing 
over the mob of Generals and of Politicians by trade, the 
choice should fall on some modest and unambitious citizen, 
who has earned a character by quiet probity and his bread 
by honest labor, I shall hope to see his name at the head 
of the poll in spite of the unconstitutional overthrow of 
Universal Suffrage. After this, though the plurality should 
fall short of a majority and the Assembly proceed to elect 
Louis Napoleon or Changarnier, there need be no further 
apprehension. 

I hear, as from an official source, that there are now 
Three Thousand Americans in Paris, most of them re- 
siding here for months, if not for years. It gives me 
pleasure to state that, contrary to what I have often 
heard of the bearing of our countrymen in Europe, a large 
majority of these, so far as I may judge from meeting a 
good many and learning the sentiments of more, are 
warmly and openly on the side of the Republic and op- 
posed to the machinations of the motley host who seek its 
overthrow. 

The conviction of Charles Hugo, and his sentence to 
six months' imprisonment, for simply writing a strong Edi- 
torial in the Evenement in condemnation of Legal Killing, 
is making a profound sensation here. I think it will has- 
ten the downfall both of the Guillotine and the "party of 
Order" which thus assumes the championship of that vene- 
rated institution. The Times' Paris correspondent, I per- 
ceive, takes up the tale of Hugo's article having been cal- 
culated to expose the ministers of the law to popular 
odium, and naively protests against a line of argument by 
which " those who execute the law are stigmatized as ex- 
ecutioners." I suppose we must call them executors here- 



144 GLANCES AT EUROPE. 

after to obviate the hardship complained of. How singular 
that those who glory in the deed should shrink indignantly 
from the name ? 

American attention will naturally be drawn to the re- 
cent debate in the Assembly involving the principle of the 
Higher Law. The subject was a bill reorganizing the 
National Guard, with the intent of sifting it as clean as pos- 
sible of the popular element, and thus rendering it either 
a nullity, or an accomplice in the execution of the Monar- 
chical conspiracies now brewing. It is but a few days 
since Gen. Changarnier solemnly informed the Assembly, 
in reply to President Bonaparte's covert menaces at Dijon, 
that the army could not be made to level its muskets and 
point its cannon at the Assembly : " Wherefore, Represen- 
tatives of France, deliberate in Peace." Following logi- 
cally in the same train, a " Red" saw fit to affirm that the 
Army could not be brought to use its bayonets against the 
People who should take up arms in defense of the Repub- 
lic. No stick thrown into a hornets' nest ever excited 
such commotion as this remark did in the camp of " Or- 
der." In the course of a violent and tumultuous debate, 
it came out that Gen. Baraguay d'Hilliers, a leader on the 
side of " Order," refused in 1848 to take the proffered 
command of the troops fighting on the side of Order in the 
deplorable street combats of June. This was excused on 
the ground of his being a Representative as well as a 
General ! The Champions of " Order," having said all 
they wished and allowed their opponents to say very little, 
hastily shut down the gate, and refused to permit further 
discussion. No matter : the truth has been formally pro- 
claimed from the tribune that No one has a moral right to 
do as a soldier that which it would be wrong for him to do 
as a man — that, no matter what human rulers may decree, 
every man owes a paramount obedience to the law of God, 
and cannot excuse his violation of that law by producing 
an order to do so from any functionary or potentate what- 



AMERICAN ART, &C. 145 

ever. The idea is a fruitful one. and France is now pon- 
dering it. 

I attended divine worship to-day at Notre Dame, which 
seems to me not only the finest Church but the most 
imposing edifice in Paris. The Pantheon may vie with 
it, perhaps, but it has to my eye a naked and got-up look ; 
it lacks adequate furnishing. Beside these two, nearly all 
the public buildings of Paris strike me as lacking height in 
proportion to their superficial dimensions. The Hotel de 
Ville (City Hall) has a fine front, but seems no taller while 
more extensive than our New- York City Hall, which 
notoriously lacks another story. Even the Louvre, with 
ample space and a rare position, which most of the Paris 
edifices want, seems deficient in height. But Notre Dame, 
on the contrary, towers proudly and gracefully, and I have 
not seen its general effect surpassed. It reminded me of 
Westminster Abbey, though it is less extensive. As a 
place of worship it is infinitely superior to the Abbey, 
which has the damp air and gloom of a dungeon, in each 
most unlike Notre Dame. I trust no American visits 
Paris without seeing this noble church, and on the Sabbath 
if possible. 

AMERICAN ART AND INDUSTRY BRITISH JOURNALISM. 

Since I left London, The Times has contained two 
Editorials on American contributions to the Great Exhi- 
bition, which seem to require comment. These articles 
are deprecatory and apologetic in their general tenor, 
evincing a consciousness that the previous strictures of the 
London Press on American Art had pushed disparagement 
beyond the bounds of policy, and might serve to arouse a 
spirit in the breasts of the people so invidiously and 
persistently assailed. So our countryman are now told, 
in substance, that they are rather clever fellows on the 
whole, who have only made themselves ridiculous by 



146 GLANCES AT EUROPE. 

attempting to do and to be what Nature had forbidden. 
Nothing but our absurd pretensions could thus have 
exposed us to the world's laughter. America might be 
America with credit ; she has broken down by under- 
taking to be Europe also, &c, &c. 

" It is the attempt, and not the deed, confounds me." 

But what are the nature and extent of this American 
audacity ? Our countrymen have undertaken to minister 
to their own wants by the production of certain Wares 
and Fabrics which they had formerly been content either 
to do without or to buy from Europe. Being urgently 
invited to do so, they have sent over some few of these 
results of their art and skill to a grand exposition of the 
World's Industry. Even if they were as bad as they are 
represented, these products should be here ; since the 
object of the Exhibition is not merely to set forth what is 
best but to compare it with the inferior, and so indicate 
the readiest mode of improving the latter. Russia, Turkey, 
Egypt, Barbary, Persia, have sent hither their wares and 
fabrics, which hundreds of thousands have examined with 
eager and gratified interest — an interest as real as that 
excited by the more perfect rival productions of Western 
Europe, though of a different kind from that. No one has 
thought of ridiculing these products of a more primitive 
industry ; all have welcomed and been instructed by them. 
And so ours would have been treated had they been in 
fact the wretched affairs which the London Commercial 
press has represented them. It is precisely because they 
are quite otherwise that it has been deemed advisable 
systematically to disparage them— to declare our Pianos 
" gouty " structures — " mere wood and iron ;" our Calicoes 
beneath the acceptance of a British servant-girl ; our 
Farming Tools half a century behind their British rivals ; 
our Hats " shocking bad," &c, &c, — all this, in the first 



AMERICAN ART, &C. 147 

month of the Exhibition, while the Jurors appointed to 
judge and report upon the merits of rival fabrics were 
making the requisite investigations. Their verdict is thus 
substantially forestalled, and the millions who visit the 
Exhibition are invited to look at the American depart- 
ment merely to note the bad taste and incapacity therein 
displayed, and learn to avoid them. 

But the self-constituted arbiters who thus tell the 
American people that Art is not their province — that they 
should be content to grow Corn and Cotton, looking to 
Europe for the satisfaction of their less urgent necessities, 
their secondary wants — are they impartial advisers ? Are 
they not palpably speaking in the interest of the rival 
producers of Europe, alarmed by the rapid growth and 
extension of American Art ? Would they have taken so 
much trouble with us if American taste and skill were 
really the miserable abortions they represent them ? 

These indications of paternal care for American Indus- 
try, in danger of being warped and misdirected, are not 
quite novel. An English friend lately invited me to visit 
him at his house in the neighborhood of Birmingham, 
holding out as an inducement the opportunity of inspecting 
the great Iron and Hardware manufactories in that 
neighborhood. A moment afterward he recollected him- 
self and said, " I am not quite sure that I could procure 
you admittance to them, because the rule has been that 
Americans were not to be admitted. Gentlemen taking 
their friends to visit these works were asked, at the door, 
'Is your friend an American?' and if the answer was 
affirmative, he was not allowed to enter — but I think this 
restriction has been generally abrogated." Here you see, 
was a compassionate regard for American Industry, in 
danger of being misled and deluded into unprofitable 
employments, which neither The Times nor any of its 
co-laborers has been able to more thanliumbly imitate. 

To my mind, nothing can be more unjust than the 



148 GLANCES AT EUROPE. 

intimation that, in attempting to supply her own wants 
(or some of them) in the domain of Art and Manufacture, 
America has rushed madly from her sphere and sought to 
be Europe. She has already taught Europe many things 
in the sphere of Invention, and is destined to teach her 
many more ; and the fact that her Carriages are condemned 
as too light and her Pianos as too heavy, her Reaping 
Machines as "a cross between a treadmill and a flying 
chariot," &c, &c, by critics very superficially acquainted 
with their uses, and who have barely glanced at them in 
passing, proves nothing but the rashness and hostility of 
their contemners. From such unworthy disparagement I 
appeal with confidence to the awards of the various Juries 
appointed by the Royal Commissioners. They are com- 
petent ; they have made the requisite examinations ; they 
(though nearly all European and a majority of them 
British) are honorable men, and will render an impartial 
judgment. That judgment, I firmly believe, will demon- 
strate that, in proportion to the extent of its contributions, 
no other country has sent more articles to the Exhibition 
by which the whole world may be instructed and benefited 
than our own. 



XVIII. 
THE PALACES OF FRANCE. 

Paris, Monday, June 16, 1851. 
France, now the most Democratic, was long the most 
absolutely governed and the most loyally infatuated among 
the great Nations of Europe. Her cure of the dust-lick- 
ing distemper was Homoeopathic and somewhat slow, but it 
seems to be thorough and abiding. Those who talk of the 
National passion for that bloody phantom Glory — for 
Battle and Conquest — speak of what was, rather than of 
what is, and which, even in its palmiest days, w T as rather a 
penchant of the Aristocratic caste than a characteristic of 
the Nation. The Nobles of course loved War, for it was 
their high road to Royal favor, to station and renown ; all 
the spoils of victory enured to them, while nine-te,nths of 
its calamities fell on the heads of the Peasantry. But, 
though all France rushed to arms in 1793 to defend 
the National liberties and soil, yet Napoleon, in the zenith 
of his power and glory, could only fill the rapks of his 
legions by the abhorred Conscription. The great body of 
the People were even then averse to the din of the camp 
and the clangor of battle : the years of unmixed disaster 
and bitter humiliation which closed his Military career, 
served to confirm and deepen their aversion to garments 
rolled in blood ; and I am confident that there is at this 
moment no Nation in Europe more essentially peaceful 
than France. Her Millions profoundly sympathise with 
their brethren of Germany, Italy and Hungary, groaning 



150 GLANCES AT EUROPE. 

beneath the heavy yoke of the Autocrat and his vassals ; 
but they realize that the deliverance of Nations must 
mainly be wrought out from within, and they would much 
rather aid the subject Nations to recover their rights 
by the influence of example and of a Free Press than by 
casting the sword of Brennus into the scale where their 
liberties and happiness hang balanced and weighed down 
by the ambition and pride of their despots. The establish- 
ment of the Democratic and Social Republic is the ap- 
pointed end of war in Europe. It will not erase the 
boundaries of Nations, but these boundaries will no longer 
be overshadowed by confronted legions, and they will 
be freed from the monster nuisance of Passports. Then 
German, Frank, Briton, Italian, will vie with each other, as 
now, in Letters, Arts and Products, but no longer in 
the hideous work of defacing and desecrating the image of 
God ; for Liberty will have enlightened and Fraternity 
united them, and a permanent Congress of Nations will 
adjust and dispose of all causes of difference which may 
from time to time arise. — Freedom, Intelligence and Peace 
are natural kindred : the ancient Republics were Military 
and aggressive only because they tolerated and cherished 
Human Slavery ; and it is this which recently fomented 
hostilities between the two Republics of North America, 
and now impotently threatens the internal peace of our 
own. Liberty, if thorough and consistent, always did and 
must incline to Peace ; while Despotism, being founded in 
and only maintainable by Force, inevitably fosters a mar- 
tial spirit, organizes Standing Armies, and finds delight 
and security in War. 

These reflections have been recalled by my walks 
through several of the late Royal (now National) Palaces 
of France, the most striking monuments which endure of 
long ages of absolute kingly sway. How many there are 
of these Palaces 1 have forgotten or never knew; but I 
recall the names of the Luxembourg, the Tuileries, the 



PALACES OP FRANCE. 151 

Elisee Bourbon, St. Germains, St. Cloud, Versailles, Meu- 
don, and Rambouillet. These do not include the Palais 
Royal, which was built by the Orleans branch of the 
Bourbon family, nor any of the spacious edifices erected 
for the several Ministers of State and for the transaction 
of public business. The Palaces I have named were all 
constructed from time to time to serve as residences for 
the ten to thirty persons recognized as of the blood Royal, 
who removed from one to the other as convenience or 
whim may have suggested. They are generally very 
spacious, probably averaging one to two hundred apart- 
ments each, all constructed of the best materials and 
furnished and adorned with the most lavish disregard of 
cost. I roughly estimate the cost of these Palaces, if they 
were now to be built and furnished in this style, at One 
Hundred Millions of Dollars ; but the actual cost, in the 
ruder infancy of the arts when most of them were erected, 
was probably much more. Versailles alone cost some 
Thirty Millions of Dollars at first, while enormous sums 
have since been expended in perfecting and furnishing it. 
It would be within the truth to say that France, from the 
infancy of Louis XIV. to the expulsion of Louis Philippe, 
has paid more as simple interest on the residences of her 
monarchs and their families than the United States, with 
a larger population and with far greater wealth than 
France has averaged through that period, now pays for 
the entire cost of the Legislative, Executive and Judicial 
departments »>f her Government. All that we have paid 
our Presidents from Washington inclusive, adding the cost 
of the Presidential Mansion and all the furniture that has 
from time to time been put into it, would not build and 
furnish one wing of a single Royal Palace of France — 
that of Versailles. 

But the point to which I would more especially call 
attention is that of the unwearied exertions of Royalty to 
foster and inflame the passion for Military glory. I wan- 



152 GLANCES AT EUROPE. 

dered for hours through the spacious and innumerable halls 
of Versailles, in which Art and Nature seem to have been 
taxed to the utmost to heap up prodigies of splendor. At 
least one hundred of these rooms would each of itself be 
deemed a marvel of sumptuous display anywhere else ; yet 
here we passed over floors of the richest Mosaic and 
through galleries of the finest and most elaborately wrought 
Marble as if they had been but the roughest pavement or 
the rudest plaster. The eye is fatigued, the mind bewil- 
dered, by an almost endless succession of sumptuous 
carving, gilding, painting, &c, until the intervention of a 
naked ante-room or stair-case becomes a positive relief to 
both. And the ideas everywhere predominant are War 
and its misnamed Glory. Here are vast, expensive paint- 
ings purporting to represent innumerable Sieges and 
Battles in which the French arms were engaged, many of 
them so insignificant that the world has wisely forgotten 
them, yet here preserved to inflame and poison the minds 
of hot-blooded, unreflecting youth, impelling them to rush 
into the manufacture of cripples and corpses under the 
horrible delusion that needless, aimless Slaughter, if perpe- 
trated by wholesale, can really be honorable and glorious. 
These paintings, as a whole, are of moderate value as 
works of Art, while their tendency is horrible and their 
details to me revolting. Carriages shattered and over- 
turned, animals transfixed by spear-thrusts and writhing in 
speechless agony, men riddled by cannon-shot or pierced 
by musket-balls and ghastly with coming death, such are 
the spectacles which the more favored and fortunate of the 
Gallic youth have been called for generations to admire 
and enjoy. These battle-pieces have scarcely more His- 
toric than Artistic value, since the names of at least half 
of them might be transposed and the change be undetect- 
ed by ninety-nine out of every hundred who see them. 
If all the French battles were thus displayed, it might be 
urged with plausibility that these galleries were historical 



PALACES OF FRANCE. 153 

in their character ; but a full half of the story, that which 
tells of French disaster and discomfiture — is utterly sup- 
pressed. The Battles of Ptolemais, of Ivry, of Fontenoy, 
of Rivoli, of Austerlitz, &c, are here as imposing as paint 
can make them, but never a whisper of Agincourt, Crecy, 
Poictiers, Blenheim, or Ramillies, nor yet of Salamanca, of 
Vittoria, of Leipsic, or Waterloo. Even the wretched 
succession of forays which the French have for the last 
twenty years been prosecuting in Algerine Africa here 
shines resplendent, for Vernet has painted, by Louis 
Philippe's order and at France's cost, a succession of battle- 
pieces wherein French numbers and science are seen pre- 
vailing over Arab barbarism and irregular valor in combats 
whereof the very names have been wisely forgotten by 
mankind, though they occurred but yesterday. One of 
these is much the largest painting I ever saw, and is pro- 
bably the largest in the world, and it seems to have been 
got up merely to exhibit one of Louis Philippe's sons in 
the thickest of the fray. Last of all, we have the " Capture 
of Abd-el-Kader," as imposing as Vernet could make it, 
but no whisper of the persistent perfidy wherewith he has 
been retained for several years in bondage, in violation of 
the express agreement of his captors. The whole collec- 
tion is, in its general effect, delusive and mischievous, the 
purpose being to exhibit War as always glorious and France 
as uniformly triumphant. It is by means like these that 
the business of shattering knee-joints and multiplying 
orphans is kept in countenance. 

Versailles is a striking monument of the selfish profli- 
gacy of King-craft and the long-suffering patience of 
Nations. Hundreds of thousands of laborers' children 
must have gone hungry to their straw pallets in order that 
their needy parents might pay the inexorable taxes levied 
to build this Palace. Yet after all it has stood mainly 
uninhabited ! Its immense extent and unequalled splendor 
require an immeasurable profusion in its occupant, and the 



154 GLANCES AT EUROPE. 

incomes even of kings are not absolutely without limit. So 
Versailles, with six or eight other Royal Palaces in and around 
Paris, has generally stood empty, entailing on the country 
an enormous annual expense for its simple preservation. 
And now, though France has outgrown Royalty, it knows 
not what to do with its costly, spacious, glittering shells. 
A single Palace (Rambouillet) standing furthest from Paris, 
was converted (under Louis Philippe) into a gigantic store- 
house for Wool, while its spacious Parks and Gardens were 
wiselv devoted to the breeding and sustenance of the 
choicest Merino Sheep. The others mainly stand empty, 
and how to dispose of them is a National perplexity. 
Some of them may be converted into Hospitals, Insane 
Retreats, &c, others into Libraries or Galleries of Art and 
Science ; but Versailles is too far from Paris for aught but 
a Retreat as aforesaid, and has cost so immense a sum that 
any use which may be made of it will seem wasteful. I 
presume it could not be sold as it stands for a tenth of its 
actual cost. Perhaps it will be best, therefore, to convert 
all the others into direct uses and preserve this for public 
inspection as a perpetual memorial of the reckless prodi- 
gality and all-devouring pomp of Kings, and as a warning 
to Nations never again to entrust their destinies to men 
who, from their very education and the influences sur- 
rounding them through life, must be led to consider the 
Toiling Millions as mainly created to pamper their appe- 
tites, to gratify their pride, and to pave with their corpses 
their road to extended dominion. 

St. Cloud is a much smaller but more pleasantly situ- 
ated, more tastefully furnished and decorated Palace, some 
miles nearer than Versailles to Paris, and commanding an 
admirable view of the city. The Luxembourg, situated 
in the southern section of the city, is externally a chaste 
and well-proportioned edifice, containing some fine pictures 
by living artists, and surrounded by spacious and delightful 
woods, shrubbery, &c. termed " the Gardens of theLuxem- 



PASSPORTS, ETC. 155 

bourg." The Tuileries, in the heart of the city, near the 
Seine, I have not seen internally, and the exterior seems 
low, straggling, and every way unimposing. Its extent is 
almost incredible by those who have not seen it — scarcely 
less than that of Versailles. The Louvre is the finest 
structure of all, and most worthily devoted. Its lower 
story is filled with Sculptures of no considerable merit, 
but its galleries contain more strikingly good Paintings 
than I shall ever again see under one roof. I have spent 
a good part of two days there, and mean to revisit it on 
my return. 

PASSPORTS, ETC. 

If each American could spend three days on this con- 
tinent, his love of Country and of Liberty could not fail 
to be quickened and intensified, if only by an experience 
of the enormity of the Passport nuisance. It has cost me 
precious hours already, not to speak of dollars, and is cer- 
tain to cost many more of each. I have nearly concluded 
to given up Germany on account of it, while Italy fairly 
swarms with petty sovereignties and with Yankee Consuls, 
the former afraid of their own black shadows, the latter in- 
tent on their beloved two dollars each from every American 
traveler. Such is the report I have of them, and I presume 
the reality is equal to the foreshadowing. It is a shame 
that Republican France stands far behind Aristocratic 
Britain in this respect, but I trust the contrast will not en- 
dure many more years. 

Two Americans who arrived here last week caused 
some perplexity to their landlord. Every man who lodges 
a stranger here must see forthwith that he has a Passport 
in good condition, in default of which said host is liable to 
a penalty. Now, these Americans, when applied to, pro- 
duced Passports in due form, but the professions set forth 
therein were not transparent to the landlord's apprehen- 
sion. One of them was duly designated in his Passport as 



156 OLANCE3 AT EUROPE. 

a " Loafer" the other as a " Rowdy," and they informed 
him, on application, that, though these professions were 
highly popular in America and extensively followed, they 
knew no French synonyms into which they could be trans- 
lated. The landlord, not content with the sign manual of 
Daniel Webster, affirming that all was right, applied to an 
American friend for a translation of the inexplicable pro- 
fessions, but I am not sure that he has even yet been fully 
enlightened with regard to them. 

1 am oil' to-day (1 hope) for Lyons and Italy. 



XIX. 
FRANCE, CENTRAL AND EASTERN. 

Lyons, Tuesday, June 17, 1851. 
I came out of Paris through the spacious Boulevards* 
which, under various second appellations, stretch eastward 
from the Madeleine Church nearly to the barrier, and then 
bend southward, near the beautiful column which marks 
the site and commemorates the fall of the Bastile, so long 
the chief dungeon wherein Despotism stifled Remonstrance 
and tamed the spirit of Freedom. Liberty in France is 
doomed yet to undergo many trials — nay, is now enduring 
some of them — but it is not within the compass of proba- 
bility that another Bastile should ever rear its head there, 
nor that the absolute power and abject servitude which it 
fitly symbolized should ever be known there hereafter. 
Very near it on the south lies the famous Faubourg St. 
Antoine, inhabited mainly by bold, free-souled working- 
men, who have repeatedly evinced their choice to die free 
rather than live slaves, and in whom the same spirit 
lives and rules to-day. I trust that dire alternative will 
never again be forced upon them, but if it should be there 
is no Bastile so impregnable, no despotism so fortified by 
prescription, and glorious recollections, and the blind de- 
votion of loyalty, as those they have already leveled to the 
earth. 

* Boulevard means, I presume, rampart or fortified works (henco our Eng- 
lish bulwark). The rampart was long ago removed, as the city outgrew it, 
but the name is retained by the ample street which took its place. Out Battery 
at New-York illustrates this origin of a name. 

8 



158 GLANCES AT EUROPE. 

The Paris Station of the Lyons Railway is at the east- 
ern barrier of the City. I received here another lesson in 
French Railroad management. I first bought at the office 
my ticket for Chalons on the Saone, which is the point to 
which the road is now completed. The distance is 243 
miles ; the fare (first-class) $7 50. But the display of my 
ticket did not entitle me to enter the passengers' sitting- 
room, much less to approach the cars. Though I had cut 
down my baggage, by two radi lal retrenchments, to two 
light carpet-bags, I could not take these with me, nor 
would they pass without weighing. When weighed, I was 
required to pay three or four sous (cents) for extra bag- 
gage, though there is no stage-route in America on which 
those bags would not have passed unchallenged and been 
accounted a very moderate allowance. Now I was per- 
mitted to enter the sacred precincts, but my friend, who 
had spent the morning with me and come to see me off, 
was inexorably shut out, and I had no choice but to bid 
him a hasty adieu. Passing the entrance, I was shown 
into the apartment for first-class passengers, while the 
second-class were driven into a separate fold and the 
third-class into another. Thus we waited fifteen minutes, 
during which I satisfied myself that no other American 
was going by this train, and but three or four English, and 
of these the two with whom I scraped an acquaintance 
were going only to Fontainbleau, a few miles from Paris. 
They were required to take their places in a portion of the 
train which was to stop at Fontainbleau, and so we moved 
off. 

The European Railway carriages, so far as I have yet 
seen them, are more expensive and less convenient than 
ours. Each is absolutely divided into apartments about 
the size of a mail-coach, and calculated to hold eight per- 
sons. The result is thirty-two seats where an American 
car of equal length and weight would hold at least fifty, 
and of the thirty-two passengers, one-half must inevitably 



FRANCE, CENTRAL AND EASTERN. 159 

ride backward. I believe the second-class cars are more 
sociable, and mean to make their acquaintance. I should 
have done it this time, but for my desire to meet some one 
with whom I could converse, and Americans and English- 
men are apt to cling to the first-class places. My aim 
was disappointed. My companions were all Frenchmen, 
and, what was worse, all inveterate smokers. They kept 
pufY-puffing, through the day ; first all of them, then three, 
two, and at all events one, till they all got out at Dijon 
near nightfall ; when, before I had time to congratulate 
myself on the atmospheric improvement, another French- 
man got in, lit his cigar, and went at it. All this was in 
direct and flagrant violation of the rules posted up in the 
car; but when did a smoker ever care for law or decency? 
I will endeavor next time to find a seat in a car where 
women are fellow-passengers, and see whether their pre- 
sence is respected by the devotees of the noxious weed. 
I have but a faint hope of it. 

The Railroad from Paris to Chalons passes through 
a generally level region, watered by tributaries of the 
Seine and of the Saone, with a range of gentle hills skirt- 
ing the valleys, generally on the right and sometimes on 
either hand. As in England, the track is never allowed 
to cross a carriage-road on its own level, but is carried 
either under or over each. The soil is usually fertile and 
well cultivated, though not so skillfully and thoroughly as 
that of England. There are places, however, in which the 
cultivation could not easily be surpassed, but I should say 
that the average product would not be more than two- 
thirds that of England, acre for acre. There are very few 
fences of any kind, save a slight one inclosing the Railway, 
beyond which the country stretches away as far as the eye 
can reach without a visible landmark, the crops of different 
cultivators fairly touching each other and growing square 
up to the narrow roads that traverse them. You will 
see, for instance, first a strip of Grass, perhaps ten rods 



160 GLANCES AT EUROPE. 

wide, and running back sixty or eighty rods from the tlail- 
road ; then a narrower strip of Wheat ; then one of Grape- 
Vines ; then one of Beans ; then one of Clover ; then Wheat 
again, then Grass or Oats, and so on. I saw very little 
Rye ; and if there were Potatoes or Indian Corn, they 
were not up sufficiently high to be distinguished as we 
sped by them. The work going forward was the later 
Weeding with the earlier Hay-making, and I saw nearly 
as many women as men working in the fields. The grow- 
ing crops were generally kept pretty clear of weeds, and 
the grass was most faithfully but very slowly cut. I think 
one Yankee would mow over more ground in a day than 
two Frenchmen, but he would cut less hay to the acre. 
Of course, in a country devoid of fences and half covered 
with small patches of grain, there could not be many cat- 
tle : I saw no oxen, very few cows, and not many horses. 
The hay-carts were generally drawn by asses, or by horses 
so small as*not to be easily distinguished from asses as we 
whirled rapidly by. The wagons on the roads were gene- 
rally drawn by small horses. I judge that the people are 
generally industrious but not remarkably efficient, and that 
the women do the larger half of the work, house-work 
included. The hay-carts were wretchedly small, and the 
implements used looked generally rude and primitive. 
The dwellings are low, small, steep-roofed cottages, for 
which a hundred dollars each would be a liberal offer. Of 
course, I speak of the rural habitations ; those in the vil- 
lages are better, though still mainly small, steep-roofed, 
poor, and huddled together in the most chaotic confusion. 
The stalls and pastures for cattle were in the main only 
visible to the eye of faith ; though cattle there must be and 
are to do the ploughing and hauling. I suspect they are 
seldom turned loose in summer, and that there is not a cow 
to every third cottage. I think I did not see a yoke of oxen 
throughout the day's ride of 243 miles. 

I was again agreeably disappointed in the abundance of 



FRANCE, CENTRAL AND EASTERN. 161 

Trees. Wood seems to be the peasants' sole reliance for 
fuel, and trees are planted beside the roads, the streams, 
the ditches, and often in rows or patches on some arable 
portion of the peasants' narrow domain. This planting is 
mainly confined to two varieties — the Lombardy Poplar 
and what I took to be the Pollard, a species of Willow 
which displays very little foliage, and is usually trimmed 
up so as to have but a mere armfull of leaves and branches 
at the top of a trunk thirty to fifty feet high, and six to 
twelve inches through. The Lombardy Poplar is in like 
manner preferred, as giving a large amount of trunk to 
little shade, the limbs rarely extending three feet from the 
trunk, while the growth is rapid. Such are the means 
employed to procure fuel and timber with the least possible 
abstraction of soil from the uses of cultivation. There are 
some side-hills so rocky and sterile as to defy human indus- 
try, and these are given up to brush- wood, which. I presume 
is cut occasionally and bound into faggots for fuel. Some 
of it may straggle up, if permitted, into trees, but I saw 
little that would fairly justify the designation of Forest. 
Of Fruit-trees, save in the villages, there is a deplorable 
scarcity throughout. 

We passed through few villages and no town of note but 
Dijon, the capital of ancient Burgundy, where its Parlia- 
ment was held and where its Dukes reigned and were 
buried. Their palace still stands, though they have passed 
away. Dijon is 200 miles from Paris, and has 25,000 
inhabitants, with manufactures of Cotton, Woolen and 
Silk. Here and henceforth the Vine is more extensively 
cultivated than further Northward. 

We reached Chalons on the Saone (there is anothei 
Chalons on the Marne) before 9 P. M. or in about ten 
hours from Paris. Here a steamboat was ready to take us 
forthwith to Lyons, but French management was too much 
for us. Our baggage was all taken from the car outside 
and carried piece by piece into the depot., where it was 



162 GLANCES AT EUROPE. 

very carefully arranged in order according to the numbers 
affixed to the several trunks, &c, in Paris. This consumed 
the better part of half an hour, though half as many Yankees 
as were fussing over it would have had it all distributed 
to the owners inside of ten minutes. Then the holders of 
the first three or four numbers were let into the baggage- 
room, and when they were disposed of as many more were 
let in, and so on. Each, as soon as he had secured his 
baggage, was hustled into an omnibus destined for the boat. 
I was among the first to get seated, but ours was the last 
omnibus to start, and when the attempt was made, the 
carriage was overloaded and wouldn't start! At last it 
was set in motion, but stopped twice or thrice to let off 
passengers and baggage at hotels, then to collect fare, and 
at last, when we had got within a few rods of the landing, 
we were cheered with the information that " Le bateau est 
parti!" The French may have been better than this, but 
its purport was unmistakable — the boat was gone, and we 
were done. I had of course seen this trick played before, 
but never so clumsily. There was no help for us, however, 
and the amount of useless execration emitted was rather 
moderate than otherwise. Our charioteers had taken good 
care to obtain their pay for carrying us some time before, 
and we suffered ourselves to be taken to our predestined 
hotel in a frame of mind approaching Christian resignation. 
In fact, when I had been shown up to a nice bed-room, with 
clean sheets and (for France) a fair supply of water, and 
had taken time to reflect that there is no accommodation 
for sleeping on any of these European river-boats, I was 
rather glad we had been swindled than otherwise. So I 
am still. But you may travel the same route in a hurry ; 
so look out ! 

We rose at 4 and made for the boat, determined not 
to be caught twice in the same town. At five we bade 
good-by to Chalons-sur-Saone (a pleasant town of 13,000 
peopled, under a lowering sky which soon blessed the earth 



FRANCE, CENTRAL AND EASTERN. 163 

with rain — a dubious blessing to a hundred people on a 
steamboat with no deck above the guards and scarcely 
room enough below for the female passengers. However, 
the rain soon ceased and the sky gradually cleared, so that 
since 9 o'clock the day has been sunny and delightful. 

The distance from Chalons to Lyons by the Saone is 
some 90 miles. The river is about the size of the 
Connecticut from Greenfield to Hartford, but is sluggish 
throughout, with very low banks until the last ten or 
fifteen miles. After an intervale of half a mile to two 
miles, the land rises gently on the right to an altitude of 
some two to five hundred feet, the slope covered and 
checkered the whole distance with vineyards, meadows, 
woods, &c. The Poplar and the Pollard are still planted, 
but the scale of cultivation is larger and the houses much 
better than between Paris and Dijon. The intervale 
(mainly in meadow) is much wider on the left bank, the 
swell beyond it being in some places scarcely visible. The 
scenery is greatly admired here, and as a whole may be 
termed pretty, but cannot compare with that of the Hud- 
son or Connecticut in boldness or grandeur. There are 
some craggy hill-sides in the distance, but I have not yet 
seen an indisputable mountain in France, though I have 
passed nearly through it in a mainly southerly course for 
over five hundred miles. 

As we approach Lyons, the hills on either side come 
nearer and finally shut in the river between two steep ac- 
clivities, from which much building-stone has been quarried. 
Elsewhere, these hill-sides are covered with tasteful country 
residences of the retired or wealthy Lyonnais, surrounded 
by gardens, arbors, shrubbery, &c. The general effect is 
good. At last, houses and quays begin to line and bridges 
to span the river, and we halt beside one of the quays and 
are in Lyons. 



XX. 

LYONS TO TURIN. 

Turin (Italy), June 20, 1851. 

Lyons, though a French city, and the second in the Re- 
public, wears a sad, disheartened aspect. In '91 a strong- 
hold of decaying Loyalty, it is to-day the very focus of 
Democratic Socialism, being decidedly more " Red " than 
Paris. — Here is concentrated the Sixth Military Division 
of the French Army, under chiefs not chary of using the 
sabre and bayonet, and with instructions to apply efficient 
poultices of grape and canister on the first palpable ap- 
pearance of local inflammation. Should Louis Napoleon 
be enabled to override the Constitution and prolong his 
sway, it is possible that, by the aid of the act of May 31st, 
1850, whereby more than half the Artisans of France are 
disfranchised, the spirit of Lyons may in time be subdued, 
and partisans of " Order " substituted for her present So- 
cialist Representatives in the Assembly ; but, should the 
popular cause triumph in the ensuing Elections, I shall be 
agreeably disappointed if that triumph is as temperately 
and forbearingly enjoyed here as was that of February, 
1848. 

Lyons is now undergoing one of those periodical revul- 
sions or depressions which are the necessary incidents of 
the false system of Industry and Trade which the leaders 
of Commercial opinion are bent on fortifying and extend- 
ing. — Here, at the confluence of the Rhone and the Saone, 
is concentrated a population of nearly 200,000 souls, half 
of whom attempt to live by spinning, weaving and dyeing 



LYONS TO TURIN. 165 

Silks, while the residue in good part busy themselves in 
collecting and buying the raw material or in exporting and 
selling the product. But it is not best for themselves nor 
for mankind that 100,000 Silk- workers should be clustered 
on any square mile or two of earth ; if they were distribut- 
ed over the world's surface, in communities of five to fifty 
thousand souls — if the raw Silk were grown in the various 
countries wherein the fabrics are required, where the cli- 
mate and soil do not forbid, and taken there to be manu- 
factured where they do — the workers would have space, 
air, activity, liberty, development, which are unattainable 
while they are cooped within the walls of a single city. If 
those Silk- weavers, for instance, whose fabrics are con- 
sumed in the United States, were now located in Virginia, 
Tennessee, Missouri, &c. instead of being mainly crowded 
into Lyons, they would there obtain many of the necessa- 
ries of life at half the prices they now give for them, while 
the consumers of their fabrics would pay for them in good 
part with Fruits, Vegetables, Fuel, &c. which, because of 
their bulk or their perishable nature, they cannot now sell 
at all, or can only sell at prices below the cost of produc- 
tion. No matter if the Silks were held in money a fifth, a 
fourth, or even a third higher than now, the great body of 
our consumers would obtain them much cheaper, estimat- 
ing the cost not in dollars but in days' labor. The work- 
ers on both sides would be benefited, because they would 
share between them at least three-fourths of the enormous 
tax which Commerce now levies upon their Industry 
through the sale and resale of its products, to distribute 
among its importers, shippers, jobbers, retailers and lackeys 
of infinite variety. The bringing together of Producer 
and Consumer, where Nature has interposed no barrier, so 
that their diverse needs may be supplied by direct inter- 
change, or with the fewest possible intermediates, is the— 
simple and only remedy for one of the chief scourges un- 
der which Industry now suffers throughout the world. 

8* 



166 GLANCES AT EUROPE. 

" Very true," says Vapid," " but this will regulate 
itself." — Will it, indeed ? Be good enough to tell me how ! 
All the potent individual agencies now affecting it are at- 
tached by self-interest to the wrong side. The Capitalists, 
the Employers, the Exporters, engaged in the Silk trade, all 
own property in Lyons, and are naturally anxious that the 
manufacture shall be more and more concentrated there. 
The Shipper, the Importer, the Jobber of our own country, 
has a like interest in keeping the point of production as dis- 
tant from their customers as possible. Very often have I been 
told by wholesale merchants, " We prefer to sell Foreign 
rather than Home-made fabrics, because the profit on the 
former is usually much greater." This consideration is 
active and omnipresent in Trade generally. The sole in- 
terest subserved by Direct and Simple Exchanges is that 
of Labor; and this, though greatest of all, is unorganized, 
inert, and individually impotent. These Silk- Weavers of 
Lyons are no more capable of removing to Virginia or 
Missouri and establishing their business there than the 
Alps are of making an American tour. Our consumers of 
Silks, acting as individuals, cannot bring them over and 
establish them among us. But the gre-at body of consum- 
ers, animated by Philanthropy and an enlightened Self-In- 
terest, acting through their single efficient organism, the 
State, can make it the interest of Capital and Capacity to 
bring them over and plant them in the most eligible locali- 
ties among us, and ought immediately and persistently to 
do so. The inconveniences of such a policy are partial and 
transitory, while its blessings are permanent and universal. 

A RIDE ACROSS THE ALPS. 

Railroads are excellent contrivances for dispatch and 
economy; Steamboats ditto, and better still for ease and 
observation or reading ; Steamships are to be endured 
when Necessity compels , but an old-fashioned Coach-and- / 



A HIDE ACROSS THE ALPS. 167 

Four is by no means to be despised, even in this age of 
Progress and Enlightenment. While I stay in Europe, I 
wish to see as much land and to waste as little time on 
blue water as possible. So I turned aside at Lyons from 
the general stream of Italy-bound travellers — which flows 
down the Rhone to Avignon and Marseilles, thence 
embarking for Genoa^ and Leghorn, — and booked myself 
for a ride across the Lower Alps by diligence to Turin. 
And glad am I that my early resolve to do so was not 
shaken. 

The European, but more especially French, diligence 
has often been described. Ours consisted of a long car 
riage divided into the coupe or foremost apartment, directly 
under the driver, and with an outlook on each side and in 
front over the backs of the horses ; the middle apartment, 
which is much like the interior of our ordinary stage- 
coach ; and the rumble or rear apartment, calculated for 
servants or other cheap travelers. Two-thirds of the roof 
was covered with a tun or two of baggage and merchan- 
dise ; and in front of this, behind and above the driver's 
seat, is the banquette, a single seat across the top, 
calculated to hold four persons, with a chaise top to be 
thrown back in fine weather and a glass front to be let 
down by night or in case of rain. I chose my seat here, 
as affording the best possible view of the country. At 8 
P. M. precisely, the driver cracked his whip, and four good 
horses started our lumbering vehicle at a lively pace on 
the road to Turin, some two hundred miles away in the 
south-east. 

The road from Lyons to the frontier is one of the best in 
the world, and traverses a level, fertile, productive country. 
I should say that Grass, Wheat and the Vine are the chief 
staples. A row of trees adorns either side of the road 
most of the way, not the trim, gaunt, limbless skeletons 
which are preferred throughout Central France, but wide- 
spreading, thrifty shade-trees, which I judged in the dark* 



168 GLANCES AT EUROPE. 

ness to be mainly Black Walnut, with perhaps a sprinkling 
of Chestnut, &c. Through this noble avenue, we rattled 
on at a glorious pace, a row of small bells jingling from 
each horse, and no change of teams consuming more than 
two minutes, until we reached the little village on the 
French side of the boundary between France and Savoy, 
some fifty miles from Lyons. Here our Passports were 
taken away for scrutiny and vise, and we were compelled 
to wait from 2£ till 5 o'clock, as the Sardinian officers 
of customs would not begin to examine our baggage till 
the latter hour. At 5 we crossed the little, rapid river (a 
tributary of the Rhone) which here divides the two coun- 
tries, a French and a Sardinian sentinel standing at either 
end of the bridge. We drove into the court of the 
custom-house, dismounted, had our baggage taken off and 
into the rude building, where half a dozen officers and 
attendants soon appeared and went at it. They searched 
rigidly, but promptly, carefully and like gentlemen. In 
half an hour we were pronounced all right ; our diligence 
was reloaded, and, our passports having been returned, we 
rattled out of the village and on our way, in the sunshine 
of as bright a June morning as I ever hope to enjoy. 

France is a land of plains, and glades, and gentle acclivi- 
ties ; Savoy is a country of mountains. They rose before 
and around us from the moment of our crossing the 
boundary — grim, rugged and precipitous, they formed a 
striking contrast to all of Europe I had hitherto seen. 
Throughout the day and night following, we were rarely 
or never out of sight of snow-covered peaks ; nay, I have 
not yet lost sight of them, since they are distinctly visible 
in the clear Italian atmosphere from the streets of this 
sunny metropolis, at a distance of some thirty miles north. 
Our route lay through Savoy for about a hundred miles, 
and not one acre in thirty within sight of it can ever be 
plowed. Yet the mountains are in good part composed of 
limestone, so that the narrow, sheltered valleys are 



A RIDE ACROSS THE ALPS. 169 

decidedly fertile ; and the Vine is often made to thrive on 
the steep, rocky hill sides, where the plow could not be 
forced below the surface, and where an ox could not keep 
his footing. Every inch of ground that can be, is culti- 
vated ; little patches of Wheat, or Grass, or Vines are got 
in wherever there is a speck of soil, though no larger than 
a cart-body ; and far up the sides of steep mountains, 
wherever a spot is found so moderately inclined that soil 
will lie on it, there Grass at least is grown. 

Human Labor, in such a region, fully peopled, is very 
cheap and not very efficient. The grape is the chief 
staple and Wine must be the principal and probably is the 
only export, at least one third of the arable soil being 
devoted to the Vine. Wheat is pretty extensively sown 
and is. now heading very thriftily, but I suspect the 
average size of the patches is not above a quarter of an 
acre each. The Grass is good ; and not much of it cut 
yet. Indian Corn and Potatoes are generally cultivated, 
but in deplorable ignorance of their nature. At least four 
times the proper quantity of seed is put in the ground, 
neither Corn nor Potatoes being allowed more than 
eighteen inches between the rows, making the labor of 
cultivation very great and the chance of a good yield none 
at all. 

I think I saw quite as many women as men at work in 
the fields throughout Savoy. A girl of fourteen driving a 
yoke of oxen attached to a cart, walking barefoot beside 
the team and plying the goadstick, while a boy of her own 
age lay idly at length in the cart, is one of my liveliest 
recollections of Savoyard ways. Nut-brown, unbonneted 
women, hoeing corn with an implement between an adze 
and a pick-axe (and not a bad implement, either, for so 
rugged an unplowed soil), women driving hogs, ccws, &c, 
to or from market, we encountered at every turn. So 
much hard, rough work and exposure are fatal to every 
trace of beauty, and I do not remember to have seen a 



170 GLANCES AT EUROPE. 

woman in Savoy even moderately good-looking, while 
many were absolutely revolting. That this is not Nature's 
fault is proved by the general aspect of the children, who, 
though swarthy, have often good forms and features. 

We drove down into Chambery, the capital of ancient 
Savoy, about 9, a. m. This is a town of some fifteen 
thousand inhabitants, pleasantly situated in the valley of 
a much larger tributary of the Rhone than that we crossed 
at the boundary, and with a breadth of arable soil of 
perhaps two miles between the mountains. No where 
else in Savoy did we traverse a valley even half a mile 
wide for any distance. Here is an old ducal palace, with 
fine spacious grounds, shrubbery, &c. The road from 
Geneva and the Baths of Aix to Turin comes down this 
valley and here intersects that from Lyons. We were 
allowed twenty-five minutes for breakfast, which would 
have been very well but that the time required for cooking 
most of the breakfast had to come out of it. 

There was enough and good enough to eat, and (as usual 
throughout all this region) Wine in abundance without 
charge, but Tea, Coffee or Chocolate must be ordered and 
paid for extra. Even so, I was unable to obtain a cup of 
Chocolate, the excuse being that there was not time to 
make it. I did not understand, therefore, why I was 
charged more than others for breakfast ; but to talk 
English against French or Italian is to get a mile behind 
in no time, so I pocketed the change offered me and came 
away. On the coach, however, with an Englishman near 
me who had traveled this way before and spoke French 
and Italian, I ventured to expose my ignorance as follows : 

" Neighbor, why was I charged three francs for break- 
fast, and the rest of you but tw T o and a half?" 

" Don't know — perhaps you had Tea or Coffee." 

"No, Sir — don't drink either." 

" Then perhaps you washed your face and hands." 

" Well, it would be just like me." 



A RIDE ACROSS THE ALPS. 171 

" O, then, that's it ! The half franc was for the basin 
and towel." 

"Ah, oui, oui" So the milk in that cocoa-nut was 
accounted for. 

Our road, though winding constantly among mountains, 
was by no means a rugged one. On the contrary, I was 
surprised, to find it so nearly level. Three or four times 
during the day we came to a hard hill, and usually a yoke 
of oxen, an extra horse or span, stood at the foot, ready to 
hitch on and help us up. Of course, we were steadily 
rising throughout, but so gradually and on so capital a road 
as to offer little impediment to our progress. A better 
road made of earth I never expect to see. Every mile 
of it is plainly under constant supervision, and any defect 
is instantly repaired. The only exception to its excellence 
is caused by the villages, which occur at an average of ten 
miles apart, and consist each of fifty to two hundred poor 
dwellings, mainly of stone, huddled chaotically together 
along the two sides of the road, which is twisted and 
turned by them in every direction, and often crowded into 
a width of not more than eight or ten feet. It is abso- 
lutely impossible that two carriages should pass each 
other in these narrow, crooked lanes, and dangerous for 
even a pedestrian to stand outside of a house while the 
diligence is threading one of these gorges. 

There is no town except Chambery on the whole route 
from Lyons to Turin ; but we passed about noon through 
a village in which a Fair was proceeding. I did not 
suspect that, two thousand people could live within ten 
miles of the spot ; yet I think fully two thousand were 
here collected, with half as many cows, asses, hogs, &c, 
which had been brought hither for sale, and about which 
they were jabbering and gesticulating. Dealers in coarse 
chip hats and a few kindred fabrics were also present ; but 
it looked as if sellers were more abundant and eager than 
buyers. It was only by great effort and by the most 



172 GLANCES AT EUROPE. 

exemplary patience that our driver and guard were enabled 
to clear the road so that we passed through without 
inflicting any injury. 

Wilder and narrower was the gorge, nearer and bleaker 
rose the mountains, steeper and more palpable became the 
ascent, keener and crisper grew the air, as the evening 
fell upon us pursuing our devious way. The valleys were 
not only insignificant but widely separated by tracts 
through which the road had with difficulty and at much 
expense been cut out of the mountain side without infring- 
ing on the impetuous torrent that tumbled and foamed by 
our side ; and even where little valleys or glens still 
existed it was clear that Nature no longer responded with 
alacrity and abundance to the summons of human industry. 
The Vine no longer clung to the steep acclivities ; the 
summer foliage of the lower valleys had given place to 
dark evergreens where shrubbery could still find foot-hold 
and sustenance. The snow no longer skulked timorously 
behind the peaks of distant mountains, showing itself only 
on their northern declivities, but stood out boldly, un- 
blenchingly on all sides, and seemed within a musket-shot 
of our path. From slight depressions in the brows of the 
overhanging cliffs, streamlets leaped hundreds of feet in 
silvery recklessness, falling in feathery foam by our side. 
I think I saw half a dozen of these cascades within a 
distance of three miles. 

At length, near ten o'clock, we reached the foot of 
Mount Cenis, where sinuosity of course could avail us no 
further. We must now face the music. Our five tired 
horses were exchanged for eight fresh ones, and we com- 
menced the slow, laborious ascent of some six or eight 
miles. Human habitations had already become scattered 
and infrequent ; but we passed three or four in ascending 
the mountain. Their inmates of course live upon the 
travel, in one way or another, for Sterility is here the 
inexorable law. Yet our ascent was not so steep as might 



A RIDE ACROSS THE ALPS. 173 

be expected, being modified, when necessary, by zig-zags 
from one direction or one side of the chasm we followed 
to the other. The horses were stopped to breathe but 
once only ; elsewhere for three hours or more they pursued 
their firm, deliberate, decided, though slow advance. The 
shrubbery dwindled as we ascended and at length disap- 
peared, save in the sheltered gorges ; the snow came 
nearer and spread over still larger spaces ; at length, it 
lay in heavy beds or masses, half melted into ice, just by 
the side of the road and on its edge, though I think there 
was none actually under the wheels. Finally, a little 
before one o'clock, we reached the summit, and the moon 
from behind the neighboring cliff burst upon us fully two 
hours high. Two or three houses stood here for the use 
of travelers ; around them nothing but snow and the naked 
planet. Before us lay the valley of the Po, the great plain 
of Upper Italy. 

Six of our horses were here detached and sent back to 
the Savoy base of the mountain, while with the two 
remaining we commenced our rapid and dashing descent. 
Mount Cenis is decidedly steeper on this side than on the 
other ; it is only surmounted by a succession of zig-zags so 
near each other that I think we traveled three miles in 
making a direct progress of one, during which we must 
have descended some 1,500 feet. Daylight found us at the 
foot with the level plain before us, and at 8 o'clock, a. m. 
we were in Turin. 



XXI. 
SARDINIA— ITALY— FREEDOM. 

Genoa (Italy), June 22, 1851. 
The Kingdom of Sardinia was formed, after the over 
throw of Napoleon, by the union of Genoa and its depen- 
dencies, with the former Kingdom of Piedmont and Savoy 
including the island of Sardinia, to whose long exiled Royal 
house was restored a dominion thus extended. That 
dominion has since stood unchanged, and may be roughly 
said to embrace the North- Western fourth of Italy, includ- 
ing Savoy, which belongs geographically to Switzerland, 
but which forms a very strong barrier against invasion 
from the side of France. Savoy is almost entirely watered 
by tributaries of the Rhone, and so might be said to be- 
long naturally to France rather than to Italy, regarding 
the crests of the Alps as the proper line of demarcation 
between them. Its trade, small at any rate, is of necessity 
mainly with France ; very slightly, save on the immediate 
sea-coast, with Genoa or Piedmont. Its language is French. 
Though peopled nearly to the limit of its capacity, the 
whole number of its inhabitants can hardly exceed Half 
a Million, nine-tenths of its entire surface being covered 
with sterile, intractable mountains. Savoy must always 
be a poor country, with inconsiderable commerce or ma- 
nufactures (for though its water-power is inexhaustible, 
its means of communication must ever be among the worst), 
pnd seems to have been created mainly as a barrier against 
that guilty ambition which impels rulers and chieftains to 



SARDINIA ITALY FREEDOM. 175 

covet and invade territories which reject and resist their 
sway. Alas that the Providential design, though so palpa- 
ble, should be so often disregarded ! Doubtless, the lives 
lost from age to age by mere hardship, privation and ex- 
posure, during the passage of invading armies through 
Savoy, would outnumber the whole present population of 
the country. 

Descending the Alps to the east or south into Piedmont, 
a new world lies around and before you. You have passed 
in two hours from the Arctic circle to the Tropics — from 
Lapland to Cuba. The snow-crested mountains are still 
in sight, and seem in the, clear atmosphere to be very 
near you even when forty or fifty miles distant, but you 
are traversing a spacious plain which slopes imperceptibly 
to the Po, and is matched by one nearly as level on the 
other side. This great plain of upper Italy, with the Po 
in its center, commences at the foot of the lower Alps 
very near the Mediterranean, far west of Turin and of 
Genoa, and stretches across the widest portion of the 
peninsula till it is lost in the Adriatic. The western half 
of this great valley is Piedmont ; the eastern is Lombardy. 
Its fertility and facility of cultivation are such that even 
Italian unthrift and ignorance of Agriculture are unable 
to destroy the former or nullify the latter. I never saw 
better Wheat, Grass, and Barley, than in my journey of a 
hundred miles across this noble valley of the Po, or Pied- 
mont, and the Indian Corn, Potatoes, &c, are less pro- 
mising only because of the amazing ignorance of their 
requirements evinced by nine-tenths of the cultivators. In 
the first place, the land is not plowed half deep enough; 
next, most of it is seldom or never manured ; thirdly, it is 
planted too late ; and fourthly, three or four times as much 
seed is planted as should be. I should judge that twenty 
seed potatoes, or kernels of corn, to each square yard is 
about the average, while five of either is quite enough. 
Then both, but especially Corn, are billed up, sugar-loaf 



176 GLANCES AT EUROPE. 

fashion, until the height of each hill is about equal to its 
breadth at the base, so that two days' hot sun dries the 
hill completely through, while there is no soil a foot from 
each stalk for its roots to run in. From such perverse 
cultivation, a good yield is impossible. There has been 
no rain of consequence here for some weeks, whence 
Wheat and Barley are ripening too rapidly, while Corn, 
Potatoes and Vegetables suffer severely from drouth, when 
with deeper plowing and rational culture everything would 
have been verdant and flourishing. Yet this great plain in 
some parts is and in most might be easily and bountifully 
irrigated from the innumerable mountain streams which 
traverse it on their way to the Po. I never saw another 
region wherein a few Sub-soil Plows, with men qualified 
to use them and to set forth the nature and advantages of 
skillful cultivation generally, are so much wanted as in 
Piedmont. 

The Vine is of course extensively cultivated in Pied- 
mont, as everywhere in Italy, but not so universally as in 
the hilly, rocky region extending from the great valley to 
this city (some thirty or forty miles). This has a warm 
though a thin soil, which must be highly favorable to the 
Vine to in luce so exclusive a devotion to it. I think 
half of the arable soil I saw between this and Arquata, 
where the plain and (for the present) the Railroad stop, 
and the hills and the diligence begin, was devoted to the 
Grape ; while from the steeple of the Carignani Church, 
which I ascended last evening, the semi-circle of tower- 
ing, receding hill-sides which invests Genoa landward, 
seems covered with the Vine, and even the Gardens 
within the town are nearly given up to it. The Fig, the 
Orange, the Almond, are also native here or in the 
vicinity. 

This kingdom is to-day, after France, the chief point 
of interest in continental Europe for lovers of Human 
Liberty. Three years ago, under the impulse of the gene- 



SARDINIA ITALY FREEDOM. 177 

ral uprising of the Nations, its rulers entered upon a course 
of policy in accordance with the wants and demands of the 
age, and that policy is still adhered to, though meantime 
the general aspect of affairs is sadly changed, and Sardinia 
herself has experienced the sorest reverses. The weak, 
unstable King whose ambition first conspired to throw her 
into the current of the movement for the liberation of Italy, 
has died defeated and broken-hearted, but his wiser son 
and heir has taken his stand deliberately and firmly on the 
liberal side, and cannot be driven from his course. His 
policy, as proclaimed in his memorable Speech from the 
Throne on the assembling of the present Chambers, is "to 
rear Free Institutions in the midst of surrounding ruins." 
A popular Assembly, in which the Ministry have seats, 
directs and supervises the National Policy, which is 
avowedly and efficiently directed toward the vigorous pro- 
secution of Reforms in every department. Absolute Free- 
dom in matters of Religion has already been established, 
and the long crushed and persecuted Vaudois or Waldenses 
rejoice in the brighter day now opening before them. 
Their simple worship is not only authorized and protected 
in their narrow, secluded Alpine valleys, but it is openly 
and regularly conducted also in Turin, the metropolis, 
where they are now endeavoring to erect a temple which 
shall fitly set forth the changed position of Protestantism 
in Northern Italy. They are still few and poor, and will 
apply to their brethren in America for pecuniary aid, which 
I trust will be granted expressly on condition that the 
church thus erected shall be open, when not otherwise 
required, to any Protestant clergyman who produces ample 
testimonials of his good standing with his own denomina- 
tion at home. Such a church in Turin would be of incal- 
culable service to the cause of Human Emancipation from 
the shackles of Force, Prescription and Tradition through- 
out Italy and the Eastern World. 

The Freedom of the Press is established in this kingdom, 



178 GLANCES AT EUROPE. 

yet no single journal of the Reactionist type is issued, 
because there is no demand for one. The only division 
of political sentiment is that which separates the more 
impetuous Progressives, or avowed Democrats, from the 
1 -,rger number (apparently) who believe it wiser and safer 
* hold fast by King and Constitution, especially since the 
'"onarch is among the most zealous and active in the 
mse of Progress and Reform. I think these are right, 
though their opponents have ample justification in History, 
even the most recent, for their distrust of the liberal pro- 
fessions and seemings of Royalty. But were the King 
and all his House to abdicate and leave the country to- 
morrow, I believe that would be a disastrous step for Sar- 
dinia and for Human Liberty. For this kingdom is almost 
walled in by enemies — Austria, Tuscany, Rome (alas !) 
and Naples — all intensely hating it and seeking its down- 
fall because of the Light and Hope which its policy and its 
example are diffusing among the nations. With the Pope 
it is directly at variance, on questions of contested juris- 
diction deemed vital alike by the Spiritual and the Tem- 
poral power ; and repeated efforts at adjustment have only 
resulted in repeated failures. This feud is of itself a source 
of weakness, since ninety-nine in every hundred of the 
population are at least nominally Roman Catholic, and the 
great mass of the Peasantry intensely so, while the Priest- 
hood naturally side with the Ecclesiastical as against the 
Political contestant. And behind Austria, notoriously 
hostile to the present policy of Sardinia, stands the black, 
colossal shadow of the Autocrat, with no power east of 
the Rhine and the Adriatic able or willing to resist him, 
and only waiting for an excuse to pour his legions over 
the sunny plains of Southern Europe. A Democratic 
Revolution in Sardinia, no matter how peacefully effected, 
would inevitably, while France is crippled as at present, 
be the signal (as with Naples and Spain successively some 
twenty-five to thirty years ago) for overwhelming invasion 



SARDINIA ITALY FREEDOM. 179 

in the interest and by the forces of utter Despotism. Well 
informed men believe that if the present King were to 
abdicate to-morrow, he would immediately be chosen Pre- 
sident by an immense majority of the People. 

Yet there is an earnest, outspoken Democratic party in 
Sardinia, and this city is its focus. Genoa, in fact, has 
never been reconciled to the decree which arbitrarily 
merged her political existence in that of the present King- 
dom. She fondly cherishes the recollection of her ancient 
opulence, power and glory, and remembers that in her day 
of greatness she was the center and soul of a Republic. 
Hence her Revolutionary struggle in 1848 ; hence the 
activity and boldness of her Republican propaganda now. 
To see Italy a Federal Republic, whereof Piedmont, Savoy, 
Genoa and Sardinia should be separata and sovereign 
States, along with Venice, Lombardy, Tuscany, Rome, 
Naples, &c, would best satisfy her essential aspirations. 

Yet Genoa is clearly benefited by her present political 
connection. From her lovely bay, she looks out over the 
Mediterranean, Corsica, Sardinia, Africa and the Levant, 
but has scarcely a glimpse of the continent of Italy. No 
river bears its products to her expectant wharves ; only 
the most insignificant mill-streams brawl idly down to her 
harbor and the adjacent shore ; steep, naked mountains 
rise abruptly behind her, scarcely allowing room for her 
lofty edifices and narrow streets ; while from only a few 
miles back the waters are hurrying to join the Po and be 
borne away by that rapid, unnavigable stream to the 
furthest limit of Italy. No commercial City was ever 
more hardly dealt with by Nature on the land side than 
Genoa; no one ever stood more in need of intimate politi- 
cal connections suggestive of and cemented by works of 
Internal improvement. These she is now on the point 
of securing. A very tolerable Railroad has already been 
constructed from Turin to Arquata, some seventy miles 
on the way to Genoa, and the remaining thirty odd miles 



180 GLANCES AT EUROPE. 

are now under contract, to be completed in 1852. The 
portion constructed was easy, while the residue is exceed- 
ingly difficult, following the valleys of impetuous mountain 
torrents, which to-day discharge each minute five gallons 
and to-morrow five thousand hogsheads. These valleys 
(or rather clefts) are quite commonly so narrow and their 
sides so steep and rock-bound that the Railroad track has 
to be raised several feet on solid masonry to preserve it 
from being washed away by the floods which follow every 
violent or protracted rain. Expensive arches to admit the 
passage of the streams whenever crossed, and of the roads, 
are also numerous, so that these thirty miles, in spite of 
the abundance and cheapness of Labor here, will cost at 
least Three Millions of Dollars. Yet the road will pay 
when in full operation, and will prove a new day-spring 
of prosperity to Genoa. From Turin, branches or feeders 
will run to the Alps in various directions, benefiting that 
city considerably, but Genoa infinitely more, since nine- 
tenths of the produce even of Piedmont will run past 
Turin, without unloading, to find purchasers and exporters 
here. A coal-mine of promise has just been discovered at 
Aosta, at the foot of the Alps, to which one of these 
branches is to be constructed. Genoa is now jealous of 
Turin's political ascendency, which is just as sensible-as 
would be jealousy of Albany on the part of New- York. 
Even already, though it has not come near her, the Rail- 
road is sensibly improving her trade and industry ; and 
whenever it shall have reached her wharves every mile 
added to its extent or to that of any of its branches will 
add directly and largely to the commerce and wealth of 
this city. In time this Road will connect with those 
of France and Germany, by a tunnel through some one of 
the Alps (Mount Cenis is now under consideration), but, 
even without that, whenever it shall have reached the 
immediate base of the Alps on this side and been responded 
to by similar extensions of the French and Rhine-valley 



SARDINIA ITALY FREEDOM. 181 

Railroads on the other, Genoa will supplant Marseilles 
while continuing preferable to Trieste as the point of 
embarkation lor Cairo and Suez on the direct route from 
England and Paris for India, China and Southern Asia 
generally, and can only be superseded in that preeminence 
by a railroad running hence or from Lake Maggiore and 
Milan direct to Naples or Salerno — a work of whose con- 
struction through so many petty and benighted principali- 
ties there is no present probability. 

Still, Sardinia has very much before her unaccomplish- 
ed. She needs first of all things an efficient and compre- 
hensive system of Popular Education. With the enormous 
superabundance of Sixty Thousand Priests and other Ec- 
clesiastics to a generally poor population of Four Millions, 
she has not to-day five thousand teachers, good, bad and 
indifferent, of elementary and secular knowledge. These 
black-coated gentry fairly overshadow the land with their 
shovel hats, so that Corn has no fair chance of sunshine. 
The Churches of this City alone must have cost Ten 
Millions of Dollars — for you cannot walk a hundred steps 
without passing one ; and the wealth lavished in their con- 
struction and adornment exceeds all belief — while all the 
common school-houses in Genoa would not bring fifty- 
thousand dollars. The best minds of the country are now 
pondering the urgent necessity of speedily establishing 
a system of efficient Popular Education. 

But the Nation is deeply in debt, and laboring under 
heavy burdens. Its Industry is inefficient, its Commerce 
meager, its Revenues slender, while the imminent peril of 
Austrian invasion compels the keeping up of an Army of 
Fifty Thousand effective men ready to take the field at a 
moment's warming. But for the notorious and active 
hostility of three-fourths of Continental Europe to the 
liberal policy of its rulers, Sardinia might dispense with 
three-fourths of this force and save its heavy cost for 
Education and Internal Improvement. As things are, 



182 GLANCES AT EUROPE. 

women must toil in the fields while Physical and Mental 
Improvement must wait in order that the Nation may 
sustain in virtual idleness Fifty Thousand Soldiers and 
Sixty Thousand Priests. 

Yet mighty are the blessings of Freedom, even under 
the greatest disadvantages. Turin is now increasing in 
Industry and Population with a rapidity unknown to its 
former history. Looking only at the new buildings just 
erected or now in progress, you might mistake it for an 
American city. Unless checked by future wars, Turin 
will double its population between 1850 and 18G0. Genoa 
has but recently and partially felt the new impulse, yet 
even here the march of improvement is visible. Three 
years more of peace will witness the substitution for its 
long period of stagnation and decay of an activity surpass- 
ed by that of no city in Europe. 

Turin is eligibly located and well built, most of the 
houses being large, tall, and the walls of decided strength 
and thickness ; but Genoa is even superior in most respects 
if not in all. I never saw so many churches so admirably 
constructed and so gorgeously, laboriously ornamented as 
the half dozen I visited yesterday and this morning. My 
guide says there are sixty churches in Genoa (a city about 
the size of Boston, though with fewer houses and a much 
smaller area than Brooklyn), and that they are nearly all 
built and adorned with similar if not equal disregard of 
cost. A modest, graceful monument to Christopher Co- 
lumbus, the Genoese discoverer of America, was one of 
the first structures that met my eye on entering the city, 
and an eating-house in the square of the chief theater is 
styled " Cafe Restaurant a l'lmmortel Chr. Columbo," or 
something very near that. I never before saw so many 
admirable specimens of costly and graceful architecture as 
have arrested my attention in wandering through the 
streets of Genoa. At least half the houses were construct- 
ed for the private residences of " merchant princes " in 



SARDINIA ITALY FREEDOM. 183 

the palmy days of " Genoa the Superb/' and their wealth 
would seem to have been practically boundless. The 
" Hotel de Londres," in which I write, was originally a 
convent, and no house in New- York can vie with it in the 
massiveness of its walls, the hight of its ceilings, &c. My 
bed-room, appropriately furnished, would shame almost 
any American parlor or drawing-room. All around me 
testifies of the greatness that has been ; who shall say that 
it is not soon to return ? The narrow streets (very few 
of them passable by carriages) and uneven ground-plot are 
the chief drawbacks on this magnificence ; but the city 
rises so regularly and gracefully from the harbor as to seem 
like a glorious amphitheater, and the inequality, so weari- 
some to the legs, is a beauty and a pleasure to the eye. It 
gives, besides, opportunity for the finest Architectural 
triumphs. The Carignani Church is approached by a 
massive bridge thrown across a ravine, from which you 
look down on the tops of seven-story houses, and I walked 
this morning in a public garden which looks down into a 
private one some sixty feet below it. The perpendicular 
stone wall which separates these gardens is at least five 
feet thick at the top, and must have cost an immense sum ; 
but in fact the whole city has been three times completely 
walled in, and the latest and most extensive of these walls 
is still in good condition, and was successfully defended by 
Massena in the siege of 1800, until Famine compelled him 
to surrender. May that stand recorded to the end of 
human history as the last siege of Genoa ! 



XXII. 

[This letter, written and mailed at Leghorn on the 24th, 
has never come to hand, having been entrusted to the 
tender mercies of the French mail which was to leave 
Leghorn next day by steamer for Marseilles, and thence 
be taken, via Paris, to Havre, and by steamship to this 
city. The wretched old apology for a steamship whereon 
I had reached Leghorn (80 miles) in eighteen hours from 
Genoa may not yet have completed her return passage 
between those ports, though I think she has ; but whether 
her officers know enough to receive and deliver a Mail- 
bag is exceedingly doubtful. If they did, I see not how 
my letter can have been stopped this side of Marseilles. I 
remember that it did particular justice to French Govern- 
ment steamships in the Mediterranean and to American 
Consuls in Italy, showing how our traveling countrymen are 
crucified between the worthlessness of the former and the 
rapacity of the latter. Our Consuls may well rejoice that 
said Letter XXII. comes up missing, and perhaps the 
Tuscan Police has cause to join in their exultation. 

This letter also gave some account of Leghorn, a well- 
built modern city, the only port of Tuscany, situated on a 
flat or marsh scarcely raised above the surface of the 
Mediterranean, and containing some 80,000 inhabitants. 
It has few or no antiquities, and not much to attract a 
traveler's attention. 

Some thirty miles inland in a north-easterly direction, is 
Pisa, once a very wealthy and powerful emporium of 
commerce, now a decaying inland town of no political 



PISA THE LEANING TOWER. 185 

importance, with perhaps 30,000 inhabitants. It lies on 
both sides of the Arno, several miles from the sea, and 1 
presume the river-bed has been considerably filled or 
choked up by sediment and rains since the days of Pisa's 
glory and power. Her wonderful Leaning Tower is 
worthy of all the fame it has acquired. It is a beautiful 
structure, though owing its dignity, doubtless, to some 
defect in its foundation or construction. The Cathedral 
of Pisa is a beautiful edifice, most gorgeous in its adorn- 
ments, and with by far the finest galleries I ever saw. 
Near these two structures is an extensive burial-place full 
of sculptures and inscriptions in memory of the dead, some 
of them 2500 years old, and thence reaching down to the 
present day. Had I not extended my trip to Rome, I 
should have brought home far more vivid and lasting 
impressions of Pisa, which has nevertheless an abiding 
niche in my memory. 

The day before my visit was the anniversary of the 
Patron Saint of Pisa, which is celebrated every fourth 
year with extraordinary pomp and festivity. This time, I 
was informed, the fire-works exploded at the public charge, 
in honor of this festival, cost over $100,000, though Pisa 
cannot afford to sustain Free Common Schools, or make 
any provision for the Education of her Children. Of 
course, she can afford to die, or is certain to do it, whether 
she can afford it or not. Pisa is located on a beautiful 
and fertile plain, and is surrounded by gardens, with fruit 
and ornamental trees ; but much of the soil between it and 
Leghorn is the property of the Grand Duke of Tuscany, 
who keeps it entirely in grass, affording subsistence to 
extensive and beautiful herds of Cattle, whence he derives 
a large income, being the chief milk-seller in his own 
dominions. So, at least, I was informed.] 



XXIII. 
FIRST DAY IN THE PAPAL STATES. 

Rome, Thursday, June 26, 1851. 

I left Leghorn night before last in the French steamer 
Languedoc, which could not obtain passengers in America, 
but is accounted one of the best boats on the Mediterranean. 
The fare to Civita Vecchia (125 miles) was 40 francs, but 
4 added for dinner (without saying " By your leave") made 
it $8 25. There were perhaps twenty-five passengers, main- 
ly for Naples, but eight or ten for Civita Vecchia and Rome, 
although it is everywhere said that " Nobody goes to Rome 
at this season," meaning nobody that is anybody — none 
who can afford to go when they would choose. The night 
was fair ; the sea calm ; we left Leghorn at 6 (nominally 5) 
and reached Civita Vecchia about 5 next morning ; but 
were kept on board waiting the pleasure of the Police 
until about 7, when we were graciously permitted to land, 
our Passports having been previously sent on shore for 
inspection. No steamboat in these waters is allowed to 
come alongside of the wharf; so w T e paid a franc each for 
being rowed ashore ; then as much more to the porters 
who carried our baggage on their backs to the custom- 
house, where a weary hour was spent in overhauling and 
sealing it, so that it need not be overhauled again on enter- 
ing the gate of Rome. For this service a trifle only was 
exacted from each. Meantime a "commissionaire" had 
gone after our Passports, for which we paid first the charge 
of the Papal Police, which I think was about three francs ; 



FIRST DAY IN THE PAPAL STATES. 187 

then for the vise of our several Consuls, we Americans a 
dollar each, which (though but half what is charged by our 
Consuls at other Italian ports) is more than is charged by 
those of any other nation. Then came the charge of our 
" commissionaire" for his services. We took breakfast ; 
but that, though a severe, was not a protracted infliction ; 
hired places in the Diligence (13 francs in the coupe, 10 in 
the body of the stage), and at half-past 10 were to have 
been on our way to Rome. But the start was rather late, 
and on reaching the gates of that wretched village, which 
seems to subsist mainly on such petty swindles as I have 
hastily described, our Passports, which had been thrice 
scrutinized that morning within sixty rods, had to run the 
gauntlet again. I do not remember paying for this, but 
while detained by it the ostlers from the stables of our 
Diligence were all upon us, clamoring for money. I think 
they got little. But we changed horses thrice on the way 
to Rome, and each postillion was down upon us for money, 
and out of all patience with those passengers who attempted 
to put him off with copper. 

Aside from those engaged in fleecing us as aforesaid, I 
saw but three sorts of men in Civita Vecchia — or rather, 
men pursuing three several avocations — those of Priests, 
Soldiers and Beggars. Some united two of these callings. 
A number of brown, bare-headed, wretched-looking women 
were washing clothes in the hot sun of the sea-side, but I 
saw no trace of masculine industry other than what I have 
described. The place is said to contain 7,000 inhabitants, 
but I think there is scarcely a garden outside its walls. 

Half the way thence to Rome, the road runs along the 
shore of the Mediterranean, through a naturally fertile and 
beautiful champaign country, once densely peopled and 
covered with elegant structures, the homes of intelligence, 
refinement and luxury. Now there is not a garden, 
scarcely a tree, and not above ten barns and thirty human 
habitations in sight throughout the whole twenty-five miles. 



188 GLANCES AT EUROPE. 

Such utter desolation and waste, in a region so eligibly 
situated, can with difficulty be realized without seeing it. 
I should say it can hardly here be unhealthy, with the pure 
Mediterranean directly on one side, the rugged hills but 
two to five miles distant on the other, and the plain between 
very much less marshy than the corresponding district of 
New-Jersey stretching along the coast from New- York to 
Perth Amboy. A few large herds of neat cattle are fed 
on these plains, considerable grass is cut, and some sum- 
mer grain ; but stables for post-horses at intervals of five 
or six miles, with perhaps as many dilapidated stone dwell- 
ings and a few wretched herdsmen's huts of straw or 
rubbish, are all the structures in sight, save the bridges of 
the noble "Via Aurelia" which we traversed, the ruins 
of some of the stately edifices once so abundant here, and 
the mile-stones. There is not even one tavern of the half 
dozen pretenders to the name between Civita Vecchia and 
Rome which would be considered tolerable in the least 
civilized portion of Arkansas or Texas. 

Half way to Rome, the road strikes off from the sea, 
and there is henceforth more cultivation, more grain, better 
crops (though all this land produces excellently both of 
Wheat and Barley, and of Indian Corn also where the 
cultivation is not utterly suicidal), but still there are very 
few houses and those generally poor, the wretchedest cari- 
catures of taverns on one of the great highways of the 
world, no gardens nor other evidences of aspiration for 
comfort and natural beauty, few and ragged trees, and 
the very few inhabitants are so squalid, so abject, so 
beggarly, that it seems a pity they were not fewer. And 
this state continues, except that the grain-crops grow 
larger and better, up to within a mile or two of the gates 
of Rome, which thus seems another Palmyra in the Desert, 
ouly that this is a desert of man's making. I presume the 
twenty-five or thirty miles at this end is unhealthy, even 
for natives, but it surely need not be so. All this Campagna, 



FIRST DAY IN THE PAPAL STATES. 189 

with the more pestilent Pontine Marshes on the south, 
which are now scourging Rome with their deadly malaria 
and threaten to render it ultimately uninhabitable, were 
once salubrious and delightful, and might readily be made 
so again. If they were in England, Old or New, near a 
city of the size of this, they would be trenched, dyked, 
drained, and reconverted into gardens, orchards and model- 
farms within two years, and covered with dwellings, man- 
sions, country-seats, and a busy, energetic, thrifty popula- 
tion before 1860. A tenth part of the energy and devotedness 
displayed in the attempts to wrest Jerusalem from the 
Infidels would rescue Rome from a fate not less appalling. 
We ought by contract to have arrived here at half past 
six last evening; we actually reached the gates at half 
past eight or a little later. There our Passports were 
taken from us, and carried into the proper office ; but 
word came back that all was not right ; we must go in 
personally. We did so, and found that what was wanted 
to make all right was money. There was not the smallest 
pretext for this — no Barbary pirate ever had less — as we 
were not to get our Passports, but must wait their approval 
by a higher authority and then go and pay for it. We 
submitted to the swindle, however, for we were tired, the 
hour late, we had lodgings yet to seek, and the night-air 
here is said to be very unwholesome for strangers. This 
difficulty obviated, another presented itself. The Custom- 
House stood on the other side of the street, and word 
came that we were wanted there also, though our slender 
carpet-bags had been regularly searched and sealed by the 
Roman functionaries at Civita Vecchia expressly to obvi- 
ate any pretext for scrutiny or delay here. No use — 
money. By this time, change and patience were getting 
scarce in our company. We tried to get off* cheap ; but 
it wouldn't do. Finally, rather than stay out till midnight 
in the malaria, I put down a five-franc-piece, which was 
accepted and we were let go. Still for form's sake, our 

9* 



190 GLANCES AT EUROPE. 

baggage was fumbled over, but not opened, and one or 
two more heads looked in at the window for " qualche 
cosa" but we gave nothing, and soon got away. 

We had paid thirteen francs each for a ride of fifty miles 
over a capital road, where horses and feed are abundant, 
and must be cheap ; but now our postillion came down 
upon us for more money for taking us to a hotel ; and as 
we could do no better, we agreed to give him four francs 
to set down four of us (all the Americans and English he 
had) at one hotel. He drove by the Diligence Office, how- 
ever, and there three or four rough customers jumped 
unbidden on the vehicle, and, when we reached our hotel, 
made themselves busy with our little luggage, which we 
would have thanked them to let alone. Having obtained 
it, we settled with the postillion, who grumbled and scolded 
though we paid him more than his four francs. Then 
came the leader of our volunteer aids, to be paid for taking 
down the luggage. I had not a penny of change left, but 
others of our company scraped their pockets of a handful 
of coppers, which the " facchini" rejected with scorn, 
throwing them after us up stairs (I hope they did not pick 
them up afterwards), and I heard their imprecations until 
I had reached my room, but a blessed ignorance of Italian 
shielded me from any insult in the premises. Soon my 
two light carpet-bags, which I was not allowed to carry, 
came up with a fresh demand for porterage. " Don't you 
belong to the hotel ?" " Yes." " Then vanish instantly !" 
I shut the door in his face, and let him growl to his heart's 
content ; and thus closed my first day in the more especial 
dominions of His Holiness Pius IX. 



XXIV. 
THE ETERNAL CITY. 

Rome, Friday, June 27, 1851. 

Rome is mighty even in her desolation. I knew the 
world had nothing like her, and yet the impression she has 
made on me, at the first view, is unexpectedly great. I 
do not yet feel able to go wandering from one church, mu- 
seum, picture or sculpture gallery to another, from morn- 
ing till night, as others do : I need to pause and think. Of 
course, I shall leave without seeing even a tenth part of 
the objects of decided interest; but if I should thus be 
enabled to carry away any clear and abiding impression 
of a small part, I shall prefer this to a confused and foggy 
perception of a greater multiplicity of details. 

That single view of the Eternal City, from the tower 
of the Capitol, is one that I almost wish I had given up the 
first day to. The entire of Rome and its inhabited 
suburbs lies so fully and fairly before the eye, with the 
Seven Hills, the Coliseum, the Pantheon, the Obelisks, the 
Pillars, the Vatican, the Castle of St. Angelo, the various 
Triumphal Arches, the Churches, &c, &c, around you, 
that it seems the best use that could be made of one day 
to simply move from look-out to look-out in that old tower, 
using the glass for a few moments and then pausing for 
reflection. I have half a mind thus to spend one of my 
three remaining days. True, the Coliseum will seem 
vaster close at hand, but from no point can it be seen so 
completely and clearly, in its immensity and its dilapida- 



192 GLANCES AT EUROPE. 

tion combined, as from that. The Tarpeian Rock seems 
an absurd fable — its fatal leap the daily sport of infants — 
but in all ancient cities the same glaring discrepancy 
between ancient and modern altitudes is presented, and 
especially, we hear, at Jerusalem. The Seven Hills 
whereon Rome was built are all distinguishable, visible to- 
day ; but they are undoubtedly much lower than at first, 
while all the intervening valleys have been filling up 
through centuries. Monkish traditions say that what is 
now the basement of the Church of Sts. Peter and Paul 
(not the modern St. Peter's) was originally on the level 
of the street, and this is quite probable : though I did not 
so readily lubricate the stories I was told in that basement 
to-day of St. Peter, Paul and Luke having tenanted this 
basement, Paul having lived and preached here for the 
first two years of his residence in Rome ; and when they 
showed me the altar at which St. Paul was wont to mi- 
nister, I stopped short and didn't try to believe any more. 
But this soil is thickly sown with marvels and very 
productive. 

St. Peter's, or at least its Dome, was in sight through 
the greater part of the last eleven or twelve miles of our 
journey to the city ; from most other directions it is 
doubtless visible at a much greater distance. I have of 
course seen the immense structure afar off, as well as 
glanced at it in passing by night ; but I am not yet prepar- 
ed to comprehend its vast proportions. I mean to visit it 
last before leaving Rome, so as to carry away as uncloud- 
ed an impression of it as possible. 

Of the three hundred and sixty-five Churches of Rome, 
I have as yet visited but four, and may find time to see as 
many more of the most noteworthy. They seem richei 
in Sculpture, Porphyry, Mosaic, Carving, Tapestry, &c. 
than anything elsewhere well can be ; but not equai 
in Architecture to the finest Churches in Genoa, the 
Cathedral at Pisa, and I think not externally to Notre 



THE ETERNAL CITY. 193 

Dame at Paris. Indeed, though large portions of the 
present Rome are very far from ruinous, and some of them 
quite modern and fresh-looking, yet the general Architec- 
ture of the city is decidedly inferior to that of Genoa, and 
I should say even to that of Leghorn. In making this 
comparison, I of course leave out of the account St. 
Peter's and the Churches of both cities, and refer mainly 
to private architecture, in which Rome is not transcendent 
— certainly not in Italy. The streets here are rather wide 
for an Italian city, but would be deemed intolerably narrow 
in America. 

As to Sculpture and Painting, I am tempted to say that 
if mankind were compelled to choose between the destruc- 
tion of what is in Rome or that of all the rest in the 
world, the former should be saved at the expense of the 
latter. Adequate conception of the extent, the variety, 
the excellence of the works of Art here heaped together 
is impossible. If every house on Broadway were a gallery, 
the whole six miles of them (counting both sides of the 
street) might be filled from Rome with Pictures, Statues, 
&c. of decided merit. 

What little I have seen does not impress me with the 
superiority of Ancient over Modern Art. Of course, if 
you compare the dozen best things produced in twenty 
centuries against a like number chosen from the produc- 
tions of the last single century, you will show a superiority 
on the part of the former ; but that decides nothing. The 
Capitoline Venus is a paragon, but there is no collection 
of ancient sculpture which will compare with the extensive 
gallery of heads by Canova alone. When benignant Time 
shall have done his appointed work of covering with the 
pall of oblivion the worse nineteen twentieths of the pro- 
ductions of the modern chisel, the genuine successes of the 
Nineteenth Century will shine out clearer and brighter 
than they now do. So, I trust, with Painting, though I do 
not know what painter of our age to place on a perilous 



194 GLANCES AT EUROPE. 

eminence with Canova as the champion or representative 
of Modern as compared with Ancient Art. 

It is well that there should be somewhere an Emporium 
of the Fine Arts, yet not well that the heart should absorb 
all the blood and leave the limbs destitute. I think Rome 
las been grasping with regard to works of Art, and in 
some instances unwisely so. For instance, in a single 
private gallery I visited to-day, there were not less than 
twenty decidedly good pictures by Anibal Caracci — pro- 
bably twice as many as there are in all the world out of 
Italy. That gallery would scarcely miss half of these, 
which might be fully replaced by as many modern works 
of equal merit, whereby the gallery and Rome would lose 
nothing, while the world outside w T ould decidedly gain. It 
Rome would but consider herself under a sort of moral 
responsibility to impart as well as receive, and would 
liberally dispose of so many of her master-pieces as would 
not at all impoverish her, buying in return such as could 
be spared her from abroad, and would thus enrich her col- 
lections by diversifying them, she would render the cause 
of Art a signal service and earn the gratitude of mankind, 
without the least prejudice to her own permanent well- 
being. It is in her power to constitute herself the center 
of an International Art- Union really worthy of the name 
—to establish a World's Exhibition of Fine Arts unequal- 
ed in character and beneficence. Is it too much to hope 
that she will realize or surpass this conception ? 

These suggestions, impelled by what I have seen to-day, 
are at all events much shorter than I could have made 
any detailed account of my observations. I have no 
qualifications for a critic in Art, and make no pretensions 
to the character, even had my observations been less 
hurried than they necessarily were. I write only for the 
great multitude, as ill-instructed in this sphere as I cheer- 
fully admit myself, and who yet are not unwilling to learn 
what impression is made by the treasures of Rome on one 
like themselves. 



THE COLISEUM. 195 



THE COLISEUM. 



Evening. 

I spent the forenoon wandering through the endless halls 
of the Vatican, so far as they were accessible to the public, 
the more important galleries being only open on Monday, 
and two or three of the very finest not at all. I fear this 
restriction will deprive me of a sight of the Apollo Belvi- 
dere, the Sistine Chapel, and one or two others of the 
world's marvels. I know how ungracious it is to "look a 
gift horse in the mouth/' and yet, since these works exist 
mainly to be seen, and as Rome derives so large a share 
of her income from the strangers whom these works attract 
to her, I must think it unwise to send any away regretting 
that they were denied a sight of the Apollo or of some of 
Raphael's master-pieces contained in the Vatican. I know 
at what vast expense these works have been produced or 
purchased, and, though all who visit Rome are made to 
pay a great deal indirectly for the privileges they enjoy 
here, yet I wish the Papal Government would frankly 
exact, as I for one should most cheerfully pay, a fair price 
for admission to the most admirable and unrivaled collec- 
tions which are its property. It] for instance, it would 
abolish all Passport vexations, encourage the opening of 
Railroads, and stimulate the establishment of better lines 
of Diligences, &c, so that traveling in the Papal States 
would cease to be twice as dear and infinitely slower 
than elsewhere in Italy, in France or Germany, and would 
then charge each stranger visiting Rome on errands other 
than religious something like five dollars for all that is to 
be seen here, taking care to let him see it, and to cut off 
all private importunities for services rendered in showing 
them, the system would be a great improvement on the 
present, and the number of strangers in Rome would be 
rapidly doubled and quadrupled. There might be some 



190 GLANCES AT EUROPE. 

calumny and misrepresentation, but these would very soon 
be dispelled, and the world would understand that the 
Papacy did not seek to make money out of its priceless 
treasures, but simply to provide equitably and properly for 
their preservation and due increase. Here, as we all see, 
have immense sums been already spent by this Govern- 
ment in excavating, preserving, and in some cases partially 
restoring such decayed but inimitable structures as the 
Coliseum, the Capitol, the various Triumphal Arches, the 
Baths of Titus, Caracalla, &c, all of which labors and 
expenditures we who visit Rome share the benefit, and it 
is but the simplest justice that we should contribute to 
defray the cost, especially when we know that every 
dollar so paid would be expended in continuing these 
excavations, &c, and in completing the galleries and 
other modern structures which are already so peerless. 
Rome is too commonly regarded as only a ruin, or, more 
strictly, as deriving all its eminence from the Past, while 
in fact it has more inestimable treasures, the product of 
our own century, our own day, than any other city, and I 
suspect nearly as many as all the rest of the world. Even 
the Vatican is still unfinished ; workmen were busy in it 
to-day, laying additional floors of variegated marble, 
putting up new book-cases, &c, none of them restorations, 
but all extensions of the Library, which, apart from the 
value of its books and manuscripts, is a unique and masterly 
exposition of ancient and modern Art. Here are single 
Vases, Tables, Frescoes, &c, which would be the pride 
of any other city : one large vase of Malachite, a present 
to Pius IX. from the Russian Autocrat, and unequaled out 
of Russia, if in the world. I should judge that three-fourths 
of the Frescoes which nearly cover the walls and ceiling 
of the fifteen or twenty large halls devoted to the Library 
are less than two centuries old. This part of the Vatican 
is approached through a magnificent corridor, probably 
five hundred feet long, with an arched ceiling entirely 



THE COLISEUM. 197 

inlaid with beautiful Mosaic, and the same is continued 
through another gallery some two hundred feet long, 
which leads at right angles from this to another wing of 
the edifice ; but the corridor leading down this wing, and 
facing that first named, has a naked, barren-looking ceiling 
evidently waiting to be similarly inlaid when time and 
means shall permit. This is but a specimen of what is 
purposed throughout ; and if the money which visitors 
leave in Rome could, in some small part at least, be 
devoted to these works, instead of being frittered away 
vexatiously and uselessly on petty extortioners, official and 
unofficial, the change would be a very great improvement. 
It does seem a shame that, where so much is necessarily 
expended, so little of it should be devoted to those still 
progressing works, from which are derived all this instruc- 
tion and intellectual enjoyment. 

Here let me say one word in justice to the princely 
families of Rome, whose palaces and immense collections 
of Paintings and Sculptures are almost daily open to 
strangers without charge, save the trifle that you choose 
to give the attendant who shows you through them. I 
looked for hours to-day through the ten spacious apart- 
ments of the Palace of the Orsini family devoted to the 
Fine Arts, as I had already done through that of the Doria 
family, and shall to-morrow do through others, and doubt- 
less might do through hundreds of others — ail hospitably 
open to every stranger on the simple condition that he 
shall deport himself civilly and refrain from doing any 
injury to the priceless treasures which are thus made his 
own without the trouble even of taking care of them. I 
know there are instances of like liberality elsewhere ; but 
is it anywhere else the rule ? and is it in our country even 
the exception ? What American ever thought of spending 
half an immense fortune in the collection of magnificent 
galleries of Pictures, Statues, &c, and then quietly opening 
the whole to the public without expecting a word of com- 



198 GLANCES AT EUROPE. 

pliment or acknowledgment in return ? — without being 
even personally known to those whom he thus bene- 
fited ? We have something to learn of Rome in this 
respect. Some of the English nobility whom the Press 
has shamed into following this munificent example have 
done it so grudgingly as to deprive the concession of all 
practical value. By requiring all who wish to visit their 
galleries to make a formal written application for the 
privilege, and await a written answer, they virtually restrict 
the favor to persons of leisure, position and education. 
But in Rome not even a card nor a name is required ; and 
you walk into a strange private palace as if you belonged 
there, lay down your stick or umbrella, and are shown 
from hall to hall by an intelligent, courteous attendant, 
study at will some of the best productions of Claude, 
Raphael, Salvator Rosa, Poussin, Murillo, &c, pay two 
shillings if you see fit, to the attendant, and are thanked 
for it as if you were a patron ; going thence to another 
such collection, and so for weeks, if you have time. If 
wealth were always thus employed, it were a pity that 
great fortunes are not more numerous. 

But I purpose to speak of the Coliseum. I will assume 
that most of my readers know that this was an immense 
amphitheater, constructed in the days of Rome's imperial 
creatness, used for dadiatorial combats of men with fero- 
cious beasts and with each other, and calculated to afford 
a view of the spectacle to about one hundred thousand 
persons at once. The circuit of the building is over six- 
teen hundred feet ; the arena in its center is about three 
hundred and eighty by two hundred and eighty feet. 
Most of the walls have fallen for perhaps half their height, 
though some part of them still retain very nearly their 
original altitude. In the darker ages, after this vast edi- 
fice had fallen into ruin, its materials were carried away 
by thousands and tens of thousands of tuns to build palaces 
and churches, and one side of the exterior wall was actually 



THE COLISEUM. 199 

for ages drawn upon as if it were a quarry. But in later 
years the Papal Government has disbursed thousands upon 
thousands in the uncovering and preservation of this stu- 
pendous ruin, and with the amplest success. The fall of 
its roof and a great portion of its walls had filled and buried 
it with rubbish to a depth of some twenty to forty feet, all 
of which has been taken away, so that the floor of the 
interior is now the veritable sand whereon the combatants 
fought and bled and rendered up their lives, while the forty 
or fifty entrances for emperors, senators and people, and 
even the underground passage for the introduction of the 
wild beasts, with a part of their cages, are now palpable. 
In some places, restorations have been made where they 
were necessary to avert the danger of further dilapidation, 
but as sparingly as possible ; and, though others think 
differently, the Coliseum seems to me as majestic and 
impressive in its utter desolation as it ever could have 
been in its grandeur and glory. 

We were fortunate in the hour of our visit. As we 
slowly made the circuit of the edifice, a body of French 
cavalry were exercising their horses along the eastern side 
of it, while at a little distance, in the grove or garden at 
the south, the quick rattle of the drum told of the evolu- 
tions of infantry. At length the horsemen rode slowly 
away to the southward, and our attention was drawn to 
certain groups of Italians in the interior, who were slowly 
marching and chanting. We entered, and were witnesses 
of a strange, impressive ceremony. It is among the tradi- 
tions of Rome that a great number of the early Christians 
were compelled by their heathen persecutors to fight and 
die here as gladiators as a punishment for their contuma- 
cious, treasonable resistance to the " lower law " then in the 
ascendant, which the high priests and circuit judges of 
that day were wont in their sermons and charges to 
demonstrate that every one was bound as a law-abiding 
citizen to obey, no matter what might be his private, per- 



200 GLANCES AT EUROPE. 

sonal convictions with regard to it. Since the Coliseum 
has been cleared of rubbish, fourteen little oratories or 
places of prayer have been cheaply constructed around its 
inner circumference, and here at certain seasons prayers 
are offered for the eternal bliss of the martyred Christians 
of the Coliseum. These prayers were being offered on this 
occasion. Some twenty or thirty men (priests or monks I 
inferred), partly bareheaded, but as many with their heads 
completely covered by hooded cloaks which left only two 
small holes for the eyes, accompanied by a larger number 
of women, marched slowly and sadly to one oratory, 
chanting a prayer by the way, setting up their lighted 
tapers by its semblance of an altar, kneeling and praying 
for some minutes, then rising and proceeding to the next 
oratory, and so on until they had repeated the service 
before every one. They all seemed to be of the poorer 
class, and I presume the ceremony is often repeated or the 
participators would have been much more numerous. 
The praying was fervent and I trust excellent, — as the 
music decidedly was not ; but the whole scene with the 
setting sun shining redly through the shattered arches and 
upon the ruined wall, with a few French soldiers standing 
heedlessly by, was strangely picturesque and to me affect- 
ing. I came away before it concluded, to avoid the damp 
night-air ; but many chequered years and scenes of stirring 
interest must intervene to efface from my memory that 
sunset and those strange prayers in the Coliseum. 



XX v 
ST. PETER'S. 

Rome, Saturday, June 29, 1851. 
St. Peter's is the Niagara of edifices, having the same 
relation to other master-pieces of human effort that the 
great cataract bears to other terrestrial effects of Divine 
power. In either case, the first view disappoints, because 
the perfection of symmetry dims the consciousness of 
magnitude, and the total absence of exaggeration in the 
details forbids the conception of vastness in the aggregate. 
In viewing London's St. Paul's, you have a realization of 
bulk which St. Peter's does not give, yet St. Paul's is but 
a wart beside St. Peter's. I do not know that the resem- 
blance has been noticed by others, but the semi-circle of 
gigantic yet admirably proportioned pillars which encloses 
the grand square in front of St. Peter's reminds me vividly 
of the general conformation of our great water-fall, while 
the column or obelisk in the center of the square (which 
column is a mistake, in my humble judgment, and should 
be removed) has its parallel in the unsightly tower over- 
looking the main cataract from the extreme point of 
Goat Island. Eternal endurance and repose may be fitly 
typified by the oceans and snow-crested mountains, but 
power and energy find their best expressions in the cata- 
ract and the dome. Time and Genius may produce other 
structures as admirable in their own way and regarded in 
connection with their uses ; but, viewed as a temple, 
St. Peter's will ever stand unmatched and unapproachable. 



202 GLANCES AT EUROPE. 

I chose the early morning for my first visit. The sky 
was cloudless, as it mainly is here save in winter, but the 
day was not yet warm, for the summer nights are cooler 
here than in New-York, and the current English talk of 
the excessive heat which prevails in Rome at this season 
is calculated to deceive Americans. No one fails to realize 
from the first the great beauty and admirable accessories 
of this edifice, with the far-stretching but quite other than 
lofty pile of the Vatican on its right and its own magnifi- 
cent colonnade in front, but you do not feel that it is lofty, 
nor spacious, nor anything but perfect. You ascend the 
steps, and thus gain some idea of the immense proportions 
prevailing throughout ; for the church seems scarcely at 
all elevated above the square, and yet many are the steps 
leading up to the doors. Crossing a grand porch with an 
arched roof of glorious mosaic, you find yourself in the 
body of the edifice, which now seems large and lofty indeed, 
but by no means unparalleled. But you walk on and on, 
between opposing pillars the grandest the world ever saw, 
the space at either side between any two pillars constitut- 
ing a separate chapel with its gorgeous altar, its grand 
pictures in mosaic, its sculptured saints and angels, each 
of these chapels having a larger area than any church I 
ever entered in America ; and by the time you have walked 
slowly and observingly to the front of the main altar you 
realize profoundly that Earth has nothing else to match 
with St. Peter's. No matter though another church were 
twice as large, and erected at a cost of twice the Thirty 
Millions of dollars and fifty years expended upon this, 
St. Peter's would still stand unrivaled. For every detail 
is so marvellously symmetrical that no one is dwarfed, no 
one challenges special attention. Of one hundred distinct 
parts, any one by itself would command your profoundest 
admiration, but everything around and beyond it is no less 
excellent, and you soon cease to wonder and remain to 
appreciate and enjoy. 



st. peter's. 203 

I devoted most of the day to St. Peter's, seeing it under 
many different aspects, but no other view of the interior 
is equal to that presented in the stillness and comparative 
solitude of the early morning. The presence of multitudes 
does not cloud your consciousness of its immensity, for ten 
thousand persons occupy no considerable portion of its 
area and might very easily be present yet wholly invisible 
to one who stood just inside the entrance and looked 
searchingly through the body of the edifice to find them ; 
but there are usually very few seats, and those for the 
privileged, so that hundreds are constantly moving from 
place to place through the day, which distracts attention 
and mars the feeling of repose and delighted awe which 
the naked structure is calculated to inspire. Go very early 
some bright summer morning, if you would see St. Peter's 
in its calm and stately grandeur. 

I ascended to the roof, and thence to the summit of the 
dome, but, apart from a profounder consciousness of the 
vastness and admirable proportions of the edifice, this is 
of little worth. True, the entire city and its suburbs lie 
clearly and fully beneath and around you ; but so they do 
from the tower of the Capitol. Views from commanding 
heights are obtained in almost every city. The ascent, 
however, as far as the roof, is easier than any other I ever 
found within a building. Instead of stairs, here is a circu- 
lar road, more like the ascent of a mountain than a Church. 
One single view is obtained, however, which richly com- 
pensates for the fatigue of the ascent. It is that from the 
interior of the dome down into the body of the Church 
below. The Alps may present grander, but I never expect 
to have another like this. 

Here I had personal evidence of the mean, reckless 
selfishness wherewith public edifices are regarded by too 
many, and the absolute necessity of constant, omnipresent 
watchfulness to preserve them from wanton dilapidation. 
Five or six French soldiers had been permitted to ascend 



204 GLANCES AT EUROPE. 

the dome just before J did, and came down nearly at the 
same time with me. As I stood gazing down from this 
point into the church below, two of these soldiers came in 
on their way down, and one of them, looking around to see 
that no one was present but a stranger, whipped the 
bayonet he wore out of its sheath, forced the point into 
the mosaic close behind as well as above us, pried out one 
of the square pieces of agate or some such stone of which 
that mosaic is composed, put it in his pocket and made off. 
I had no idea that he would deface the edifice until the 
moment he did it, and then hastily remonstrated, but of 
course without avail. I looked at the wall on which he 
operated, and found that two or three had preceded him 
in the same work of paltry but most outrageous robbery. 
Of course, each will boast of his exploit to his comrades 
of kindred spirit, and they will be templed to imitate it, 
until the mischief done becomes sufficiently serious to 
attract attention, and then Nobody will have a serious 
reckoning to encounter. A few acts of unobserved rapine 
as trifling as these may easily occasion some signal disas- 
ter. In an edifice like this, there should be no point 
accessible to visiters unwatched by a faithful guardian 
even for one hour. 

In the afternoon, I attended the Celebration of High 
Mass, this being observed by the Catholic world as St. 
Peter's Day, and the Pope himself officiating in the great 
Cathedral. Not understanding the service, I could not 
profit by it, and the spectacle impressed me unfavorably. 
Such a multiplicity of spears and bayonets seem to me 
strangely out of keeping in a place of worship ; if they 
belong here, why not bring in a regiment of horse and a 
park of artillery as well ? There is ample room for them 
in St. Peter's, and the cavalry might charge and the can- 
noniers fire a few volleys with little harm to the building, 
and with great increase both to the numbers and interest 
of the audience. I am not pretending to judge this for others, 



bt. peter's. 205 

but simply to state how it naturally strikes one educated in 
the simple, sober observances of Puritan New-England. 
I have heard of Protestants being converted in Rome, but 
it seems to me the very last place where the great body of 
those educated in really Protestant ways would be likely 
to undergo conversion. I have seen very much here to 
admire, and there is doubtless many times more such that 
I have not seen, but the radical antagonism of Catholic 
and Protestant ideas, observances and tendencies never 
before stood out in a light so clear and strong as that shed 
upon it by a few days in Rome. I obtained admission 
yesterday to the Sistine Chapel of the Vatican, and saw 
there, among the paintings in fresco, a representation of 
the death of Admiral Coligny at the Massacre of St. Bar- 
tholomew ; and if this were not intended to express appro- 
val of that horrible massacre, I would like to know what 
was meant by having it painted and placed there. 

But to return to St. Peter's. The entrance of the grand 
procession from the Vatican was a very slow process. In 
its ranks were the Noble Guard, the Swiss Guard, the 
Cardinals, and many other divisions, each in its own 
imposing and picturesque costume. At length came the 
Pope, seated in a magnificent chair on a raised platforrn 
or palanquin, the whole borne on the shoulders of some 
ten or twelve servitors. This was a capital arrangement 
for us strangers, who wished a good view of His Holiness ; 
but I am sure it was very disagreeable to him, and that he 
would much rather have walked like the rest. He passed 
into the church out of my sight, dismounted, and I (having 
also entered) next saw him approach one of the altars on 
the right, where he knelt and silently prayed for some 
minutes. He was then borne onward to his throne at the 
further end, and the service commenced. 

The singing of the Mass was very good. The Pope's 
reading I did not hear, nor was I near enough even to see 
him, except fitfully. I think there were more than five 



206 GLANCES AT EUROPE. 

thousand persons present, including a thousand priests and 
a thousand soldiers. There would doubtless have been 
many more, but for the fact that a smart shower occurred 
just before and at the hour (5 o'clock), while no public 
notice had been given that the Pope would officiate. 

In the evening, St. Peter's and its accessories were illu- 
minated — by far the most brilliant spectacle I ever saw. 
All was dark and silent till, at the first stroke of the bell, 
light flashed from a hundred thousand burners, and the 
entire front of the Church and Dome, up to the very sum- 
mit of the spire, was one magnificent galaxy, while the 
double row of gigantic pillars or columns surrounding the 
square was in like manner radiant with jets of flame. I 
thought the architecture of St. Peter's Rome's greatest 
glory when I had only seen it by daylight, yet it now 
seemed more wondrous still. The bells rang sweetly and 
stirringly throughout the evening, and there was a like 
illumination on the summit of the Pincian Hill, while most 
of the shops and dwellings displayed at least one row of 
burning candles, and bonfires blazed brightly in the streets, 
which were alive with moving, animated groups, while the 
square of St. Peter's and the nearest bridges over the Tiber 
were black with excited thousands. To-night we have fire- 
works from the Pincian in honor of St. Peter, which would 
be thought in New England an odd way of honoring an 
Apostle, especially on Sunday evening ; but whether Rome 
or Boston is right on this point is a question to be pon- 
dered. 

P. S. Monday. — I did not see the Fire- Works last 
evening, but almost every one else in Rome did, and the 
unanimous verdict pronounces them admirable — extraordi- 
nary. Great preparations had been made, and the success 
must have been perfect to win so general and hearty a 
commendation. The display was ushered in by a rousing 
salute of artillery ; but this was not needed to assemble in 
and around the Piazza del Popolo all the population of 



ST. PETER S. 207 

Rome that could be spared from their homes. The Piazza 
is the great square of Rome, in front of the Pincian Hill, 
whence the rockets, wheels, stars, serpents, &c, were let 
off. The display was not concluded till after 10 o'clock. 

This day I have devoted to famous private galleries of 
Paintings and Sculpture, having been again disappointed 
in attempting to gain a sight of the Apollo Belvidere and 
Picture Gallery of the Vatican. The time for opening 
these treasures to the public has lately been changed from 
10 a. m. to noon, and they are only open regularly on 
Mondays ; so that I was there a little before noon to be 
ready ; but after waiting (with many others) a full hour, 
in front of an inexorable gate, without being able to learn 
why we were shut out or when the embargo would cease, 
I grew weary of the uncertainty and waste of time, and 
left. A little past 1 (I now understand), the gate was 
opened, but too late for me, as I did not return, and leave 
Rome for Florence to-morrow. Had the simplest notice 
been given that such a delay would take place, or had the 
officers at the gates been able to give any information, I 
should have had different luck. " They manage these 
things better in France." 



XXVI. 
THE ROMANS OF TO-DAY. 

Rome, Monday, June 30, 1851. 

The common people of Rome generally seem to me an 
intelligent, vivacious race, and I can readily credit the 
assurance of well-informed friends that they are mentally 
superior to most other Italians. It may be deemed strange 
that any other result should be thought possible, since the 
very earth around them, with all it bears, is so vivified 
with the spirit of Heroism, of Genius, and of whatever is 
most memorable in History. But the legitimate influences 
of Nature, of Art, and of Ancestry, are often overborne 
by those of Institutions and Laws, as is now witnessed on 
all the eastern and southern coasts of the Mediterranean, 
and I was rather disappointed in finding the present Romans 
a race of fully average capacities, intellectual and physical. 
A face indicating mental imbecility, or even low mediocri- 
ty, is very rarely met in those streets where the greater 
portion of the Romans seem to work and live. The 
women are brown, plain, bare-headed, and rather careless 
of personal appearance, but ready at repartee, self-possess- 
ed, energetic, with flashing eyes and countenances often 
indicating a depth of emotion and character. I do not 
think such pictures as abound in Rome could have been 
painted where the women were common-place and unideal. 

But all with whom I can converse, and who are qualified 
to speak by residence in the country, give unfavorable ac- 
counts of the moral qualities of the Romans especially , 



THE ROMANS OF TO-DAY. 209 

and in these qualities I include Patriotism and all the civic 
virtues. That Italians, and those of Rome especially, are 
quite commonly sensual, selfish, indolent, fickle, dishonest, 
vicious, is the general report of the foreigners residing 
among them. Zealous Protestants will readily account for 
it by their Catholicism. My own prepossessions naturally 
lead me to the conclusion that much of the religious 
machinery in operation here is unfavorable to the develop- 
ment of high moral character. Whatever the enlighten- 
ed and good may mean by these observances, it does seem 
to me that the ignorant and vulgar understand that the evil 
consequences of pleasant sins may be cheaply avoided by a 
liberal use of holy water, by bowings before the altar and re- 
verent conformity to rituals and ceremonies. — This is cer- 
tainly the great danger (in my sight) of the Catholic system, 
that it may lead its votaries to esteem conformity to outward 
and ceremonial requirements as essentially meritorious, and 
in some sense an offset for violations of the moral law. Not 
that this error is by any means confined to Catholics, for 
Christendom is full of Protestants who, though ready enough 
to proclaim that kissing the toe of St. Peter's statue is a poor 
atonement for violating the Commandments, and Adoration 
of the Virgin a very bad substitute for Chastity, do yet 
themselves prefer bad Christians to good Infidels, and 
would hail with joy the conversion of India or China to 
their creed, though it should involve no improvement of 
character or life. I know every one believes that such 
conversion would inevitably result in amendment of heart 
and morals, but how many desire it mainly for that reason ? 
How large a proportion of Protestants esteem it the great 
end of Religion to make its votaries better husbands, 
brothers, children, neighbors, kindred, citizens ? To my 
Protestant eyes, it seems that the general error on this 
point is more prevalent and more vital at Rome than else- 
where ; and I have been trying to recollect, among all the 
immensity of Paintings, Mosaic and Statuary I have seen 



210 GLANCES AT EUROPE. 

here, representing St. Peter in Prison, St. Peter on the 
Sea of Galilee, St. Peter healing the Cripple, St. Peter 
raising the Dead, St. Peter receiving the Keys, St. Peter 
suffering Martyrdom, &c. &c. (some of them many times 
over), I have any where met with a representation of that 
most remarkable and beneficent vision whereby the Apostle 
was instructed from Heaven that " Of a truth, I perceive 
that God is no respecter of persons, but in every nation he 
that feareth Him and worketh righteousness is accepted 
with Him." I presume such a representation must exist 
in a city where there are so many hundreds if not thou- 
sands of pictures of St. Peter doing, receiving or suffer- 
ing ; but this certainly is not a favorite subject here, or I 
should have seen it many times depicted. Who knows a 
Protestant city in which the aforesaid lesson given to 
Peter has been adequately dwelt on and heeded ? 

That the prevalence of Catholicism is not inconsistent 
with general uprightness and purify of morals is demon- 
strated in Ireland, in Switzerland, in Belgium, in the Tyrol, 
and elsewhere. The testimony of the great body of 
travelers and other observers with regard to the countries 
just named, affirms the general prevalence therein of those 
virtues which are the basis of the Family and the Church. 
And yet, the acknowledged state of things here is a grave 
fact which challenges inquiry and demands explanation. 
In the very metropolis of Catholic Christendom, where 
nearly all believe, and a great majority are at least cere- 
monially devout — where many of the best intellects in the 
Catholic communion have flourished and borne sway for 
more than fifteen centuries, and with scarcely a divided 
empire for the last thousand years — where Churches and 
Priests have long been more abundant than on any other 
spot of earth, and where Divine worship and Christian 
ordinances are scarcely intermitted for an hour, but are 
free and welcome to all, and are very generally attended — 
what is the reason that corruption and degeneracy should 



THE ROMANS OF TO-DAY. 211 

be so fearfully prevalent ? If only the enemies of Rome's 
faith affirmed this degeneracy, we might fairly suppose it 
invented or exaggerated ; but even the immediate Priest- 
hood of this people, who may be presumed most unwilling 
and unlikely to deny their virtues or magnify their vices, 
declare them unfit to be trusted with power over their own 
political destinies, and indeed incapable of self-government. 
Such is the fundamental basis and essential justification of 
the rule now maintained in Rome, under the protection of 
foreign bayonets. This is a conquered city, virtually if 
not nominally in a state of siege, without assignable period. 
The Pope's guards are partly Swiss and partly native, that 
is, chosen from the families of the Nobility ; but the 
"power behind the throne " is maintained by the thousands 
of French soldiers who garrison the city, and the tens of 
thousands of Austrian, Spanish and Neapolitan soldiers 
who would be pushed here upon the first serious attempt 
of the Romans to assert their right of self-government. 
Thus, " Order reigns in Warsaw," while Democracy bites 
its lip and bides its time. 

Has Human Nature degenerated under Christian minis- 
trations ? There surely was a Roman people, some 
twenty-odd centuries ago, who were capable of self-govern- 
ment, and who maintained it long and creditably. Why 
should it be otherwise with the Romans of to-day ? I do 
not believe it is. They have great vices I admit, for all 
testimony affirms it ; that they might somewhat abuse 
Freedom I fear, for the blessed sunshine is painful and 
perilous to eyes long used to the gloom of the dungeon. 
But the experience of Freedom must tend to dispel the igno- 
rance and correct the errors of its votaries, while Slavery 
only leads from bad to worse. If ten centuries of such 
rule as now prevails here have nowise qualified this people 
for Self-Government, what rational hope is there that ten 
more such would do it ? If a reform is ever to be effected, 
it cannot be commenced too soon, 



212 GLANCES AT EUROPE. 

As to the actual government of Rome and her depen- 
dencies, it could not well be worse. The rulers fully 
understand that they are under no obligation to the 
people for the power they exercise, nor for the submission 
which it commands. The despotism which prevails is 
unmodified even by the hereditary despot's natural desire 
to secure the throne to his descendants by cultivating the 
good will of his people. The Pope is nominally sovereign, 
and all regard him as personally a pure and good man ; 
but he exerts no actual power in the State, his time and 
thoughts being wholly devoted to the various and compli- 
cated cares of his vast Spiritual empire. Meantime, the 
Reactionist influences so omnipotent with his predecessor, 
but which were repressed for a time after the present 
Pontiff's accession, have unchecked sway in the political 
administration. The way the present rulers of Rome read 
History is this — " Pius IX. came into power a Liberal and 
a Reformer, and did all he could for the promotion of 
Republican and Progressive ideas ; for all which his 
recompense was the assassination of his Prime Minister, 
and his own personal expulsion from his throne and terri- 
tories — which is quite enough of Liberalism for one 
generation ; we, at least, will have no more of it." And 
they certainly live up to their resolution. It is currently 
reported that there are now Seventeen Thousand political 
prisoners confined here, but nobody who would tell can 
know how many there are, and I presume this statement 
is a gross exaggeration, significant only as an index of the 
popular feeling. The essential fact is that there might be 
Seventeen or Seventy Thousand thus imprisoned without 
publicity, known accusation or trial, save at the conveni- 
ence of those ordering their arrest ; and with no recognized 
right of the arrested to Habeas Corpus or any kindred 
process. Many of the best Romans of the age are in exile 
for Liberty's sake. I was reliably informed at Turin that 
there are at this time Three Hundred Thousand Political 



THE ROMANS OF TO-DAY. 213 

Refugees in the Kingdom of Sardinia, nearly all, of course, 
from the despotism of Lower Italy. Thus Europe is kept 
tranquil by a system of terror, which is efficient while the 
spell holds ; but let it break at any point, and all will go 
together. 

The Cardinals are the actual directors of State affairs 
here, and are popularly held responsible for all that is 
disliked in the Government. They would be likely to fare 
roughly in case of another revolution. They are privately 
accused of flagrant immoralities, as men so powerful and 
so unpopular would naturally be, whether with or without 
cause. I know no facts that sustain the accusation. 

A single newspaper is now published in Rome, but I 
have heard it inquired for or mentioned but once since I 
came here, and then by a Scotchman studying Italian. It 
is ultra-despotic in its spirit, and would not be tolerated if 
it were not. It is a small, coarsely printed sheet, in good 
part devoted to Church news, giving great prominence to 
the progress of conversion from the English to the Romish 
communion. There are very few foreign journals taken 
or read in the Roman States. Lynn or Poughkeepsie 
probably, Newark or Hew-Haven certainly, buys and 
reads more newspapers than the entire Three Millions of 
People who inhabit the Papal States. I could not learn 
to relish such a state of things. I have just paid $3 70 
(more than half of it to our American Consul) for the 
privilege of leaving the dominions of His Holiness, and 
shall speedily profit by the gracious permission 



10* 



XXVII. 
CENTRAL ITALY— FLORENCE. 

Bologna, July 6, 1851. 

" See Naples and die !" says the proverb : but I am in 
no hurry to " shuffle off this mortal coil," and rather weary 
of seeing. I think I should have found a few choice friends 
in Naples, but my time is limited, and the traveling through 
Southern Italy neither pleasant nor expeditious. Of Ve- 
suvius in its milder moods I never had a high opinion ; 
and, though I should have liked to tread the unburied 
streets of Pompeii, yet Rome has nearly surfeited me with 
ruins. So I shortened my tour in Italy by cutting off the 
farther end of it, and turned my face obliquely homeward 
from the Eternal City. What has the world to show of 
by-gone glory and grandeur which she cannot at least 
equal ? 

Let no one be sanguine as to his good resolutions. I as 
firmly resolved, when I first shook from my feet the dust 
of Civita Vecchia, that I never again would enter its 
gates, as I ever did to do or forbear any act whatever. 
But, after a tedious and ineffectual attempt to make up a 
party of Americans to come through from Rome to Flo- 
rence direct, I was at last obliged to knock under. All 
the seats by Diligence or Mail on that route were taken 
ahead for a longer time than I could afford to wait ; and 
offers to fill an extra coach if the proprietors would send 
one were utterly unavailing. Such a thing as Enterprise 
is utterly unknown south of Genoa, and the idea of any^ 



CENTRAL ITALY FLORENCE. 215 

obligation on the part of proprietors of stage-lines to make 
extra efforts to accommodate an extra number of passen- 
gers is so queer that I doubt whether Italian could be 
found to express it. So some dozen or more who would 
gladly have gone through by land to Florence were driven 
back upon Civita Vecchia and Leghorn — I among the 
number. 

Three of us left Rome in a private carriage at noon on 
Tuesday the 1st, and reached Civita Vecchia at 10 minutes 
past 9 p. m. — the inner gate having been closed at 9. One 
of my companions was known and responsibly connected 
at the port, and so was enabled to negotiate our admission, 
though the process was a tedious one, and our carriage 
had to be left in the outer court, or between the two walls. 
Here I left it at 10 ; it may have been got in afterward. 
We found all the rooms taken at the best Hotel (Orlandi), 
and were driven to accept such as there were left. The 
boat (Languedoc) was advertised to start for Leghorn at 
7 next morning, by which time I succeeded in getting my 
Passport cleared (for no steamboat in these waters will 
give you a permit to embark until you have handed in 
your Passport, duly cleared, at its office, as well as paid for 
your passage) ; but the boat was coolly taking in water 
long after its advertised hour, and did not start until half 
past eight. 

We had an unusually large number of passengers, about 
one hundred and fifty, representing nearly every European 
nation, with a goodly number of Americans ; the day was 
cloudy and cool ; the wind light and propitious ; the sea 
calm and smooth ; so that I doubt if there was ever a more 
favorable passage. I w T as sick myself, a result of the night- 
air of the Campagna, bad lodging and inability to obtain 
a salt-water bath in the morning, by reason of the Pass- 
port nuisance, but for which I should have been well and 
hearty. We made Leghorn (120 miles) in about eleven 
hours, which is very good time for the Mediterranean. 



216 GLANCES AT EUROPE. 

But reaching the harbor of Leghorn was one thing, getting 
ashore quite another ; an hour or more elapsed before any 
of us had permission to land. I was one of the two first 
who got off', through the preconcerted interposition of a 
powerful Leghorn friend who had procured a special permit 
from the Police, and at whose hospitable mansion we pass- 
ed the night. I was unwell throughout ; but an early bath 
in the Mediterranean was the medicine I required, and 
from the moment of taking it I began to recover. By 
seasonable effort, I recovered my Passport from the Police 
office, duly vised, at 10 a. m. and left by Railroad for Flo- 
rence at 10J, reaching the capital of Tuscany (60 miles) 
about 1 o'clock, r. m. 

Florence (Italian Firenze) is pleasantly situated on both 
sides of the Arno, some forty miles in a direct line from 
its mouth. The river is here about the size of the Hudson 
at Sandy Hill or the Mohawk at Canajoharie, but subject 
to rapid swellings from rains in the Apennines above. One 
such occurred the night I was there, though very little rain 
fell at Florence. I was awakened in the night by the rush- 
ing and roaring of its waters, my window having only a 
street between it and the river, which subsided the next 
day, without having done any material damage. 

That day was the 4th of July, and I spent most of it, 
under the guidance of friends resident at Florence, in look- 
ing through the galleries devoted to Paintings and Statuary 
in the two famous palaces of the reigning family and 
in the Academy. Although the collections embrace the 
Venus de Medicis and many admirable Paintings, I cannot 
say that my expectations were fully realized. Ill health 
may in part account for this ; my recent acquaintance 
with the immense and multiform treasures of Art at Rome 
may also help explain my obtuseness at Florence. And 
yet I saw nothing in Rome with greater pleasure or profit 
than I derived from the hour I spent in the studio of our 
countryman Powers, whose fame is already world-wide, 



CENTRAL ITALY FLORENCE. 217 

and who I trust is now rapidly acquiring that generous 
competence which will enable him to spend the evening of 
his days in ease and comfort in his native land. The 
abundance of orders constantly pouring in upon him at his 
own prices does not induce him to abandon nor postpone 
his efforts in the ideal and more exalted sphere of his art, 
but rather to redouble those efforts ; and it will yet be felt 
that his " Greek Slave " and " Fisher Boy," so widely ad- 
mired, are not his loftiest achievements. I defy Antiquity 
to surpass — I doubt its ability to rival — his " Proserpine " 
and his " Psyche " with any models of the female head 
that have come down to us ; and while I do not see how 
they could be excelled in their own sphere, I feel that 
Powers, unlike Alexander, has still realms to conquer, and 
will fulfill his destiny. If for those who talk of America 
quitting her proper sphere and seeking to be Europe when 
she wanders into the domain of Art, we had no other 
answer than Powers, that name would be conclusive. 

Greenough is now absent from Florence. I met him at 
Turin, on his way to America, on account (I casually 
heard) of sickness in his family. But I obtained admission 
to his studio in Florence, and saw there the unfinished 
group on which he is employed by order of Congress, to 
adorn one of the yet empty niches in the Capitol. His 
execution is not yet sufficiently advanced to be judged, 
but the design is happy and most expressive. 

I saw something of three younger American Sculptors 
now studying and working at Florence — Hart of Kentucky, 
Galt of Virginia, and Rogers of New- York. (Ives is 
absent — at Rome, I believe, though I did not meet him 
there.) I believe all are preparing to do credit to their 
country. Hart has been hindered by a loss of models at 
sea from proceeding with the Statue of Henry Clay 
which he is commissioned by the Ladies of Virginia to 
fashion and construct ; but he is wisely devoting much of 
his time to careful study and to the modeling of the Ideal 



~1S GLANCES AT EUROPE. 

before proceeding to commit himself irrevocably by the 
great work which must fix his position among Sculptors 
and make or mar his destiny. I have great confidence 
that what he has already carefully and excellently done is 
but a foretaste of what he is yet to achieve, and that his 
seeming hesitation will prove the surest and truest effi- 
ciency. 

I think there are but few American painters in Florence. 
I met none but Page, who is fully employed and expects 
to spend some time in Italy. His health is better than 
during his last year in New- York. 



The strong necessity of moving on compelled me to tear 
myself away from a pleasant party of Americans assembled 
at dinner in Florence last evening to celebrate the 76th 
Anniversary of American Independence, and take the 
Diligence at 8 o'clock for this place on the road to Venice, 
though no other American nor even an Englishman came 
along. I have found by experience that I cannot await 
the motions of others, nor can I find a party ready to take 
post-horses and so travel at rational hours. The Diligence 
or stage-coach traveling in Italy appears to be organized 
on purpose to afford the least possible accommodation at 
the most exorbitant cost. This city, for example, is 63 
miles from Florence on the way to Padua and Venice, and 
the Diligence leaves Florence for Bologna at no other hour 
than 8 P. M. arriving here at 1^ o'clock next day ; fare 40 
to 45 Tuscan pauls or $4.45 to $5. But when you reach 
Bologna at mid-day, after an all-night ride, you find no 
conveyance for any point beyond this until ten o'clock 
next morning, so that you must wait here twenty-one 
hours ; and the Diligence might far better, so far as the 
travelers' convenience and comfort is concerned, have 
remained in Florence till an early hour in the morning, 
making the passage over the Apennines by day and saving 
their nights' rest. Three or four travelers may break over 



CENTRAL ITALY FLORENCE. 219 

this absurd tyranny by taking post-horses ; a single one 
has no choice but to submit. And, having reached 
Bologna, I tried to gain time, or at least avoid another 
night-ride, by taking a private carriage (vetturino) this 
afternoon for Ferrara, thirty miles further on, sleep there 
to-night, and catch a Diligence or Mail-Coach to-morrow 
morning, so as to reach Padua in the evening : but no — 
there is no coach out of Padua Venice-ward till 4 to- 
morrow afternoon, and I should gain nothing, but extra 
fatigue and expense by taking a carriage to Ferrara, so I 
give it up. I must make most of the journey from Ferrara 
to Padua by night, and yet take as much time as though I 
traveled only by day, — for I am in Italy. 

The valley of the Arno, especially for some miles on 
either side of Florence, is among the most fertile portions 
of this prolific land, and is laboriously though not efficiently 
cultivated. All the Grains grow luxuriantly throughout 
Italy, though Indian Corn is so thickly planted and so 
viciously cultivated that it has no chance to ear or fill 
well. There is enough labor performed on the average to 
insure sixty bushels of shelled grain to the acre, but the 
actual yield will hardly exceed twenty-five. And I have 
not had the first morsel of food prepared from this grain 
offered me since I reached the shores of Europe. Wheat 
is the favorite grain here, and, requiring less depth of soil 
than Indian corn, and having been much longer cultivated 
here, yields very fairly. Barley and Oats are grown, but 
to a limited extent ; of Rye, still less. The Potato is 
planted very sparingly south of Piedmont, and not so com- 
monly there as in Savoy. The Vine is a universal favor- 
ite, and rarely out of view, while it often seems to cover 
half the ground in sight. But it is not grown here in close 
hills as in France and around Cincinnati, but usually in 
rows some twenty or thirty feet apart, and trained on trees 
kept down to a hight of eight to twelve feet. Around 
Rome, a species of Cane is grown wherewith to support 



220 GLANCE9 AT EUROPE. 

the vines after the manner of bean-poles, which, after 
serving a year or two in this capacity, is used for fuel, and 
new stalks of cane replace those which have been enfeebled 
by exposure and decay. The plan of training the vines 
on dwarfed trees (which seems to me by far the most 
natural) prevails here as well as on the other side of the 
Apennines ; so that the vine-stalks are large and may be 
hundreds of years old, instead of being (apparently) fresh 
from the ground every year or two. The space between 
the vine-rows is usually sown with Wheat, but sometimes 
planted with Corn or laid down to Grass, and a moderate 
crop realized. 

Crossing the Apennines mainly in the night, they seemed 
a little higher than the Green Mountains of Vermont, but 
lacking the thrifty forests of which I apprehend the prox- 
imity of Railroads is about to despoil that noble range. 
But the Apennines, though cultivated wherever they can 
be, are far more precipitous and sterile than their Ameri- 
can counterpart, and seem to be in good degree composed 
of a whitish clay or marl which every rain is washing 
away, rendering the Arno after a storm one of the muddi- 
est streams I ever saw. I presume, therefore, that the 
Apennines are, as a whole, less lofty and difficult now than 
they were in the days of Romulus, of Hannibal, or even 
of Constantine. 

We crossed the summit about daylight, and began 
rapidly to descend, following down the course of one of 
the streams which find the Adriatic together near the 
mouth of the Po. At 5 A. M. we passed the boundary of 
Tuscany and entered the Papal territory, so that our 
baggage had to be all taken down and searched, and our 
Passports re-scrutinized — two processes to which I am 
becoming more accustomed than any live eel ever w r as to 
being skinned. The time consumed was but an hour and 
the pecuniary swindle trifling. But though the hour was 
early and there were few habitations in sight, there soon 



CENTRAL ITALY FLORENCE. 221 

gathered around us a swarm of most importunate beggars 
— brown, withered old women spinning on distaffs held in 
the hand (a process I fancied the world had outgrown), 
and stopping every moment to hold out a dirty claw, with 
a most disgusting grimace and whine — " For the love of 
God, Signor" — with ditto old men, and children of various 
sizes, the youngest who could walk seeming as apt at 
beggary as their grandames who have followed it, " off 
and on/' for seventy or eighty years. If the ancient 
Romans had equaled their living progeny in begging, they 
need not have dared and suffered so much to achieve the 
mastery of the world — they might have begged it, and 
saved an infinity of needless slaughter. These people 
have no proper pride, no manly shame, because they have 
no hope. Untaught, unskilled in industry, owning nothing, 
their government an absolute despotism, their labor only 
required at certain seasons, and deemed amply rewarded 
with a York shilling or eighteen pence per day, and them- 
selves the virtual serfs of great landholders who live in 
Rome or Bologna and whom they rarely or never see — is 
it a wonder that they stoop to plead and whine for coppers 
around every carriage that traverses their country? That 
they fare miserably, their scanty rags and pinched faces 
sufficiently attest ; that they are indolent and improvident. 
I can very well believe : for when were uneducated, 
unskilled, hopeless vassals anything else ? Italy, beauti- 
ful, bounteous land ! is everywhere haggard with want 
and wretchedness, but these seem nowhere so general and 
chronic as in the Papal territories. Every political divi- 
sion of Italy but this has at least some section of Railroad 
in operation ; Rome, though in the heart of all and the 
great focus of attraction for travelers, has not the first 
mile and no prospect of any, though it would seem a good 
speculation to build one if it were to be used only in trans- 
porting hither the Foreign troops absolutely essential here 
to keep the people quiet in their chains. " And this, too, 



XXVIII. 
EASTERN ITALY— THE PO. 

Venice, Tuesday, July 8. 

I never saw and cannot hope to see hereafter a region 
more blessed by Nature than the great plain of Upper 
Italy, whereof the Po is the life-blood. It is very fertile 
and beautiful where I first traversed it near its head, from 
the foot, of Mount. Cenis by Turin to Alessandria and 
Novi, on my way down to Genoa; yet it is richer and 
lovelier still where I have just recrossed it from the foot 
of the Apennines by Bologna, Ferrara, Rovigo and Padua 
on my way from Florence to Venice! Irrigation, which 
might easily be almost universal in Piedmont, seems there 
but an occasional expedient, while here it is the breath of 
life. From Bologna to Rovigo (and I presume on to 
Padua, though there night and drowsiness prevented my 
observing clearly), the whole country seems completely 
intersected by Canals constructed in the palmier days of 
Italy on purpose to distribute the fertilizing waters of the 
Po and the Adige over the entire face of the country and 
dispense them to every field and meadow. The great 
highway generally runs along the bank of one of these 
Canals, which are filled from the rivers when they have just 
been raised by rains and are thus surcharged with fertiliz- 
ing matter, and drawn off from day to day thereafter to 
refresh and enrich the remarkably level plain they traverse. 
Thus not only the plain and the glades lying nearer the 
sources of the rivers, but the sterile, rugged crests of the 



EASTERN ITALY THE PO. - 223 

Alps and Apennines which enclose this great basin are 
made to contribute evermore to the fruitfulness of its soil, 
so that Despotism, Ignorance, Stolidity, Indolence and 
Unthrift of all kinds vainly strive to render it other than 
the Garden of Europe. The banks of the Canals and the 
sides of the highways are generally lined with trees, rows 
of which also traverse many if not most of the fields, so 
that from certain points the whole country seems one 
vast, low forest or " timbered opening " of Poplar, Willow, 
Mulberry, Locust, &c. There are a few Oaks, more 
Elms, and some species I did not recognize, and the Vine 
through all this region is trained on dwarfed or shortened 
trees, sometimes along the roadside, but oftener in rows 
through one-fourth of the fields, while in a few instances it 
is allowed thus to obtain an altitude of thirty or forty feet. 
Of Fruit, I have seen only the Apricot and the Cherry in 
abundance, but there are some Pears, while the Orange 
and Lemon are very plentiful in the towns, though I think 
they are generally brought from Naples and the Mediterra- 
nean coast. But finer crops of Wheat, Grass, Hemp, &c, 
can grow nowhere than throughout this country, while the 
Indian Corn which is abundantly planted, would yield as 
amply if the people knew how to cultivate it. Ohio has 
no better soil nor climate for this grain. Of Potatoes or 
other edible roots I have seen very little. Hemp is 
extensively cultivated, and grows most luxuriantly. Man 
is the only product of this prolific land which seems stunted 
and shriveled Were Italy once more a Nation, under one 
wise and liberal government, with a single tariff, coinage, 
mail-post, &c, a thorough system of common school 
education, a small navy, but no passports, and a public 
policy which looked to the fostering and diversifying of 
her industry, she might easily sustain and enrich a popula- 
tion of sixty millions. As it is, one-half of her twenty-five 
millions are in rags, and are pinched by hunger, while 
inhabiting the best wheat country in Europe, from which 



224 GLANCES AT EUROPE. 

food is constantly and largely exported. There are at 
least one hundred millions of dollars locked up in useless 
decorations of churches, and not one common school-house 
from Savoy to Sicily. A little education, after a fashion, 
is fitfully dispensed by certain religious and charitable 
foundations, so that the child lucky enough to be an orphan 
or illegitimate has a chance to be taught to read and 
write ; but any such thing as a practical recognition of the 
right to education, or as a public and general provision for 
imparting it, is utterly unknown here. Grand and beauti- 
ful structures are crowded in every city, and are crumbling 
to dust on every side ; a single township dotted at proper 
intervals with eight or ten school-houses would be worth 
them all. With infinite water power, cheaper labor, and 
cheaper food than almost any other country in the 
civilized world, and millions of children at once naked and 
idle because no one will employ them at even six-pence a 
day, she has not one cotton or woolen factory that I have 
yet seen, and can hardly have one at all, though her 
mountains afford vast and excellent sheep-walks, and 
Naples can grow cotton if she will. England and Germa- 
ny manufacture nearly all the few fabrics of cotton or 
wool worn here, because those who should lead, instruct, 
and employ this people, are blind to their duty or recreant 
to its obligations. Italy, once the light of the world, is 
dying of aristocratic torpor and popular ignorance, whence 
come indolence, superstition, and wide-spread demoraliza- 
tion and misery. 

Bologna is a walled city of Seventy Thousand inhabit- 
ants, with about as much trade and business of all kinds 
as an American village of ten to twenty thousand people. 
I doubt that thirty persons per day are carried into or 
brought out of it by all public conveyances whatever. It 
is well built on narrow streets, like nearly all Italian cities, 
and manifests considerable activity in the way of watching 
gates and viseing Passports. Though in the Papal terri- 



EASTERN ITALY THE PO. 225 

tory, it is under Austrian guardianship; an Austrian 
sentinel constantly paced the court-yard of the " Hotel 
Brun " where I stopped. Though the second town in the 
Pope's temporal dominions, strongly walled, it has no 
Military strength, being commanded by a hill a short mile 
south of it — the last hill I remember having seen till I 
reached Venice and looked across over the lagoons to the 
Euganian hills on the main land to south-west. The most 
notable thing I saw in Bologna was an awning of sheeting 
or calico spread over the centre of the main street on a 
level with the roofs of the houses for a distance of half a 
mile or so. I should distrust its standing a strong gust, 
but if it would, the idea is worth borrowing. 

After a night-ride over the Apennines from Florence, 
and a detention of twenty-one hours at Bologna, I did hope 
that our next start would be " for good " — that there would 
be no more halt till we reached Padua. But I did not yet 
adequately appreciate Italian management. A Yankee 
stage-coach running but once a day between two such 
cities as Bologna and Ferrara would start at daylight and 
so connect at the latter place as to set down its passengers 
beside the Railroad in Padua (86 to 90 miles of the best 
possible staging from Bologna) in the evening of the same 
day. We left Bologna at 10 a. m., drove to Ferrara, 
arrived there a little past 2 ; and then came a halt of four 
hours — till six p. m. when the stage started for a night-trip 
to Padua — none running during the day. But a Yankee 
stage would have one man for manager, driver, &c, who 
would very likely be the owner also of the horses and a 
partner in the line ; we started from a grand office with 
two book-keepers and a platoon of lackeys and baggage- 
smashers, with a "guard " on the box, and two "postillions" 
riding respectively the nigh horses of the two teams, there 
being always three horses at the pole and sometimes three 
on the lead also, at others only two. We had half a 
dozen passengers to Ferrara ; for the rest of the way, I 



226 GLANCES AT EUROPE. 

had this extensive traveling establishment to myself. I do 
not think the average number of passengers on a corres- 
ponding route in our country could be so few as twenty. 
Such are some of the points of difference between America 
and Italy. 

We crossed the Po an hour after leaving Ferrara, and 
here passed out of the Papal into the unequivocally Aus- 
trian territory — the Kingdom of Venice and Lombardy. 
There were of course soldiers on each side (though all of 
a piece), police officers, a Passport scrutiny and a fresh 
look into my carpet-bags, mainly (I understand) for To- 
bacco ! When any tide-waiter finds more of that about 
me than the chronic ill breeding of traveling smokers com- 
pels me to carry in my clothes, he is welcome to confiscate 
all I possess. But they found nothing here to cavil at, and 
I passed on. 

There is no town where we crossed the Po, only a small 
village on either side, and we followed down the left bank 
in a north-easterly direction for several miles without seeing 
any considerable place. The river has here, as through 
nearly its whole course, a strong, rapid current, and was 
swollen and rendered turbid by recent rains. I judge that 
its surface was decidedly above the level of the adjacent 
country, which is protected from inundation (like the re- 
gion of the Lower Mississippi) by strong embankments or 
levees, at first natural doubtless — the product of the suc- 
cessive overflows of centuries but subsequently strengthen- 
ed and perfected by human labor. The force of the cur- 
rent being strongest in the center of the river, there is 
either stillness or an eddy near the banks, so that the sedi- 
ment with which the current is charged tends constantly 
to deposition on or against the banks. When the river 
rises so as to overflow those banks, the downward current 
is entirely unfelt there and the deposition becomes still 
more rapid, the proportion of earthy matter to that of 
water being much greater then than at other times. Thus 



EASTERN ITALY THE PO. 227 

great, rapid rivers running through vast plains like these 
gradually form levees in the course of many centuries, 
their channels being denned and narrowed by their own 
deposits until the surface of their waters, at least in times 
of flood, is raised above the level of the surrounding coun- 
try, often several feet. When the great swamps of Loui- 
siana shall have been drained and cultivated for ages, they 
too will doubtless be fertilized and irrigated by canals, as 
the great plain traversed by the Po now is. And here too, 
though the acres are generally w T ell cared for, I saw tracts 
of considerable extent which, from original defect or un- 
skillful management, stand below the water level of the 
country, and so are given over to flags, bogs and miasma, 
when only a foot or two of elevation is needed to render 
them salubrious and most productive. 

There are many more good dwellings on this plain than 
in the rural portion of Lower Italy. These are generally 
built of brick, covered with stucco or cement and white- 
washed, and, being nearly square in form, two stories high, 
and without the long, sloping roofs common with us, are 
rather symmetrical and graceful, in appearance. Their 
roofs are tiled with a long, cylindrical brick, of which a 
first course is laid with the hollow upward, and another 
over the joints of this with the hollow down, conducting 
the water into the troughs made by the former and so off 
the house. The peasants' cottages are thatched with flags 
or straw, and often built of the latter material. Of barns 
there are relatively few, most of the wheat being stacked 
when harvested, and trodden out by oxen on floors under 
the open sky. I have not seen a good harness nor a res- 
pectable ox-yoke in Italy, most of the oxen having yokes 
which a Berkshire hog of any pretensions to good breed- 
ing would disdain to look through. These yokes merely 
hold the meek animals together, having no adaptation 
to draft, which is obtained by a cobbling filigree of ropes 
around the head, bringing the heaviest of the work upon 



228 GLANCE9 AT EUROPE. 

the horns ! The gear is a little better than this — as little 
as you please — while for Carts and Waggons there are few 
school-boys of twelve to fifteen in America who would not 
beat the average of all I have seen in Italy. Their clum- 
siness and stupidity are so atrocious that the owners do 
well in employing asses to draw them : no man of feeling 
or spirit could endure the horse-laughs they must extort 
from any animal of tolerable sagacity. To see a stout, 
two-handed man coming home with his donkey-load of fuel 
from a distant shrubbery, half a day of the two having been 
spent in getting as much as would make one good kitchen- 
fire, is enough to try the patience of Job. 

Although the Po must be navigable and has been navi- 
gated by steamboats for many miles above this point, until 
obstructed by rapids, yet nothing like a steamboat was 
visible. The only craft I saw attempting to stem its current 
was a rude sort of ark, like a wider canal -boat, drawn by 
three horses traveling on a wide, irregular tow-path along 
the levee or bank. 1 presume this path does not extend 
many miles without meeting impediments. Quite a num- 
ber of ruinous old rookeries were anchored in the river at 
intervals, usually three to six abreast, which I found to be 
grist-mills, propelled by the strong current, and receiving 
their grain from the shore and returning the flour by means 
of small boats. Our ferry-boat was impelled by what is 
termed (I think) a " rope ferry " — a series of ropes and 
boats made fast to some anchorage in the stream above, 
and moving it vigorously and expeditiously from one bank 
to the other by the mere force of the current. It is quite 
evident that modern Italy did not originate this contrivance. 
nor even the idea that a rapid river could be induced to 
move a large boat obliquely up its stream as well as down it. 
I should say the Po is here rather more than half a mile wide. 

Three hours later, we crossed in like manner at Rovigo 
the Adige, a much smaller but still a large river, about the 
size of the Connecticut at Hartford. It has its source 



EASTERN ITALY' THE PO. 229 

exclusively in the Tyrolean Alps, but for the last hundred 
miles of its course runs parallel with the Po, through the 
same plain, at a medium distance of about twenty miles, 
and has the same general characteristics. It was quite 
high and muddy when we crossed it. 

As midnight drew on, I grew weary of gazing at the 
same endless diversity of grain-fields, vineyards, rows of 
trees, &c, though the bright moon was now shining, and, 
shutting out the chill night-air, I disposed myself on my old 
great-coat and softest carpet-bag for a drowse, having 
ample room at my command if I could but have brought it 
into a straight line. But the road was hard, the coach a 
little the uneasiest I ever hardened my bones upon, and 
my slumber was of a disturbed and dubious character, a 
dim sense of physical discomfort shaping and coloring my 
incoherent and fitful visions. For a time I fancied myself 
held down on my back while some malevolent wretch 
drenched the floor (and me) with filthy water : then I was 
in a rude scuffle and came out third or fourth best, with 
my clothes badly torn ; anon I had lost my hat in a strange 
place and could not begin to find it ; and at last my clothes 
were full of grasshoppers and spiders who were beguiling 
their leisure by biting and stinging me. The misery at 
last became unbearable and I awoke. — But where ? I was 
plainly in a tight, dark box, that needed more air : I soon 
recollected that it was a stage-coach, wherein I had been 
making my way from Ferrara to Padua. I threw open the 
door and looked out. Horses, postillions and guard were 
all gone : the moon, the fields, the road were gone : I was 
in a close court-yard, alone with Night and Silence : but 
where ? A church clock struck three ; but it was only 
promised that we should reach Padua by four, and I, mak- 
ing the usual discount on such promises, had set down five 
as the probable hour of our arrival. I got out to take a 
more deliberate survey, and the tall form and bright bayonet 
of an Austrian sentinel, standing guard over the egress of 

11 



230 GLANCES AT EUROPE. 

the court-yard, were before me. To talk German was 
beyond the sweep of my dizziest ambition, but an Italian 
runner or porter instantly presented himself. From him I 
made out that I was in Padua of ancient and learned re- 
nown (Italian Padova), and that the first train for Venice 
would not start for three hours yet. I followed him into a 
convenient Cafe, which was all open and well lighted, 
where I ordered a cup of chocolate and proceeded leisure- 
ly to discuss it. When I had finished, the other guests 
had all gone out, but daylight was coming in, and I began 
to feel more at home. The Cafe tender was asleep in his 
chair ; the porter had gone oft; the sentinel alone kept 
awake on his post. Soon the welcome face of the coach- 
guard, whom I had borne company from Bologna, appear- 
ed ; I hailed him, obtained my baggage, hired a porter, and, 
having nothing more to wait for, started at a little past 
four for the Railroad station, nearly a mile distant ; taking 
observations as I went. Arrived at the depot, I discharged 
my porter, sat down and waited for the place to open, 
with ample leisure for reflection. At six o'clock I felt once 
more the welcome motion of a Railroad car, and at eight 
was in Venice. 



XXIX. 
VENICE. 

Milan, Wednesday, July 9, 1851. 

Venice! Queen of the Adriatic ! " City of the Heart !" 
how can I ever forget thee ? Brief, too brief was my halt 
amid thy glorious structures, but such eras are measured 
not by hours, but by sensations, and my first day in Venice 
must ever hold its place among the most cherished recollec- 
tions of my life. 

Venice lies so absolutely and wholly on the water's 
bosom that the landward approach to her is not imposing 
and scarcely impressive. The view from the sea-side may 
be somewhat better, but not much — not comparable to that 
of Genoa from the Mediterranean. No part of the islets 
upon and around which Venice was built having been 
ever ten feet above the surface of the Adriatic, while the 
adjacent mainland for miles is also just above the water 
level, you do not see the city from any point of observa- 
tion outside of it — only the distant outline of a low mass 
of buildings perhaps two miles long, but which may not 
be three blocks wide, for aught you can see. Formerly 
two miles of shallow lagoon separated the city from the 
land ; but this has been overcome by the heavy piling and 
filling required for the Railroad which now connects 
Venice with Verona, via. Vicenza, and is to reach this 
city via Brescia whenever the Austrian Government shall 
be able to complete it. At present a noble enterprise, 
through one of the richest, most populous and most pro- 



232 GLANCES AT EUROPE. 

ductive Agricultural regions of the earth, and connecting 
the Political with the Commercial metropolis of Austrian 
Italy, is arrested when half-finished, entailing a heavy 
annual charge on the Treasury for the interest of the sum 
already expended, yet yielding little or no net revenue in 
return, because of its imperfect condition. The wisdom 
of this would be just equal to that of our ten years' halt 
with the Erie Canal Enlargement, except for the fact that 
the Austrians would borrow and complete if they could, 
while New York has had no such excuse for her slothful 
blunder. 

The approach to Venice across the Lagoon is like that 
of Boston across the Charles River marshes from the West, 
though of course on a much grander scale. The embank- 
ment or road-bed was commenced by gigantic piling, and 
is very broad and substantial. You reach the station just 
in the edge of the city, run the Passport gauntlet, and are 
let out on the brink of a wide canal, where dozens of gon- 
doliers are soliciting your custom. I engaged one, and 
directed him (at a venture) to row me to the Hotel 
l'Europe. This proved (like nearly or quite all the other 
great Hotels) to be located on the same line or water-front 
with the Ducal Palace, Church of St. Mark, and most of 
the notabilities of modern Venice, with the inner harbor 
and shipping just on the left and the Adriatic in plain sight 
before us, only two or three little islets covered with build- 
ings partially intervening. Of course, my first row was a 
long one, quite through the city from west to east, includ- 
ing innumerable turnings and windings. After this, whom- 
soever may assert that the streets of Venice are dusty or 
not well watered, I shall be able to contradict from personal 
observation. 

After outward renovation and breakfast, I hired a boat 
for the day, and went in search of American friends- — a 
pursuit in which I was ultimately successful. With these 
I visited the various council-rooms and galleries in the 



VENICE. 233 

Ducal Palace, saw the " Lion's Mouth," descended into 
the ancient dungeons, now tenantless, and crossed the 
" Bridge of Sighs/' These last are not open to the public, 
but a silver key gives access to them. Thence we visited 
the famous picture-gallery of the Manfrini Palace, and 
after that the Academy, thus consuming the better part of 
the day. 

The works of Art in the Grand Palace did not, as a 
whole, impress me strongly. Most of the larger ones are 
historical illustrations of the glories of Venice ; the battle 
of Lepanto ; the taking of Zara; the Pope and Venice 
uniting against or triumphing over the Emperor, &c, &c. 
Some of the most honorable achievements of Venice, 
including her long and memorable defense of Candia (or 
Crete) against the desperate and finally successful attacks 
of the Turks, are not even hinted at. But these galleries 
are palpably in a state of dilapidation and decay, which 
implies that the Austrian masters of Venice, though they 
cannot stoop to the meanness of demolishing or mutilating 
the memorials of her ancient glories, will be glad to see 
them silently and gradually perish. The whole Palace has 
a dreary and by-gone aspect, seeming conscious that either 
itself or the Austrian soldiers drilling in front of it must be 
an anachronism — that both cannot belong to the same place 
and time. 

" The traitor clock forsakes the hours, 
And points to times, O far away ! " 

The paintings in the Manfrini Palace seem to rne by 
no means equal to those in the Orsini, Doria, and some 
other private collections of Rome ; even of those extrava- 
gantly praised by Lord Byron, I failed to perceive the 
admirable qualities apparent to his more cultivated taste. 
The collection in the Academy I thought much better, but 
still far enough behind similar galleries in Rome. The 
fact is, modern Italy is poverty-stricken in Art and Genius 



234 GLANCES AT EUROPE. 

as well as in Industry, and lives upon the trophies and the 
memory of her past greatness. I have not heard in all 
this land the name of one living Italian mentioned as likely 
to attain eminence in Painting, nor even in Sculpture. 

Toward evening, my friend and I ascended the Campa- 
nile or Bell-Tower of St. Mark's, some 330 feet high, and 
had thence a glorious view of the city and its neighbor- 
hood. From this tower, the houses might almost be 
counted, though of the Canals which separate them only a 
few of the largest are discerned. But the port, the ship- 
ping outside, the gardens (naturally few and contracted), 
the adjacent main-land, the Railroad embankment across 
the Lagoon, the blue Euganian hills in the distance, &c, 
&c, are all as palpable as Boston Harbor from Bunker 
Hill Monument. Immediately beneath is the Place of St. 
Mark, the Wall-street of Venice ; just beside you is the 
old Palace and the famous Cathedral Church of St. Mark ; 
to the north is the Armory, one of the largest and most 
interesting in Europe ; while the dome of every Church 
in Venice and all the windings of the Grand Canal are 
distinctly visible. An Austrian steamship in the harbor 
and an Austrian regiment marching from the north end 
of the city into the grand square to take post there, com- 
pleted the panorama. The sun setting in mild radiance 
after a most lovely summer day, and the full moon shining 
forth in all her luster, gave it a wondrous richness and 
beauty of light and shadow. I was loth indeed to tear 
myself away from its contemplation and commence the 
tedious descent of the now darkened circular way up and 
down the inside of the tower. 

In the evening, we improved our gondoliers' time in 
rowing leisurely from one point of interest to another. 
Together we stood on the true Rialto — a magnificent (and 
the only) bridge over the Grand Canal, in good part 
covered with shops of one kind or another. Here a boy 
was industriously and vociferously trying to sell a lot of 



VENICE. 235 

cucumbers, which he had arranged in piles of three or four 
each, and was crying " any pile for" some piece of money, 
which I was informed was about half a Yankee cent. 
Vegetables, and indeed provisions of all kinds, are very 
cheap in Venice. I said this bridge is a grand one, as it 
is ; but Venice is full of bridges across its innumerable 
canals, and nearly all are of the best construction. Arches 
more graceful in form, or better fitted to defy the assaults 
of time, I have never seen. 

We passed from the true to Shakspeare's Rialto — the 
ancient Exchange of Venice, where its large Commercial 
and Moneyed transactions took place prior to the last three 
centuries. Here is seen the ancient Bank of Venice — the 
first, I believe, established in the world ; here also the 
" stone of shame" — an elevated post which each bankrupt 
was compelled to take and hold for a certain time, exposed 
to the derision of the confronting thousands. (Now-a-days 
it is the bankrupt who flouts, and his too confiding credi- 
tors who are jeered and laughed at.) This ancient focus 
of the world's commerce is now abandoned to the sellers 
of market vegetables, who were busily arranging their 
cabbages, &c, for the next morning's trade when we 
visited it. 

Venice is full of deserted Palaces, which, though of 
spacious dimensions and of the finest marble, may be 
bought for less than the cost of an average brick house in 
the upper part of New- York. The Duchess de Berri, 
mother of the Bourbon Pretender to the throne of France, 
has bought one of these and generally inhabits it ; the 
Rothschilds own another ; the dancer Taglioni, it is said, 
owns four, and so on. Cheap as they are, they are a 
poorer speculation than even corner lots in a lithographic 
city of Nebraska or Oregon. 

That evening in the gondola, with one old and two 
newer friends, is marked with a white stone in my recol- 
lection. To bones aching with rough riding in Diligences 



236 GLANCES AT EUROPE. 

by night as well as day, the soft cushions and gliding 
motion of the boat were soothing and grateful as " spicy 
gales from Araby the blest." The breeze from the Adriatic 
was strong and refreshing after the fervid but not excessive 
1 heat of the day, and the clear, mild moon seemed to invest 
the mossy and crumbling palaces with a softened radiance 
and spiritual beauty. Boats were passing on every side, 
some with gay parties of three to six, others with but two 
passengers, who did not seem to need the presence of more, 
nor indeed to be conscious that any others existed. The 
hum of earnest or glad voices here contrasted strongly 
with silence and meditation there. Venice is a City of the 
Past, and wears her faded yet queenly robes more grace- 
fully by night than by day. 

Yes, the Venice of to-day is only a reminiscence ot 
glories that were, but shall be never again. Wealth, 
Luxury, Aristocracy ate out her soul ; then Bonaparte, 
perfidious despot that he ever was, robbed her of her inde- 
pendence ; finally the Holy Alliance of conquerors of 
Bonaparte made his wrong the pretext for another, and 
wholly gave her to her ancient enemy Austria, who greedily 
snatched at the prey, though it was her assistance rendered 
or proffered to Austria in 1798-9 which gave Napoleon 
his pretext for crushing her. Her recent struggle for 
independence, though fruitless, was respectable, and pro- 
tracted beyond the verge of Hope ; and not even Royalist 
mendacity has yet pretended that her revolt from Austria, 
or her prolonged defence under bombardment and severe 
privation was the work of foreigners. But the Croat again 
lords it in her halls ; Trieste is stealing away her remnant 
of trade ; and the Railroads which should regain or replace 
it are postponed from year to year, and may never be 
completed, or at least not until it is utterly too late. Weeds 
gather around the marble steps of her palaces ; her towers 
are all swerving from their original uprightness, and there 
*s neither energy nor means to arrest their fall Nobody 



VENICE. 237 

builds a new edifice within her precincts, and the old ones, 
though of the most enduring materials and construction, 
cannot eternally resist the relentless tooth of Time. Full of 
interest as is everything in Venice, I do not remember to 
have detected there the effectual working of a single idea of 
the last century, save in the Railroad, which barely touches 
without enlivening her, the solitary steamboat belonging 
to Trieste, and two or three larger gondolas marked 
" Omnibus" this or that, which appeared to be conveying 
good loads of passengers from one end of the city to the 
other for one-sixth or eighth of the price which the same 
journey solus cost me. The Omnibus typifies Association 
— the simple but grandly fruitful idea which is destined to 
renovate the world of Industry and Production, substitut- 
ing Abundance and Comfort for Penury and Misery. For 
Man, I trust, this quickening word is yet seasonable ; for 
Venice it is too late. It is far easier to found two new 
cities than to restore one dead one. Fallen Queen of the 
Adriatic ! a long and mournful Adieu ! 



XXX. 

LOMBARDY. 

Milan, Thursday, July 10, 1851. 

Lombardy is of course the richest and most productive 
portion of Italy. Piedmont alone vies with her, and is 
improving far more rapidly, but Lombardy has great 
natural capacities peculiarly her own. Her soil, fertile 
and easily tilled from the first, was long ago improved by 
a system of irrigation which, probably from small and 
casual beginnings, gradually overspread the whole table 
land, embracing, beside that of the Adige, the broad valley 
of the Po and the narrower intervals of its many tributa- 
ries, which, rushing down from the gorges of the Alps on 
the west and the north, are skillfully conducted so as to 
refresh and fertilize the whole plain, and, finding their way 
ultimately to the Po, are thence drawn again by new 
canals to render like beneficence to the lower, flatter 
intervals of Venezia and the Northern Papal States. No 
where can be found a region capable of supporting a larger 
population to the square mile than Lombardy. 

American Agriculture has just two arts to learn from 
Lombardy — Irrigation and Tree-Planting. Nearly all 
our great intervales might be irrigated immensely to the 
profit of their cultivators. Even where the vicinity of 
mountains or other high grounds did not afford the facility 
here taken advantage of, I am confident that many plains 
as well as valleys might be profitably irrigated by lifting 
water to the requisite height and thence distributing it* 



LOMBARDY. 239 

through little canals or ditches as here. Where a head of 
water may be obtained to supply the requisite power, the 
cost need not be considerable after the first outlay ; but, 
even though steam-power should be requisite, in connection 
with the admirable Pumping machinery of our day, Irriga- 
tion would pay liberally in thousands of cases. Such 
easily parched levels as those of New-Jersey and Long- 
Island would yield at least double their present product if 
thoroughly irrigated from the turbid streams and marshy 
ponds in their vicinity. Water itself is of course essential 
to the growth of every plant, but the benefits of Irrigation 
reach far beyond this. Of the fertilizing substances so 
laboriously and necessarily applied to cultivating lands, at 
least three times as great a proportion is carried off in 
running water as is absorbed and exhausted by the crops 
grown by their aid ; so that if Irrigation simply returned 
to the land as much fertility as the rains carry off, it would, 
with decent husbandry, increase in productiveness from 
year to year. The valley of the Nile is one example 
among many of what Irrigation, especially from rivers at 
their highest stage, will do for the soil, in defiance of the 
most ignorant, improvident and unskillful cultivation. 
Such streams as the Raritan, the Passaic and most of the 
New- Jersey rivers, annually squander upon the ocean an 
amount of fertilizing matter adequate to the comfortable 
subsistence of thousands. By calculation, association, 
science, labor, most of this may be saved. One hundred 
thousand of the poor immigrants annually arriving on our 
shores ought to be employed for years, in New- Jersey 
alone, in the construction of dams, canals, &c, adequate 
to the complete irrigation of all the level or moderately 
sloping lands in that State. Farms are cheaper there 
to-day than in Iowa for purchasers who can pay for and 
know how to use them. Long Island can be rendered 
eminently fertile and productive by systematic and thorough 
Irrigation ; otherwise I doubt that it ever will be 



240 GLANCES AT EUROPE. 

Much of Lombardy slopes very considerably toward the 
Po, so that the water in the larger or distributing canals is 
often used to run mills and supply other mechanical power. 
It might be used also for Manufacturing if Manufactures 
existed here, and nearly every farmer might have a horse- 
power or so at command for domestic uses if he chose. 
We passed yesterday the completely dry beds of what 
seemed to be small rivers, their water having been entirely 
drawn away into the irrigating canals on either side, while 
on either hand there were grist-mills busily at work, and 
had been for hundreds of years, grinding by water-power 
where no stream naturally existed. If I mistake not, there 
are many such in this city, and in nearly all the cities and 
villages of Lombardy. If our farmers would only investi- 
gate this matter of Irrigation as thoroughly as its importance 
deserves, they would find that they have neglected mines 
of wealth all around them more extensive and far more 
reliable than those of California. One man alone may not 
always be able to irrigate his farm except at too great a 
cost ; but let the subject be commended to general 
attention, and the expense would be vastly diminished. 
Ten thousand farms together, embracing a whole valley, 
may often be irrigated for less than the cost of supplying 
a hundred of them separately. I trust our Agricultural 
papers will agitate this improvement. 

As to Tree-Planting, there can be no excuse for neglect- 
ing it, for no man needs his neighbor's cooperation to 
render it economical or effective. We in America have 
been recklessly destroying trees quite long enough ; it is 
high time that we began systematically to reproduce them. 
There is scarcely a farm of fifty acres or over in any but 
the very newest States that might not be increased in 
value $1,000 by $100 judiciously expended in Tree- 
Planting, and a little care to protect the young trees from 
premature destruction. All road-sides, steep hill-sides, 
ravines and rocky places should be planted with Oak> 



LOMBARDY. 241 

Hickory, Chestnut, Pine, Locust, &c, at once, and many 
a farm would, after a few years, yield 8100 worth of 
Timber annually, without subtracting $10 from the crops 
otherwise depended on. By planting Locust, or some 
other fast-growing tree, alternately with Oak, Hickory, 
&c, the former would be ready for use or sale by the time 
the latter needed the whole ground. Utility, beauty, 
comfort, profit, all combine to urge immediate and exten- 
sive Tree-Planting ; shall it not be commenced ? 

Here in Lombardy there is absolutely no farm, however 
small, without its rows of Mulberry, Poplar, Walnut, Cherry, 
&c, overshadowing its canals, brooks, roads, &c, and 
traversing its fields in all directions. The Vine is very 
generally trained on a low tree, like one of our Plum or 
small Cherry trees, so that, viewed at a distance or a point 
near the ground, the country would seem one vast forest, 
with an undergrowth mainly of Wheat and Indian Corn. 
Potatoes, Barley, Rye, &c, are grown, but none of them 
extensively, nor is much of the soil devoted to Grass. 
There are no forests, properly so called, but a few rocky 
hill-sides, which occur at intervals, mainly about half way 
from Venice to Milan, are covered with shrubbery which 
would probably grow to trees if permitted. Wheat and 
all Summer Grains are very good ; so is the Grass ; so the 
Indian Corn will be where it is not prevented by the vicious 
crowding of the plants and sugar-loaf hoeing of which I 
have frequently spoken. I judge that Italy altogether, 
with an enormous area planted, will realize less than half 
the yield she would have from the same acres with judi- 
cious cultivation. With Potatoes, nearly the same mistake 
is made, but the area planted with these is not one-tenth 
that of Corn and the blunder far less vital. 

This ought to be the richest country in the world, yet 
its people and their dwellings do not look as if it were so. 
I have seen a greater number of Soldiers and Beggars in 
passing through it than of men at work ; and nearly all 



242 GLANCES AT EUROPE. 

work out-doors here who work at all. The dwellings are 
generally shabby, while Barns are scarce, and Cattle are 
treading out the newly harvested wheat under the blue 
sky. New houses and other signs of improvement are 
rare, and the people dispirited. And this is the garden of 
sunny, delicious Italy ! 

THE ITALIANS. 

I leave Italy with a less sanguine hope of her speedy 
liberation than I brought into it. The day of her regene- 
ration must come, but the obstacles are many and for- 
midable. Most palpable among these is an insane spirit 
of local jealousy and rivalry only paralleled by the " Cork- 
onian" and " Far-down" feud among the Irish. Genoa is 
jealous of Turin ; Turin of Milan ; Florence of Leghorn ; 
and so on. If Italy were a Free Republic to-day, there 
would be a fierce quarrel, and I fear a division, on the 
question of locating its metropolis. Rome would consider 
herself the natural and prescriptive capital ; Naples would 
urge her accessible position, unrivaled beauty and ascend- 
ency in population ; Florence her central and healthful 
location ; Genoa her extensive commerce and unshaken 
devotion to Republican Freedom, &c, &c. And I should 
hardly be surprised to see some of these, chagrined by an 
adverse decision, leaguing with foreign despots to restore 
the sway of the stronger by way of avenging their fancied 
wrongs ! 

And it is too true that ages of subjugation have demo- 
ralized, to a fearful extent, the Italian People. Those who 
would rather beg, or extort, or pander to others' vices, 
than honestly work for a living, will never do anything for 
Freedom ; and such are deplorably abundant in Italy. 
Then, like most nations debased by ages of Slavery, these 
people have little faith in each other The proverb that 
" No Italian has two friends" is of Italian origin. Every 
one fears that his confederate may prove a traitor, and if 



THE ITALIANS. 243 

one is heard openly cursing the Government as oppressive 
and intolerable in a cafe or other public resort, though the 
sentiment is heartily responded to, the utterer is suspected 
and avoided as a Police stool-pigeon and spy. Such 
mutual distrust necessarily creates or accompanies a lack 
of moral courage. There are brave and noble Italians, 
but the majority are neither brave nor noble. There were 
gallant spirits who joyfully poured out their blood for 
Freedom in 1848-9, but nine-tenths of those who wished 
well to the Liberal cause took precious good care to keep 
their carcases out of the reach of Austrian or French 
bullets. Even in Rome, where, next to Venice, the most 
creditable resistance was made to Despotism, the greater 
part of the actual fighting was done by Italians indeed, but 
refugees from Lombardy, Tuscany and other parts of Italy. 
Had the Romans who heartily desired the maintenance 
of the Republic shown their faith by their works, Naples 
would have been promptly revolutionized and the French 
driven back to their ships. On this point, I have the testi- 
mony of eye-witnesses of diverse sentiments and of unim- 
peachable character. Rome is heartily Republican to-day ; 
but I doubt whether three effective regiments could be 
raised from her large native population to fight a single 
fair battle which was to decide the fate of Italy. So with 
the whole country except Piedmont, and perhaps Genoa 
and Venice. I wish the fact were otherwise ; but there 
can be no use in disguising or mis-stating it. Italy is not 
merely enslaved but debased, and not till after years of 
Freedom will the mass of her people evince consistently 
the spirit or the bearing of Freemen. She must be freed 
through the progress of Liberal ideas in France and Ger- 
many — not by her own inherent energies. Not till her 
masses have learned to look more coolly down the throats 
of loaded and hostile cannon in fair daylight and be a little 
less handy with their knives in the dark, can they be relied 
on to do anything for the general cause of Freedom. 



"244 GLANCES AT EUROPE. 



THE AUSTRIANS. 



I have not been able to dislike the Austrians personally. 
Their simple presence in Italy is a grievous wrong and 
mischief, since, so long as they hold the Italians in subjec- 
tion, the latter can hardly begin the education which is to 
fit them for Freedom. Yet it is none the less true that the 
portion of Italy unequivocally Austrian is better governed 
and enjoys, not more Liberty, for there is none in either, 
but a milder forni of Slavery, than that which prevails in 
Naples, Rome, Tuscany, and the paltrier native despotisms. 
I can now understand, though I by no means concur in, 
the wish of a quasi Liberal friend who prays that Austria 
may just take possession of the whole Peninsula, and 
abolish the dozen diverse Tariffs, Coinages, Mails, Armies, 
Courts, &c. &c, which now scourge this natural Paradise. 
He thinks that such an absorption only can prepare Italy 
for Liberty and true Unity ; I, on the contrary, fear that 
it would fix her in a more hopeless Slavery. Yet it 
certainly would render the country more agreeable to 
strangers, whether sojourners or mere travelers. 

The Austrian soldiers, regarded as mere fighting ma- 
chines, are certainly well got up. They are palpably the 
superiors, moral and physical, of the French who garrison 
Rome, and they are less heartily detested by the People 
whom they are here to hold in subjection. Their discipline 
is admirable, but their natural disposition is likewise quiet 
and inoffensive. I have not heard of a case of any one 
being personally insulted by an Austrian since I have been 
in Italy. — Knowing themselves to be intensely disliked in 
* Italy and yet its uncontrolled masters, it would seem but 
natural that they should evince something of bravado and 
haughtiness, but I have observed or heard of nothing of 
the kind. In fact, the bearing of the Austrians, whether 
officers or soldiers, has seemed to evince a quiet conscious- 



LEAVING ITALY. 245 

ness of strength, and to say, in the least offensive manner 
possible — "We are masters here by virtue of our good 
swords — if you dispute the right, look well that you have 
a sharper weapon and a vigorous arm to wield it !" To a 
rule which thus answers all remonstrances against its ex- 
istence by a quiet telling off of its ranks and a faultless 
marching of its determined columns, what further argument 
can be opposed but that of bayonet to bayonet ? I really 
cannot see how the despot-governed, Press-shackled, une- 
ducated Nations are ever to be liberated under the guid- 
ance of Peace Societies and their World's Conventions; 
and, horrible as all War is and ever must be, I deem a few 
battles a lesser evil than the perpetuity of such mental and 
physical bondage as is now endured by Twenty Millions 
of Italians. When the Peace Society shall have persuad- 
ed the Emperor Nicholas or Francis-Joseph to disband his 
armies and rely for the support of his government on its 
intrinsic justice and inherent moral force, I shall be ready 
to enter its ranks ; but while Despotism, Fraud and Wrong 
are triumphantly upheld by Force, I do not see how Free- 
dom, Justice and Progress can safely disclaim and repudiate 
the only weapons that tyrants fear — the only arguments 
they regard 

LEAVING ITALY. 

I have not been long in Italy, yet I have gone over 
a good share of its surface, and seen nearly all that I much 
desired to see, except Naples and its vicinity, with the 
Papal territory on the Perugia route from Rome to Flo- 
rence; I should have liked more time in Genoa, Rome, 
Florence and Venice; but sight-seeing was never a pas- 
sion with me, and I soon tire of wandering from ruin 
to ruin, church to church, and gallery to gallery. Yet 
when I stop gazing the next impulse is to move on ; for if 
I have time to rest anywhere, why not at home ? Hotel life 



246 GLANCES AT EUROPE. 

among total strangers was never agreeable to me — (was it 
to any one ?) — and I do not like that of Italy so well as I 
at first thought I should. The attendance is well enough, 
and as to food, I make a point of never quarreling with 
that I have ; though meals far simpler than those served at 
the regular hotel dinners here would suit me much better. 
The charges in general are quite reasonable, though I have 
paid one or two absurd bills. It was at first right pleasant 
to lodge in what was once a palace, and I still deem a 
large, high, airy sleeping-room, such as we seldom have in 
American hotels, but are common here, a genuine luxury. 
But when with such rooms you have doors that don't shut, 
so as to stay, windows that won't open, locks that won't 
hold, bolts that won't slide and fleas that won't — ah ! wont 
they bite ! — the case is somewhat altered. I should not 
like to end my days in Italy. 

As to the People, if I shall seem to have spoken of them 
disparagingly, it has not been unkindly. I cherish an 
earnest desire for their well-being. They do not need 
flattery, and do not, as a body, deserve praise. Of what are 
sometimes called the " better classes " (though I believe they 
are here no better), I have seen little, and have not spoken 
specially. Of the great majority who, here, as everywhere, 
must exert themselves to live, whether by working, or beg- 
ging, or petty swindling, I have seen something, and of 
these certain leading characteristics are quite unmistakable. 
An Italian Picture-Gallery seems to me a pretty fair type 
of the Italian mind and character. The habitual com- 
mingling of the awful with the paltry — the sacred and the 
sensual — Madonna and Circe — Christ on the Cross and 
Venus in the Bath — which is exhibited in all the Italian 
galleries, seems an expression of the National genius. Am 
I wrong in the feeling that the perpetual (and often 
execrable) representation of such awful scenes as the 
Crucifixion is calculated first to shock but ultimately to 
weaken the religious sentiment ? Of the hundreds of 



LEAVING ITALY. 247 

pictures of the infant Jesus I have seen in Italy, there are 
not five which did not strike me as utterly unworthy of 
the subject, allowing that it ought to be represented at all. 
" Men of Athens !" said the straight-forward Paul, " I per- 
ceive that in all things ye are too superstitious." I think 
the Italians, quite apart from what is essential to their 
creed, have this very failing, and that it exerts a debilitat- 
ing influence on their National character. They need to 
be cured of it, as well as of the vices I have already indi- 
cated, in order that their magnificent country may resume 
its proper place among great and powerful Nations. I 
trust I am not warring on the faith of their Church, when 
I urge that " To do justice and judgment is more accep- 
table to the Lord than sacrifice " — that no man can be 
truly devout who is not strictly upright and manly — and 
that one living purpose of diffusive, practical well-doing, is 
more precious in the sight of Heaven, than the bones of 
all the dead Saints in Christendom. 

Farewell, trampled, soul-crushed Italy ! 



XXXI. 
SWITZERLAND. 

Lucerne, July 12, 1851. 
I left Milan at 5 o'clock, on the morning of the 10th, 
via Railroad to Como, at the foot of the Lake of like name, 
which we reached in an hour and a half, thence taking the 
Swiss Government Diligence for this place, via the pass 
of St. Gothard. Even before reaching Como (only some 
twenty miles from Milan), the spurs of the Alps had begun 
to gather around us, and the little Lake itself is completely 
embosomed by them. Barely skirting its southern border, 
we crossed the Swiss frontier and bade adieu to the Pass- 
port swindle for a season, crossed a ridge into the valley of 
Lake Lugano, which we skirted for two-thirds its length, 
crossing it by a fine stone bridge near its center. (All the 
Swiss lakes I have seen are very narrow for a good part 
of their length, of a greenish blue color, derived from the 
mountain snows, very irregular in their form, being shut 
in, narrowed and distorted by the bold cliffs which crowd 
them on one side or on both, often reducing them to a 
crooked strait, resembling the passage of the Highlands by 
the Hudson.) Threading the narrow streets of the 
pleasant village of Lugano, we struck boldly up the hill to 
the east, and over it into the valley of the little river 
Ticino, which we reached at Bellinzona, a smart town of 
some five to ten thousand inhabitants, and followed the river 
thence to its source in the eternal snows of Mount St. 
Gothard. All this is, I believe, in the Canton of Ticino, in 



SWITZERLAND. 249 

which Italian is the common language, and of which 
Bellinzona is the chief town. 

Although in Switzerland, shut in by steep mountains, 
often snow-crowned, which leave it an average width of 
less than half a mile, this valley is Italian in many of its 
natural characteristics. For two-thirds of its length, 
Wheat, Indian Corn and the Vine are the chief objects of 
attention, and every little patch of level ground, save the 
rocky bed of the impetuous mountain torrent, is laboriously, 
carefully cultivated. Such mere scraps of earth do not 
admit of efficient husbandry, but are made to produce 
liberally by dint of patient effort. I should judge that a 
peck of corn is about the average product of a day's work 
through all this region. There is some pasturage, mainly 
on the less abrupt declivities far up the mountains, but not 
one acre in fifty of the Canton yields aught but it may be 
a little fuel for the sustenance of man. Nature is here a 
rugged mother, exacting incessant toil of her children as 
the price of the most frugal subsistence ; but under such 
skies, in the presence of so much magnificence, and in a 
land of equality and freedom, mere life is worth working 
for, and the condition is accepted with a hearty alacrity. 
Men and women work together, and almost equally, in the 
fields ; and here, where the necessity is so palpably of 
Nature's creation, not Man's, the spectacle is far less 
revolting than on the fertile plains of Piedmont or Lom- 
bardy. The little patch of Wheat is so carefully reaped 
that scarcely a grain is left, and children bear the sheaves 
on their backs to the allotted shelter, while mothers and 
maidens are digging up the soil with the spade, and often 
pulling up the stubble with their hands, preparatory to 
another crop. Switzerland could not afford to be a King- 
dom, — the expense of a Court and Royal Family would 
famish half her people. Yet everywhere are the signs of 
frugal thrift and homely content. I met only two beggars 
in that long day's ride through sterile Switzerland, while 



250 GLANCES AT EUROPE. 

in a similar ride through the fertile plains of Italy I should 
have encountered hundreds, though there each day's labor 
produces as much as three days' do here. If the Swiss 
only could live at home, by the utmost industry and 
economy, I think they would very seldom be found else- 
where ; but in truth the land has long been peopled to the 
extent of its capacity for subsisting, and the steady increase 
wmich their pure morals and simple habits ensure must 
drive off thousands in search of the bread of honest toil. 
Hence their presence elsewhere, in spite of their passionate 
attachment to their free native hills. 

Most of the dwellings through all this region are built 
of stone — those of the poor very rudely, of the roughest 
boulders, commonly laid up with little or no mortar. The 
roofs are often of split stone. The houses of the more 
fortunate class are generally of hewn or at least tolerably 
square-edged stone, laid up in mortar, often plastered and 
whitened on the outside, so as to present a very neat 
appearance. Barns are few, and generally of stone also. 
The Vine is quite extensively cultivated, and often trained 
on a rude frame-work of stakes and poles, so as completely 
to cover the ground and forbid all other cultivation. Else- 
where it is trained to stakes — rarely to dwarf trees as in 
Italy. The Mulberry holds its ground for two-thirds of 
the way up the valley, giving out a little after the Vine 
and before Indian Corn doe- so. Wheat gives place to 
Rye about the same time, and the Potato, at first compara- 
tively rare, becomes universal. As the Mulberry gives 
out the Chestnut comes in, and flourishes nobly for some 
ten or twenty miles about midway from Bellinzona to 
Airolo. I suspect, from the evident care taken of it. that 
its product is considerably relied on for food. Finally, as 
we gradually ascend, this also disappears, leaving Rye and 
the Potato to struggle a while longer, until at Airolo, at 
the foot of St. Gothard, where we stopped at 10 o'clock 
for the night, though the valley forks and is consequently 



SWITZERLAND. 251 

of some width, there remain only a few slender potato- 
stalks, in shivering expectation of untimely frost, a patch 
or two of headless oats, with grass on the slopes, still 
tender and green from the lately sheltering snows, and a 
dwarfish hemlock clinging to the steep acclivities and hid- 
ing from the fierce winds in the deep ravines which run 
up the mountains. Snow is in sight on every side, and 
seems but a mile or so distant. Yet here are two petty 
villages and thirty or forty scattered dwellings, whose 
inhabitants keep as many small cows and goats as they 
can find grass for, and for the rest must live mainly by 
serving in the hotels, or as postillions, road-makers, &c. 
Yet no hand was held out to me in beggary at or around 
Airolo. 

ST. GOTKARD. 

We did not start till after 9 next morning, and mean- 
time some more Diligences had come up, so that we formed 
a procession of one large and heavy, followed by three 
smaller and more fit carriages, when we moved out of the 
little village, and, leaving the larger branch of our creek, 
now a scanty mill-stream at best, to bend away to the left, 
we followed the smaller and charged boldly up the moun- 
tain. The ascent is of course made by zig-zags, no other 
mode being practicable for carriages, so that, when we 
had traveled three toilsome miles, Airolo still lay in sight, 
hardly a mile below us. I judge the whole ascent, which 
with a light carriage and three hard-driven horses occupied 
two hours and a half, was about eight miles, though a 
straight line might have taken us to the summit in three 
miles. The rise in this distance must have been near five 
thousand feet. 

For a time, the Hemlocks held on, but at length they 
gave up, before we reached any snow, and only a little 
weak young Grass, — nourished rather by the perpetual 



252 GLANCES AT EUROPE. 

mists or rains than by the cold, sour earth which clung tc 
the less precipitous rocks, — remained to keep us company. 
Soon the snow began to appear beside us, at first timidly, 
on the north side of cliffs, and in deep chasms, where it 
was doubtless drifted to the depth of thirty feet during the 
Winter, and has been gradually thawing out since May. 
At length it stood forth unabashed beside our road, often 
a solid mass six or seven feet thick, on either side of the 
narrow pass which had been cut and worn through it for 
and by the passage of travelers. Meantime, the drizzling 
rain, which had commenced soon after w T e started, had 
changed to a, spitting, watery sleet, and at length to snow, 
a little before we reached the summit of the pass, where 
we found a young Nova Zembla. An extensive cloud- 
manufactory was in full blast all around us, shutting out 
from view even the nearest cliffs, while the snow and wind 
— I being on the outside and somewhat wet already — 
made our short halt there anything but comfortable. The 
ground was covered with snow to an average depth of two 
or three feet ; the brooks ran over beds of ice and under 
large heaps of drifted and frozen snow, and all was sullen 
and cheerless. Here were the sources (in part) of the Po 
and of the Rhine, but I was rather in haste to bid the 
former good-bye. 

We reduced our three-horse establishment to two, and 
began to descend the Rhineward zig-zags at a rattling 
pace, our driver (and all the drivers) hurrying all the way. 
We reached the first village (where there was considerable 
Grass again, and some Hemlock, but scarcely any attempts 
at cultivation), in fifty minutes, and I think the distance 
was nearly five miles. " Jehu, the son of Nimshi/' could 
not have done the distance in five minutes less. 

We changed horses and drivers at this village, but pro- 
ceeded at a similar pace down through the most hideous 
chasm for the next two or three miles that I ever saw. 1 
doubt whether a nidit-mare ever beat it. The descent of 



ST. GOT11AKD. 253 

the stream must have been fully 1,500 feet to the mile for 
a good part of this distance, while the mountains rose 
naked and almost perpendicular on each side from its very 
bed to bights of one to two thousand feei, without a shrub, 
and hardly a resting-place even for snow. Down this 
chasm our road wound, first on one side of the rivulet, then 
on the other, crossing by narrow stone bridges, often at 
the sharpest angle with the road, making zig-zags wherever 
space could be found or made for them, now passing 
through a tunnel cut through the solid rock, and then 
under a long archway built over it to protect it from 
avalanches at the crossing of a raving cataract down the 
mountain side. And still the staving pace at which we 
started was kept up by those on the lead, and imitated by 
the boy driving our carriage, which was hindmost of all. 
I was just thinking that, though every one should know his 
own business best, yet if 1 were to drive down a steep 
mountain in that way I should expect to break my neck, 
and suspect I deserved it, when, as we turned a sharp 
zig-zag on a steep grade at a stiff trot, our carriage tilted, 
and over she went in a twinkling. 

Our horses behaved admirably, w 7 hich in an upset is 
always half the battle. Had they started, the Diligence 
managers could only have rendered a Flemish account of 
that load. As it was, they stopped, and the driver, barely 
scratched, had them in hand in a minute. 

I was on the box-seat with him, and fell under him, 
catching a bad sprain of the left wrist, on which J came 
down, which disables that hand for a few days — nothing 
broken and no great harm done — only a few liberal rents 
and trifling bruises. But I should judge that our heads lay 
about three feet from the side of the road, which was a 
precipice of not more than twenty feet, but the rocks 
below looked particularly jagged and uninviting. 

Our four inside passengers had been a good deal mixed 
up, in the concussion, but soon began to emerge seriatim 

12 



254 GLANCES AT EUROPE. 

from the side door which in the fall came uppermost — only 
one of them much hurt, and he by a bruise or gash on the 
head nowise dangerous. Each, as his or her head pro- 
truded through the aperture, began to "let in" on the 
driver, whose real fault was that of following bad exam- 
ples. I was a little riled at first myself, but the second 
and last lady who came out put me in excellent humor. 
She was not hurt, but had her new silk umbrella broken 
square in two, and she flashed the pieces before the delin- 
quent's eyes and reeled off the High Dutch to him with 
vehement volubility. I wished I could have understood 
her more precisely. Though not more than eighteen, she 
developed a tongue that would have done credit to forty. 

The drivers ahead stopped and came back, helped right 
the stage, and each took a shy at the unlucky charioteer, 
though in fact they were as much in fault as he, only more 
fortunate. I suspected before that this trotting down 
zig-zags was not the thing, and now I know it, and shall 
remember it, at least for one week. And I have given 
this tedious detail to urge and embolden others to remon- 
strate against it. The vice is universal — at least it was 
just as bad at Mount Cenis as here, and here were four 
carriages all going at the same reckless pace. The truth 
is, it is not safe to trot down such mountains and hardly 
to ride down them at all. We passed scores of places 
where any such unavoidable accident as the breaking of 
a reach or a hold-back must have sent the whole concern 
over a precipice where all that reached the bottom would 
hardly be worth picking up. Who has a right to risk his 
life in this fool-hardy manner ? 

The next time I cross the Alps, I will take my seat for 
the stopping-place at the nearer foot, and thence walk 
leisurely over, with a long staff and a water-proof coat, 
sending on my baggage by the coach to the hotel on the 
other side. If I can get an hour's start, I can (by straight- 
ening the zig-zags) nearly double it going up ; if not, I will 



ST. GOTHARD. 255 

wait on the other side for the next stage. If it were not 
for the cowardly fear of being thought" timid, there would 
be more care used in such matters. Hitherto, I have not 
given the subject much consideration, but I turn over a 
new leaf from the date of this adventure. 

We came down the rest of the mountain more carefully, 
though still a great deal too fast. A girl of twelve or 
thirteen breaking stone by the road-side in a lonely place 
was among the note-worthy features of the wilder upper 
region. Trees, Potato-patches, Grain-fields were welcome 
sights as we neared them successively, though the Vine 
and the Chestnut did not and Indian Corn barely did 
reappear on this side, which is much colder than the other 
and grows little but Grass. At the foot of the pass, the 
valley widened a little, though still with steep, snow-capped 
cliffs crowding it on either side. Five hours from the 
summit and less than two from the base, we reached the, 
pretty town of Altorf, having perhaps five thousand 
inhabitants, with a mile width of valley and grassy slopes 
on the surrounding mountains. A few minutes more brought 
us to the petty port of Fluellen on Lake Lucerne, where a 
little steamboat was waiting to bring us to this city. I 
would not just then have traded off that steamboat for 
several square miles of snow-capped sublimity. 

Lake Lucerne is a mere cleft in the mountains, narrow 
and most irregular in form, with square cliffs like our Pali- 
sades, only many times higher, rising sheer out of its depths 
and hardly a stone's throw apart. Mount Pilatte and The 
Rhigi are the most celebrated of those seen from its breast. 
After making two or three short turns among the hights, 
it finally opens to a width of some miles on a softer scene, 
with green pastures and pleasant woods sweeping down 
the hills nearly or quite to its verge. Lucerne City lies 
at or near its outlet, and seems a pleasant place, though I 
have had no time to spend upon it, as I arrived at 8-§- P. M. 
too weary even to write if I had been able to sleep. I 
leave for Basle by Diligence at eight this morning. 



XXXII. 
LUCERNE TO BASLE. 

Basle, July 13, 1851. 

Very striking is the contrast between all of Switzerland 
I had traversed, before reaching Lucerne, and the route 
thence to this place. From Como to the middle of Lake 
Lucerne is something over a hundred miles, and in all 
that distance there was never so much as one-tenth of the 
land in sight that could, by any possibility, be cultivated. 
The narrow valleys, when not too narrow, were arable and 
generally fertile ; but they were shut in on every side by 
dizzy precipices, by lofty mountains, often snow-crowned, 
and either wholly barren or with only a few shrubs and 
stunted trees clinging to their clefts and inequalities, 
because nothing else could cling there. A fortieth part of 
these mountain sides may have been so moderately steep 
that soil could gather and lie on them, in which case they 
yielded fair pasturage for cattle, or at least for goats : but 
nine-tenths of their superficies were utterly unproductive 
and inhospitable. On the mountain-tops, indeed, there is 
sometimes a level space, but the snow generally monopo- 
lizes that. Such is Switzerland from the Italian frontier, 
where I crossed it, to the immediate vicinity of Lucerne. 

Here all is changed. A small but beautiful river 
debouches from the lake at its west end, and the town is 
grouped around this outlet. But mountains here there are 
none — nothing but rich glades and gently swelling hills, 
covered with the most bounteous harvest, through which 



LUCERNE TO BASLE. 257 

the high road runs north-easterly some sixty miles to Basle 
on the Rhine in the north-east corner of Switzerland, with 
Germany (Baden) on the east and France on the north. 
A single ridge, indeed, on this route presents a ragged cliff 
or two and some heights dignified with the title of moun- 
tains, which seem a joke to one who has just spent two 
days among the Alps. 

Grass is the chief staple of this fertile region, but Wheat 
is abundantly grown and is just beginning to ripen, promis- 
ing a noble yield. Potatoes also are extensively planted, 
and I never saw a more vigorous growth. Rye, Oats and 
Barley do well, but are little cultivated. Of Indian Corn 
there is none, and the Vine, which had given out on the 
Italian side some twenty miles below the foot of St. 
Gothard, does not come in again till we are close to the 
Rhine. But in its stead they have the Apple in profusion 
— I think more Apple-trees between Lucerne and the 
Rhine, than I had seen in all Europe before — and they 
seem very thrifty, though this year's yield of fruit will be 
light. There are some other trees planted, and many 
small, thrifty forests, such as I had hardly seen before on 
the Continent. These increase as we approach the Rhine. 
There is hardly a fence throughout, and generous crops of 
Wheat, Potatoes, Rye, Grass, Oats, &c, are growing close 
up to the beaten road on either side. I don't exactly see 
how Cattle are driven through such a country, having 
passed no drove since crossing Mount St. Gothard. 

The dwellings are generally large, low structures, with 
sloping, overhanging roofs, indicating thrift and comfort. 
Sometimes the first story, or at least the basement, is of 
hewn-stone, but the greater part of the structure is nearly 
always of wood. The barns are spacious, and built much 
like the houses. I have passed through no other part of 
Europe evincing such general thrift and comfort as this 
quarter of Switzerland, and Basle, already a well built 
city, is rapidly improving. When the Railroad line from 



258 GLANCES AT EUROPE. 

Paris to Strasburg is completed, the French capital will be 
but little more than twenty-four hours from Basle, while 
the Baden line, down the German side of the Rhine, 
already connects this city easily with all Germany, and is 
certain of rapid and indefinite extension. Basle, though 
quite a town in Caesar's day, is renewing her youth. 

THE SWISS. 

I am leaving Switzerland, after four days only of obser- 
vation therein ; but during those days I have traversed the 
country from its southern to its north-eastern extremity, 
passing through six of the Cantons and along the skirts of 
another, resting respectively at Airolo, Lucerne, and Basle, 
and meeting many hundreds of the people on the way, 
beside seeing thousands in the towns and at work in their 
fields. This is naturally a very poor country, with for the 
most part a sterile soil — or rather, naked, precipitous rocks, 
irreclaimably devoid of soil — where, if anywhere, the poor 
peasantry would be justified in asking charity of the stran- 
gers who come to gaze at and enjoy their stupendous but 
most inhospitable mountains — and yet I have not seen one 
beggar to a hundred hearty workers, while in fertile, boun- 
teous, sunny Italy, the preponderance was clearly the other 
way. And, though very palpably a stranger, and specially 
exposed by my ignorance of the languages spoken here to 
imposition, no one has attempted to cheat me from the 
moment of my entering the Republic till this, while in 
Italy every day and almost every hour was marked by its 
peculiar extortions. Every where I have found kindness 
and truth written on the faces and evinced in the acts of 
this people, while in Italy rapacity and knavery are the 
order of the day. How does a monarchist explain this 
broad discrepancy ? Mountains alone will not do, for the 
Italians of the Apennines and the Abruzzi are notoriously 
very much like those of the Campagna and of the Val 



THE SWISS. 259 

d'Arno ; nor will the zealot's ready suggestion of diverse 
Faiths suffice, for my route has lain almost exclusively 
through the Catholic portion of this country. Ticino, Uri, 
Lucerne, etc., are intensely, unanimously Catholic ; the 
very roadsides are dotted with little shrines, enriched with 
the rudest possible pictures of the Virgin and Child, the 
Crucifixion, &c, and I think I did not pass a Protestant 
church or village till I was within thirty miles of this 
place. Nearly all the Swiss I have seen are Catholics, 
and a more upright, kindly, truly religious people I have 
rarely or never met. What, then, can have rendered them 
so palpably and greatly superior to their Italian neighbors, 
whose ancestors were the masters of theirs, but the preva- 
lence here of Republican Freedom and there of Imperial 
Despotism? 

Switzerland, shut out from equal competition with other 
nations by her inland, elevated, scarcely accessible position, 
has naturalized Manufactures on her soil, and they are 
steadily extending. She sends Millions' worth of Watches, 
Silks, &c, annually even to distant America ; while Italy, 
with nearly all her population within a day's ride of the 
Adriatic or the Mediterranean, with the rich, barbaric East 
at her doors for a market, does not fabricate even the rags 
which partially cover her beggars, but depends on England 
and France for most of the little clothing she has. Italy is 
naturally a land of abundance and luxury, with a soil and 
climate scarcely equalled on earth ; yet a large share of 
her population actually lack the necessaries, not to speak 
of the comforts, of life, and those who sow and reap her 
bountiful harvests are often without bread : Switzerland 
has, for the most part, an Arctic climate and scarcely any 
soil at all ; and yet her people are all decently clad and 
adequately though frugally fed, and I have not seen one 
person who seemed to have been demoralized by want or 
to suffer from hunger since I crossed her border. Her 
hotels are far superior to their more frequented namesakes 



260 GLANCES AT EUROPE. 

of Italy ; even at the isolated hamlet of Airolo, where no 
grain will grow, I found everything essential to cleanliness 
and comfort, while the " Switzer HofF" at Lucerne and 
"Les Trois Rois " at Basle are two of the very best houses 
I have found in Europe. What Royalist can satisfactorily 
explain these contrasts ? 

Switzerland, though a small country, and not half of this 
habitable, speaks three different languages. I found at 
Airolo regular files of Swiss journals printed respectively 
in French, Italian, and German : the last entirely baffled 
me; the two former I read after a fashion, making out 
some of their contents' purport and drift. Those in French, 
printed at Geneva, Lausanne, &c, were executed far more 
neatly than the others. All were of small size, and in good 
part devoted to spirited political discussion. Switzerland, 
though profoundly Republican, is almost equally divided 
into parties known respectively as " Radical " and " Con- 
servative : " the Protestant Cantons being preponderantly 
Radical, the Catholic generally Conservative. Of the pre- 
cise questions in dispute I know little and shall say nothing; 
but I do trust that the controversy will not enfeeble nor 
paralyze the Republic, now seriously menaced by the 
Allied Despots, who seem to have almost forgotten that 
there ever was such a man as William Tell. Let us 
drink, in the crystal current leaping brightly down from 
the eternal glaciers, to his glorious, inspiring memory, and 
to Switzerland a loving and hopeful Adieu! 



XXXIII. 
GERMANY. 

Cologne, Tuesday, July 15, 1851. 
After spending Sunday very agreeably at Basle (where 
American Protestants traveling may like to know that 
Divine worship is regularly conducted each Sabbath by 
an English clergyman, at the excellent Hotel of the Three 
Kings), I set my face again northward at 7-J- a. m. on 
Monday, crossing the Rhine (which is here about the size 
of the Hudson at Albany) directly into Baden, and so 
leaving the soil of glorious Switzerland, "the mountain home 
of Liberty amid surrounding despotisms. The nine first 
miles from Basle (to Efringen) are traversed by Omnibus, 
and thence a very good Railroad runs nearly parallel with 
the Rhine by Freiburg, Kehl (opposite Strasburg), Baden 
(at some distance), Rastatt, Carlsruhe, and Heidelberg, to 
Mannheim, distant from Basle 167^ miles by Railroad, and 
I presume considerably further by River, as the Rhine 
(unlike the Railroad as far as Heidelberg) is not very 
direct in its course. There is a French Railroad complet- 
ed on the other (west) side of the river from Basle to 
Strasburg, and nearly completed from Strasburg to Paris, 
which affords a far more direct and expeditious route than 
that I have chosen, as I wished to see something of Ger- 
many. It is also cheaper, I believe, to take the French 
Railroad to Strasburg, and the river thence by steamboats 
which ply regularly as high as Strasburg, and might keep 
on to Basle, I presume, if not impeded by bridges, as the 
river is amply large enough. 
12* 



262 GLANCES AT EUROPE. 

The Baaen Railroad runs through a country descending, 
indeed, toward the Rhine and with the Rhine, but as near- 
ly level as a country well can be, and affording the fewest 
possible obstacles to its construction. It is faithfully built, 
but instead of the numerous common roads which cross it 
being carried over or under its track, as the English Rail- 
roads are, they are closed on each side by a swing-bar, at 
which a guard is stationed — a plan which saves expense at 
the outset, but involves a heavy permanent charge. I 
should deem the English plan preferable to this, though 
men are had much cheaper for such service in Germany 
than in America, or even Great Britain. The pace is 
slower than with us. We were about nine hours of fair 
day-light traversing 160 miles of level. or descending grade, 
with a light passenger train. The management, however, 
was careful and unexceptionable. 

This Railroad runs for most of the distance much nearer 
to the range of gentle hills which bound the broad and 
fertile Rhine valley on the east than to the river itself. 
The valley is nearly bare of trees for the most part, and 
has scarcely any fences save the very slight board fence on 
either side of the Railroad. In some places, natural woods 
of considerable extent are permitted, but not many fruit 
nor shade-trees, whether in rows or scattered. The hills 
in sight, however, are very considerably wooded, and wood 
is apparently the common fuel. The valley is generally 
but not entirely irrigated, though all of it easily might be, 
the arrangements for irrigation appearing much more mo- 
dern and unsystematic here than in Lombardy. The land is 
cultivated in strips as in France — first Wheat (the great 
staple), then Rye, then Potatoes, then Clover, then Beets, 
or Hemp, or Flax, and so *on. For a small part of the 
way, Grass seems to preponderate, but generally Wheat 
and Rye cover more than half the ground, while Potatoes 
have a very large breadth of it. Rye is now being harvest- 
ed, and is quite heavy : in fact, all the crops promise 



GERMANY. 263 

abundant harvests. The Vine appears at intervals, but is 
not general through this region : Indian Corn is also rare, 
and appears in small patches. In some places many acres 
of Wheat are seen in one piece, but usually a breadth of 
four to twenty rods is given to one crop, and then another 
succeeds and so on. I presume this implies a diversity of 
owners, or at least of tenants. 

The cultivation, though not always judicious, is generally 
thorough, there being no lack of hands nor of good will. 
The day being fine and the season a hurrying one, the vast 
plain was everywhere dotted with laborers, of whom fully 
half were Women, reaping Rye, binding it, raking and 
pitching Hay, hoeing Potatoes, transplanting Cabbages, 
Beets, &c. They seemed to work quite as heartily and 
efficiently as the men. But the most characteristically 
European spectacle I saw was a woman unloading a great 
hay-wagon of huge cordwood at a Railroad station, and 
pitching over the heavy sticks with decided resolution and 
efficiency. It may interest the American pioneers in the 
Great Pantalette (or is it Pantaloon ?) Movement to know 
that she was attired in appropriate costume — short frock, 
biped continuations and^a mannish oil-skin hat. — And this 
reminds me that, coming away from Rome, I met, at the 
half-way house to Civita Vecchia, a French marching re- 
giment on its way from Corsica to the Eternal City, to 
which regiment two women were attached as sutlers, &c, 
who also wore the same costume, except that their hats 
were of wool instead of oil-skin. Thus attired, they had 
marched twenty-five miles that hot day, and were to march 
as many the next, as they had doubtless done on many 
former days. It certainly cannot be pretended that these 
women adopted that dress from a love of novelty, or a 
desire to lead a new fashion, or from any other reason 
than a sense of its convenience, founded on experience. 
I trust, therefore, that their unconscious testimony in be- 
half of the Great Movement may not be deemed irrelevant 



264 GLANCES AT EUROPE. 

nor unentitled to consideration. Their social rank is cer- 
tainly not the highest, but I consider them more likely to 
render a correct judgment on the merit of the Bloomer 
controversy than the Lady Patronesses of Almack's. 

THE RHINE. 

After spending the night at Mannheim, I took a steam- 
boat at 5 J this morning for this place, 165 miles down the 
Rhine, embracing all the navigable part of the river of 
which the scenery is esteemed attractive. As far down as 
Mayence or Mentz (55 miles), the low banks and broad 
intervale continue, and there is little worthy of notice. 
From Mentz to Coblentz (54 miles), there is some magnifi- 
cent scenery, though I think its natural beauties do not 
surpass those of the Hudson from New- York to Newburgh. 
Certainly there are no five miles equal in rugged grandeur 
to those beginning just below and ending above West 
Point. But the Rhine is here somewhat larger than the 
Hudson ; the hills on either side, though seldom absolutely 
precipitous, are from one to five hundred feet high, and are 
often crowned with the ruins of ancient castles, which 
have a very picturesque appearance ; while the little 
villages at their foot and the cultivation (mainly of the 
Vine) which is laboriously prosecuted up their rocky and 
almost naked sides, contribute to heighten the general 
effect. These sterile rocks impart a warmth to the soil 
and a sweetness to the grape which are otherwise found 
only under a more southerly sun, and, combined with the 
cheapness of labor, appear to justify the toilsome process 
of terracing up the steep hill-sides, and even carrying up 
earth in baskets to little southward-looking nooks and 
crevices where it may be retained and planted on. Yet I 
liked better than the vine-clad heights those less abrupt 
declivities where a more varied culture is attempted, and 
where the Vine is intermingled with strips of now ripened 



THE GERMANS. 265 

Rye, ripening Wheat, blossoming Potatoes, &c, &c, 
together imparting a variegated richness and beauty to the 
landscape which are rarely equaled. But the Rhine has 
been nearly written out, and I will pass it lightly over. 
Its towers are not very imposing in appearance, though 
Coblentz makes a fair show. Opposite is Ehrenbreitstein, 
no longer the ruin described (if I rightly remember) in 
Childe Harold, but a magnificent fortress, apparently in 
the best condition, and said to have cost Five Millions of 
dollars. The " blue Moselle " enters the Rhine from the 
west just below Coblentz. This city (Cologne) is the 
largest, I believe, in Rhenish Prussia, and, next to Rotter- 
dam at its mouth, the largest on the Rhine, having a 
flourishing trade and 90,000 inhabitants. (Coblentz has 
26,000, Mayence 36,000, Mannheim 23,000 and Strasburg 
60,000.) 

There are some bold hights dignified as mountains below 
Coblentz, but the finest of the scenery is above. The hills 
disappear some miles above this city, and henceforward to 
the sea all is flat and tame as a marsh. On the whole, 
the Rhine has hardly fulfilled my expectations. Had I 
visited it on my way to the Alps, instead of just from them, 
it would doubtless have impressed me more profoundly ; 
but I am sure the St. Mary's of Lake Superior is better 
worth seeing ; so I think, is the Delaware section of the 
Erie Railroad. It is possible the weather may have 
unfitted me for appreciating this famous river, for a more 
cloudy, misty, chilly, rainy, execrable, English day I have 
seldom encountered. To travelers blessed with golden 
sunshine, the Rhine may wear . a grander, nobler aspect, 
and to such I leave it. 

THE GERMANS. 

I have been but two days wholly among the Germans, 
but I had previously met many of them in England, Ttaly 



266 GLANCES AT EUROPE. 

and Switzerland. They are seen to the best advantage at 
home. Their uniform courtesy (save in the detestable 
habit of smoking where others cannot help being annoyed 
by their fumes), indicates not merely good nature but 
genuine kindness of heart. I have not seen a German 
quarreling or scolding anywhere in Europe. The deference 
of members of the same family to each other's happiness 
in cars, hotels and steamboats has that quiet, unconscious 
manner which distinguishes a habit from a holiday orna- 
ment. The entire absence of pretense, of stateliness, of 
a desire to be thought a personage and not a mere person, 
is scarcely more universal in Switzerland than here. But 
in fact I have found Aristocracy a chronic disease 
nowhere but in Great Britain. In France, there is abso- 
lutely nothing of it; there are monarchists in that country 
— monarchists from tradition, from conviction, from policy, 
or from class interest — but of Aristocracy scarcely a trace 
is left. Your Paris boot-black will make you a low bow 
in acknowledgment of a franc, but he has not a trace of 
the abjectness of a London waiter, and would evidently 
decline the honor of being kicked by a Duke. In Italy, 
there is little manhood but no class- worship ; her millions 
of beggars will not abase themselves one whit lower before 
a Prince than before anyone else from whom they hope to 
worm a copper. The Swiss are freemen, and wear the 
fact unconsciously but palpably on their brows and beaming 
from their eyes. The Germans submit passively to 
arbitrary power which they see not how successfully to 
resist, but they render to rank or dignity nc more homage 
than is necessary — their souls are still free, and their 
manners evince a simplicity and frankness which might 
shame or at least instruct America. On the Rhine, 
the steamboats are so small and shabby, without state- 
rooms, berth-rooms, or even an upper deck — that the 
passengers are necessarily at all times under each other's 
observation, and, as the fare is high, and twice as much in 



THE GERMANS. 267 

the main as in the forward cabin, it may be fairly presumed 
that among those who pay the higher charge are none of 
the poorest class — no mere laborers for wages. Yet in 
this main cabin well-dressed young ladies would take out 
their home-prepared dinner and eat it at their own good 
time without seeking the company and countenance of 
others, or troubling themselves to see who was observing. 
A Lowell factory-girl would consider this entirely out of 
character, and a New-York milliner would be shocked at 
the idea of it. 

The Germans are a patient, long-suffering race. Of 
their Forty Millions outside of Austria, probably less than 
an eighth at all approve or even acquiesce in the despotic 
policy in which their rulers are leagued, and which has 
rendered Germany for the present a mere outpost of 
Russia — an unfinished Poland. These people are intelli- 
gent as well as brave — they see and feel, yet endure and 
forbear. Perhaps their course is wiser than that which 
hot impatience would prompt — nay, I believe it is. If they 
can patiently suffer on without losing heart until France 
shall have extricated herself from the toils of her treacher- 
ous misrulers, they may then resume their rights almost 
without a blow. And whenever a new 1848 shall dawn 
upon them, they will have learned to improve its opportu- 
nities and avoid its weaknesses and blunders. Heaven 
speed its auspicious coming ! 



XXXIV. 
BELGIUM. 

Paris, Saturday, July 19, 1851. 

From Cologne westward by Railroad to the Western 
frontier (near Verviers) of Rhenish Prussia, and thus of 
Germany, is 65 miles. For most of the way the country 
is flat and fertile, and in good part devoted to Grazing, 
though considerable Wheat is grown. The farming is 
not remarkably good, and the general aspect befits a region 
which for two thousand years has been too often the arena 
of fierce and bloody conflict between the armies of great 
nations. Cologne itself, though a place of no natural 
strength, has been fortified to an extent and at an evident 
cost beyond all American conception. All over this part 
of Europe, and to a less degree throughout Italy, the 
amount of expenditure on walls and forts, bastions, ditches, 
batteries, &c. is incalculably great. I cannot doubt that 
any nation, by wisely expending half so much in systematic 
efforts to educate, employ steadily and reward amply its 
poorer classes, would have been strengthened and ensured 
against invasion far more than it could be by walls like 
precipices and a belt of fortresses as impregnable as 
Gibraltar. But this wisdom is slowly learned by rulers, 
and is not yet very widely appreciated. Whenever it 
shall be, " Othello's occupation " will be gone, not for 
Othello only, but for all who would live by the sword. 

For some miles before it reaches the frontier, and for a 
much larger distance after entering Belgium, the Railroad 



BELGIUM, 2G9 

passes through a decidedly broken, hilly, up-and-down 
country, most unlike the popular conception of Flanders 
or Belgium. Precipices of naked rock are not unfrequent 
and the region is wisely given up mainly to Wood and 
Grass, the former engrossing most of the hill-sides and the 
latter flourishing in the valleys. This Railroad has more 
tunnels in the course of fifty miles than I ever before met 
with — I think not less than a dozen — while the grading 
and bridging must have been very expensive. Such a 
country is of course prolific in running streams, on which 
many small and some larger manufacturing towns and 
villages are located. At length, it ascends a considerable 
inclined plane at Liege, once a very popular, powerful and 
still a handsome and important manufacturing town with 
60,000 inhabitants; and here the beautiful and magnifi- 
cently fertile table lands of Belgium spread out like a vast 
prairie before the traveler. In fact, the peasant cultivators 
are so commonly located in villages, leaving long stretches 
of the rarely fenced though well cultivated plain without a 
habitation, that the resemblance to level prairies which 
have been planted and sown is more striking than would 
be imagined. But the growing crops are too cleanly and 
carefully weeded and too uniformly good to protract the 
illusion. Sometimes hundreds of acres are unbrokenly 
covered with Wheat, which has the largest, area of any 
one staple ; but more commonly a breadth of this is suc- 
ceeded by one of Rye, that by one of Potatoes, then Wheat 
again, then Clover, then Rye, then Wheat, then Potatoes, 
then Clover or other grass, and so on. I never before saw 
so extensive and uniformly thrifty a growth of Potatoes, 
while acres upon acres of Beets, also in regular rows and 
kept carefully free from weeds, present at this season a 
beautiful appearance. I apprehend that not half so much 
attention has been given in our country to the growth of 
this and the kindred roots as would have been richly 
rewarded. Of course, it is idle to sow Beets on anv but 



270 GLANCES AT EUROPE. 

rich land, with a generous depth of soil and the most 
thorough cultivation, but with such cultivation the red 
lands of New-Jersey and the intervales of our rivers might 
be profitably and extensively devoted to the Beet culture 
and to that of the larger Turnips. I have seen nothing in 
Europe that made a better appearance or promised a more 
bountiful return than the large tracts of Belgium and the 
neighboring district of France sown to Beets. 

Indian Corn and the Vine are scarcely, or not at all 
een in Belgium. Beggars are net abundant; but women 
are required to labor quite extensively in the fields. The 
Tabitations of the poor are less wretched than those of 
Italy, but not equal to those of the fertile portion of Switz- 
erland. Irrigation is quite extensively practised, but is far 
from universal. The few cattle kept in the wholly arable 
and thoroughly cultivated portion of the country are seldom 
allowed to range, because of the lack offences, but are kept 
up and fed throughout the year. Women cutting grass in 
all by-places, and carrying it home by back-loads to feed 
their stock, is a common spectacle throughout central 
Europe. Trees sometimes line the roads and streams, or 
irrigating canals, and sometimes have a piece of ground 
allotted them whereon to grow at random, but are rather 
scarce throughout this region, and I think I saw square 
miles entirely devoid of them. Fruit-trees are clearly too 
scarce, though Cherries in abundance were offered for sale 
as we passed. On the whole, Belgium is not only a fertile 
but a prosperous country. 

At Liege, the Railroad we traversed leaves its westerly 
for a north-west course, running past Tirlemont to Malines 
(Mechlin) and thence to Antwerp; but we took a sharp 
turn to the south-west of Malines in order to reach Brus- 
sels, which, though the capital and the largest city of Bel- 
gium, is barely a point or stopping- place on a right line, 
while Liege, Namur, Ghent and Bruges are each the point 
of junction of two or more completed roads. Brussels 



NORTH-EASTERN FRANCE. 271 

has slept while this network has been woven over the 
country, and will awake to discover herself shorn of her 
trade and sinking into insignificance if she does not imme- 
diately bestir herself. Her location is a fine one, on a 
ground which rises very gradually from the great plain to 
a modest hill southward, and she is among the best built 
of modern cities. But already she is off the direct line 
from either London or Paris to Germany ; I would have 
saved many miles by avoiding her and taking the road due 
west from Liege to Namur, Charleroi and Mons, where it 
intersects the Brussels line ; and soon the great bulk of the 
travel will do so if it does not already. Railroads are 
reckless Radicals and are destined by turns to make and 
to mar the fortunes of many great emporiums. 

NORTH-EASTERN FRANCE. 

Tournay in the coal region, fifty miles from Brussels, is the 
lasttown of Belgium ; eight miles further is Valenciennes, 
one of the strong frontier fortresses of France, with over 
20.000 inhabitants, an active trade and the worth of a 
dukedom wasted on its fortifications. Here our baggage 
underwent a new custom-house scrutiny, which was expe- 
ditiously and rationally made, and I kept on twenty-three 
miles farther to Douai, where our Railroad falls into one 
from Calais, which had already absorbed those from Dun- 
kirk and Ghent, and where, it being after 10 o'clock, I 
halted for the night, so as to take a Calais morning train at 
A\ and see by fair day-light the country thence to Paris, 
which I had already traversed in the dark. 

This country presents no novel "features. It is not quite 
so level nor so perfectly cultivated as central Belgium, but 
is generally fertile and promises fairly. The Rye harvest 
is in progress through' all this country, and is very good, 
but the breadth of Wheat is much greater, and it also 
promises well, though not yet ripened. Westward from 



272 GLANCES AT EUROPE. 

Brussels in Belgium is an extensive Grazing region, boun- 
tifully irrigated, and covered with large herds of fine cattle. 
Something of this is seen after crossing into France, but 
Wheat regains its predominance, while large tracts are de- 
voted to the Beet, probably for the manufacture of Sugar. 
There are few American gardens that can show the Beet 
in greater perfection than it exhibits here, in areas of 
twenty to forty acres. Wood also becomes far more 
abundant in the Grazing region, and continues so nearly 
up to the walls of Paris, Poplars and other trees of slender 
foliage being planted in rows across the fields as well as by 
the streams and road-sides. The Vine, which had vanish- 
ed with the bolder scenery of the Rhine, reappears only 
within sight of Paris, where many of the cultivated fields 
attest a faultiness or meagerness of cultivation unworthy 
of the neighborhood of a great metropolis. I presume 
there will be more middling and half middling yields 
within twenty miles of Paris than in all Belgium. 

I find Paris, and measurably France, in a state of saluta- 
ry ferment, connected with the debate in the Assembly on 
the proposed Revision of the Constitution. The best 
speeches are yet to be made, but already the attention of 
the People is fixed on the discussion, and it will be follow- 
ed to the end with daily increased interest. That end, as 
is well known, will be a defeat of the proposed Revision, 
and of all schemes looking to the legal and peaceful rees- 
tablishment of Monarchy, or the reelection of Louis Na- 
poleon. And this discussion, this result, will have immense- 
ly strengthened the Republic in the hearts of the French 
Millions, as well as in the general conviction of its stability. 
And if, with the Suffrage crippled as it is, and probably 
must continue to be, a heartily Republican President can 
be elected here next May, an impulse will be given to the 
movement throughout Europe which can scarcely be with- 
stood. Live the Republic ! 



XXXV. 
PARIS TO LONDON. 

London, Tuesday July 22, 1851. 

The quickest and most usual route from Paris to Lon- 
don is that by way of Calais and Dover ; but as I had 
traversed that once, and part of it twice, I resolved to try 
another for my return, and chose the cheapest and most 
direct of all — that by way of Rouen, Dieppe, New-Haven 
and the Brighton Railroad — which is 32 miles shorter than 
the Calais route, but involves four times as long a watei 
passage, and so is spun out to more than twice the length 
of the other. We left Paris at 8 yesterday morning ; 
halted at the fine old town of Rouen before noon ; were in 
Dieppe at 2£ p. m.; but there we waited for a boat till after 
6 ; then were eight hours crossing the Channel ; had to 
wait at New-Haven till after 6 this morning before the 
Custom-House scrutiny of our baggage was begun ; so that 
only a few were enabled to take the first train thence for 
London at a quarter to 7. I was not among the lucky 
ones, but had to hold on for the second train at a quarter 
past 8, and so did not reach this city till after 10, or 
twenty-six hours from Paris, though, with a little enter- 
prise and a decent boat on the Channel, the trip could 
easily be made in 14 hours — four for the French side, six 
for the Channel, two for the English side and two for 
Custom-House delay and leeway of all kinds. If Commo- 
dore Vanderbilt or Mr. Newton would only take compas- 
sion on the ignorance and barbarism prevailing throughout 



274 GLANCES AT EUROPE. 

Europe in the matter of steamboat-building, and establish 
a branch of his business on this side of the Atlantic, he 
would do the cause of Human Progress a service, and 
signally contribute to the diminution of the sum of mortal 
misery. 

The night was mild and fair ; the wind light ; the sea 
consequently smooth ; and I suffered less, and repented my 
choice of a route less, than I had expected to ; but consider 
the facts : Here was the most direct route by Railroad and 
Steamboat between the two great Capitals of Europe — a 
route constantly traveled by multitudes from all parts of 
world — yet the only boats provided for the liquid portion 
of the way are two little black, cobbling concerns, each 
perhaps seventy feet long by fifteen wide, with no deck 
above the water line, and not a single berth for even a 
lady passenger,- though making one passage each night. 
Who could suppose that two tolerably civilized nations 
would endure this in the middle of 1851 ? 

We were nearly two hundred passengers, and the boat 
just about decently held us, but had not sitting-room for 
all, above and under the deck. But as about half, being 
"second class," had no right to enter the main cabin, those 
who had that right were enabled to sit and yawn, and trv 
to cheat themselves into the notion that they would coax 
sleep to their aid after a while. Occasionally, one or two 
having left for a turn on deck, some drowsy mortal would 
stretch himself on a settee at full length, but the remonstran- 
ces of others needing seats would soon compel him to 
resume a half-upright posture. And so the passage wore 
away, and between 2 and 3 this morning we reached 
New-Haven (a petty sea-port at the mouth of the little 
river Ouse), where we were permitted promptly to land, 
minus our baggage, and repair to a convenient inn. Here 
I, with several others, invested two British shillings in a 
chance to sleep, but the venture (at least in my case) 
proved a losing one. It was daylight when we went to 



PARIS TO LONDON. 275 

bed, and the incessant tramping, ringing of bells, &c, kept 
us for the most part awake and called us up at a very 
early hour, to fidget uselessly for the recovery of our 
baggage, and lose the early train at last. 

The country stretching north-westward from Paris to 
Dieppe (125 miles) is less thoroughly cultivated than any 
other I have seen in Europe out of Italy. I saw more 
weedy and thin Rye and ragged Wheat than I had noted 
elsewhere. Grass is the chief staple, after leaving the 
garden-covered vicinity of Paris, though Wheat, Rye and 
Oats are extensively cultivated. The Root crops promise 
poorly. Indian Corn is hardly seen, though the Vine is 
considerably grown. This region is generally well wooded, 
but in a straggling, accidental way, which has the effect 
neither of Lombard nicety of plantation, nor of the natural 
luxuriance of genuine forests. Fruit is not abundant. 
Irrigation is considerably practiced. The dwellings of the 
majority have an antiquated, ruinous, tumble-down aspect, 
such as I have observed nowhere else this side of Lower 
Italy. On the whole, I doubt whether this portion of 
France has improved much within the last fifty years. 

Rouen, the capital of ancient Normandy, is the fifth city 
of France, only Paris, Lyons, Marseilles and Bordeaux 
having more inhabitants. Here the Railroad for Havre 
diverges from that to Dieppe, which we adhered to. Rouen 
is interesting for its antiquities, including several venerable 
and richly adorned Churches which I had no time to visit. 
Dieppe, on the Channel, has a small harbor, completely 
landlocked, and 17,000 inhabitants. It is considerably 
resorted to for sea-bathing, but seems to have very little 
trade. I judge that the Railroads now being extended 
through France, are likely to arrest the growth or hasten 
the decline of most of the smaller cities and {owns by 
facilitating and cheapening access to the capital, where 
nearly every Frenchman would live if he could, and where 
the genius of people and government (no matter under 



276 GLANCES AT EUROPE. 

what constitution) conspires to concentrate all the intel- 
lectual and artistic life of the Nation. 

The Railroad from New-Haven to London passes 
through no considerable town, though not far from Brighton 
and Tunbridge. The country is undulating and beautiful, 
mainly devoted to Grass, Wheat and Wood, and in the 
very highest condition. It is now toward the end of 
Haying, and the Wheat is just beginning to ripen, though 
that of Central Italy was mainly harvested a full month 
ago. But the English Wheat covers the ground thickly 
and evenly, and promises a large average crop, especially 
if the present fine weather should continue through the 
next two weeks. 

Noble herds of Cattle and flocks of Sheep overspread the 
spacious grounds devoted to Pasturage, especially near the 
Channel, where most of the land is in Grass. English 
Agriculture has a thorough and cleanly aspect which I 
have rarely observed elsewhere. Belgium is as careful 
and as productive, but its alternations of tillage or grass 
with woodland are by no means so frequent nor so pictu- 
resque as I see here. The sturdy, hospitable trees of an 
English park or lawn are not rivaled, so far as I have seen, 
on the Continent. I have rarely seen a reach of country 
better disposed for effect than that from a point ten miles 
this side of New-Haven to within some ten miles of this 
city, where Market Gardening supplants regular Farming. 
Women work in the fields at this season in England, but 
not more than one woman to five men were visible in 
the hay-fields we passed this morning — it may have been 
otherwise in the afternoon. As to beggars, none were 
visible, begging being disallowed. 

Crossing the Channel shifts the boot very decidedly with 
respect to language. Those who were groping in the 
dark a few hours ago are now in the brightest sunshine, 
while the oracles of yesterday are the meekest disciples 
to-day. I rode from New-Haven to London in the same 



LONDON AT MIDNIGHT. 277 

car with three Frenchmen and two Frenchwomen, coming 
up to the Exhibition, with a scant half-allowance of 
English among them ; and their efforts to understand the 
signs, &c, were interesting. " London Stoat," displayed 
in three-foot letters across the front of a drinking-house, 
arrested their attention: " Stoot ? Stoot ?" queried one of 
them ; but the rest were as much in the dark as he, and 1 
was as deficient in French as they in English. The 
bofogged one pulled out his dictionary and read over and 
over 4 all the French synonyms of " Stout," but this only 
increased his perplexity. "Stout" signified "robust," 
"hearty," "vigorous," "resolute," &c, but what then 
could " London Stout " be ? He closed his book at length 
in despair and resumed his observations. 

LONDON AT MIDNIGHT. 

London is given to late hours. At 6 a. m. though the 
sun has long been up, there are few stirring in the principal 
streets ; occasionally you meet a cab hurrying with some 
passenger to take an early train ; but few shutters are 
down at 7, and scarcely an omnibus is to be seen till after 
8. The aristocratic dinner hour is 8 p. m. though I trust 
few are so unmerciful to themselves as to postpone their 
chief meal to that late hour when they have no company. 
The morning to sleep, the afternoon to business and the 
evening to enjoyment, seems the usual routine with the 
favored classes. 

Walking home from a soiree at the West-end through 
Regent-street, Haymarket and the Strand once at midnight, 
I was struck, though accustomed to all manner of late 
hours in New- York, with the relative activity and wide- 
awake aspect of London at that hour. It seemed the 
High Change of revelry and pleasure-seeking. The 
taverns, the clubs and drinking-shops betrayed no symptoms 
of drowsiness ; the theatres were barely beginning to emit 

13 



278 GLANCES AT EUROPE. 

their jaded multitudes ; the cabs and private carriages 
were more plentiful than by day, and were briskly wheeling 
hundreds from party to party ; even the omnibuses rattled 
down the wide streets as freshly and almost as numerously 
as at midday. The policemen were alert on nearly every 
corner ; sharpers and suspicious characters stepped nimbly 
about the cross-streets in quest of prey, and innumerable 
wrecks "of Womanhood, God pity them ! shed a deeper 
darkness over the shaded and dusky lanes and byways 
whence they momently emerged to salute the passer-by. 
Beneath the shelter of night, Misery stole forth from its 
squalid lair, no longer awed by the Police, to beseech the 
compassion of the stranger and pour its tale of woe and 
suffering into the rarely willing ear. Serene and silvery 
in the clear night-air rose the nearly full moon over 
Southwark, shedding a soft and mellow light on pillar and 
edifice, column and spire, and enduing the placid bosom 
of the Thames with a tranquil and spiritual beauty. Such 
was one glimpse of London at midnight ; I have not seen 
it so impressive by day. 



XXXVI. 
UNIVERSAL PEACE CONGRESS. 

London, July 25, 1851. 

The fourth Annual Congress of the friends and cham- 
pions of Peace, universal and perpetual, was closed last 
evening, after a harmonious and enthusiastic session of 
three lull days. The number of Delegates in attendance 
was between eight and nine hundred, while the spacious 
area of Exeter Hall, which is said to hold comfortably 
thirty-five hundred persons, was well filled throughout, and 
densely crowded for hours together. Having been held at 
a most favorable time and at the point most accessible to 
the great body of the active friends of Peace, I presume 
the attendance was larger than ever before. 

Two thoughts were suggested to me by the character 
and proceedings of this assemblage — first, that of the emi- 
nently popular and plebeian origin and impulse of all the 
great Reform Movements of our age. Every great public 
assemblage in Europe for any other purpose will be sure to 
number Lords, Dukes, Generals, Princes, among its digni- 
taries; but hone such came near the Peace Congress ; very 
few of them take part in any movement of the kind. In 
the list of Delegates to this Congress, under the head of 
" Profession or Trade," you find " Merchant," " Miller," 
11 Teacher," "Tanner," "Editor," "Author," "Bookseller," 
"Jeweller," &c, very rarely "Gentleman," or "Baronet," 
and never a higher title. I rejoice to say that " Minister" 
or " Clergyman " appears pretty often, but never such a 



280 GLANCES AT EUROPE. 

word as " Bishop " or " Archbishop," though the most 
liberal of the Established Hierarchy, Archbishop Whateley 
of Dublin, sent a brief note expressing sympathy with the 
objects of the meeting. And I think among the clergymen 
present there was hardly one belonging to either of the 
two Churches which in these realms claim a special and 
exclusive patent from Heaven for the dispensation of 
Religious Truth. 

The other thought suggested by this mighty gathering 
concerns the character and efficacy of the organizations 
and sects in which Christianity is presumed to be em- 
bodied. Let a Convention be called of the Friends of 
Peace, of Temperance, of Personal Liberty, of the Sacred- 
ness of Human Life, or any other tangible and positive 
idea, and many hundreds will come together from distant 
nations, speaking diverse languages, and holding antagonist 
opinions on other important subjects, and will for days dis- 
cuss and deliberate in perfect harmony, unite in appropri- 
ate and forcible declarations of their common sentiments 
and in the adoption of measures calculated to ensure their 
triumph. But let a general Convention of the followers of 
Jesus Christ be called, with a view to the speedy Christian- 
ization of the world, and either three-fourths would keep 
away or the whole time of the meeting be wasted in an 
acrimonious quarrel as to the meaning of Christianity or 
the wording of the Shibboleth whereby those who were 
should be distinguished from those who were not entitled 
to bear the Christian name. 

This contrast implies a great wrong somewhere, and for 
which somebody must be responsible. I merely suggest it 
for general consideration, and pass on. 

Not fully sympathising with the Peace Movement in the 
actual condition of Europe, I was not a Delegate, and did 
not attend the first two days' deliberations. I see not how 
any one who does not hope to live and thrive by injustice, 
oppression and murder, can be otherwise than ardently 



UNIVERSAL PEACE CONGRESS. 281 

favorable to Universal Peace. But, suppose there is a 
portion of the human family who won't have Peace, nor let 
others have it, what then ? If you say, " Let us have it as 
soon as we can," I respond with all my heart. I would 
tolerate War, even against pirates or murderers, no longer 
than is absolutely necessary to inspire them with a love of 
Peace, or put them where they can no longer invade the 
peace of others. But so long as Tyrannies and Aristocra- 
cies shall say — as they now practically do say all over 
Europe, " Yes, we too are for Peace, but it must be Peace 
with absolute submission to our good pleasure — Peace 
with two-thirds of the fruits of Human Labor devoted to 
the pampering of our luxurious appetites, the maintenance 
of our pomp, the indulgence of our unbounded desires — it 
must be a Peace which leaves the Millions in darkness, in 
hopeless degradation, the slaves of superstition and the 
helpless victims of our lusts." I answer, "No, Sirs! on 
your conditions no Peace is possible, but everlasting War 
rather, until your unjust pretensions are abandoned or 
until your power of enforcing them is destroyed." I have 
felt a painful apprehension that the prevalence of the Peace 
Movement, confined as it is to the Liberal party, and act- 
ing on a state of things which secures almost unbounded 
power to the Despots, is calculated to break the spirit of 
down-trodden nations, and, by thus postponing the inevita- 
ble struggle, protract to an indefinite period the advent of 
that Reign of Universal Justice which alone can usher in 
the glorious era of Universal Peace. And, had I been a 
Delegate to this Universal Peace Congress, I should per- 
haps have marred its harmony and its happiness by asking 
it to consider and vote upon some such proposition as this: 



" Resolved, That in commending to all men everywhere the duty of seeking 
and preserving Peace, we bear in mind the Apostle's injunction, 'First pure, 
then peaceable,' and do not deny but affirm the right of a Nation wantontly 
invaded by a foreign army, or intolerably oppressed by its own rulers, to resist 
f orce by force." 



282 GLANCES AT EUROPE. 

I rejoice in being able to say that the general tendency 
of the speeches was towards universal Emancipation, 
mental and physical. I doubt whether an English audience 
composed in so large proportion of the conventionally 
" respectable classes " ever listened to so much downright 
Democracy before. The French speakers, the French 
writers, were full of it, and the great event, at least of the 
last day's session, was the entrance of a body of fifteen 
French workmen, delegates to the World's Exhibition of 
the " Working Associations" of Paris, who came in a body 
to pledge their hearts and hands to the cause of Universal 
Peace, and to assure the Congress that the Laborers, the 
Republicans, of France, were eminently pacific in their 
ideas and purposes, and that the preservation of the Re- 
public, which is the immediate object of their exertions, is 
valued not more in its relation to their personal rights and 
aspirations than as a step toward the formation of a Eu- 
ropean confederacy of emancipated Nations, and thus as 
the corner-stone of the temple of Universal Peace. The 
Speeches of these Workmen just from their benches in the 
work-shops of Paris were every way admirable, and were 
received with the heartiest enthusiasm. They breathed 
the true spirit not of Peace only but of hearty cooperation 
in every work calculated to promote the moral and social 
well-being of mankind. The wretched cant which implies 
natural enmity between France and England, or any other 
two nations, was emphatically repudiated by them, and 
every variety of forcible expression given to the earnest 
desire of the Laboring Classes of France that Peace, 
Freedom and Brotherhood shall prevail, not in their own 
country merely, but throughout the world. 

Mr. Cobden had made his great speech on the preceding 
day, wherein the grievous expensiveness and hideous im- 
morality of Standing Armies were vividly portrayed. He 
did not hesitate to speak straight out on the subject of the 
demoralizing influence of Armies on the People among 



UNIVERSAL PEACE CONGRESS. 283 

whom they were quartered or posted, and the broad track 
of moral desolation which an armed force everywhere 
leaves behind it. If the facts in this connection were but 
generally known, I think there would soon be a loud call 
from Christians, Moralists and Philanthropists for the entire 
disbandment and dispersion of every Standing Army. — 
Emile Girardin, Editor of " La Presse" spoke more es- 
pecially of the enormous expense of Armies and the ruinous 
taxation they render necessary. — Mr. Cobden spoke again 
yesterday, in more immediate denunciation of the enormous 
Standing Army maintained by Austria, not merely through- 
out its own but in other countries also, the Loans which 
its Government is constantly contracting, and the gulf of 
bankruptcy to which it is rapidly hurrying. He said there 
were intimations that another Austrian Loan would be 
attempted in London, and if it should be he should urge 
the call of a public meeting to expose the past knaveries 
of Austria in dealing with her creditors, and to hold up to 
public reprobation whoever should touch the Loan. — Mr. 
Samuel Gurney, the Quaker banker, also spoke in repre- 
hension of Loans for War purposes and all who subscribe 
to or encourage them. — Edward Miall (Editor of The 
Non- Conformist), also spoke forcibly against War Loans. 

M. Cormenin, an eminent French Statesman and writer, 
read a witty, piquant essay in reprehension of War and all 
other contrivances for shortening human life, which, being 
given first in French and then substantially in English, 
elicited very hearty plaudits. 

There were many more speakers, including Mr. Hindley, 
British M. P., M. Bouret, French Chamber of Deputies, 
Elihu Burritt, M. Avignon, an Italian banker, J. S. Buck- 
ingham, Dr. Schertzer of Vienna, and Joseph Sturge, 
who moved that a similar convention be held next year, at 
a time' and place to be afterward agreed on, which was 
unanimously carried. It was announced that Mr. Geo. 
Hatfield of Manchester had suggested and agreed to bcai 



284 GLANCES AT EUROPE. 

the expense of fifteen Silver Medals to be presented, in 
behalf of the Congress, to the representatives of the French 
Workmen's Association for their attendance and sympathy. 
— Sir David Brewster, being warmly thanked for his 
services as Chairman, responded in a few excellent remarks, 
urging each person present to instill the principles of Peace 
into the hearts of the children who are or may be commit- 
ted to his or her guidance. He remarked that he had not 
once been called upon to exercise authority or repress 
commotion during the whole period of the Congress, — a 
fact proving that the principles of Peace had already taken 
root in the breasts of the Members ; and there was not, I 
believe, a single proposition submitted to the Congress on 
which its vote was not substantially unanimous. The 
following are the Resolutions adopted : 

The Congress of the friends of Universal Peace, assembled in London July 
22, 23 and 24, 1851, considering that recourse to arms for the settlement of 
international disputes, is a custom condemned alike by Religion, Morality, 
Reason, and Humanity, and believing that it is useful and necessary frequently 
to direct the attention both of Governments and Peoples to the evils of the 
War system, and the desirableness and practicability of maintaining Perma- 
nent International Peace, resolves : 

1. That it is the special and solemn duty of all Ministers of Religion, In- 
structors of Youth, and Conductors of the Public Press, to employ their great 
influence in the diffusion of pacific principles and sentiments, and in eradicat- 
ing from the minds of men those hereditary animosities, and political and 
commercial jealousies, which have been so often the cause of disastrous Wars. 

2. That as an appeal to the sword can settle no question, on any principle 
of equity and right, it is the duty of Governments to refer to the decision of 
competent and impartial Arbitrators such differences arising between them as 
cannot be otherwise amicably adjusted. 

3. That the Standing Armaments, with which the Governments of Europe 
menace each other, amid professions of mutual friendship and confidence, being 
a prolific source of social immorality, financial embarrassment, and national 
suffering, while they excite constant disquietude and irritation among the na- 
tions, this Congress would earnestly urge upon the Governments the imperative 
necessity of entering upon a system of International Disarmament. 

4. This Congress, regarding the system of negotiating Loans for the prose- 
cution of War, or the maintenance of warlike armaments, as immoral in prin-. 
ciple and disastrous in operation, renews ita emphatic condemnation of all such 
Loans. 



UNIVERSAL PEACE CONGRESS. 285 

5. This Congress, believing that the intervention, by threatened or actual 
violence, of one country in the international politics of another, is a frequent 
cause of bitter and desolating wars, maintains that the right of every State to 
regulate its own affairs should be held absolute and inviolate. 

6. This Congress recommends all the friends of Peace to prepare public 
opinion, in their respective countries, with a view to the formation of an au- 
thoritative Code of International Law. 

7. This Congress expresses its strong abhorrence of the system of aggression 
and violence practiced by so-called civilized nations upon aboriginal and feeble 
tribes, as leading to incessant and exterminating wars, eminently unfavorable 
to the true progress of religion, civilization and commerce. 

8. This Congress, convinced that whatever brings the nations of the earth 
together in intimate and friendly intercourse must tend to the establishment of 
Peace, by removing misapprehensions and prejudices, and inspiring mutual res- 
pect, hails, with unqualified satisfaction, the Exhibition of the Industry of all 
Nations, as eminently calculated to promote that end. 

9-. That the members of Peace Societies, in all Constitutional Countries, be 
recommended to use their influence to return to their respective Parliaments, v 
representatives who are friends of Peace, and who will be prepared to support, 
by their votes, measures for the diminution of the number of men employed in, 
and the amount of money expended for, War purposes. 

American 3Iembers of the Congress. — Nathaniel Adams, Cornwall, Conn. 
Rev. Robert Band, New- York ; Geo. M. Borrows, Friburg, Maine ; M. B. 
Bateman, Columbus, Ohio ; Rev. George Beckwith, Boston, Mass. ; W. Wells 
Brown, do ; Elihu Burritt, Worcester, Mass. ; William A. Burt, Washington 

D. C. ; Dr. Thomas Chadbourne, Portsmouth, N. H. ; Rev. J. W. Chickering^ 
Portland, Me. ; Wm. Darlington, Westchester, Pa. ; Rev. P. B. Day, New- 
Haven ; Rev. Amos Dresser, Oberlin, Ohio ; Rev. D. C. Eddy, Lowell, Mass. ; 
Rev. Romeo Elton, Providence, R. I. ; A. R. Forsyth, Indiana ; Rev. Aaron 
Foster, Massachusetts ; William B. Fox, do ; Rev. H. H. Garnet, Geneva, 
N. Y. ; David Gould, Sharon, Conn. ; Rev. Josiah Henson, Canada West ; 

E. Jackson, Jr., Boston, Mass. ; Wm. Jackson, Newton, do; Rev. P. M. 
McDowell, New-Brunswick ; Rev. Geo. Maxwell, Ohio ; Rev. H. A. Mills', 
Lowell, Mass. ; Rev. A. A. Miner, Boston, Mass. ; Dr. Henry S. Patterson^ 
Frank B. Palmer, Dr. William Pettit, Philadelphia, Pa. ; Thomas Pierce', 
Illinois ; Mose3 Pond, Boston, Mass. ; J T. Sheoffe, Whitesboro', N. Y. ; 
Isaac Skervan, Buffalo, N. Y. ; Rev. Zadock Thompson, Burlington, Vt. ; 
Rev. John E. Tyler, Windham, Conn. ; Ichabod Washbourne, Worcester, 
Mass. ; Rev. James C White, Ohio ; Chas. H. De Wolfe, Oldtown, Me. 



XXXVJI. 
AMERICA AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 

London, Tuesday, July 26, 1851. 

If I return this once more and for the last time to the 
subject of American contributions to the great Exposition, 
k shall not be said with truth that my impulse is a feeling 
of soreness and chagrin. Within the last few days, a very 
decided and gratifying change has taken place in the cur- 
rent of opinion here with regard to American invention 
and its results. One cause of this was the late formal trial 
of American (with other foreign) Plows, in the presence 
of the Agricultural Jury ; which 'rial, though partial and 
hurried, was followed by immediate orders for an American 
Plow then tested (Starbuck's) from Englishmen, Belgians 
and Frenchmen, including several Agricultural Societies. 
If a hundred of those Plows were here, they might be sold 
at once ; in their absence, the full price has been paid 
down for some twenty or thirty, to be shipped at New- 
York, and be thenceforth at the risk and cost of the buyers. 
And these orders have just commenced. The London 
journals which had reporters present (some of which 
journals ridiculed our Farming Implements expressly a few 
weeks ago), now grudgingly admit that the American 
Plows did their work with less draft than was required by 
their European rivals, but add that they did not do it so 
well. Such was not the judgment of other witnesses of 
the trial, as the purchases, among other things, attest. 

A still more signal triumph to American ingenuity was' 



AMERICA AT THE WORLD S FAIR. 287 

accorded on Thursday. Mr. Mechi, formerly a London 
merchant, having acquired a competence by trade, retired 
some years since to a farm in Essex, about forty miles off, 
where he is vigorously prosecuting a system of High 
Farming, employing the most effective implements and 
agencies of all kinds. He annually has a gathering of dis- 
tinguished farmers and others to inspect'his estate and see 
how his "book farming" gets on. This festival occurred 
day before yesterday — a sour, dark, drenching day — not- 
withstanding which, nearly two hundred persons were 
present. Among others, several machines for cutting 
Grain were exhibited and tested, including two (Hussey's 
and McCormick's) from America, and an English one 
which was declared on all hands a mere imitation of Hus- 
sey's. Neither the original nor the copy, however, appear 
to have operated to the satisfaction of the assembly, 
perhaps owing to the badness of the weather and its effects 
on the draggled, unripe grain. With McCormick's a very 
different result was obtained. This machine is so well 
known in our Wheat-growing districts that I need only 
remark that it is the same lately ridiculed by one of the 
great London journals as " a cross between an Astley's 
chariot, a treadmill and a flying machine," and its uncouth 
appearance has been a standing butt for the London 
reporters at the Exhibition. It was the ready exemplar of 
American distortion and absurdity in the domain of Art. 
[t came into the field at Mechi's, therefore, to confront a 
tribunal (not the official but the popular) already prepared 
for its condemnation. Before it stood John Bull, burly, 
dogged and determined not to be humbugged — his judgment 
made up and his sentence ready to be recorded. Nothing- 
disconcerted, the brown, rough, homespun Yankee in 
charge jumped on the box, starting the team at a smart 
walk, setting the blades of the machine in lively operation, 
and commenced raking off the grain in sheaf-piles ready 
for binding, — cutting a breadth of nine or ten feet cleanly 



288 GLANCES AT EUKOPE. 

and carefully as fast as a span of horses could comfort 
ably step. There was a moment, and but a moment of 
suspense; human prejudice could hold out no longer; 
and burst after burst of involuntary cheers from the 
whole crowd proclaimed the triumph of the Yankee 
"treadmill." That triumph has since been the leading 
topic in all agricultural circles. The Times report speaks 
of it as beyond doubt, as placing the harvest absolutely 
under the farmer's control, and as ensuring a complete 
and most auspicious revolution in the harvesting operations 
of this country. I would gladly give the whole account, 
which, grudgingly towards the inventor, but unqualifiedly 
as to the machine, speaks of the latter as "securing to 
English farming protection against climate and an eco- 
nomy of labor which must prove ot incalculable advantage." 
Pretty well for " a cross between an Astley's chariot, a 
flying machine and a tread-mill." 

Mr. McCormick, I hear, is probably now on his way 
hither from the United States, and will be rather astonished 
on landing to find himself a lion. Half a dozen makers and 
sellers of Agricultural implements, are already on the 
watch for him, and if he makes his bargain wisely, he is 
morally sure of a fortune from England alone. His 
machine and its operator were the center of an eager 
circle to-day, and if five hundred of the former were to be 
had here, they would all be bought within a month. There 
is to be another public trial, merely to place beyond doubt 
its capacity to cut dry and ripe grain as well as green and 
wet ; but those who have seen it work in the States will 
not care much for that.* 

Mr. Hobbs, of the American Bank Lock Company, has 
had a recent trial of the Chubb Lock, so long deemed 
invincible here, and consumed twenty-four minutes and a 

* This trial took place at Mechi's some three weeks later, and resulted in 
a complete triumph for the reaper, which thereupon received an award (already 
accorded it by the Council of Chairmen, subject to revision upon the result of 
this trial), of a first-class or Great-1VT«<U' 



AMERICA AT THE WORLD S FAIR. 289 

half in picking it, under the supervision of judges of 
unquestionable ability and impartiality. He then re-locked 
it without disturbing the " Detector," and left it as when 
it was set before him. He has now to try his skill on the 
" Bramah " lock under the challenge for £200 : and, 
should he be able to open it, he says he shall there rest the 
case.* He has been sent for by the Governor of the 
Bank of England, and will respond to the invitation. His 
operations have of course excited some feeling among 
those whose interests were affected by them ; yet it is 
manifestly proper and important, if the locks relied on by 
banks and other depositories of treasure here are not secure 
against burglary, that the fact should be known. Unless 
I err as to his success at the forthcoming trial with the 
Bramah lock, British locksmiths must commence at once 
to learn their business over again under Yankee tuition. 

I might give other facts in support of my judgment that 
our Country has not been and will not be disgraced by her 
share in this Exhibition, but I forbear. Had we declined 
altogether the invitation to participate in this show, we 
certainly would have been discredited in the world's opinion, 
however unjustly ; had we attempted to rival the costly 
tissues, dainty carvings, rich mosaics, and innumerable 
gewgaws of Europe, we should have shown equal bad 
taste and unsound judgment, and would have deservedly 
been laughed at. Our real error consists, not in neglecting 
to send articles to rival the rich fabrics and wares of this 
Continent, but in sending too few of those homely but 
most important products in which we unquestionably lead 
the world. We have a good many such here now, but we 
should have had many more. One such plain, odd-looking 
concern as McCormick's Reaper, though it makes no figure 
in the eyes of mere sight-seers in comparison with an inlaid 
Table or a case of Paris Bonnets, is of more practical 
account than a Crystal Palace full of those, and so wi!! 

* He has since done so, to the perfect satisfaction of the judges. 



290 GLANCES AT EUROPE. 

ultimately be regarded. Looking to-day at Mitchell's 
admirable new Map of the United States and their Terri- 
tories, as now existing, which worthily fills an honorable 
place in the Exhibition, with several but too few others of 
the same class, I could not but regret that a set of Har- 
pers' Common School Libraries, with a brief account of 
the origin and progress of our School Library system, had 
not been contributed ; and I wish I had myself spent fifty 
dollars if necessary to place in the Exhibition a good 
collection of American School Books. If there shall ever 
be another World's Exhibition, I bespeak a conspicuous 
place in it for a model American country School-House, 
with its Library, Globes, Maps, Black-Board, Class Books, 
&c, and a succinct account of our Common School system, 
printed in the five or six principal languages of Europe for 
gratuitous distribution to all who may apply for it. With 
this got up as it should be, I would not mind admitting that 
in Porcelain and Laces, Ormolu and Trinkets, Europe is 
yet several years ahead of us. 

Mr. J. S. Gwynne of our State, whose " Balanced 
Centrifugal Pump " made a sensation and obtained a Gold 
Medal at our Institute Fair last October, is here with it, 
and proposes a public trial of its qualities in competition 
with the rival English pumps of Appold and Bessimer for 
$1,000, to be paid by the loser to the Mechanics' Society. 
Mr. Gwynne claims that these English Pumps (which have 
been among the chief attractions of the department of 
British Machinery) are palpable plagiarisms from his 
invention, and not well done at that. He, of course, does 
not claim the idea of a Centrifugal Pump as his own, for it 
is much older than any of them,' but he does claim that 
adaptation of the idea which has rendered it effective and 
valuable. I am reliably informed that he has just sold his 
Scotch patent only for the comfortable sum of £10,000 
sterling, or nearly $50,000 ; and this is but one of several 
inventions for which he has found a ready market here 



AMERICA AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 291 

at liberal prices. I cite his case (for he is one of seve- 
ral Americans who have recently sold their European 
patents here at high figures) as a final answer to those who 
croak that our country is disgraced, and regret that any 
American ever came near the Exhibition. Had these 
discerning and patriotic gentlemen been interested in these 
patents, they might have taken a different view of the 
matter. Even my New- York friend, whose toadyism in 
exhibiting a capital pair of Oars inscribed " A present for 
the Prince of Wales," I have already characterized as it 
deserves, yesterday informed me that he had sold $15,000 
worth of Oars here since the Fair opened. I am sure I 
rejoice in his good fortune, and hope it may insure the 
improvement of his taste also. 

There are many articles in the American department of 
which I would gladly speak, that have attracted no public 
notice. Since I left for the Continent, Mrs. A. Nicholson, 
formerly of our city, has sent in a Table-Cover worked in 
Berlin Wool from the centre outward so as to form a 
perfect circle, or succession of circles, from centre to 
circumference, w r ith a great variety of brilliant colors 
imperceptibly shading into each other. This having been 
made entirely by hand, with no implement but a common 
cut nail, the process is of course too slow to be valuable ; 
but the result attained may very probably afford useful 
hints and suggestions to inventors of weaving machinery. 
— I think the display of Flint Glass by the Brooklyn Com- 
pany is equal in purity and fineness to any other plain 
Glass in the Exhibition, and only regret that the quantity 
sent had not been larger. I regret far more that the 
" Hillotype," for giving sun-pictures with the colors of life, 
has not yet made its appearance here, while the " Caloric 
Engine " (using compressed and heated air instead of 
water for the generation of power), was not ready in season 
to justify a decision on its merits by the Jury of its Class ; 
and so with other recent American inventions of which 



292 GLANCES AT EUROPE. 

high hopes are entertained. We ought to have had here 
a show merely of Inventions, Machines and Implements 
exceeding the entire contents of the American Department 
— ought to have had, apart from any question of National 
credit, if only because the inventors' interests would have 
been subserved thereby — and we should have had much 
more than we actually have, had the state of the British 
Patent-Laws been less outrageous than it is. A patent 
here costs ten times as much as in the United States, and 
is worth little when you have it — that is, it is not even an 
opinion that the patentee has really invented anything, 
but merely an evidence that he claimed to have done so at 
such a date, and a permission to prove that he actually 
did, if he can. In other words : a patent gives a permis- 
sion and an opportunity to contend legally for your rights ; 
and if the holder is known to have money enough, it 
generally suffices ; if not, he can and will be not only 
plundered with impunity, but defied and laughed at. A 
bill radically revising the British Patent-Laws is now on 
its way through Parliament, but in its absence many 
American inventors refused to expose themselves to a loss 
of their inventions by exhibiting them at the Fair ; and 
who can blame them ? 

The succession of fetes to be given by the Municipality 
of Paris to the Royal Commissioners, Jurors, &c, in honor 
of the World's Exhibition, opens this week, and will be 
brilliant and gratifying as no other city but Paris could 
make it. The number invited is over One Thousand, and 
all are taken from the British shore in French National 
Vessels, and thenceforth will be the guests of their inviters 
until they shall again be landed at an English port, paying 
nothing themselves for travel, entertainment, balls, &c, &c. 
This is certainly handsome, and I acknowledge the 
courtesy, though I shall not accept the invitation. I leave 
lor Scotland and Ireland on Monday. 



XXXVIII. 
ENGLAND, CENTRAL AND NORTHERN. 

Newcastle, Eng., Tuesday, July 29, 1851. 

I came up through the heart of England by railroad yes- 
terday from London by Rugby, Leicester, Derby, Chester- 
field, near Sheffield and Leeds,' through York, near Durham, 
to this place, where Coal is found in proverbial abundance, 
as its black canopy of smoke might testify. Newcastle lies 
at the head of navigation on the Tyne, about thirty miles 
inland from the E. N. E. coast of England, three hundred 
miles from London, and is an ancient town, mainly built of 
brick, exhibiting considerable manufacturing and commer- 
cial activity. 

The British Railroads are better built, more substantial 
and costly than ours, but their management does not equal 
my anticipations. They make no such time as is current- 
ly reported on our side, and are by no means reliable for 
punctuality. The single Express Train daily from London 
to Edinburgh professes to make the distance (428 miles) in 
about twelve hours, which is less than 36 miles per hour, 
with the best of double tracks, through a remarkably level 
country, everything put out of its way, and no more stops 
than its own necessities of wood and water require. We 
should easily beat this in America with anything like equal 
facilities, and without charging the British price — £4 7s. 
(or over 621) for a distance not equal to the length of the 
Erie Railroad, almost wholly through a populous and busy 
region, where Coal is most abundant and very cheap. 



294 GLANCES AT EUROPE. 

Our train (the Mail) started from London at 10 J A. M. 
and should have been here at 1 1 P. M. or in a little less 
than 25 miles per hour. But the running throughout the 
country is now bewitched with Excursion Trains and 
throngs of passengers flocking on low-priced Excursion re- 
turn tickets to see the Great Exhibition, which is quite as 
it should be, but the consequent delay and derangement of 
the regular trains is as it should not be. The Companies 
have no moral right to fish up a quantity of irregular and 
temporary business to the violation of their promises and 
the serious disappointment of their regular customers. As 
things are managed, we left London with a train of twenty- 
five cars, half of them filled with Excursion passengers for 
whom a separate engine should have been, but was not, 
provided ; so that we were behind time from the first and 
arrived here at 1 this morning instead of 11 last night. 

The spirit of accommodation is not strikingly evinced 
on British Railroads. The train halts at a place to which 
you are a stranger, and you perhaps hear its name called 
out for the benefit of the passengers who are to stop there ; 
but whether the halt is to last half a minute, five minutes, 
or ten, you must find out as you can. The French Rail- 
roads are better in this respect, and the American cannot 
be worse, though the fault is not unknown there. A penny 
programme for each train, to be sold at the chief stations 
on each important, route, stating not merely at what place 
but exactly how long each halt of that particular train 
would be made, is one of the yet unsatisfied wants of Rail- 
road travelers. Our " Path-finders " and ' : Railway Guides " 
undertake to tell so much that plain people are confused 
and often misled by them, and are unable to pick out the 
little information they actually need from the wilderness of 
figures and facts set before them. Let us have Guides so 
simple that no guide is needed to explain them. 

There is much sameness in English rural scenery. I 
have now traveled nearly a thousand miles in this country 



ENGLAND, CENTRAL AND NORTHERN. 295 

without seeing anything like a mountain and hardly a preci- 
pice except the chalky cliffs of the sea shore. Nearly every 
acre I have seen is susceptible of cultivation, and of course 
either cultivated, built upon, or devoted to wood. A few 
steep banks of streams or ravines, almost uniformly wood- 
ed, and some small marshes, mainly on the sea-coast, are 
all the exceptions I remember to the general capacity for 
cultivation. Usually, the aspect of the country is pleasant 
— beautiful, if you choose — but nowise calculated to excite 
wonder or evoke enthusiasm. The abundance of evergreen 
hedges is its most striking characteristic. I judge that two- 
thirds of England is in Grass (meadow or pasture), very 
green and thrifty, and dotted with noble herds of cattle and 
flocks of sheep. They are anxious to finish Hay-making 
throughout the region we traversed yesterday ; but as there 
has been scarcely an hour of very bashful sunshine during 
the last six days, more than half of which have been rainy, 
the operation is one rather trying to human patience. Some 
of the cut grass looks as if it were Flax spread out to rot, 
and all of it evinces a want of shelter. This morning is 
almost fair, though hazy, so that the necessity of taking in 
and drying the hay by a fire may be obviated, but a great 
deal of it must be seriously damaged. (P. S. 10 o'clock. — 
It is cloudy and raining again.) 

Wheat covers perhaps an eighth of all Central England, 
is now ripening and generally heavy, but much of it is 
beaten down by the wind and rain, and looks as if a herd 
of buffaloes had been chased through it by a tribe of mount- 
ed Indians. If the weather should be mainly fair hence- 
forth, the crop may be saved, but it must already have 
received material damage, and the process of harvesting it 
must be tedious. Barley is considerably grown, and has 
also been a good deal prostrated. Oats have suffered less, 
being more backward. — Potatoes look vigorous, though 
not yet out of danger from blight or rot. Not a patch of 
Indian Corn is to be seen throughout. Considerable grass- 



296 GLANCES AT EUROPE. 

land has been plowed up for Wheat next season, and some 
Turnips are just visible ; but it is evident that Grass and 
Stock, under the influence of the low prices of Grain pro- 
duced by the repeal of the Corn-laws, are steadily gaining 
upon Tillage, of course throwing tens of thousands of 
Agricultural laborers out of employment, and driving them 
to emigration, to manufactures, or the poor-house. Thus 
the rural population of England is steadily and constantly 
decreasing. 

The best feature of English landscape is formed by its 
Trees. Though rarely relied on for fuel, there is scarcely 
an area of forty acres without them, while single trees, 
copses, more rarely rows, and often petty forests, are 
visible in all quarters. The trees are not the straight, tall, 
trim, short-limbed, shadeless Poplars, &c, of France and 
Italy, but wide-spreading, hospitable Oaks, Yews and other 
sturdy battlers with wind and storm, which have a far more 
genial and satisfactory appearance. And the trees of Eng- 
land have a commercial as well as a less measurable value ; 
for timber of all sorts is in demand in the collieries, manu- 
factories and mines, and bears a high price, the consump- 
tion far exceeding the domestic supply. But for the trees, 
these sullen skies and level grounds would render England 
dreary enough. 

Newcastle is the location of one of those immense struc- 
tures which illustrate the Industrial greatness and pecuniary 
strength of Britain, and illustrate also the meagerness of 
her Railroad dividends. The Tyne is here a furlong wide 
or more, running through a narrow valley or wide ravine 
perhaps 150 feet below the average level of the great plain 
which encloses it, and hardly more than half a mile wide 
at the top. Across this river and gorge is thrown a bridge 
of iron, with abutments and piers of hewn stone, the 
arches of said bridge having a total length of 1,375 feet, 
with 512 feet water-way, while the railway is 112J feet 
above high-water mark, with a fine carriage and foot- 



THE BORDER SCOTLAND. 297 

way underneath it at a hight of 86 feet, and a total hight 
from river-bed to parapet of 132^ feet. The gigantic 
arches have a span of over 124 feet each, and the total cost 
of the work was £304,500, or about $1,500,000. Near 
this is a Central Railway Station (there are two others in 
the place), built entirely, including the roof, of cut stone, 
save a splendid row of glass windows on either side — said 
depot being over 592 feet long, the passengers' department 
being 537 by 183 feet, and the whole costing over $500,- 
000. Here, then, are about $2,000,000 expended on a 
single mile of railroad, in a city of by no means primary 
importance. If any one can see how fair dividends could 
be paid on railroads constructed at such expense, the 
British shareholders generally would be glad to avail them- 
selves of his sagacity. And it is stated that the Law Ex- 
penses of several of the British roads, including procure- 
ment of charter and right of way, have exceeded $2,500,- 
000. Add to this rival lines running near each other, and 
often three where one should suffice, and you have the ex- 
planation of a vast, enormous and ruinous waste of property. 
Let the moral be heeded. 

THE BORDER SCOTLAND. 

Edinburgh, July 29 — Evening. 

From Newcastle to the Tweed (70 miles) the country 
continues level and mainly fertile, but the Grain is far 
more backward than in the vicinity of London, and very 
little of it has been blown down. More Wheat and far 
less Grass are grown here than below York, while Barley, 
Oats and Potatoes cover a good share of the ground, and 
the Turnip is often seen. All look well, but the Potato, 
though late, is especially hearty and thrifty. Shade-trees 
in the cultivated fields are rare ; in fact, wood is altogether 
rarer than at the south, though small forests are generally 
within sight. I should judge fr^m what I see and feel that 



298 GLANCES AT EUROPE. 

shade is seldom wanting here, except as a shield from the 
rain. Desperate attempts at Hay-making engross the 
thoughts and efforts of a good many men and women, 
though the skies are black, rain falls at intervals, and a 
chill, heavy mist makes itself disagreeably familiar, while 
a thin, drifting fog limits the vision to a square mile or so. 
Some of the half-made hay in the meadows looks as though 
it had been standing out to bleach for the last fortnight. 
Even the Grass-land is often ridged so as to shed the water 
quickly, while deep ditches or drains do duty for fences. 
Fruit-trees are rarely seen ; they were scarce from London 
to York, but now have disappeared. Our road runs nearer 
and nearer the North Sea, which at length is close beside 
us on the right, but no town of any importance is visible 
until we cross the Tweed on a long, high, costly stone 
bridge just above Berwick of historic fame, and are in 

SCOTLAND. 

Here the growing crops are much the same as through- 
out the North of England — Wheat, Potatoes, Barley, Oats, 
and Grass — save that the Turnip has become an article 
of primary importance. From some points, hundreds of 
acres of the Swedish and French may be seen, and they 
are rarely or never out of view. They are sown in rows 
or drills, some eighteen inches or two feet apart, so as to 
admit of cultivation by the plow, which is now in progress. 
The most forward of the plants now display a small yellow 
blossom. All are healthy and promising, and are kept 
thoroughly clear of weeds. I infer that they are mainly 
grown for feeding cattle, and this seems a good idea, since 
they can be harvested in defiance of rain and mist, which 
is rather more difficult with Hay. They become more and 
more abundant as we approach this city, and are grown up 
to its very doors. Heavy stone walls laid in mortar and 
copses or little forests of Oak are among the characteristics 



EDINBURGH. 299 

of the rural district around Edinburgh, whereof the culture 
is widely famed for its excellence. The only Scottish town 
of any note we pass is Dunbar, by the sea-side, though 
Dunse, Haddington and Dalkeith lie but a few miles inland 
from our road, with which they are connected by branches. 
We reached this city about 3 P. M. or in five hours from 
Newcastle, 130 miles. 

EDINBURGH. 

I knew this was a city of noble and beautiful structures, 
but the reality surpasses my expectation. The old town 
was mainly built in a deep valley running northward into 
the Firth of Forth, with the Royal Palace of Holyrood in 
its midst, the port of Leith on the Firth a few miles north- 
ward, and the Castle on a commanding crag overlooking 
the old town from the west. The Canonarate and Hisrh- 
street lead up to the esplanade of the Castle from the east, 
but its other sides are precipitous and inaccessible, a deep 
valley skirting it on the north, while the south end of the 
old town fills the other side. The former or more northern 
valley has lor the most part been kept clear oi' buildings, 
the spacious Prince's-street Gardens and the grounds of 
several charitable institutions having had possession of it, 
until they were recently required to surrender a part for 
the Railroads running south to Berwick, &c, and west to 
Glasgow for a General Depot Across this deep valley or 
chasm, northward, rises the eminence on which the new 
town of Edinburgh is constructed, with the deep chasm in 
which runs the rapid mill-stream known as the " Water 
of Leith," separating it from a like, though lower, hill still 
further north and west, on which a few fine buildings and 
very pleasant gardens are located. The new town is thus 
perhaps 150 feet above the old town, a mile and a half long 
by half a mile wide, commanding magnificent views of the 
old town, the port of Leith, the broad, ocean-like Firth of 



300 GLANCES AT EUROPE. 

Forth, and the finely cultivated country stretching south- 
ward ; and, as if these were not enough to secure its salu- 
brity, it has more gardens and public squares than any 
other city of its size in the world. Its streets are broad 
and handsome; its houses built almost wholly of stone, and 
J never saw so many good ones with so few indifferent. If 
[ were to choose from all the world a city wherein to make 
an effort for longevity.. I would select the new town of 
Edinburgh ; but I should prefer to live fewer years where 
there is more sunshine. 

Public Monuments would seem to be the grand passion 
of the Edinburghers. The most conspicuous are those of 
Lord Nelson on Calton Hill (next to ttie Castle, if not be- 
fore it, the most commanding location in the city) and of 
Walter Scott on Prince's-street, nearly opposite the Castle, 
across the glen, in full sight of all who arrive in Edinburgh 
by Railroad, as also from the Castle and its vicinity, as well 
as from the broad and thronged street beside which it is 
located. But there are Monuments also to Pitt, to Lord 
Melville, and some twenty or thirty other deceased notables. 
These are generally located in the higher squares or gardens 
which wisely occupy a large portion of the ground-plot of 
the new town. Public Hospitals and Infirmaries are also 
a prominent feature of the Scottish capital, there being 
several spacious and fine edifices devoted to the healing of 
the sick, most if not all of them founded and endowed by 
private munificence. There are several Bridges across the 
two principal and more on the secondary or cross valleys, 
ravines or gorges which may well attract attention. These 
Bridges are often several hundred feet longr and from thirty 
to eighty feet high, and you look down from their roadway 
upon the red-tiled roofs of large eight or nine-story houses 
beside and below them. Nearly or quite every house in 
Edinburgh is built of stone, which is rather abundant in 
Scotland, and often of a fair, free, easily worked quality. 
Many even of the larger houses, especially in the old town, 



EDINURtiH. 801 

are built of coarse, rough, undressed stone, often of round, 
irregular boulders, made to retain the places assigned thern 
by dint of abundant and excellent mortar. In the better 
buildings, however, the stone is of a finer quality, and 
handsomely cut, though almost entirely of a brown or dark 
gray color. The winding drive to the summit of Calton 
Hill, looking down upon large, tall, castle-like houses of 
varied material and workmanship, with the prospect from 
the summit, are among the most impressive I have seen in 
Europe. 

I was interested this afternoon in looking around from 
one to another of the edifices with which History or the pen 
of the Wizard of the North has rendered us all familiar — 
the Tolbooth, the Parliament House, the Castle, the house 
of John Knox, the principal Churches, &c, &c. I spent 
most time of all in the Palace of Holyrood, which, though 
unwisely located, never gorgeously furnished, and long 
since abandoned of Royalty to dilapidation and decay, still 
wears the stamp of majesty and will be regal even when 
crumbled into ruins. Its tapestries are faded and rotten ; 
its paintings, never brilliant specimens of the art, have 
also felt the tooth of Time; its furniture, never sumptuous, 
would but poorly answer at this day the needs of an 
ordinary family ; its ball-room is now a lumber-room ; its 
royal beds excite premonitions of rheumatism ; its boudoir 
says nought of Beauty but that it passeth away. Yet the 
carefully preserved ivory miniature of the hapless Queen 
of Scots is still radiant with that superlative loveliness 
which seems unearthly and prophetic of coming sorrows ; 
and it were difficult to view without emotion the tapestry 
she worked, the furniture she brought over from France, 
some mementoes of her unwise marriage, the little room in 
which she sat at supper with Rizzio and three or four 
friends when the assassins rushed in through a secret door, 
stabbed her ill-starred favorite, and dragged him bleeding 
through her bed-room into an outer audience chamber, and 

14 



302 GLANCES AT EUROPE. 

there left him to die, his life-blood oozing out from fifty-six 
wounds. The partition still stands which the Queen 
caused to be erected to shut off the scene of this horrible 
tragedy from that larger portion of the reception-room 
which she was obliged still to occupy, therein to greet daily 
those whom public cares and duties constrained her to con- 
fer with and listen to, though Murder had stained ineffa- 
ceably the floor of that regal hall. Alas ! unhappy Queen ! 
— and yet not all unhappy. Other sovereigns have their 
little day of pomp and adulation, then shrivel to dust and 
are forgotten ; but she still lives and reigns wherever 
Beauty finds admirers or Suffering commands sympathy. 
Other Queens innumerable have lived and died, and their 
scepters crumbled to dust even sooner than their clay ; but 
Mary is still Queen of Scots, and so will remain forever. 



XXXIX. 
SCOTLAND. 

The Clyde, Wednesday, July 30, 1851. 

I am leaving Scotland without having seen half enough 
of it. My chief reasons are a determination to run over 
a good part of Ireland and an engagement to leave Europe 
in my favorite ship Baltic next week ; but, besides these, 
this continual prevalence of fog, mist, cloud, drizzle and 
rain diminish my regret that I am unable to visit the 
Highlands. My friends who, having a day's start of me, 
went up the Forth from Edinburgh to Stirling, thence 
visiting Lochs Lomond and Katrine, thence proceeding by 
boat to Glasgow, were unable to see aught of the moun- 
tains but their bases, their heads being shrouded in vapor ; 
and, being landed from a steamboat at the head of Lake 
navigation on Loch Lomond, found five miles of land- 
carriage between them and a comfortable shelter, and only 
vehicles enough to take the women and part of the men ; 
the rest being obliged to make the distance on foot in a 
drenching rain, with night just at hand. Such adventures 
as this, — and they are common in this region, — console me 
for my disappointment in not having been able to see the 
Heather in its mountain home. The Gorse, the Broom, 
the Whins, not to speak of the Scottish Thistle, have been 
often visible by the roadside, and the prevalence of ever- 
greens attests the influence of a colder clime than that of 
England ; indeed, the backwardness of all the crops argues 
a difference of at least a fortnight in climate between 



304 GLANCES AT EUROPE. 

Edinburgh and London. Wheat has hardly filled yet in 
the Scottish Lowlands ; Oats are barely headed ; and the 
Grass is little more than half cut and not half dried into 
Hay ; on the contrary, it now looks as if it must winter 
on the ground or be taken in thoroughly water-soaked. 
Being so much later, the crops are far less blown down 
here than they are in England ; but neither Grass nor 
Grain is generally heavy, while Potatoes and Turnips, 
though backward, looked remarkably vigorous and promis- 
ing. Beautifully farmed is all this Lowland country, well 
fenced, clear of weeds, and evidently in the hands of 
intelligent, industrious, scientific cultivators. Wood is 
quite plentiful, Oak especially, though shade-trees are not 
so frequent in cultivated fields as in England ; but rough, 
rocky, precipitous spots are quite common here, though in 
the Lowlands, and these are wisely devoted to growing 
timber. Belgium is more genial and more fertile, but I 
have rarely seen a tract of country better farmed than that 
stretching westward from Edinburgh to Glasgow (48 miles) 
and thence down the Clyde to Greenock, some 22 miles 
further. The farmers in our Mohawk Valley ought to 
pass through this gloomy, chilly, misty country, and be 
shamed into a better improvement of their rare but misused 
advantages. 

Traveling is useful in that it gives us a more vivid idea 
of the immense amount of knowledge we yet lack. I 
supposed till to-day that, by virtue of a Scotch-Irish 
ancestry (in part) and a fair acquaintance with the works 
of Walter Scott, Burns, Hogg, &c, I knew the Lowland 
Scotch dialect pretty thoroughly ; and yet a notice plainly 
posted up, "This Lot To Feu," completely bothered me. 
On inquiry, I learned that to feu a lot means to let or 
lease it for building purposes — in other words, to be built 
upon on a ground-rent. I suppose I earned this years 
ago, but had entirely forgotten it. 

The Clyde, though a fair stream at Glasgow, is quite 



SCOTLAND. 305 

narrow for twelve to fifteen miles below that city, seeming 
hardly equal to the Connecticut at Hartford, or the Hudson 
at Waterford ; but then it has a good tide, which helps the 
matter materially, and has at great expense been dredged 
out so as to be navigable for vessels of several hundred 
tuns. We passed a fine American packet-ship with a very 
wholesome looking body of Scotch emigrants, hard aground 
some ten miles below Glasgow, and I was informed that a 
large vessel, even though towed by a steamboat, is seldom 
able to get down into deep water upon a single tide, but is 
stopped half way to wait for another. This river fairly 
swarms with small steamboats, of which there are regular 
lines connecting Glasgow with Londonderry, Belfast, 
Dublin, Fleetwood (north-west of England), Liverpool, 
London, &c. We met four or five boats returning from 
Excursion parties crowded with the better paid artisans 
and laborers of Glasgow, their wives and children. 

The banks of the Clyde for some miles below Glasgow 
are low and marshy, much of the intervale being devoted 
to pasturage, while a rude embankment has been interposed 
on either side, consisting of stones of five to fifty pounds 
each, intended to prevent the washing away of the banks 
by the ripple raised by the often-passing steamboats. The 
end is fairly though not cheaply subserved. As we 
descend, the shores become bolder ; the rugged hills, at 
first barely visible on the right, come near and nearer the 
water: low rocks begin to lift their heads above the 
surface of the stream, while others have their innate 
modesty overpowered by wooden fixtures lifting their 
heads above the highest tides to warn the mariner of his 
danger. At length a gigantic cone of rock rises out of the 
water on the right of the channel to a height of fifty or 
sixty feet, resembling some vast old cathedral : this is 
Dumbarton Castle, with the anciently famous but now 
decaying town of Dumbarton lying at the head of a small 
bay behind it. A little lower on the left is Port Glasgow, 



306 GLANCES AT EUROPE. 

the head of navigation for very large vessels; and three 
miles lower still is Greenock, quite a stirring seaport, 
somewhat addicted to ship-building. Here our boat, which 
had left Glasgow (22 miles above) at 4 P. M. held on till 
8 for the train which left the same port at 7 with the mail 
and additional passengers ; and then laid her course 
directly across the channel to Belfast, 138 miles from 
Glasgow, where she is due at 5 to-morrow morning. 

GLASGOW 

Looks more American than any other city I have seen 
in Europe. Half of Pittsburgh spliced on to half of Phila- 
delphia would make a city very like Glasgow. Iron is 
said to be made cheaper here than elsewhere in the world, 
the ore being alloyed with a carbonaceous substance which 
facilitates the process and reduces the cost of melting. 
Tall chimneys and black columns of smoke are abundant 
in the vicinity. The city is about twice the size of Edin- 
burgh, with more than double the trade of that capital, and 
has risen rapidly from relative insignificance. New rows 
of stately houses have recently been built, and the " court 
end " of the city is extending rapidly toward the West. A 
brown or dark gray stone, as in Edinburgh, is the principal 
material used, and gives the city a very substantial 
appearance. Most of the town, being new, has wide and 
straight streets ; in the older part, they are perverse and 
irrational, as old concerns are apt obstinately to be. They 
have an old Cathedral here (now Presbyterian) of which 
the citizens seem quite proud, I can't perceive why. 
Architecturally, it seems to me a sad waste of stone and 
labor. The other churches are also mainly Presbyterian, 
and, while making less pretensions, are far more creditable 
to the taste of their designers. The town is built on both 
sides of the Clyde, which is crossed by fine stone bridges, 
but seven-eighths of it lie on the north. Ancient Glasgow, 



GLASGOW. 307 

embracing the narrow and crooked streets, lies nearly in 
the center, and is crowded with a squalid and miserable 
population, at least half the women and children, including 
mothers with children in their arms, and grand -mothers, 
or those who might well be such, being without shoes or 
stockings in the cold and muddy streets. Intemperance 
has many votaries here, as indeed, throughout Scotland ; 
" Dealers in Spirits," or words to that effect, being a 
fearfully common sign. I am afraid the good cause of 
Total Abstinence is making no headway here — Glasgow 
has a daily paper (the first in Scotland) and many weeklies, 
one of the best of them being a new one, " The Sentinel/' 
which has a way of going straight to the core of public 
questions, and standing always on the side of thorough 
Reform. Success to it, and a warm goodbye to the rugged 
land of Song and Story — the loved home of Scott and 
Burns. 



XL. 
IRELAND— ULSTER. 

Dublin, Thursday, July 31, 1851. 

Though the night was thick, the wind was light, and we 
had a very good passage across the North Channel, though 
our boat was very middling, and I was nearly poisoned by 
some of my fellow-sleepers in the gentlemen's cabin 
insisting that every window should be closed. O to be 
Pope for one little week, just long enough to set half a 
million pulpits throughout the world to ringing the changes 
on the importance, the vital necessity, of pure, fresh air ! 
The darkness, or rather the general misapprehension, which 
prevails on this subject, is a frightful source of disease and 
misery. Nine-tenths of mankind have such a dread of 
" a draught " or current of air that they will shut them- 
selves up, forty together, in a close room, car or cabin, and 
there poison each other with the exhalations of their mutual 
lungs, until disease and often death are the consequences. 
Why won't they study and learn that a "draught" of pure 
air will injure only those who by draughts of Alcoholic 
poison or some other evil habit or glaring violation of the 
laws of life, have rendered themselves morbidly susceptible, 
and that even a cold is better than the noxiousness of air, 
already exhausted of its oxygen by inhalation ? Nothing 
physical is so sorely needed by the great majority as a 
realizing sense of the blessedness, the indispensable neces- 
sity of pure, fresh air. 

We landed at Belfast at 5 this morning under a pouring 
rain, which slacked off two hours later, but the skies are 



IRELAND ULSTER. 309 

still clouded, as they have been since Tuesday of last week, 
and there has been some sprinkling through the day. 

Of course the Crops are suffering badly. Flax is a 
great staple of the North of Ireland, and three fourths of 
it is beaten flat to the earth. Wheat is injured and poor, 
though not so generally prostrate ; Oats look feeble, and 
as if half drowned ; some of these are, and considerable 
Barley is thrown down ; Grass is light, much of it uncut, 
and much that is cut has lain under the stormy or cloudy 
skies through the last week and looks badly ; only the 
Potatoes look strong and thrifty, and promise an ample 
yield. I shall be agreeably disappointed if Ireland realizes 
a fair average harvest this year. 

Belfast is a busy, growing town, the emporium of the 
Linen Manufacture, and the capital of the Province of 
Ulster, the Northern quarter of Ireland. Jt seems pros- 
perous, though no wise remarkably so ; and I have been 
painfully disappointed in the apparent condition of the 
rural peasantry on the line of travel from Belfast to Dublin, 
which I had understood formed an exception to the general 
misery of Ireland. Out of the towns not one habitation in 
ten is fit for human beings to live in, but mere low, 
cramped hovels of rock, mud and straw ; not one-half the 
families on the way seem to have so much as an acre of 
land to each household ; not half the men to be seen have 
coats to their backs ; and not one in four of the women 
and children have each a pair of shoes or stockings. And 
those feet ! — if the owners would only wash them once a 
week, the general aspect of affairs in this section would be 
materially brightened. Wretchedness, rags and despair 
salute me on every side ; and if this be the best part of 
Ireland, what must the state of the worst be ? 

From Belfast we had railroad to Armagh, 35 miles ; then 
13 miles by omnibus to Castle Blayney. We came over 
this latter route with ten or twelve passengers, and a tun 
or so of luggage on the outside of the Railroad Company's 



310 GLANCES AT EUROPE. 

omnibus, with thirteen of us stowed inside, beside a 
youngster in arms, who illustrated the doctrine of Innate 
Depravity by a perpetual fight with his mother. Yet. 
thus overloaded we were driven the thirteen miles of 
muddy road in about two hours, taking at Castle Blayney 
another railroad train, which brought us almost to 
Drogheda, some 25 miles, where we had to take another 
omnibus for a mile or two, for want of a railroad bridge 
over the Boyne, thus reaching another train which brought 
us into Dublin, 32 miles. The North of Ireland is yet 
destitute of any other railroads than such patches and 
fragments as these, whereby I am precluded from seeing 
Londonderry, and its vicinity, which I much desired. At 
length we were brought into Dublin at half-past three 
o'clock, or in eight hours from Belfast, about one 
hundred and thirty miles. 

The face of the country through this part of Ireland is 
moderately rolling, though some fair hills appear in the 
distance. The land is generally good, though there are 
considerable tracts of hard, thin soil. Small bogs are 
frequently seen, but no one exceeding a dozen acres ; the 
large ones lying farther inland. Taking so little room and 
supplying the poor with a handy and cheap fuel, I doubt 
that these little bogs are any detrimen to the country. 
Some of them have been made to take on a soil (by 
draining, cutting, drying and burning the upper strata of 
peat, and spreading the ashes over the entire surface), and 
are now quite productive. — Drainage and ridging are 
almost universally resorted to, showing the extraordinary 
humidity of the atmosphere. The Potato is now generally 
in blossom, and, having a large breadth of the land, and 
being in fine condition, gives an appearance of thrift and 
beauty to the landscape. But, in spite of this, the general 
yield of Ireland in 1851 is destined to be meager. There 
is more misery in store for this unhappy people. 

We cross two small lakes some ten to fifteen miles north 



IRELAND ULSTER. 31 J 

of this city, and run for some distance close to the shore 
of the Channel. At length, a vision of dwellings, edifices 
and spires bounds the horizon of the level plain to the 
south-west, and in a few minutes we are in Dublin. 



XLI. 
WEST OF IRELAND— ATLANTIC MAILS. 

Galway, Ireland, Aug. 2, 1851 

I came down here yesterday from Dublin (126^ miles) 
by the first Railroad train ever run through for the travel- 
ing public, hoping not only to acquire some personal know- 
ledge of the West of Ireland, but also to gain some idea of 
the advantages and difficulties attending the proposed es- 
tablishment of a direct communication by Mail Steamers 
between this port and our own country. And although my 
trip is necessarily a hurried one, yet, having been rowed 
down and nearly across the Bay, so as to gain some know- 
ledge of its conformation and its entrance, and having 
traversed the town in every direction, and made the ac- 
quaintance of some of its most intelligent citizens, I shall 
at all events return with a clearer idea of the whole subject 
than ever so much distant study of maps, charts and books 
could have given me. 

The Midland Railroad from Dublin passes by Maynooth, 
Mullingar, Athlone (where it crosses the Shannon by a 
noble iron bridge), and Ballinasloe to this place, at the head 
of Galway Bay, some twenty-five miles inland from the 
broad Atlantic. The country is remarkably level through- 
out, and very little rock-cutting and but a moderate amount 
of excavation have been required in making the Railroad, 
of which a part (from Dublin to Mullingar) has been for 
some time in operation, while the residue has just been 
opened (The old stage-road from Dublin to Galway mea- 



WEST OF IRELAND. 313 

sures 133 miles, or nearly seven more than the Railroad.) 
I presume there is nowhere an elevation of forty feet to the 
mile, and with a good double track (now nearly complet- 
ed), there can be no difficulty in running express trains 
through in three hours. From Dublin to Holyhead will 
require four hours, and from Holyhead to London six more, 
making fifteen hours in all (including two for coming into 
Galway) for the transportation of the Mails from the broad 
Atlantic off this port to London. Allow three more for 
leeway, and still the entire Mails may be distributed in 
London about the time that the steamship can now be tele- 
graphed as off Holyhead, and at least twelve (I hope fifteen) 
hours earlier than the Mails can now be received in Lon- 
don, to say nothing of the saving of thirty or forty hours 
on the Mails to and from Ireland, and twenty or so for those 
of Scotland. Is there any good reason why those hours 
should not be saved ? I can perceive none, even though the 
steamships should still proceed to Liverpool as heretofore. 
Galway Bay is abundantly large enough and safe enough 
for steamships, even as it is, though its security is suscep- 
tible of easy improvement. It has abundant depth inside, 
but hardly twenty feet at low water on a bar in the harbor, 
so that large steamships coming in would be obliged to an- 
chor a mile or so from the dock for high water if they did 
not arrive so as to hit it, as they must now wait off the bar 
at Liverpool, only much further from the dock. But what 
I contemplate as a beginning is not the bringing in of the 
Steamships but of their Mails. Let a small steamboat be 
waiting outside when a Mail Steamer is expected (as now 
off the bar at Liverpool), and let the Mails and such passen- 
gers as would like to feel the firm earth under their feet 
once more, be swiftly transferred to the little boat, run up 
to Galway, put on an express train, started for Dublin, and 
thence sent over to Holyhead, and dispatched to London 
and Liverpool forthwith. Let Irish Mails for Galway, 
Dublin, &c, and Scotch Mails for Glasgow be made up on 



314 GLANCES AT EUROPE. 

our side, and let us see, by three or four fair trials, what 
saving of time could be effected by landing the Mails at 
Galway, and then we shall be in a position to determine the 
extent and character of the permanent changes which are re- 
quired. That a saving of fully twelve hours for England and 
thirty for Ireland may be secured by making Galway the 
European terminus of the Atlantic Mail Route, I am very 
confident, while in the calculations of those who feel a local 
and personal interest in the change the saving is far greater. 
But this is quite enough to justify the inconsiderable 
expense which the experiment I urge would involve. 

Galway was formerly a place of far greater commerce 
and consequence than it now is. It long enjoyed an ex- 
tensive and profitable direct trade with Spain, which, since 
the Union of Ireland with England, is entirely transferred 
to London, so that not a shadow of it remains. At a later 
day, it exported considerable Grain, Bacon, &c, to Eng- 
land, but the general decline of Irish Industry, and the low 
prices of food since Free Trade, have nearly destroyed this 
trade also, and there are now, except fishing-boats, scarce- 
ly half a dozen vessels in the harbor, and of these the two 
principal are a Russian from the Black Sea selling Corn, 
to a district whose resources are Agricultural or nothing, 
and a smart-looking Yankee clipper taking in a load of 
emigrants and luggage for New- York— the export of her 
population being about the only branch of Ireland's com- 
merce which yet survives the general ruin. Galway had 
once 60,000 inhabitants ; she may now have at most 
30,000 ; but there is no American seaport with 5,000 which 
does not far surpass her annual aggregate of trade and in- 
dustry. What should we think in America of a seaport of 
at least 25,000 inhabitants, the capital of a large, populous 
county, located at the head of a noble, spacious bay, look- 
ing off* on the broad Atlantic some twenty miles distant, 
with cities of twenty, fifty, and a hundred thousand in- 
habitants within a few hours' reach on either side of her, 



WEST OF IRELAND. 315 

yet not owning a single steamboat of any shape or nature, 
and not even visited by one daily, weekly, monthly, or at 
any stated period ? Truly, the desolation of Ireland must 
be witnessed or it cannot be realized. 

I judge tljat of nearly thirty thousand people who live 
here, not ten thousand have any regular employment or 
means of livelihood. The majority pick up a job when 
they can, but are inevitably idle and suffering two-thirds 
of the time. Of course, the Million learn nothing, have 
nothing, and come to nothing. They are scarcely in 
fault, but those who ought to teach them, counsel them, 
employ them, until they shall be qualified to employ 
themselves, are deplorably culpable. Here are gentlemen 
and ladies of education and wealth (dozens where there 
were formerly hundreds) who year after year and genera- 
tion after generation have lived in luxury on the income 
wrung from these poor creatures in the shape of Rent, 
without ever giving them a helping hand or a kind word 
in return — without even suspecting that they were under 
moral obligation to do so. Here is a Priesthood, the 
conscience-keepers and religious instructors of this fortu- 
nate class, who also have fared sumptuously and amassed 
wealth out of the tithes wrenched by law-sanctioned 
robbery from the products of this same wretched peasantry, 
yet never proffered them anything in return but conversion 
to the faith of their plunderers — certainly not a tempting 
proffer under the circumstances. And here also is a 
Priesthood beloved, reverenced, confided in by this 
peasantry, and loving them in return, who I think have 
done far less than they might and should have done to 
raise them out of the slough in which generation after 
generation are sinking deeper and deeper. I speak plainly 
on this point, for I feel strongly. The Catholic Priesthood 
of Ireland resist the education of the Peasantry under 
Protestant auspices and influences, for which we will 
presume they have good reason ; but, in thus cutting them 



316 GLANCES AT EUROPE. 

off from one chance of improving their social and intellec- 
tual condition, they double their own moral responsibility 
to secure the Education of the Poor in some manner not 
inconsistent with the preservation of their faith. And, 
seeing what I have seen and do see of the unequaled power 
of this Priesthood — a power immensely greater in Ireland 
than in Italy, for there the Priests are generally regarded 
as the allies of the tyrant and plundering class, while here 
they are doubly beloved as its enemies and its victims — I 
feel an undoubting conviction that simply an earnest 
determination of the Catholic Hierarchy of Ireland that 
every Catholic child in the country shall receive a good 
education would secure its own fulfilment within five 
years, and thenceforth for ever. Let but one generation 
be well educated, and there can be no rational apprehen- 
sion that their children or grandchildren will be allowed 
to grow up in ignorance and helplessness. Knowledge is 
self-perpetuating, self-extending. And, dreadfully destitute 
as this country is, the Priesthood of the People can com- 
mand the means of educating that People, which nobody 
without their cooperation can accomplish. Let the 
Catholic Bishops unite in an earnest and potential call for 
teachers, and they can summon thousands and tens of 
thousands of capable and qualified persons from convents, 
from seminaries, from cloisters, from drawing-rooms, even 
from foreign lands if need be, to devote their time and 
efforts to the work without earthly recompense or any 
stipulation save for a bare subsistence, which the less 
needy Catholics, or even the more liberal Protestants, in 
every parish would gladly proffer them. There is really 
no serious obstacle in the way of this first great step toward 
Ireland's regeneration if the Priesthood will zealously 
attempt it. 

But closely allied to this subject, and not inferior to it in 
importance, stands that of Industrial Training. The Irish 
Peasantry are idle, the English say truly enough ; but who 



WEST OF IRELAND. S17 

inquires whether there is any work within their reach ? 
Suppose there was always something to do, what avails 
that to millions who know not how to do that precise 
something ? Walking with a friend through one of the 
back streets of Gal way beside the outlet of the Lakes, I 
came where a girl of ten years old was breaking up hard 
brook pebbles into suitable fragments to mend roads with. 
We halted, and M. asked her how much she received for 
that labor. She answered, " Six-pence a car-load." " How 
long will it take you to break a car-load ? " " About a 
fortnight." Further questions respecting her family, &c, 
were answei'ed with equal directness and propriety, and 
with manifest truth. Here was a mere child, who should 
have been sent to school, delving from morning till night 
at an employment utterly unsuited to her sex and her 
strength, and which I should consider dangerous to her 
eyesight, to earn for her poor parents a half-penny per day. 
Think of this, ye who talk, not always without reason, of 
"factory slaves'' and the meagre rewards of labor in 
America. In any community where labor is even decently 
rewarded, that child should have been enabled to earn 
every day at least as much as her fortnight's work on the 
stone-heap would command. And even in Gal way, a 
concerted and systematic Industrial Education for the Poor 
would enable her to earn at some light and suitable em- 
ployment six times what she now does. ■ 

In every street of the town you constantly meet girls of 
fourteen to twenty, as well as old women and children, 
utterly barefoot and in ragged clothing. I should juage. 
from the streets that not more than one-fourth of the 
females of Galway belong to the shoe-wearing aristocracy. 
Now no one acquainted with Human Nature will pretend 
that girls of fourteen to twenty will walk the streets bare- 
foot if the means of buying shoes and stockings by honest 
labor are fairly within their reach. But here there arc 
nonesuch for thousands. Born in wretched huts of rough 



318 GLANCES AT EUROPE. 

stone and rotten straw, compared with which the poorest 
log-cabin is a palace, with a turf fire, no window, and a 
mass of filth heaped up before the door, untaught even to 
read, and growing up in a region where no manufactures 
nor arts are prosecuted, the Irish peasant-girl arrives at 
womanhood less qualified by experience, observation or 
training for industrial efficiency and usefulness than the 
daughter of any Choctaw or Sioux Indian. Of course, not 
all the Irish, even of the wretchedly poor, are thus un- 
skilled and helpless, but a deplorably large class is ; and it 
is this class whose awkwardness and utter ignorance are 
too often made the theme of unthinking levity and ridicule 
when the poor exile from home and kindred lands in New 
York and undertakes housework or anything else for a 
living. The " awkwardness," which means only inability 
to do what one has never even seen done, is not confined 
to any class or nation, and should be regarded with every 
allowance. 

An Industrial School, especially for girls, in every town, 
village and parish of Ireland, is one of the crying needs of 
the time. I am confident there are in Galway alone five 
thousand women and girls who would hail with gratitude 
and thoroughly improve an opportunity to earn six-pence 
per day. If they could be taught needle-work, plain dress- 
making, straw-braiding, and a few of the simplest branches 
of manufactures, such as are carried on in households, 
they might and would at once emerge from the destitution 
and social degradation which now enshroud them into 
independence, comfort and consideration. Knowing how 
to work and to earn a decent subsistence, they would very 
soon seek and acquire a knowledge of letters if previously 
ignorant. of them. In short, the Industrial Education of 
the Irish Peasantry is the noblest and the most hopeful 
idea yet broached for their intellectual and social elevation, 
and I have great hope of its speedy triumph. It is now 
beintr agitated in Dublin and many other localities, a 



WEST OF IRELAND. 319 

central and many auxiliary schools having already been 
established. But I will speak further on this point in 
another letter. 

Galway has an immense and steady water-power within 
half a mile of its harbor, on the outlet of Lakes Corrib and 
Mash, by means of which it enjoys an admirable internal 
navigation extending some sixty miles northward. Here 
Manufactures might be established with a certainty of 
commanding the cheapest power, cheapest labor and 
cheapest fuel to be had in the world. I never saw a spot 
where so much water power yet unused could be obtained 
at so trifling a cost as here directly on the west line of the 
town and within half a mile of its center. A beautiful 
Marble is found on the line of the Railroad only a few 
miles from the town, and all along the line to Dublin the 
abundance and excellence of the building-stone are 
remarkable. Timber and Brick come down the Lake 
outlet as fast as they are wanted, while Provisions are 
here cheap as in any part of the British Isles. Nature has 
plainly designed Galway for a great and prosperous city, 
the site of extensive manufactures, the emporium of an 
important trade, and the gateway of Europe toward Ame- 
rica ; but. whether all this is or is not to be dashed by 
the fatality which has hitherto attended Irish prospects, 
remains to be seen. 1 trust that it is not, but that a new 
Liverpool is destined soon to arise here ; and that, should 
I ever again visit. Europe, 1 shall first land on the quay of 
Galway. 



XLIT. 
IRELAND— SOUTH. 

Dublin, Tuesday, Aug. 5, 1851. 

I had hoped to see all of Ireland that is accessible by- 
Railroad from this city, but Time will not permit. Having 
remained here over Sunday, I had only Monday left for 
a trip Southward, and that would just suffice for reaching 
Limerick and returning without attempting Cork. So at 
7 yesterday morning I took the " Great Southern and West- 
ern Railroad,'' and was set down in Limerick (130 miles) 
at a quarter before 1, passing Kildare, with its " Curragh " 
or spacious race-ground, Maryborough and Thurles on the 
way. Portarlington, Mount Melick, Mountrath and Temple- 
more — all considerable towns — lie a few miles from the 
Railroad, on the right or west, as Naas, Cashel and Tippe- 
rary are not far from it on the left ; while another Railroad, 
the " Irish South-Eastern, " diverges at Kildare to Carlow, 
Bagnalstown and Kilkenny (146 miles from Dublin) on the 
South ; while from Kilkenny the " Kilkenny and Water- 
ford " has already been constructed to Thomastown (some 
20 miles), and is to reach Waterford, at the head of ship 
navigation on the common estuary at the mouth of the 
Suir and Barrow, when completed. 

I left the Great Southern and Western at Limerick 
Junction, 107 miles S. S. W. of Dublin, and took the cross- 
road from Tipperary to Limerick (30 miles), but the main 
road proceeds south-westerly to Charleville, 22| miles fur- 
ther, and thence leads due south to Mallow, on the Black- 



IRELAND SOUTH. 321 

water, and then south by east to Cork, 164£ miles from 
Dublin, while another railroad has just been opened from 
Cork to Bandon, 18 J miles still further south-west, making 
a completed line from Dublin to Bandon, 183 J- miles, with 
branches to Limerick, Tipperary and Kilkenny, the latter 
to be continued to Waterford. In a country so easily 
traversed by Railroads, and so swarming with population 
as Ireland, these roads should be not only most useful but 
most productive to their stockholders, but they are very far 
from it. Few of the peasantry can afford to travel by 
them, except when leaving the country for ever, and their 
scanty patches of ground produce little surplus food for 
exportation, while they can afford to buy little that the 
Railroads bring in. Were the population of Ireland as 
well fed and as enterprising as that of New-England, with 
an industry as well diversified, her Railroads would pay 
ten per cent, on their cost ; as things now are, they do not 
pay two per cent. Thus the rapacity of Capital defeats 
itself, and actually impoverishes its owners when it de- 
prives Labor of a fair reward. If all the property-holders 
of Ireland would to-day combine in a firm resolve to pay 
at least half a dollar per day for men's labor, and to em- 
ploy all that should present themselves, introducing new 
arts and manufactures and improving their estates in order 
to furnish such employment, they would not only speedily 
banish destitution and ignorance from the land but they 
would double the value of their own possessions. This is 
one of the truths which sloth, rapacity and extravagance 
are slow to learn, yet which they cannot safely ignore. 
The decay and ruin of nearly all the " old families " in 
Ireland are among the penalties of disregarding it. 

To talk of an excess of labor, or an inability to employ 
it, in such a country as Ireland, is to insult the general un- 
derstanding. In the first place, there is an immediate and 
urgent demand for at least Half a Million comfortable 
rain-proof dwellings. The inconceivable wretched hovels 



322 GLANCES AT EUROPE. 

in which nine-tenths of the peasantry endure existence 
inevitably engender indolence, filthiness and disease. Ge- 
neration after generation grows up ignorant and squalid 
from never having had a fireside by which they could sit 
down to read or study, nor an example of home comfort 
and cleanliness in their own class to profit by. In those 
narrow, unlighted, earth-floored, straw- thatched cabins 
there is no room for the father and his sons to sit down and 
enjoy an evening, so they straggle off to the nearest grogge- 
ry or other den in search of the comfort their home denies 
them. Of course, men who have grown up in this way 
have no idea of anything better and are slow to mend; but 
the personal influence of their superiors in wealth and 
station is very great, and might be ten times greater if the 
more fortunate class would make themselves familiar with 
the wants and woes, the feelings and aspirations of the 
poor, and act toward them as friends and wiser brethren, 
instead of seeming to regard them only as strange dogs to 
be repelled or as sheep to be sheared. But the first practi- 
cal point to be struggled for is that of steady employment 
and just reward for labor. So long as men's wages (without 
board) range from fourpence to one and six-pence per day, 
and women's from a penny to six-pence (which, so far as 
I can learn, are the current rates at present, and nothing 
to do for half the year at any price), no radical improve- 
ment can be hoped for. A family with nothing to do, very 
little to eat and only a hog-pen to live in, will neither ac- 
quire mental expansion, moral integrity, nor habits of neat- 
ness and industry. On the contrary, however deficient 
they may originally be in these respects, they are morally 
certain to grow worse so long as their circumstances re- 
main unchanged. But draw them out of their wretched 
hovel into a neat, dry, glass-lighted, comfortable dwelling, 
offer them work at all seasons, and a fair recompense for 
doing it, and you will have at least rendered improvement 
possible. The feasibility of cleanliness will instill the love 



IRELAND SOUTH. 323 

of it, at least in the younger members ; the opportunity of 
earning will awaken the instinct of saving as well as the 
desire to maintain a comely appearance in the eyes of 
friends and neighbors. The laborer, well paid, will natu- 
rally be adequately fed, and both able and willing to per- 
form thrice the work per day he now does or can ; seeing 
the more efficient often step above them to posts better 
paid and more respected, the dullest workers will aspire to 
greater knowledge and skill in order that they too may 
attain more eligible positions. " It is the first step that 
costs " — the others follow almost of course. If the 
Aristocracy of Ireland would unitedly resolve that every 
individual in the land should henceforth have constant 
work and just recompense, the outlay involved need not 
be great and the return would be abundant and certain. 
They have ample water-power for a thousand factories, 
machine-shops, foundries, &c, which has run to waste 
since creation, and can never bring them a dollar while 
Irish Industry remains as rude, ill-paid and inefficient as it 
now is. Every dollar wisely spent in improving this 
power will add two to the value of their estates. So they 
have stone-quarries of immense value all over the island 
which never produced anything and never will while the 
millions live in hovels and confine their attention to grow- 
ing oats and potatoes for a subsistence. Agriculture alone 
and especially such Agriculture, can never adequately 
employ the people ; when the Oats and Potatoes have 
been harvested, the peasant has very little to do but eat 
them until the season for planting them returns. But 
introduce a hundred new arts and processes — let each 
village have its mechanics, each county its manufacturers 
of the various wares and fabrics really needed in the 
country, and the excess of work done over the present 
aggregate would speedily transform general poverty into 
general competence. The Six Millions of People in Ireland 
are doing far less work this year than the Three Millions 



324 GLANCES AT EUROPE. 

of New-England, although the Irish in New-England are 
at least as industrious and efficient as the natives. They 
work well everywhere but at home, because they every- 
where else find the more powerful class ready to employ 
them, instruct them, pay them. In Ireland alone are they 
required to work for six pence to eighteen pence per day, 
and even at these rates stand idle half the- year for want 
of anything to do ; so that the rent which they would 
readily double (for better tenements) if they were fully 
employed and fairly paid, now benumbs and crushes them, 
and their little patches of land, which ought to be in the 
highest degree productive, are often the worst cultivated 
of any this side of the Alps. Ignorance, want, and hope- 
lessness have paralysed their energies, and the consequent 
decay of the Peasantry has involved most of the Aristo- 
cracy in the general ruin. The Encumbered Estates 
Commission is now rapidly passing the soil of Ireland out 
of the hands of its bankrupt landlords into those of a new 
generation. May these be wise enough to profit by the 
warning before them, and by uniting to elevate the 
condition of the Laboring Millions place their own pros- 
perity on a solid and lasting foundation ! 

GENERAL ASPECTS. 

The South of Ireland is decidedly more fertile and 
inviting than the North or West. There is a deeper, 
richer soil, with far less stone on the level low lands. The 
railroad from Dublin to Limerick runs throughout over a 
level plain, and though it passes from the valley of the 
Liffey across those of the Barrow, the Durrow and the 
Suir to that of the Shannon, no perceptible ridge is 
crossed, no tunnel traversed, and very little rock-cutting 
or embankment required. Although the highways are 
often carried over the track at an absurd expense, while 
the principal depots are made to cost thrice what thev 



GENERAL ASPECTS. 



325 



should, I still cannot account, for the great outlay on Irish 
railroads. They would have been built at one- half the 
cost in the States, where the wages of labor are thrice as 
much as here : who pockets the difference ? Of course, 
there is stealing in the assessment of land damages ; but so 
there is everywhere. When I was in Gal way, a case was 
tried in which a proprietor, whose bog was crossed by the 
Midland Railroad, sued the company for more than the 
Appraisers had awarded him, and it was proved on the 
trial that his bog, utterly worthless before, had been 
partially drained and considerably increased in value by 
the railroad. There seems to be no conscience in exacting 
damages of those who invest their money, often most 
reluctantly, in railroads, of which the main benefits are 
universal. In Ireland they have palpably and greatly 
benefited every class but the stockholders, and these they 
have well nigh ruined. 

There are fewer remains of dwellings recently "cleared " 
and thrown down in the South than in the West of Ire- 
land ; though they are not unknown here ; but I saw no 
new ones going up, save in immediate connection with the 
Railroads, in either section. If Government, Society and 
Ideas are to remain as they have been, the country may 
be considered absolutely finished, with nothing more to do 
but decay. I trust, however, that a new leaf is about to 
be turned over ; still, it is mournful to pass through so 
fine a country and see how the hand of death has transfixed 
it. Even Limerick, at the head of ship navigation on the 
glorious estuary of the Shannon, with steamboat naviga- 
tion through the heart of this populous kingdom for sixty 
or eighty miles above it, shows scarcely a recent building 
except the Railroad Depot and the Union Poor-House, 
while its general aspect is that of stagnation, decline and 
decay. The smaller towns between it and Dublin have a 
like gloomy appearance — Kildare, with its deserted 
" Curragh " and its towering ruins, looking most dreary of 

15 



326 GLANCES AT EUROPE. 

all. Happy is the Irishman who, in a new land and amid 
the activities and hopes which it inspires, is spared the 
daily contemplation of his country's ruin. 

And yet there are brighter shades to the picture. 
Nature, ever buoyant and imperative, does her best to 
remedy the ills created by " Man's inhumanity to Man." 
The South of Ireland seems far better wooded than either 
the North or West, and thrifty young forests and tree 
plantations soften the gloom which unroofed and ruinous 
cabins would naturally suggest. Though the Railroad 
runs wholly through a tame, dull level, sweeping ranges 
of hills appear at intervals on either side, exhibiting a 
lovely alternation of cultivation, grass and forest, to the 
delighted traveler. The Hay crop is badly saved so far, 
and some that has been cut several days is still under the 
weather, while a good deal, though long ripe, remains 
uncut ; the Wheat looks to me thin and uneven ; Oats (the 
principal grain here) are short and generally poor ; but I 
never saw the Potato more luxuriant or promising, and the 
area covered with this nob4e root is most extensive. The 
poor have a fashion of planting in beds three to six feet 
wide, with narrow alleys between ; which, though involving 
extra labor, must insure a large yield, and presents a most 
luxuriant appearance. Little Rye was sown, but that 
little is very good ; Barley is suffering from the stormy 
weather, but is quite thrifty. Yet there is much arable 
land either wholly neglected or only yielding a little grass, 
while I perceive even less bog undergoing reclamation 
than in the West. I did not anticipate a tour of pleasure 
through Ireland, but the reality is more painful than I 
anticipated. Of all I have seen at work in the fields to-day, 
cutting and carrying turf, hoeing potatoes, shaking out 
Hay, &c, at least one-third were women. If I could 
believe that their fathers and husbands were in America, 
clearing lands and erecting cabins for their future homes, 
I should not regret this. But the probability is that only 



GENERAL ASPECTS. 327 

a few of them are there or hopefully employed anywhere, 
while hundreds of neglected, weedy, unpromising patches 
of cultivation show that, narrow as the holdings mainly are, 
they are yet often unskillfully cultivated. The end of this 
is of course ejectment, whence the next stage is the Union 
Work-House. Alas ! unhappy Ireland ! 



XLIII. 
PROSPECTS OF IRELAND. 

Dublin, Tuesday, August 5, 1851. 

Of Irish stagnation, Irish urithrift, Irish destitution, Irish 
misery, the world has heard enough. I could not wholly 
avoid them without giving an essentially false and decep- 
tive account of what must be painfully obvious to every 
traveler in Ireland ; yet I have chosen to pass them over 
lightly and hurriedly, and shall not recur to them. They 
are in the main sufficiently well known to the civilized 
world, and, apart from suggestions of amendment, their 
contemplation can neither be pleasant nor profitable. I 
will only add here that though, in spite of Poor Laws and 
Union Poor-Houses, there are still much actual want, 
suffering and beggary in Ireland, yet the beggars here are 
by no means so numerous nor so importunate as in Italy, 
though the excuses for mendicity are far greater. What I 
propose now to bring under hasty review are the principal 
plans for the removal of Ireland's woes and the conversion 
of her myriads of paupers into independent and comfortable 
laborers. I shall speak of these in succession, beginning 
with the oldest and closing with the newest that has come 
under my observation. And first, then, of 

REPEAL. 

The hope of obtaining from the British Crown and 
Parliament the concession of a separate Legislature of 



REPEAL. 329 

their own seems nearly to have died out of the hearts of 
the Irish millions. The death of O'Connell deprived the 
measure of its mightiest advocate ; Famine and other dis- 
asters followed ; and fresher projects of amelioration have 
since to a great extent supplanted it in the popular mind. 
Yet it is to-day most palpable that such a Legislature is 
of the highest moment to the National well-being, and that 
its concession would work the greatest good to Ireland 
without injury to England. Nay ; I see fresh reasons for 
my hope that such concession is far nearer than is 
generally imagined. 

On all hands it is perceived and conceded that the 
amount of legislation required by the vast, widely scattered 
and diversely constituted portions of the British Empire is 
too great to be properly affected by any deliberative body. 
Parliament is just closing a long session, yet leaving very 
much of its proper business untouched for want of time, 
and that pertaining to Ireland is especially neglected. 
Then it has just passed a most unwise and irritating act 
with regard to the titles of the Catholic Prelates, which, 
because every act of Parliament must extend to Ireland 
unless that country is expressly excluded, is allowed to 
operate there, though the bad reasons given for its enact- 
ment at all have no application to that country, while the 
mischiefs it will do there are ten times greater than all it 
can effect in Great Britain. Had Ireland a separate 
Parliament, no British Minister would have been mad 
enough to propose the extension of this act over that 
country, where it is certain to excite disaffection and 
disloyalty, arouse slumbering hatreds, and impede the 
march of National and Social improvement. An Irish 
Parliament, with specified powers and duties akin to those 
of an American State Legislature, would be a great relief 
to a British Parliament and Ministry, a great support to 
Irish loyalty and Irish improvement, and no harm to any- 
body. These truths seem to me so palpable that I think 



330 GLANCES AT EUROPE. 

they cannot long be disregarded, but that some one of the 
Political changes frequently occurring in Great Britain 
will secure to Ireland a restoration of her domestic 
Legislature. Neither Canada, Jamaica nor any other 
British colony can show half so good reasons for a domestic 
Legislature. 

TENANT-RIGHT. 

The agitation for Tenant-Right in Ireland is destined 
to fail — in fact, has virtually failed already. The Imperial 
Parliament will never concede that right, nor will any 
Legislature similarly constituted. And yet the demand 
has the clearest and strongest basis of natural and eternal 
justice, as any fair mind 'must confess. What is that 
demand? Simply that the creator of a new value shall 
be legally entitled to that value, or, in case he is required 
to surrender it to another, shall be paid a fair and just 
equivalent therefor. Here is a farm, for instance, whereof 
one man is recognised by law as the owner, and he lets it 
for three lives or a specific term of years to a tenant- 
cultivator for ten, fifteen or twenty shillings per acre. 
The tenant occupies it, cultivates it, pays the rent and 
improves it. At the close of his term, he is found to have 
built a good house on it instead of the old rookery he found 
there, while by fencing, draining, manuring and subsoiling 
he has doubled its productive capacity, and consequently 
its annual value. He wishes to cultivate it still, and offers 
to renew the lease for any number of years, and pay the 
rent punctually. "But no," says the landlord, "you must 
pay twice as much rent as hitherto." "Why so?" 
" Because the land is more valuable than it was when you 
took it." " Certainly it is ; but that value is wholly the 
fruit of my labor — it has cost you nothing." " Can't help 
that, Sir ; you improved for your own benefit, and with a 
full knowledge that the additional value would revert to 



EMIGRATION. 331 

me on the expiration of your lease ; so pay my price or 
clear out !" — Is this right ? The law says Yes ; but Justice 
says No ; Public Good says even more imperatively No. 
The laws of the land should encourage every occupier to 
improve the land he holds, to expend, capital and employ 
labor upon it, so as to increase its value and productive 
capacity from year to year; but the law of the British 
Empire discourages improvement and impedes the employ- 
ment of labor by taking the product from the producer 
and giving it arbitrarily to the landlord. Yet the landlord 
influence in Parliament is so predominant, so overwhelming, 
that no repeal, no mitigation even, of this great wrong is 
probable ; and every demand for it is overborne by a 
senseless outcry against Agrarianism. Still, the agitation 
for Tenant-Right does good by imbuing the popular mind 
with some idea of the monster evil and wrong of the 
Monopoly of Land — an idea which will not always remain 
unfruitful. 

EMIGRATION. 

Emigration is now proceeding with gigantic strides, and 
is destined for some time to continue. I think a full third 
of the present population of Ireland are anxious to leave 
their native land, and will do so if they shall ever have the 
means before better prospects are opened to them. Packet- 
ships are constantly loading with emigrants at all the prin- 
cipal ports, while thousands are flocking monthly to 
Liverpool to find ready and cheap conveyance to 
America. But this emigration, however advisable for the 
departing, does little for those left behind, and is in the 
main detrimental to the country. The energetic, the dar- 
ing, the high-spirited go, leaving the residue more abject 
and nerveless than ever. If Two Millions more were to 
leave the country next year, the condition of the remainder 
would not be essentially improved. Over population is 
not a leading cause of Ireland's present miseries. 



332 GLANCES AT EUROPE. 



EDUCATION. 



Rudimental knowledge is being slowly diffused in Ireland, 
in spite of the serious impediments interposed by Religious 
jealousy and bigotry. But this remedy, as now applied, 
does not reach the seat of the disease. They are mainly 
the better class of poor children who are educated in the 
National and other elementary schools ; the most depraved, 
benighted, degraded, are still below their reach. The 
destitute, hungry, unemployed, unclad, despairing, cannot 
or do not send their children to school ; the wife and 
mother who must work daily in the turf-bog or potato-field 
for a few pence per day must keep her older child at home 
to mind the younger ones in her absence. Education, in 
its larger, truer meaning, is the great remedy for Ireland's 
woes; but until the parents have steadier employment and 
a juster recompense the general education of the children 
is impracticable. 

ENCUMBERED ESTATES. 

The act authorizing and requiring the sale of irre- 
deemably Encumbered Estates in Ireland is one of the 
best which a British Parliament has passed in many years. 
Under its operation, a large portion of the soil is rapidly 
passing from the nominal ownership of bankrupts wholly 
unable and unqualified to improve it into those of new 
proprietors who, it may fairly be hoped, will generally be 
able to improve it, giving employment to more labor and 
increasing the annual product. The benefits of this 
change, however, can be but slowly realized, and are for 
the present hardly perceptible. 

IRISH MANUFACTURES. 

Within the past few months, a very decided interest 
has been awakened in the minds of enlightened and 



IRISH MANUFACTURES. 333 

patriotic Irishmen in Dublin and other places, with regard 
to the importance and possibility of establishing various 
branches of Household Manufactures throughout the 
country. It is manifest that the general cheapness of 
Labor and Food, the facilities now enjoyed for communi- 
cation, not only with Great Britain, but with all Europe 
and America also, and the extraordinary amount of unem- 
ployed and undeveloped capacity in Ireland, render the 
introduction of Manufactures at once eminently desirable 
and palpably feasible. Even though nothing could be 
immediately earned thereby, the simple diffusion of indus 
trial skill and efficiency which must ensue from such 
introduction would be an inestimable gain to the peasantry 
of Ireland. But allow that all the idle poor of this island 
could in six months be taught how to earn six pence each 
per day, the aggregate benefit to the Irish and to mankind 
would be greater than that of all the gold mines yet 
discovered. The Poorhouse Unions could be nearly 
emptied in a year, and this whole population comfortably 
fed, clad and housed within the next three years. A 
beginning must be made with the simplest or household 
manufactures, for want of means to establish the more 
complex, costly and efficient branches, which require 
extensive Machinery and aggregation of Laborers ; but 
if the first step be successfully taken, others are certain to 
follow. With abundant water-power and inexhaustible 
beds of fuel yet untouched, it is demonstrable that Manu- 
factures of Cotton and Woolen, as well as Linen, might be 
prosecuted in Ireland even cheaper than in England, 
though the average recompense of Labor should thereby 
be doubled. 

The first impulse to the Manufacture movement appears 
to have been given by Mr. Thomas Mooney, a gentleman 
well known to his countrymen throughout the United 
States, whence he returned some eighteen months ago. 
Primarily at his suggestion, a " Parent Board of Irish 

15* 



334 GLANCES AT EUROPE. 

Manufacture" was organized in Dublin several months 
since, funds collected by voluntary subscription, an office 
opened, and a central school established, with a view to 
the qualification of teachers for the superintendence of 
auxiliary schools throughout the country. The enterprise 
was proceeding vigorously and with daily increasing 
momentum when Dissension, the evil genius of Ireland, 
broke out among its leading supporters, which has resulted 
in the division of the original Society into two, one of them 
sustaining Mr. Mooney and the other claiming to have 
taken the movement entirely out of his hands. Thus the 
case stands at present, but thus I trust it will not long 
remain. The enterprise is one of the most feasible and 
hopeful of the many that have been undertaken for the 
benefit of Ireland, and affords ample scope and occupation 
for all who may see fit to labor for its success. I trust 
that all differences will speedily be harmonized, and that 
the friends of the movement, once more united, may urge 
it forward to a most complete and beneficent triumph. 

PEAT MANUFACTURE. 

The Peat Bogs of Ireland cover some Three Millions 
of Acres of its surface, mainly in the heart of the country, 
though extending into every part of it. Perhaps One 
Hundred Thousand Acres, chiefly in the north-east, have 
been brought into cultivation ; of the residue, some yields 
a little sour pasturage, but the greater portion is of no use 
whatever, save as it supplies a very poor but cheap fuel to 
the peasantry. These bogs are of all depths from a few 
inches to thirty or forty feet, though the very shallow have 
generally been reclaimed. This is effected in some cases 
by removing the Peat or Turf altogether ; but sometimes, 
where it is quite deep, by ditching and draining it, and 
then cutting and heaping up some six to twelve inches at 
the top, so that it can be thoroughly burned, and the 



PEAT MANUFACTURE. 335 

ashes spread over the entire surface for a soil. This is not 
so deep as could be desired, but the climate is so uniformly 
moist and the skies so rarely unclouded that it suffices to 
insure very tolerable crops thereafter. 

I do not know how the origin of these Bogs is accounted 
for by the learned, but I presume the land they cover was 
originally a dense forest, and that the Peat commenced 
growing as a sort of moss or fungus, carpeting the ground 
and preventing the germination of any more trees. In 
the course of ten or fifteen centuries, the forest trees 
(mainly of Oak or Fir) decayed and fell into the Peat, 
which, dying at the top, continued to grow at the bottom, 
while the perpetual moisture of the climate prevented its 
destruction by fire. Thus the forest gradually disappeared, 
and the Peat alone remained, gaining a foot in depth in 
the course of two or three centuries until it slowly reached 
its present condition. 

Many efforts have been made to render this Peat 
available as a basis of Manufacture and Commerce, but 
iiitherto with little success. The magnificent chemical 
discoveries heralded some two years ago, whereby each 
bog was to be transformed into a mimic California, have 
not endured the rough test of practical experience. There 
is no doubt that Peat contains all the valuable elements 
therein set forth— Carbon, Ammonia. Stearine, Tar, &c, 
but unfortunately it has hitherto cost more to extract them 
than they will sell for in market; so -the high-raised 
expectations of 1849 have been temporarily blasted, like a 
great many predecessors. 

But further chemical investigations have resulted in new 
discoveries, which, it is confidently asserted, render the 
future success of the Peat Charcoal manufacture a matter 
of demonstrable certainty. A company has just been 
organized in London, under commanding auspices, which 
proposes to embark £500,000 directly and £1,000,000 
ultimately in Peat- Works, having secured the exclusive 



336 GLANCES AT EUROPE. 

right of using the newly patented processes of Messrs. 
J. S. Gwynne and J. J. Hays, which are pronounced 
exceedingly important and valuable. By a combination 
of these patented processes, it is calculated that the com- 
pany will be able to manufacture from the inexhaustible 
Bogs of Ireland, 1. Peat Coal, or solidified Peat, of intense 
calorific power, exceedingly cheap, almost as dense as 
Bituminous Coal, while absolutely free from Gases 
injurious to metals as well as from "clinker," and therefore 
especially valuable for Locomotives and for innumerable 
applications in the arts ; 2. Peat Charcoal, thoroughly 
carbonized, of compact and heavy substance, free from 
sulphur, and for which there is an unlimited demand not 
only for fuel but for fertilization ; 3. Peat Tar, of extra- 
ordinary value simply as Tar, an admirable preservative 
of Timber, and readily convertible into Illuminating Gas 
of exceeding brilliancy and power ; 4. Acetate of Lime ; 
and 5, a crude Sulphate of Ammonia, well known as a 
fertilizer of abundant energy. The company is already at 
work, and expect soon to have six working stations in 
different parts of the country, professing its ability to 
manufacture for 14s. per tun, Peat Charcoal readily selling 
in London for 45s., while they expect to realize 5s. worth 
of Tar, Ammonia, &c, with every tun of Charcoal, while 
on Solidified Peat they anticipate still larger profits. 
These may be very greatly reduced by practical experience 
without affecting the vital point, that sagacious and 
scrutinizing capitalists have been found willing to invest 
their money in an enterprise which, if it succeeds at all, 
must secure illimitable employment to Labor in Ireland 
and strongly tend to increase its average reward. 

BEET SUGAR. 

A similar Company, with a like capital, has also been 
formed to prosecute extensively in Ireland the manufacture 



BEET SUGAR. 337 

of Beet Sugar, and this can hardly be deemed an experi- 
ment. That the Sugar Beet grows luxuriously here I can 
personally bear witness ; indeed, I doubt whether there is 
a soil or climate better adapted to it in the world. That 
the Beet grown in Ireland yields a very large proportion 
of Sugar is attested by able chemists ; that the manufacture 
of Beet Sugar is profitable, its firm establishment and 
rapid extension in France, Belgium, &c, abundantly prove. 
The Irish Company have secured the exclusive use of two 
recently patented inventions, whereby they claim to be 
able to produce a third more sugar than has hitherto been 
obtained, and of a quality absolutely undistinguishable 
from the best Cane Sugar. They say they can make it at 
a profit of fully twenty-five per cent, after paying an excise 
of £10 per tun to the Government, working their mills all 
the year (drying their roots for use in months when they 
cannot otherwise be fit for manufacture). Mr. Wm. K. 
Sullivan, Chemist to the Museum of Irish Industry, states 
that the Beet Sugar manufactured in France has increased 
from 51,000 tuns in 1840 to more than 100,000 tuns in 
1850, in defiance of a large increase in the excise levied 
thereon — that the average production of Sugar Beet is in 
Ireland 15 tuns per acre, against less than 11 tuns in 
France and Germany — that each acre of Beets will yield 
4|- tuns (green) of tops or leaves, worth 7s. 6d. per tun for 
feeding cattle, making the clear profit on the cultivation 
of the Beet, at 15s. per tun, over £5 per acre — that there 
is no shadow of difference between the Sugar of the Beet 
and that of the Cane, all the difference popularly supposed 
to exist being caused by the existence of foreign substances 
in one or both — that Irish roots generally, and Beet roots 
especially, contain considerably more Sugar than those 
grown on the Continent — and that Beet Sugar may be 
made in Ireland (without reference to the newly patented 
processes from which the Company expect such great 
advantages) at a very handsome profit. As the soil and 



338 GLANCES AT EUROPE. 

climate of Ireland are at least equal to, and the Labor 
decidedly cheaper than, that employed in the same pursuit 
on the Continent, while Ireland herself, wretched as she 
is, consumes over two thousand tuns of Sugar per annum, 
and Great Britain, some twenty -five thousand tuns — every 
pound of it imported — I can perceive no reasonable basis 
for a doubt that the Beet Culture and Sugar Manufacture 
will speedily be naturalized in Ireland, and that they will 
give employment and better wages at all seasons to many 
thousands of her sons. 

Such are some of the grounds of my hope that the 
deepest wretchedness of this unhappy country has been 
endured — that her depopulation will speedily be arrested, 
and that better days are in store for her iong-suffering 
people. Yet Conquest, Subjugation, Oppression and 
Misgovernment have worn deep furrows in the National 
character, and ages of patient, enlightened and unselfish 
effort will be necessary to eradicate them. Ignorance, 
Indolence, Inefficiency, Superstition and Hatred are still 
fearfully prevalent ; I only hope that causes are beginning 
to operate which will ultimately efface them. If I have 
said less than would seem just of the Political causes of 
Ireland's calamities, it is because I would rather draw 
attention to practical though slow remedies than invoke 
fruitless indignation against the wrongs which have 
rendered them necessary. Peace and Concord are the 
great primary needs of Ireland — Peace between her warring 
Churches — Concord between her rulers and landlords on 
one side and her destitute and desperate Millions on the 
other. I wish the latter had sufficient courage and self- 
trust to demand and enforce emancipation from the 
Political and Social vassalage in which they are held ; to 
demand not merely Tenant-Right but a restitution of the 
broad lands wrested from their ancestors by fire and 
sword — not merely equal rights with Englishmen in 
Church and State, but equal right also to judge whether 



BEET SUGAR. 339 

the existing Union of the two islands is advantageous to 
themselves, and if not, to insist that it be made so or cease 
altogether. But Ireland has suffered too long and too 
deeply for this ; her emancipation is now possible only 
through the education and social elevation of her People. 
This is a slow process, but earnest hearts and united 
minds will render it a sure one. If the Irish but will and 
work for it, the close of this century will find them a 
Nation of Ten Millions, with their Industry as diversified, 
their Labor as efficient, its Recompense as liberal, and 
their general condition as thrifty and comfortable as those 
of any other Nation. Thus circumstanced, they could no 
longer be treated as the appendage of an Empire, the 
heritage of a Crown, the conquest of a selfish and domi- 
neering Race, but must be accounted equals with the 
inhabitants of the Sister Isle in Civil and Religious Rights 
or break the connection without internal discord and 
almost without a struggle. There shall yet be an Ireland 
to which her sons in distant lands may turn their eyes 
with a pride unmingled with sadness ; but alas ! who can 
say how soon ! 



XLIV. 
THE ENGLISH. 

Liverpool, Wednesday, August 6, 1851. 

I do not wholly like these cold and stately English, yet 
I think I am not blind to their many sterling qualities. 
The greatness of England, it is quite confidently asserted, 
is based upon her conquests and plunderings — on her 
immense Commerce and unlimited Foreign Possessions. 
I think otherwise. The English have qualities which 
would have rendered them wealthy and powerful though 
they had been located in the center of Asia instead of on 
the western coast of Europe. I do not say that these 
qualities could have been developed in Central Asia, but 
it" they had been, they would have insured to their 
possessors a commanding position. Personally, the 
English do not attract nor shine ; but collectively they are 
a race to make their mark on the destinies of mankind. 

In the first place, they are eminently industrious. I 
have seen no country in which the proportion of idlers is 
smaller. I think American labor is more efficient, day to 
day or hour to hour, than British ; but we have the larger 
proportion of non-producers — petty clerks in the small 
towns, men who live by their wits, loungers about bar- 
rooms, &c. There is here a small class of wealthy idlers 
(not. embracing nearly all the wealthy, nor of the Aristo- 
cracy, by any means), and a more numerous class of idle 
paupers or criminals ; but Work is the general rule, and 
the idlers constitute but a small proportion of the whole 



THE ENGLISH. 341 

population. Great Britain is full of wealth, not entirely 
but mainly because her people are constantly producing. 
All that she has plundered in a century does not equal the 
new wealth produced by her people every year. 

The English are eminently devotees of Method and 
Economy. I never saw the rule, " A place for everything., 
and everything in its place," so well observed as here. 
The reckless and the prodigal are found here as every- 
where else, but they are marked exceptions. Nine-tenths 
of those who have a competence know what income they 
have, and are careful not to spend more. A Duchess will 
say to a mere acquaintance, " I cannot afford " a proposed 
outlay — an avowal rarely and reluctantly made by an 
American, even in moderate circumstances. She means 
simply that other demands upon her income are such as to 
forbid the contemplated expenditure, though she could of 
course afford this if she did not deem those of prior conse- 
quence. No Englishman is ashamed to be economical, 
nor to have it known that he is so. Whether his annual 
expenditure be fifty pounds or fifty thousand, he tries to 
get his money's worth. I have been admonished and 
instructed by the systematic economy which is practiced 
even in great houses. You never see a lighted candle set 
down carelessly and left to burn an hour or two to no 
purpose, as is so common with us ; if you leave one 
burning, some one speedily comes and quietly extinguishes 
the flame. Said a friend : " You never see any paper in 
the streets here as you do in New- York [swept out of the 
stores, &c] the English throw nothing away." We spj k 
of the vast parks and lawns of the Aristocracy as so much 
land taken out of use and devoted to mere ostentation ; 
but all that land is growing timber or furnishing pas- 
turage — often both. The owner gratifies his taste or his 
pride by reserving it from cultivation, but he does not 
forget the main chance. So of his Fisheries and even 
Game-Preserves. Of course, there are noblemen who 



342 GLANCES AT EUROPE. 

would scorn to sell their Venison or Partridges ; but Game 
is abundant in the hotels and refectories — too much so for 
half of it to have been obtained by poaching. Few whose 
estates might yield them ten thousand a year are content 
with nine thousand. 

The English are eminently a practical people. They 
have a living faith in the potency of the Horse-Guards, 
and in the maxim that " Safe bind is sure find." They 
have a sincere affection for roast beef. They are quite 
sure " the mob "' will do no harm if it is vigilantly watched 
and thoroughly overawed. Their obstreperous loyalty 
might seem inconsistent with this unideal character, but it 
is only seeming. When the portly and well-to-do Briton 
vociferates " God save the Queen !" with intense enthusi- 
asm, he means " God save my estates, my rents, my 
shares, my consols, my expectations." The fervor of an 
Englishman's loyalty is usually in a direct ratio with the 
extent of his material possessions. The poor like the 
Queen personally, and like to gaze at royal pageantry ; 
but they are not fanatically loyal. One who has seen 
Gen. Jackson or Harry Clay publicly enter New- York or 
any other city finds it hard to realize that the acclamations 
accorded on like occasions to Queen Victoria can really 
be deemed enthusiastic. 

Gravity is a prominent feature of the English character. 
A hundred Englishmen of any class, forgathered for any 
purpose of conference or recreation, will have less merri- 
ment in the course of their sitting than a score of French- 
men or Americans would have in a similar time. Hence 
it is generally remarked that the English of almost any 
class show to least advantage when attempting to enjoy 
themselves. They are as awkward at a frolic as a bear at 
a dance. Their manner of expressing themselves is literal 
and prosaic ; the American tendency to hyperbole and 
exaggeration grates harshly on their ears. They can only 
account for it by a presumption of ill breeding on the part 



THE ENGLISH. 343 

of the utterer. Forward lads and " last " people are scarce 
and uncurrent here. A Western " screamer," eager to 
fight or drink, to run horses or shoot for a wager, and 
boasting that he had " the prettiest sister, the likeliest wife 
and the ugliest dog in all Kentuck," would be no where 
else so out of place and incomprehensible as in this country, 
no matter in what circle of society. 

The Women of England, of whatever rank, studiously 
avoid peculiarities of dress or manner and repress 
idiosyncrasies of character. No where else that I have 
ever been could so keen an observer as Pope have written : 

" Nothing so true as what you once let fall ; 
Most women have no character at all." 

Each essays to think, appear and speak as nearly accord- 
ing to the orthodox standard of Womanhood as possible. 
Hardly one who has any reputation to save could tolerate 
the idea of attending a Woman's Rights Convention or 
appearing in a Bloomer any more than that of standing on 
her head in the Haymarket or walking a tight-rope across 
the pit of Drury Lane. So far as I can judge, the ideas 
which underlie the Woman's Rights movement are not 
merely repugnant but utterly inconceivable to the great 
mass of English women, the last Westminster Review to 
the contrary notwithstanding. 

I do not judge whether they are better or worse for this. 
Their conversation is certainly tamer and less piquant 
than that of the American or the French ladies. I think 
it evinces a less profound and varied culture than that of 
their German sisters ; but none will deny them the 
possession of sterling and amiable qualities. Their physi- 
cal development is unsurpassed, and for good reasons — their 
climate is mild and they take more exercise than our 
women do. Their fullness of bust is a topic of general 
admiration among the foreigners now so plentiful in 
England, and their complexions are marvelously fair and 



344 GLANCES AT EUROPE. 

delicate. Except by a very few in Ireland, I have not 
seen them equaled. And, on the whole, I do not know 
that there are better mothers than the English, especially 
of the middle classes. 

I did not find the Aristocracy so remarkable for physical 
perfection and beauty as I had been taught to expect. 
Some of them are large, well formed and vigorous ; but I 
think the caste is not noticeably so. Among the ladies of 
"gentle blood," however, there is more of the asserted 
aristocratic symmetry and beauty than among the men. 

The general stiffness of English manners has often been 
noted. Not that a gentleman is aught but a gentleman 
anywhere, but courtesy is certainly not the Englishman's 
best point. No where else will a perplexed stranger 
inquiring his way receive more surly answers or oftener 
be refused any answer at all than in London. Even the 
policeman who is paid to direct you, replies to your inquiry 
with the shortest and gruffest monosyllable that will do. 

Awkwardness of manner pervades all classes ; the most 
thoroughly natural, modest and easy mannered man I met 
was a Duke, whose ancestors had been dukes for many 
generations ; but some of the most elaborately ill bred men 
I met also inherited titles of nobility. And, while I have 
been thrown into the company of Englishmen of all ranks 
who were cordial, kind, and every way models of good 
breeding, I have also met here more constitutionally 
arrogant and unbearable persons than had crossed my 
path in all my previous experience. These, too, are found 
in all ranks ; I think the Military service exhibits some of 
the worst specimens. But Bull in authority anywhere is 
apt to exhibit his horns to those whom he suspects of being 
nobodies. Elevation is unpropitious to the display of his 
more amiable qualities. 

I have elsewhere spoken of the indifferent figure made 
by most Englishmen at public speaking. Many of them 



THE ENGLISH. 345 

say good things ; hardly one delivers them aptly or grace- 
fully. Any Frenchman having Lord Granville's brains 
would make a great deal more out of them in a speech. I 
attribute this National defect to two causes ; first, the 
habitually prosaic level of British thought and conversa- 
tion ; next, the intense pride which is also a National 
characteristic. John is called out at a festive gathering, 
and springs to his feet really intending to be clever. But 
the next moment the thought strikes him — " This is beneath 
my dignity, after all. Why should I subject myself to 
miscellaneous criticism ? Why put myself on the verdict 
of this crowd ? Does it become a gentleman of my stand- 
ing to fish for their plaudits ? What will success amount 
to, if attained ?" Or else he criticises his own thoughts and 
meditated forms of expression, pronounces them tame, trite 
or feeble, and recoils from their enunciation as unworthy 
of his abilities, position and reputation. The result is the 
same in either case — he hesitates, blunders, chokes, and 
finally stammers out a few sentences and subsides into his 
seat, sweating at every pore, red-faced with chagrin, vexed 
with himself and every body else on account of his failure, 
which might not have occurred, and certainly would not 
have been so palpable, had his self-consciousness been less 
diseased and extravagant. 

I have said that the British are not in manner a winning 
people. Their self-conceit is the principal reason. They 
have solid and excellent qualities, but their self-complacency 
is exorbitant and unparalleled. The majority are not con- 
tent with esteeming Marlborough and Wellington the 
greatest Generals and Nelson the first Admiral the world 
ever saw, but claim alike supremacy for their countrymen 
in every field of human effort. They deem Machinery and 
Manufactures, Railroads and Steamboats, essentially British 
products. They regard Morality and Philanthropy as in 
effect peculiar to " the fast anchored isle/' and Liberty as 



346 GLANCES AT EUROPE. 

an idea uncomprehended, certainly unrealized, any where 
else. They are horror-stricken at the toleration of Slavery 
in the United States, in seeming ignorance that our Con- 
gress has no power to abolish it and that their Parliament, 
which had ample power, refused to exercise it through 
generations down to the last quarter of a century. They 
cannot even consent to go to Heaven on a road common 
to other nations, but must seek admission through a private 
gate of their own, stoutly maintaining that their local 
Church is the very one founded by the Apostles, and that 
all others are more or less apostate and schismatic. Other 
Nations have their weak points — the French, Glory ; the 
Spaniards, Orthodoxy ; the Yankees/ Rapacity ; but Bull 
plunders India and murders Ireland, yet deems himself the 
mirror of Beneficence and feeds his self-righteousness by 
resolving not to fellowship slaveholders of a different fashion 
from himself; he is perpetually fighting and extending his 
possessions all over the globe, yet wondering that French 
and Russian ambition will keep the world always in hot 
water Our Yankee self-conceit and self-laudation are 
immoderate ; but nobody else is so perfect on all points — 
himself being the judge — as Bull. 

There is one other aspect of the British character which 
impressed me unfavorably. Everything is conducted here 
with a sharp eye to business. For example, the manufac- 
turing and trafficking classes are just now enamored of 
Free Trade — that is, freedom to buy raw staples and sell 
their fabrics all over the world — from which they expect 
all manner of National and individual benefits. In conse- 
quence, these classes seize every opportunity, however 
unsuitable, to commend that policy to the strangers now 
among them as dictated by wisdom, philanthropy and 
beneficence, and to stigmatize its opposite as impelled by 
narrow-minded selfishness and only upheld by prejudice 
and ignorance. The French widow who appended to the 



THE ENGLISH. 347 

high-wrought eulogium engraved on her husband's tomb- 
stone that "His disconsolate widow still keeps the shop 
No 16 Rue St. Denis," had not a keener eye to business 
than these apostles of the Economic faith. No considera- 
tion of time or place is regarded ; in festive meetings, peace 
conventions, or gatherings of any kind, where men of 
various lands and views are notoriously congregated, and 
where no reply could be made without disturbing the har- 
mony and distracting the attention of the assemblage, the 
disciples of Cobden are sure to interlard their harangues 
with advice to foreigners substantially thus — " N. B. Pro- 
tection is a great humbug and great waste. Better abolish 
your tariffs, stop your factories and buy at our shops. 
We're the boys to give you thirteen pence for every 
shilling." I cannot say how this affected others, but to 
me it seemed hardly more ill-mannered than impolitic. 

Yet the better qualities in the English character 
decidedly preponderate. Naturally, this people love 
justice, manly dealing, fair play ; and though I think the 
shop- keeping attitude is unfavorable to this tendency, it 
has not effaced it. The English have too much pride to 
be tricky or shabby, even in the essentially corrupting 
relation of buyer and seller. And the Englishman who 
may be repulsive in his out-of-door intercourse or spirally 
inclined in his dealings, is generally tender and truthful in 
his home. There only is he seen to the best advantage. 
When the day's work is over and the welcome shelter of 
his domestic roof is attained, he husks off his formality 
with his great-coat and appears to his family and his 
friends in a character unknown to the outer world. The 
quiet comfort and heartfelt warmth of an English fireside 
must be felt to be appreciated. These Britons, like our 
own people, are by nature not demonstrative ; they do not 
greet their wives before strangers with a kiss, on returning 
from the day's business, as a Frenchman may do ; and if 



348 GLANCES AT EUROPE. 

very glad to see you on meeting, they are not likely to say 
so in words ; but they cherish warm emotions under a hard 
crust of reserve and shyness, and lavish all their wealth of 
affection on the little band collected within the magic 
circle of Home. Said an American who had spent two 
years as a public lecturer throughout Great Britain : " Cir- 
cumstances have introduced me favorably to the intimacy 
and regard of many English families, and I can scarcely 
recollect one which was not in its own sphere, a model 
household." My own opportunities have been very 
limited, yet so far as they go they tend to maintain the 
justice of this remark. There are of course exceptions, 
but they would be more abundant elsewhere. And I 
regard the almost insuperable obstacles here interposed to 
the granting of Divorces, no matter on what grounds, as 
one cause of the general harmony and happiness of 
English homes. 



But I must not linger. The order to embark is given ; 
our good ship Baltic is ready ; another hour and I shall 
have left England and this Continent, probably for ever. 
With a fervent good-bye to the friends I leave on this side 
of the Atlantic, I turn my steps gladly and proudly toward 
my own loved Western home — toward the land wherein 
Man enjoys larger opportunities than elsewhere to develop 
the better and the worse aspects of his nature, and where 
Evil and Good have a freer course, a wider arena for their 
inevitable struggles, than is allowed them among the heavy 
fetters and cast-iron forms of this rigid and wrinkled Old 
World. Doubtless, those struggles will long be arduous 
and trying : doubtless, the dictates of Duty will there often 
bear sternly away from the halcyon bowers of Popularity ; 
doubtless, he who would be singly and wholly right must 






THE ENGLISH. 349 

there encounter ordeals as severe as those which here trv 
the souls of the would-be champions of Progress and 
Liberty. But Political Freedom, such as white men enjoy 
in the United States, and the mass do not enjoy in Europe, 
not even in Britain, is a basis for confident and well- 
grounded hope ; the running stream, though turbid, tends 
ever to self-purification ; the obstructed, stagnant pool 
grows daily more dank and loathsome. Beliievng most 
firmly in the ultimate and perfect triumph of Good over 
Evil, I rejoice in the existence and diffusion of that 
Liberty which, while it intensifies the contest, accelerates 
the consummation. Neither blind to her errors nor a 
pander to her vices, I rejoice to feel that every hour 
henceforth till J see her shores must lessen the distance 
which divides me from my country, whose advantages and 
blessings this four months' absence has taught me to 
appreciate more clearly and to prize more deeply than 
before. With a glow of unwonted rapture I see our 
stately vessel's prow turned toward the setting sun, and 
strive to realize that only some ten days separate me from 
those I know and love best on earth. Hark ! the last gun 
announces that the mail-boat has left us, and that we are 
fairly afloat on our ocean journey : the shores of Europe 
recede from our vision ; the watery waste is all around 
us ; and now, with God above and Death below, our 
gallant bark and her clustered company together brave the 
dangers of the mighty deep. May Infinite Mercy watch 
over our onward path and bring us safely to our several 
homes ; for to die away from home and kindred seems one 
of the saddest calamities that could befall me. This mortal 
tenement would rest uneasily in an ocean shroud ; this 
spirit reluctantly resign that, tenement to the chill and 
pitiless brine ; these eyes close regretfully on the stranger 
skies and bleak inhospitality of the sullen and stormy main. 
No ! let me see once more the scenes so well remembered 

16 



350 GLANCES AT EUROPE. 

and beloved ; let me grasp, if but once again, the hand of 
Friendship and hear the thrilling accents of proved Affec- 
tion, and when sooner or later the hour of mortal agony 
shall come, let my last gaze be fixed on eyes that will not 
forget me when I am gone, and let my ashes repose in that 
congenial soil which, however I may there be esteemed or 
hated, is still 

" My own green land forever I" 



THE END. 



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